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Posted

It seems that you are getting there, isn't first planking fun😬, but it is all good practice for the final planking. 

All in all YOU are doing well.

Current builds;

 Henry Ramey Upcher 1:25 - on hold

 HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48 

Completed:

HM Cutter Sherbourne- 1:64 - FINISHED   Triton cross section scratch- 1:60 - FINISHED

Providence whaleboat- 1:25 - FINISHED

 

Non ship:  SBD-3 Dauntless 1:48 Hasegawa -FINISHED

 

 

Posted

Challenges are indeed fun.  The thinking that has to go into planking is extremely complicated.  One thing that I should have done while sanding the filler block was draw a straight line along the rudder that would designate where the planks would end on the stern. I am now using filler to replace material I removed. I will say that I am learning to cut the planks for tapering.  When dry the planks can be easily carved.  However I find that if they are wet I can follow a drawn line better-using a lot of care.  You can cut them dry but must use more pressure.  I am still waiting for the surfoam blade replacement that Keith suggested.  I had one but the blade was bad. I want to see how it will work.  Again as many would say working with wood is enjoyable because you can almost always recover somehow.

Thanks for your comments-it is very motivating and helpful.

Posted

 Thanks Phil

I did not realize how important using the filler is as you are planking. I am sure on the second thinking I will use more.  I must say that drawing of how fillers fit in to the keel would have been extremely helpful. But I realize that is just part of building ships. 

Posted

I am putting tracings of the gunport locations at this point in time as an illustration of how the drawings I have are not to scale-close but no cigar.  They are a little larger than my ship.  The lack of scale has been a continuous problem.

I am not ready yet to do these but it might explain why I am doing certain things.  I am only marking the center locations of the gunport holes.

 

 

1218885483_Gunporttracings.jpg.606dfd48c615f9e447525aaadb74df07.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have been out of the shipyard for various reasons. The most important was my boiler's tankless heater needed to be replaced.  While I am at I reached the point where I would replace the expansion tank, the auto vents and the relief valve.  The tankless heater was a bit tricky but not as hard as planking. Luckily most of it could be done sitting down.

At the same time my hot tub need some attention.  I was trying to balance my chemistry and finally got an error message to replace a filter. That solved the  problem tight away.

I just thought I would how a couple of pics of my status on the ship.

967689993_IMG-3478copy.jpg.a28278fa64d1853bb8837ad0e2f25123.jpg

2068971143_Bowfillblock.jpg.d259cabfc4f6cef78989e2f6164e3b6a.jpg

422935239_plankingstern.jpg.da4eecbddd6058d2f94cd7e5c15e1fe4.jpg

 

 

 

Posted

I am deliberating about the copper below the water line. any ideas about how to establish the water line out there-no instructions. I am looking at different kinds of copper.  I have used copper tape for stained glass but wondering if there is not something better.  I guess I will just smooth the area  and only use 2nd planking above the water line. 

Happy 4th to everyone -sorry Brits. It turned out good for all sides anyway.

side.thumb.jpg.53a79a93677f16bfef7fccedf223f763.jpg

Bow.thumb.jpg.6c2905d38e971ba7adcb06731323ce30.jpg

 

stern.thumb.jpg.d7abbbfbef3f1f63d458a90d72a04483.jpg

 

 

Posted

for the second planking Emmet you will get an idea of forming the tuck from my terror walnut 2nd layer as it contrasts with the 1st planking.

 

Keith

Posted

Emmet - Looks like you are almost there.  My approach was to modify the dry planks (e.g., taper), mark where they need to be curved with a pencil, then soak them for 10-15 minutes in warm water.  I created a PVC tube the length of the longest planks so I could soak the entire plank.   Once out of the tube, I have my heated plank bender (same as you have I believe) at full temperature and I then bend the planks to fit based on the pencil mark.  Once curved, I later learned to adhere them to shape with nails - not to glue them while wet.  Once dry, they will hold the shape at which time I glue them into place.  

Rob

 

active projects: HMS Victory, Mamoli 1/90 scale

 

Posted

Thanks Rob,

I guess I arrived at a similar approach.  The area I am currently working on is hairy.  The stern of the Corel model sweeps inward and then goes into a sharp bend.  I did make one of those pvc tubes. I go in and out of water depending on how long it takes me to mark and cut them.  In other areas of the hull the bends were not so dramatic and I could dry them with the heater when fitting to the hull.  I then could remove them and dry them more and then glue. In this area of the hull I am leaving them stay overnight or a few hours. Thanks for giving me your ideas. I put my ideas in the log because I feel like it is an obligation to let others know how I fumble around.

Posted

Mine  was a Very very frustrating stage  (first planking)  but somehow using different  methods I got through.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted

Let me say I appreciate all comments and they are food for thought as well as direct help.

I am almost finished with planking. 

I am trying to make up my mind about coppering. I feel like I will go with 1/2 in. copper tape or similar. I would like it to be thicher than .05 mm.  any ideas here would be helped. As i explained before it is not practical to simulate the real thin as the pieces would be much too small.  48" x14" divided by 98 is too tiny.

Here is a look at the status of all sides.

1782220539_sanding1.jpg.ffad36742f2195af6b12b5cf344ec403.jpg

 

1627728945_sanding2.jpg.b9aa05c3ccc6270c88b6c472395e7544.jpg

 

1996117783_sanding3.jpg.0c26bd78a01f7dd2c227a63f37aee128.jpg

 

884668680_sanding4.jpg.02a1cfa9e790e241321f90f910951d82.jpg

 

Posted

even if coppering her bottom i would add the second planking layer still as you will get a ridge which you shouldn't have- there should be a waterline marked on the plans somewhere- if not it will be a few mm beneath lowest part of mainwhale- i used self adhesive copper tape on my victory (luckily H.M.S. Terror had hers removed due to lack of shipworm in the arctic).

 

Keith

Posted

I am going with quarter inch copper tape. I am going to make a jig for riveting the tape. 

 Thanks for mentioning the installation of the strips.. It will give me some practice doing the walnut. Bending on the bottom of the ship is much more difficult  and it will make for a better job up top after I finish the copper. I am going to New Jersey for two weeks. I was thinking of beginning the Santa Maria down there and just leave it. Since I am almost finished with smoothing the hull so I may take it with me.

Posted

Looks a good smooth base, good luck with the top planking Emmet 😉👍

Current builds;

 Henry Ramey Upcher 1:25 - on hold

 HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48 

Completed:

HM Cutter Sherbourne- 1:64 - FINISHED   Triton cross section scratch- 1:60 - FINISHED

Providence whaleboat- 1:25 - FINISHED

 

Non ship:  SBD-3 Dauntless 1:48 Hasegawa -FINISHED

 

 

Posted

Thank you Edward.

 

I am currently installing the walnut planks which will be coppered. I will be working them up to the waterline. The walnut is easier to bend sideways.It will be a good learning experience. And I come in handy when I get up top.

Posted

Hi Emmet i left a reply to yput question in terror log- computer has gone for repair so might be delays of a day or two with replies at the mo.

 

keith

Posted

Thank you Keith. I am using some thumb tacks that have a wide head. They work best when pushing down into a frame. But they also work out OK in other areas. I am getting Some of those pins and I realize that you can push them sideways to gain some pressure on the plank. While the hole in that section will be copper I want it to be as good as possible anyway.

Posted

Looking forward to following along with your copper solution!

Rob

 

active projects: HMS Victory, Mamoli 1/90 scale

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Will be back at my New Hampshire house Tuesday.  In addition to grandson's graduation the Admiral has to have some Mohs surgery tomorrow.

anxious to get back to the Victory.  While I was here I started the Santa Maria and got her framed. The SM will be my traveling ship. At 30" it is 

easy to transport. It is also a simpler ship than Victory.

see 

 

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