Opium Smuggler 1806 by EricWilliamMarshall - FINISHED - Authentic Models - Scale 1:75 - Schooner

[EricWilliamMarshall]

On 3/18/2020 at 6:00 AM, VTHokiEE said:

What solder did you use?

a tin/lead mix - some RadioShack electronics solder; not optimal, but sufficient, or so I thought.   

 

On 3/18/2020 at 6:00 AM, VTHokiEE said:

I assume this is the joint that broke later in the log?

Yup, a tiny bit of twisting popped it.

[EricWilliamMarshall]

On 3/18/2020 at 7:42 AM, ccoyle said:

bowsprit, though, should not be tapered where it fits into the cap

To ask the impossible question: where would I find such information? I realize the kit I'm working with is a simplified version which makes my work lighter, but I realize that a number of details are missing. For example, this is ship without anchors.  If I was to add anchor (or two), I'm not sure where to turn to figure that out. It isn't a do or die question at this point; I see that other kits have more detail and I fine with what is given in this kit. I assume I'll make horrible cringe-worthy mistakes as I learn the craft of model shipbuilding and I rather do that with simpler kits than "waste" a big expensive kit (although I'm sure I'll get to that as well  ). Thanks again for the info! Every little bit helps!

[EricWilliamMarshall]

On 3/18/2020 at 7:58 AM, Chuck said:

Looks good Eric.  That old kit is turning into a lovely model

Chuck, you are too kind! I hoping to work my way up to a Winchelsea in a few years...

[VTHokiEE]

27 minutes ago, EricWilliamMarshall said:

On 3/18/2020 at 6:00 AM, VTHokiEE said:

 

a tin/lead mix - some RadioShack electronics solder; not optimal, but sufficient, or so I thought.   

I use this currently: 

 

https://contenti.com/1-2-oz-silver-solder-paste-syringe

 

there are topics about a lower temp silver solder. I tried something I found in homedepot for plumbing first and it didn’t work for me. 
 

Your build is really looking nice. The paint job is real nice. I wish my lines were as smooth.

[EricWilliamMarshall]

On 3/18/2020 at 8:20 AM, Osmosis said:

She is coming along nicely. Looks like you are having fun with this one.

Thanks Art! Yes, despite some grousing, I'm enjoying the kit! I honestly thought I would never build it. I bought in the mid-Nineties, and was afraid I would screw it up, so I did the obvious thing: I never started. While I didn't screw anything up, there was, um, no progress either.   In my old age, I care less about screwing up stuff - and this website is such a boon to even the mildly curious!! Even with my limited skills, I was able to push a bit and I'm learning a ton. 

[ccoyle]

19 minutes ago, EricWilliamMarshall said:

where would I find such information?

I based my comment primarily on the drawings you showed earlier. But the quest for information on general ship building practices is one reason why ship modelers accumulate lots of books! Also, as you point out, this is a beginner's model, and some things are simplified -- when you tackle a more advanced project, its plans, materials, and construction will more closely imitate the real thing. 

 

Cheers!

 

[Chuck]

To answer your question about how these masts and bowsprits are put together.   All that info is out there, but these early kits simplified the details way too much.  In fact, the bowsprit on your model is missing a few things that would make the angles and rigging process go a lot smoother.  Too much to mention in a post like this.  But when you come by the shop next time I have many books on the topic and can show you.  You can take borrow them and take a look.

 

For example....if you add this small piece the jiboom would line up better with the bowsprit.    so the distance between both were the same at the arse end of the jibboom.  Do you see that little piece between the two.  Your kit probably doesnt even show it on the plans and I am certain it wasnt mentioned in those 4 pages of instructions.  But you are doing a lovely job with it.   Its just a very outdated kit which was considered a good one at that time.

 

[VTHokiEE]

26 minutes ago, EricWilliamMarshall said:

hoping to work my way up to a Winchelsea in a few years...

Me too!

[EricWilliamMarshall]

4 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said:

The paint job is real nice

My 'secrets' are few:
1) I use 'fresh' blue painters' tape - fresh meaning the adhesive is newish and not extra-tacky/sticky.
2) I press the edge down with the end of my paint brush (non-brush side) or the flat of my fingernail. With some tape, you will see a slight change in color or transparency as the tape makes greater contact with the ship.
3) Sometimes I cut thinner strips, so greater curves can be made. Otherwise the tape will buckle/bend/etc. in weird ways and lose contact with the surface.
4) I use slightly thicker paint than usual when painting the area next to the tape.
5) I brush from tape to wood.  - these last two help minimize bleeding and leaking under the tape.  
6) If spraying, I spray from the same side as the tape - also to minimize bleeding
7) I don't like the Testor's tape and the Tamiya is close to painters' tape so not worth the price difference for me. (To be honest, I have the Tamiya tape and keep 'saving it for something important'  )
8) I use cheap crappy 'craft' paint - I don't think it matters but it might, so I'm mentioning it.
9) While don't usually do it, I love the suggestion of using some clear finish to 'seal' the tape and surface of the ship to reduce bleeding.
10) Nothing says you can't paint over a small mess, or try again or scrap and try again!

[EricWilliamMarshall]

26 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

the quest for information on general ship building practices is one reason why ship modelers accumulate lots of books!

My beloved spouse has noticed the influx of reading material...

[EricWilliamMarshall]

Thanks again for the sage advice and wisdom!

[EricWilliamMarshall]

,The great COVID event has left me with very little time (so far), but I got a little time in at the bench. The supplied mast tops had holes too large to use. And I hadn’t checked them when I made the parts for the masts and prepped the supplied parts. Only when brought them all together did I notice. A recurring theme.  

 

So so then went to make my own. I took a several stabs until I figured out how to drill the wood without splitting it.

Edited March 22, 2020 by EricWilliamMarshall

[EricWilliamMarshall]

I did a little work on the masts and attempted to drill the hole in ship that will hold the masts. To drill the holes, I started with a small diameter working up to larger diameters, checking my angles each time.

[EricWilliamMarshall]

That almost worked worked. I also lost a pin from the rudder in the process and chewed up the deck a bit. How do others approach this task?

[rkwz]

Great precise work!

[VTHokiEE]

5 hours ago, EricWilliamMarshall said:

chewed up the deck a bit.

I believe that I have seen a “boot” around the mast at the deck (I’m not a sailor so please forgive my nautical terminology ignorance) that could cover any issues. Here is a link to a picture of one:

 

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/c0/fa/6d/c0fa6d475f2afd11957436fcb1a06df0.jpg

 

I added something similar in my Sharpie build which you can see here:

 

 

I believe I saw that you had some reference books for this subject. Do any of them depict anything like that?

Edited March 24, 2020 by VTHokiEE
Calm down autocorrect

[Osmosis]

I did a similar thing on my Daysailer (link below in my signature). Or you might be able to remove the surrounding planking and make the necessary repairs.

[EricWilliamMarshall]

I should have mentioned - the masts are just a dry fit. I’ll have to figure out a way to tweak the angles. I think can repair the decking. And now that folks mention it, perhaps I can ‘enhance’ that area of the ship. There is little bit of ‘furniture’ the goes around the mast for ropes and pins not shown. I’ll take a photo of that when next at the bench.

 

VTHokiEE - I see what you mean (and nice work, I’m going to steal your scupper jig idea for my next builds!)

 

Osmosis - beautiful work; the stand is a very nice addition to your model!

 

As for my books, I didn’t find anything to draw on and, after a while, I let it be. The closest thing I found are either pilot boats or cutters from the early 1800s or schooners from later in the mid-1800s.  Neither being a clear match to steal from. The kit is meant to be simple and I’m not clever enough (yet) to work too much around that. (I did add a planked deck, rails, and bulwarks though.)  I clearly see some MSW builders can pull info from Steel or James Lee; I’m not there yet.  

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Edited March 24, 2020 by EricWilliamMarshall

[EricWilliamMarshall]

As promised, the pin racks unglued just placed on the deck. There is a nub missing from the masts that the boom will rest against (and a bit of paint work as well.)

[Retired guy]

When drilling a hole like that you could drill one size smaller and then file to size it would save wood splitting.

 

Regards

Richard

[EricWilliamMarshall]

7 hours ago, Retired guy said:

When drilling a hole like that you could drill one size smaller and then file to size it would save wood splitting.

I started with pin vise with a 1/16” bit (1.6 mm) and then a larger and a larger. Then next to last I used a hand-cranked drill. And the last pass, with a cordless drill since the hand-cranked drill was pulling off target at slow speeds. The holes were undersized compared to the masts. And, yes, spent more time on this then should have, especially given the results.

[EricWilliamMarshall]

Richard, how did you get into the metal working side off things? Your work on your Bluenose is a joy to behold. For the rest of you kind souls who are reading, check out his build log! Right now! I’ll wait...go! 

 

[EricWilliamMarshall]

I was able to tweak the bow to some degree as Chuck and Chris suggested. The shim is made from a flat tooth pick. I also sneaked in some white paint that I should have done earlier. 

[EricWilliamMarshall]

As suggested by VTHokiEE and Art, there is a variety of options regarding the mast to deck intersection! I found round and square “boots” occurring in the few plans I could find. So, I going with the easier to cut square boot, which still has a chance to be historically correct (although I left that district a while ago). You may notice the square “boots” raised out of the way on the masts in the photos. I also have attempted to attach the masts (and shimmed like demon), hoping to correct my issues the drilled holes I mentioned earlier.

[Edwardkenway]

It's coming together Eric, good job. I like your adapt and overcome solutions! 

[EricWilliamMarshall]

3 hours ago, Edwardkenway said:

I like your adapt and overcome solutions!

Some days those are the only kind of solutions I seem to have!  I’m looking forward to having the sage insight and skills that so many here seem to have. But I’m in no rush. I’m enjoying scenery so far.

 

necessity is the mother of invention!

Edited March 28, 2020 by EricWilliamMarshall

[EricWilliamMarshall]

Here are a few images from ‘The Global Schooner - Origins, Development, and Construction 1695-1845’ by Karl Heinz Marquardt. This material is under copyright to Karl Heinz Marquardt and Conway Maritime Press (2003) and used here only for educational purposes.

 

A variety of square, round and even octagonal ‘boots’ for your viewing pleasure! I’m going with square and perhaps a tiny ring above it, if I can pull it off.

Edited March 28, 2020 by EricWilliamMarshall

[EricWilliamMarshall]

Deck or mast collars seem to the name of the “interface where the mast goes through the deck” and the mast boots “help prevent water leakage where the mast goes through the deck”.

Quoted from https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Deck_collars.php

[EricWilliamMarshall]

Chuck and Bill were discussing creating profile cutter or scrapers from scrap brass sheet a few weeks back at at one of Chuck’s workshop for the SMSNJ. (Thanks Chuck!!) And I thought it wouldn’t hurt to apply the idea to my little adventure.  I cut a bit of tin with snips and then used a jeweler’s saw to cut a small negative profile.

[EricWilliamMarshall]

Then I dragged the profile over the area I want to cut. I then added paint to cover the revealed wood. Ideally I would have done this earlier before assembly. So it goes.