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GEMMA 1863 by Bitao - 1:36 - Legurian Tartane from Ancre plans


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Quote > I tried winding it today. It's not ideal. It needs to be adjusted.:( <

 

The chain, I take it?  I'm guessing it kinked and tangled as it wound, too much "hole diameter" and not enough "link diameter" I suspect.

 

The shackles and hooks etc you've made look superb.

Edited by Tony Hunt
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Very 'high tech' ... the difficulty would be to get the pull equal on all three strands.

 

"Don't say I have a lot of copper... ha ha :P" - I noted that in Chinese one doesn't seem to distinguish between brass and copper (I have seen this often also in ebay offers ...). Google translator tells me:

brass = 黄铜 (Huáng tóng)
copper = 铜 (tóng)
Is this true ?

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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8 hours ago, wefalck said:

Very 'high tech' ... the difficulty would be to get the pull equal on all three strands.

 

"Don't say I have a lot of copper... ha ha :P" - I noted that in Chinese one doesn't seem to distinguish between brass and copper (I have seen this often also in ebay offers ...). Google translator tells me:

brass = 黄铜 (Huáng tóng)
copper = 铜 (tóng)
Is this true ?

It is true that language is an obstacle to our correct communication. But I think I can get the gist of it. Just be happy. . .:cheers:

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On 4/15/2020 at 7:38 PM, hyw said:

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狼叔你的甲板边缘(不知道说得对不对)是后期在制作甲板的时候一条一条修的,还是事先想好怎么做了后设计的?

wolf uncle, do you make adjustment for each deck strip to fit the edge so perfectly at the stem? or you designed it according to the Plans?

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12 hours ago, Li Qinxiang said:

狼叔你的甲板边缘(不知道说得对不对)是后期在制作甲板的时候一条一条修的,还是事先想好怎么做了后设计的?

wolf uncle, do you make adjustment for each deck strip to fit the edge so perfectly at the stem? or you designed it according to the Plans?

这个必须是逐条根据曲线去修(包括周围一圈的围板)。没法事先设计好。毕竟任何再精密的加工也会有偏差的存在,何况是容易变形的木材。即便可以避免,但组装偏差是无论如何也无法避免的(不说别的,中心基线略微的变化都会对后期的部件产生巨大影响)。为了吻合紧密必须根据实际情况去做调整。

 

Translation:

This must be repaired one by one according to the curve (including the surrounding hoop). It cannot be designed in advance. After all, no matter how precise the processing is, there will be deviations, not to mention the easily deformable wood. Even if it can be avoided, assembly deviation is unavoidable anyway (not to mention anything else, a slight change in the center baseline will have a huge impact on later parts). In order to fit closely, adjustments must be made according to the actual situation.

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34 minutes ago, hyw said:

这个必须是逐条根据曲线去修(包括周围一圈的围板)。没法事先设计好。毕竟任何再精密的加工也会有偏差的存在,何况是容易变形的木材。即便可以避免,但组装偏差是无论如何也无法避免的(不说别的,中心基线略微的变化都会对后期的部件产生巨大影响)。为了吻合紧密必须根据实际情况去做调整。

多谢解答,希望您能够早日完工!appreciate that, keep on this great work, and anticipate to see how she looks like when finished!

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  • 1 month later...

Is now entering the final stage of the rope. However, there are some problems in the winding process, after improving the previous production of the winding machine, or not very satisfied. It took nearly a month to build a new, much larger version. And added a rewinding machine. Finally, a satisfactory rope. Avoid the jumper caused by uneven tension during winding; at the same time, it can be adjusted according to the needs of the tension!

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A very nice hull and the machine is superb.  The resulting rope appears much more consistent.  i also have a 'universal' style rope walk (Byrnes) and one of the issues I also experience is the 'jumping' you highlight.  If I read correctly, you put put this down simply to uneven pressure.  Are you referring top the tension on the individual stands being uneven, or at the take up spool (or both)?

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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12 hours ago, BANYAN said:

A very nice hull and the machine is superb.  The resulting rope appears much more consistent.  i also have a 'universal' style rope walk (Byrnes) and one of the issues I also experience is the 'jumping' you highlight.  If I read correctly, you put put this down simply to uneven pressure.  Are you referring top the tension on the individual stands being uneven, or at the take up spool (or both)?

 

cheers

 

Pat

Thank you for your attention. My month of trial and error has taught me that to get the perfect rope, the following three things must be done: The spools on the original single spool must be even; that's why I have to make another spool machine; Secondly, and most importantly, it is necessary to ensure that the tension of the three wires on the winding machine is uniform when running, otherwise there will be a "jumper" phenomenon, the point of intersection of the three strands determines the degree of tightness of the line (i. e. the angle of inclination of the Single Strand) . The whole winding process must be as far as possible to ensure the smooth operation of the line, to reduce the deviation caused by the swing. And that's what separates me from  Byrnes in design!

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Thanks for the feedback HYI, much appreciated.

 

In an effort to try and keep the spools wound evenly, I have used the tensioning devices used in a sewing machine to control the 'pressure/tension' of the stock thread when I am making up the spools.  Basically, I put this between the stock cone of thread and the take up spool.

 

I have yet to find a method to maintain a consistent tension on all three (or four) feed strands coming off the spools to the winding point when making rope.  I agree (found that the hard way by experience) that the angle of the winding is as important as anything else.   All these factors become even more important when making up Right Hand Lay (RHL) rope - the LHL is much easier as the 'mechanics' of the system are all geared towards this direction of turning.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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