US Brig Syren by niwotwill - Model Shipways - scale 1:64 - 2nd wooden kit build & 1st build log

[niwotwill]

I had been procrastinating about the foot ropes so after promising myself that I'd do them today I did. It was more work than I had expected with the lines seized to the tips of the spars amongst the rigging. Deciding to tie the foot knots prior to hanging the foot ropes was the correct decision. Tied half hitches at 3/8" intervals seemed to be correct as this would be 24" at full scale. I had previously made a mixture of 50/50 white glue and water to soak the line and then hung it up with an alligator clip to weigh it down hanging straight.

A piece of masking tape was marked at 3/8" intervals and the knots tied.

 

 

rigged the after lines first and weighted the with alligator clips. Just like hang up the laundry.

 

Completed foot ropes

 

Tomorrow I set the droop getting rid to the kinks. So that complete chapter 16 and now on the chapter 17 in earnest.

 

 

[niwotwill]

Lower masts completed today. Took the time to make 5mm cleats out of pear wood I had laying around. The process was to be a mass production method so I drilled blind holes at .05 centers for copper support wire. 

 

and then used the table saw to cut the piece to width along with controlled depth slices making the ears. Using a razor saw and mitre sliced off .05 tee shaped cleats. Some hand sanding was done prior to slicing. With each cleat I sanded the corners and edges with a radius along with a slight sanded radius on the top of the cleat. On the masts holes were drilled for the copper wire supporting the cleats. Then it was a matter of putting the cut wire in the blind holes on the bottom of the cleats and glueing the cleat to the mast. The boom rest was also pear wood and straight forward.

 

 

 

[Overworked724]

Hi Will.  Not quite clear on the steps you took to make your cleats.  Could you repost with a few more pics?  The pic of the linear holes you made in your pear sheet  isn't enough for me to grasp your process and I'm very curious!

[niwotwill]

Patrick thanks for the likes and interest. I went out and cut another slice of tee ready for slicing like bread. Hope the photos help pm if you further info.

Setting the depth of cut

 

Set the width of the middle leg

 

Second cut to make the leg length

 

Raise blade to cut off piece

 

Cut piece

 

Finished piece to required size

 

Sanding inner angle

 

Secured in vise. Take a triangle file and score a line for the half round file to follow.

 

Radiused top

 

Razor saw and mitre set to the width you want

 

Finished piece ready for sanding cleanup to what ever level you'd like

 

It only took me several hours to make 70 cleats that are ready to finish sanding.

 

Hope this isn't too much information

 

[Overworked724]

Brilliant!!!!  

[niwotwill]

Started lower mast tops. Everything was very straight forward as per the monograph with the exception of working with 1/32" thick basswood. Fitting the crosstrees to the masts went as described and I couldn't believe that the crosstrees sled down the mast square as planned. Amazing, I know I'm not this good. Planking went easy with no problems. The support ring was tricky getting the laser burn off without breaking but got it glued on and sanded to fit.

 

I made copies of the plans and used the copy as a template locating where to mark for the drill holes doing the deadeye holes around the perimeter.

 

 

I then cut the center from the supporting rim and marked the holes in the center.

 

Looking at the battens left me wondering how to get the pattern correct and then I thought of the templates. I taped the template in place and cut out where the first batten was to be placed. Followed around the pattern without any worry and fiddles. Set the base for the rear rail and drill all the holes.

 

I don't like pinning into 1/16" square basswood so I decided I drill a hole and use a square file to make a 1/16" square hole for the rail stanchions. On the base I files a small decorative feature as done in the monograph pictures.

Got two hole done when it was time to come in for the day.

 

 

 

 

planking and holes marked

 

Paint tomorrow

 

 

 

 

[niwotwill]

Completed the fore mast top now waiting for deadeyes and block to dry after staining. With the rear railing I made a few modifications that added to look and defiantly the strength. As before added square holes for 1/16" sq rod to slip into and at the top of the rail made changes to the design. I used the 1/32" strip with square hole in alignment with the holes in the base for stanchions. To make blind holes in the top I used a 5/32" by 5/64" strip to sit atop the lower piece thus creating the blind holes. The wider strip adds a little interest to rail with the offset.

 

two square holes in base

 

Making square hole in 1/32" top to create the blind holes

 

Added the top piece creating the blind holes. All the parts dry fit to ensure fit to foremast top.

 

View of the top two pieces showing the trim detail

 

Finished ready for paint

 

View of bottom showing the square stanchions in the base.

 

Painted

 

This has been a fun little project that made it special to me with my little touches.

 

 

[Overworked724]

Nice clean result, Will!

[JesseLee]

Very nice!

[niwotwill]

Thanks Patrick and Jesse and the likes from others.

Yesterday I got my shipment from Syren Model with all the blocks, deadeyes and open hearts. I need to start making the open hearts as they come as a kit. In a post by Chuck he stains his blocks with Old Master Gel stain in fruitwood and taking his lead I stained the blocks and deadeyes for the mast tops.

 

 

Here is a closeup of two deadeyes on the left stained and on the right as received. I stained them last night and left to dry.

 

I can now finish the mast tops and move on the upper masts.

 

[niwotwill]

Took a week off to work on another ship but back at it now.

I made the .012 dia rope for the topmast blocks and deadeyes.  I used Chucks formula for rope making and with Mara 100 in a 1X3 wound tightly resulted in a rope mearsuring .012. ThoughtI put that in to tell everyone his formula works.

Completed the format top blocks and deadeyes today and the main topmast tomorrow. The blocks were a real challenge keeping the wrapping to about 3/32" on all 8. Tying the blocks with the no way to hold required a new method. It took more rope than I had accounted for so I'll have to make more. What I did was to make the rope almost twice the length required so I could hole the topmast in Panvise and grip the open ends in another Panvise (can't have to many vise). I pulled the rope taught with the lines being 1/16" parallel. With the block held between the parallel lines I could then put a small drop of CA on the line at the junction with block. This fixed the block and allow tying the lines to the block as in the monograph.

Spent quite some time learning what topmast deadeye plates.  Actually there is too much information on the internet and sometimes it just muddies the water. It seemed that iron rings (plates) were lashed to the line from the deadeye and then a futtock was either lashed or hooked to the plate/ring. So the method in the monograph is as correct as I could find in my short search.

 

 

 

[niwotwill]

Completed the main and fore lower masts with all the rigging. After finishing the mast tops I rigged the main preventer collar using a open heart from Syrenmodelship. To rig the collar I first used .015 rope doubled and realized the rope amount was too much for the open heart. Doing it again with .012 rope made all the difference in proportional looks. Glued everything together so the lower masts are ready for stepping. With all that done started the fore upper mast. The practicum says to use 3/16" and make square at the base to shave into an octagon. The drawing scales with a 3/16" square to start with before make the octagonal sections but how do you make a 3/16" square out of a 3/16" dowel? The kit was missing a 3/16" dowel but did have a 1/4" so that is what I used. Used the 7/10 scale to mark off the octagonal and square sections. Planned off the 3/16" square and then the 7/10 to shave off the edges for the octagonal sections. I finish up the first mast tomorrow.

 

Mast after first cuts ready to finish

 

Masts ready to be stepped

 

Fore lower mast with collar

 

I didn't like the pictures of the collar in the practicum so I checked Lee's and decided to use a similar method where I lashed the the ends around the mast and lashed between the mast and close to the heart. That give it more security for rigging.

 

[niwotwill]

In my last post I forgot to detail how the deadeyes were mounted on the topmasts. First I cut a 5" length of line doubling it to form a loop around a #57 drill bit. Lashed the end close to the loop and added a drop of CA. When hardened removed the loop, now a deadeye plate, from the bit and added another drop of CA.

ready for lashing

 

Finished deadeye plate

 

You can paint it black as the practicum recommends or spray with flat clear Krylon. Next feed the open ends through the hole from the bottom and after splitting the leads add a drop of glue. I use LePage white glue which dries a translucent white color.

 

 

Then place the deadeye letting it set before tying.

 

When set simply tie a half-hitch around the deadeye and add a drop of CA. Use the thin CA so it soaks into the line and around the deadeye.

 

When complete just snip of the loose ends and wait for the glue to dry clear.

 

 

You can see the glue dried nearly invisible. On another post, I forget which, the user recommended these spring scissors which I now use and love. These are used by the fly tying hobbyists. They come in straight or curved tips.

 

 

 

 

[niwotwill]

Chapter 17 is DONE. Making the masts and poles was a challenge to say the least. I made 5 fore top gallant poles before getting one that looked correct and didn't break. The masts are in place but not glued due to the holes make them very secure and stable. Early on I put blocks between the bulkheads along the frame for strength and giving planking something to grip. Since I had no way to accurately drill 5/16" holes a friend, a retired tool maker, had a large mill and volunteered to drill the for me. Using the plans he made a jig to hole the skeleton and drill the holes at the correct angle on the centerline. Now I place the masts 1" deep into these holes getting the required stability. Everything else was a matter of being very careful not to break something using judicial clamping during the tying of blocks.

 

 

Top mast lift  blocks

 

Top mast jeer blocks, and sling

 

Lift and stay blocks on top poles

 

Completed ready for standing rigging

 

I've enjoyed this step especially using James Lees book about the rigging. I'll continue to use the monograph, Lees, and the TFFM vol 4 to get the rigging accurate as possible given my experience.

 

Thanks for all the likes

 

[abelson]

On 9/6/2021 at 11:27 AM, niwotwill said:

In my last post I forgot to detail how the deadeyes were mounted on the topmasts. First I cut a 5" length of line doubling it to form a loop around a #57 drill bit. Lashed the end close to the loop and added a drop of CA. When hardened removed the loop, now a deadeye plate, from the bit and added another drop of CA.

ready for lashing

 

Finished deadeye plate

 

You can paint it black as the practicum recommends or spray with flat clear Krylon. Next feed the open ends through the hole from the bottom and after splitting the leads add a drop of glue. I use LePage white glue which dries a translucent white color.

 

 

Then place the deadeye letting it set before tying.

 

When set simply tie a half-hitch around the deadeye and add a drop of CA. Use the thin CA so it soaks into the line and around the deadeye.

 

When complete just snip of the loose ends and wait for the glue to dry clear.

 

 

You can see the glue dried nearly invisible. On another post, I forget which, the user recommended these spring scissors which I now use and love. These are used by the fly tying hobbyists. They come in straight or curved tips.

 

 

 

 

Yeah, I use them also - they give a niece close cut. A good alternative to nail clippers. Ship is looking good!

[abelson]

FYI, It looks like your main topgallant mast is missing a single block for the topgallant bunt line. The plan of the fore and main topgallant mast/pole on Sheet 5 doesn’t show all of the blocks. I discovered there are three (3) 3/32” single bocks on the main topgallant mast (2 for the lifts and 1 for the topgallant bunt line). 

[niwotwill]

Thank you Steven great catch and very helpful. I'll add the block before going any further. 

[niwotwill]

A lot of work but not much to show. Completed the chain plates and attachment to the channels. I kind of followed the instructions making the chainplates with the exception of soldering the joints rather than glue.

 

First I made the deadeye strop using a time trued method of trail and error using jewelers ring pliers.

 

Several tries and a 5mm diameter ring fit on the 3.5mm deadeye and when squeezed it created a loop with the correct amount between the deadeye and loop for the middle link. The 2.5mm deadeye was the same except a 4mm ring was needed. 

The middle link, eyebolt link, toe link, and preventer link were formed as described in the monograph

forming the link

 

squeezing the link

 

finished link ready for soldering

 

I was fortunate enough to use my soldering mat as the holes were the correct spacing of the different links. The strop links and toe links were soldered prior to assembly. To complete the chain plate the middle link was soldered after capturing the strop and toe links. Using silver solder allows the soldering of close proximity to previous joints due the solder that melts at different temperatures. High heat for the links and low heat for the joining middle link.

With the links assembled I squeezed the deadeye in position

 

The black is liver of sulfur residue that comes off after washing.

All my work

 

And like I said a lot of work not much to show

 

On to rigging

 

 

 

[allanyed]

Nice work Will, 

Have you tried making the chains and putting them in place with the deadeyes, then, blacken them with watered down LoS.   Quick rinse with water afterwards and no residue flaking off.   If you look at Ed Tosti's Naiad log build and/or the Young America build log, he goes into this method in some good detail.  

Allan

[niwotwill]

Thanks for all the likes and thanks to Allan for the LoS suggestion. I read Eds Naiad and Young America and tried the method on some scrap wood with great results. Don't know why I forgot about Ed Tosti's method but will definitely use it in the future.

 

Got the main shrouds on along with the main stay and main preventer all lashed in with closed hearts and lanyards. I left the shrouds loose and will tighten them when all the shrouds, stays, and preventers are installed. But a note to self: install the shrouds before the mast is assembled. It will be a lot easier and neater if the shroud pairs are seized and then slipped into place as is suggested in David Antscherls TFFM books vol IV 15.22 & 15.23 pages 48  through 50.

 

Couple of photos

[niwotwill]

Lower shrouds, forestay and fore preventer completed. Once the forestay and fore preventer were tightened the fore shrouds were tightened into alignment. The same with the main mast. Next the sheer poles and futtock staves were installed. I glue tacked the poles and staves prior to lashing them to the shrouds this way making them stable to lash. The mouse were made from a 1/8" birch rod and turned on the lathe after drilling the appropriate diameter hole. Then the rod was shaped to form the mouse using swiss files. The stays and preventers were served to the length and then an eye was formed to capture the mouse and then seized to a closed heart. The hearts were pulled tight with lanyards to create the necessary adjustment.

 

fore shrouds with the lanyards loose until the stay and preventer are tight

 

forestay and preventer stay ready to be tightened

 

stays and preventer closeup but still not tightened

 

everything snugged up

 

closeup of sheer pole lashing (some much work and hardly noticeable from distance)

 

Next the futtock shrouds and catharpins and of course the ratlines.

 

[abelson]

Good idea on leaving the lanyards loose until the stay and preventer are tight. Looking good. BTY, I think you need to add another eyebolt abaft of the fore mast.

[niwotwill]

Great catch Steven. I had used an eyebolt to keep the loose lanyard out of the way and somehow snagged the line and couldn't fine where I pulled the eyebolt from. It must have been loose in the deck. Great catch now I'll check all the eyebolts before going forward.

 

Regards

Will

[WalrusGuy]

Looking good!! 

[Overworked724]

Looking sweet, Will!  Nice work on the chains.  Do you use a solder iron or a torch?

[niwotwill]

patrick

Sorry for the late response. I use hard silver solder on everything but when its time to solder it all together I use the soft silver solder so the hard does not melt using a butane torch.  Hope this helps.

 

Regards

Will

[niwotwill]

I started the Syren 2 years ago and lost my way. Inbetween I've finished several small boats and started others now I realize that I can't work on 2 models concurrently and have put the other models on hold to finish Syren. I finished up with the lashing to sheer poles and now on to the futtock shrouds and catharpins.

 

More to come

Regards

Will

[niwotwill]

Just a quick update. Rather than work on Syren I decided to finish all the small boats I'd started. Then I came down with covid and its been a long recovery, but not I back to Syren.

 

Will

[niwotwill]

Back in the shop working on Syren. A lot of work/time to complete the snugging up the lower shrouds. Next was the futtock staves a simple but detail necessity. I a strip of ebony left from a previous build to make the futtock staves and then lashed them to the lower shrouds. The futtock shrouds were a simple matter of the the lines through the eyes below the upper mast deadeyes to the staves. Had to take a day making more rope when I think I have enough rope of a size I seem to need more. Reading all the logs along with several books I decided to take an easier way to make my catharpins. I served i" on two pieces of line to create the center one piece. I the draped the lines over the staves using clips on each of the four pieces of rope. This way I was able to center the served 1" section in the center between the staves. That done I could seize each line without pulling the center out of alignment.

With all that done it is as another poster said "it so crowed in here you can't see the individual knots". I've decided to complete the upper shrouds and fore & back stays and do the ratlines at the same time. 

 

Regards

Will

[abelson]

Your ship is looking very nice. Keep up the excellent work.