18th Century Longboat by Maury - FINISHED - Model Shipways

[Maury S]

While I'm waiting on the Admiraly Models Echo Section instructions, I have started on Chuck's kit as a small diversion.  I'm using the kit provided bass wood for the Keel, false keel and bulkheads (to be called frames after the center sections are removed).  I am using box wood (from Jeff at Hobbymill) for the planking, etc. I am looking at all the other Longboat logs for tips and techniques. Plenty of help there!  A simple building board was set  up with runners to keep everything lined up.

I lightly sanded the notches on the keel and bulkheads but left the laser burn on the outside of the bulkheads to aid in fairing.  Bulkheads were stabilized with spacers between.  They will disappear when the centers are cut out.  The second picture shows some of the squaring techniques to keep the bulkheads square and plumb on the building board.  Once done, the fairing started using 220 grit on a sanding stick, followed by 320 grit.  When the laser burn is gone, the bulkheads are fair.  The transom is installed but not shown.

I'm going to spile the planks (no edge bending) so several trial attempts with card stock are underway.

Maury

[Chuck]

Good start...but the spacer blocks you are using look very thick.  Those may be tough to remove so you can snap the bulkhead centers free.

 

Chuck

[Maury S]

Thanks Chuck,

I'll put some isopropyl alcohol on them before I try that.

Maury

[Chuck]

By the way....shall I move this to the group build forum....I almost couldnt find it again after first looking there.

 

Chuck

[Maury S]

Chuck, I was wondering where it went...

I spiled the top (box wood) strakes, cooked them in the microwave (in a paper towel soaked with water), bent the fore ends around a bottle cap, dried them and installed them along the bulkheads.  PROBLEM.  I guess the pressure of me holding the stbd strake in place while the CA dried twisted the whlole boat a bit...discovered it after the port strake was installed.  I removed both strakes and built some supports to keep the frame stable (no twist) on the building board and carefully re-installed both planks 3 - 4 frames on a side worling back from the stem.  Everything came out fine this time.

Chuck, I was going to try your clear-tape method to layout the planks and could not find it at the local art / hobby store nor on the internet.  Do you recall the manufacturer (?Scotch?) and where you bought it?

Maury

 

[Chuck]

I started using this stuff.  Works great.

 

http://www.browncor.com/product/B41838.htm?utm_source=googleps&utm_medium=GPS&utm_campaign=GMerchants

 

 

Chuck

[Maury S]

Plain old packing tape?  I tried writing on the stuff I have here and neither pencil nor ink takes.  Is that a "special" tape?

Maury

[Chuck]

No not at all...I rub the edge of a sharpened pencil down the edge of the plank and it works fine.  You could even use a fine sharpie if you are careful.

 

Chuck

[Chuck Seiler]

Maury,

 

    Welcome to the build!!!!  I am surprised you said you spiled the top planks.  IIRC the top (sheer) plank goes in as is-unspiled.  I do not recall doing anything special for plank 2 either.

[Maury S]

Chuck (S), There is an obvious shape in the plank (see all the friezes) so I spiled the piece (no edge bending for me).  I actually started with one of the friezes as a rough shape copied onto card stock.  Remember, I'm using Box wood which wouldn't edge-bend like the bass that MS provides.

Maury

[tlevine]

Having spiled all of the planks I can attest to the fact that the sheer strake is not a consistent width for its entire length.  Maury, I would suggest you put in the garboard strake next and plank from bottom to top.  That way you won't have an infill strake to deal with and there will be less potential for racking the hull.

[Chuck Seiler]

I used boxwood as well. I did not have any issues with the sheer strake, although I may have had to slightly spile the one below. However, given the problems I had with the planking in general, I will defer to you ad Toni.

[Chuck Seiler]

I was mistaken. I used Pau Marfin, not Boxwood. It edge bends easier.

[Maury S]

Thanks Toni, that is the plan (garboard up from here-on.) Typical Garboard shape in first photo.  It gets a wet cooking in the microwave for 2 minutes, then held in place to dry (with the help of a blow drier).  Then glued down.

Maury

[Maury S]

Thanks for the comments.  Every bit helps.  Lining out for the rest of the strakes.  Two bands divided by a thread to see how fair the line is (credit David Antscherl ).  The first attempt at the next strake had me cutting it a bit too thin in one spot...back to the scroll saw with a finer blade. This one has a big twist in it as well and takes care to align properly.  

Maury

 

[Chuck Seiler]

I had a lot of trouble with the strake or two north of the garboard strake. In retrospect, edge bending like Chuck and BobF did would have helped significantly. I loop forward to see your progress.

[tlevine]

I divided my hull into eleven strakes after the garboard was installed.  The first four strakes were tough.  Once you get to the tuck under the transom it goes much easier.  What are you using for glue?  You mentioned CA earlier but also talked about isopropanol for debonding.  I went back and looked at my hull and the black thread appears to rise up too high at the bow, especially with the sheer plank not spiled.  Maybe it is just how the photo was taken but if there is problem it is a lot easier to correct before any planks have been cut.

[Maury S]

Thanks Toni, you're correct...the string seems to come up too high at the bow.  I'm going to re-work that before I get farther on.

Maury

[Maury S]

The 3rd strake up is installed.  I've turned the corner at the sternpost / transom so it will be easier from here.  A few gaps near the stern but they will not be visible when it's turned upright.  A camera shot is critical.  The mis-alignment of the strakes at the bow shows up on the bow-on photo.  I need to sand the one on the left.

Maury

[tlevine]

The camera is a fantastic tool to keep in our armamentarium.  It shows us mistakes that we don't see with the eye either because of fatigue, angle of view or simply wishful thinking.  It has prevented me from making a lot of mistakes. 

[Maury S]

Adjusting 3rd strake.  First picture is how it lays now, vs earlier (2nd picture).  Not quite there, but getting closer.  Funny how I can't see as much difference just by looking at it. 

Maury

[Chuck]

I think it looks very good.

[Maury S]

Thanks Chuck.

[tlevine]

Much nicer.  That slight difference you will be able to make up in the next strake.

[Shazmira]

Looks great...keep going. nice and clean so far!

[st george]

Nice work Maury, I like the way you Adjusted the 3rd strake.

[Chuck Seiler]

Maury,

What changes did you make?

[Maury S]

Chuck S, The third strake did not match up side to side at the stem post.  Still some minor adjustments but it's better now than before.  Errors like that never get better...they just keep growing.

M

[Maury S]

One strake at a time...lots of other committments so progress has been slow.  Fourth strakes installed, spiling the fifth.  I'm using stiff card stock and lining out with a compass. Cut along the line by hand, transfer to a wood plank and cut on the scroll saw.   Match up with 120 grit sanding (this is the stage shown in the photo), then take tick-strip measurements at each frame and mark from the matched edge.  Connect using a ships curve, cut to the line with a chisel and sand to fair.  Three minutes in the microwave (wrapped in a soaking-wet paper towel) gives plenty of flex.  I re-soak the forward part and bend with a hot iron to get a "perfect" fit.  Lots of practice to do it right, but once you do it this way, you'll probably never go back to edge-bending.

Maury

[mtaylor]

Lovely work, Maury.  Thanks for showing how you do it.