Swampscott Dory by Grisha - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - Scale 1:12

[Grisha]

Ok, Take II. I started a build and a build log, got very discouraged because it's a beginner's model and I found myself stymied by something new at every step, and scrapped the build log assuming I wasn't going to continue. I've taken a couple of deep breaths and am going to give it another go. 

 

Here's the image from after I assembled the frames, placed them (incorrectly) on the bottom piece, and attached the stem and transom (possibly also not quiet correctly.) I'm about one step past that and about to cross my fingers and see how planking goes. 

 

 

 

[bolin]

Welcome back!

 

I’m very happy that you will give it another go. My best wishes and hope for your success and enjoyment in the build.

 

 

[Grisha]

The frame is now glued to the board for planking. As is probably visible, some combination of the placement of frame #2 (which is supposed to be closer to the center...I didn't see measurements anywhere so I just eyeballed it and set it where the width of the frame matched the width of the bottom piece) and the fact that the frames weren't quite perpendicular to the bottom piece (I wasn't sure how to make them so--if I put an object with a right angle up against the frame, I assumed it would get glued in place along with the frame) means that two of the frames are askance and one "foot" if you will doesn't quite touch the board.

 

I don't think it'll be a huge issue but I assume it will make the garboards fit a little less closely. We'll see. I got debonder but I'm reluctant to undo very much, especially now that I understand that debonder makes the wood un-glue-able. 

Edited May 9, 2020 by Grisha

[Grisha]

Now here's what's next. I've tried to dry-fit the first garboard to see how it's going to go. I started with the straight back edge as close to the corner with the transom as possible. Fitted this way, it looks easy enough to have the bottom line of the garboard conform to the (beveled) curve of the bottom piece.

[Grisha]

Here's the catch. I assumed the front edge of the garboard would slope right down the curve of the stem. It doesn't. Not even close. See photo from the facing side: there is a ton of overhang I assume would bump up against the other one, which will have the same issue. Does this mean I've placed the stem too far back onto the bottom piece? Is my best bet to trim it with an Xacto and sand it down? Or....?

[gsdpic]

Hi....Good start.  I built this model about 5 years ago, before I discovered MSW so no build log.  I do recall that the fit of the planks was somewhat rough...i.e. they were all a bit larger than needed.  But I don't recall the difference being as great as what you show.  I suspect that you are correct thinking that the stem piece is farther back than intended.  But it also looks like maybe that plank is not as far back as it should be...notice the gap near the top of the plank, between the plank and the transom.   I think I would move the plank back a little to close that gap and carefully trim some off the front of the plank.  It might be helpful to trim some of the front of the bottom piece as well so that you don't have that little point sticking out, allowing the bottom front corner of the plank to sit against the stem.

[VTHokiEE]

Looking forward to seeing this take shape.  I think gsdpic has some good suggestions looking at the pictures now.

[Jim T]

Have you seen this video?

 

 

 

There's a shot of the full size plans in the video and it looks like they show the correct location and orientation of the frames. Also there's a profile of the keel, stem and transom, so you can check the alignment of those. 

 

Also you can use a right angle with a couple of shims added to space it away from where the glue joint is if you think there's going to be an issue during gluing.

 

This looks like a nice kit. I like these larger scale small boats.

 

Jim 

[Grisha]

One garboard plank glued. Very glad the guy I called via Bluejacket told me to get accelerator. As suggested, it's moved back from where I had it dry-fit in the picture above (now a tiny overhang on the transom, and I just discovered very thin wood doesn't sand well) and I have demonstrably not mastered the art of getting a tiny bit of glue to go where it needs, but...it's on there. It does look like I'm going to have to trim a lot from the stem to get the front edge to line up at all. 

[Grisha]

Both garboards on now. There was some trimming and sanding and they are very slightly askance but it's fine. I have one plank clothes-pinned on for the next layer but it doesn't lie flat on the garboard. Hoping a good soak will fix this--otherwise I think my boat is going to have some big gaps and not look remotely seaworthy. 

 

If this step goes ok, I get to separate the frames from the board and work upside-right. 

[VTHokiEE]

23 hours ago, Grisha said:

I have demonstrably not mastered the art of getting a tiny bit of glue to go

You might already be using something similar but I picked up some bob smith CA pipettes (pictures towards or at the bottom here: https://bsi-inc.com/hobby/access.html) on eBay as a 12 pack. I’m still not great about CA placement but they helped me a lot during planking and I’m certain they will help elsewhere.

 

Also - For PVA I use some syringes that I got on Amazon to help.

Edited May 10, 2020 by VTHokiEE
The things my phone autocorrects...

[Grisha]

Off the board. No clear idea whether I have the right amount of overlap. There is a lot of glue on this here boat. 

[VTHokiEE]

58 minutes ago, Grisha said:

No clear idea whether I have the right amount of overlap

There’s probably a “right” amount of overlap, but if it looks good to your eye then I would say you’re in good shape. 
 

Looks good from here though!

Edited May 10, 2020 by VTHokiEE

[Grisha]

The planking is obviously a mess, but it's done. On to the next mess!

[Grisha]

Soooooo the next step. (Not counting the gripe which is pretty straightforward.) I'm supposed to trim the planking to the sheer line "as shown on the plans." I wonder if I'm just being completely dense but I don't see the sheer line anywhere on the plan and don't really know what this means. I'm also a little curious about how to cut the frames off 1/16" below aforementioned sheer line without damaging the planks though I'm assuming the answer is just going to be "veeeeery carefully." 

[MrBlueJacket]

Regarding the garboard strakes, look at the instructions page 5 where it starts with "hull planking" - the second sentence says the garboard strakes are cut oversize to allow for trimming. So you did not do anything wrong!

[MrBlueJacket]

As for applying the CA glue, look at the tip of the month in this link (near the bottom)

 

http://campaign.r20.constantcontact.com/render?m=1105166336677&ca=64bf22da-704d-496c-8e70-95bc1220ea79

[VTHokiEE]

On 5/11/2020 at 9:21 PM, Grisha said:

curious about how to cut the frames off

You might use a flush cutter, but that will pinch the wood some so leave a little extra height and file that flat.

[Grisha]

Frames cut off and cut 1/16"-ish below the edge of the top plank. Strip wood glued fora rail and a rub strake. That whole assembly needs some sanding as it does not look like one piece.  Now working on the centerboard assembly.

[Grisha]

After I glue the centerboard assembly in place, I'm about to put in the cleats and the bent ribs that go up the sides over them, but ninety steps ago I placed frame #2 completely wrong, and it's where one of set of cleats and ribs should go. Not sure what to do about that. 

 

I think I may do the centerboard assembly with wood glue, as I keep having to correct for the fact that, even without accelerant, CA glue sometimes sticks things firmly in place before you've got it quite where you want it.

 

I think why I had such a bad first start on this is that, I'm finding, a lot of how this goes together is learned through mistakes, and it's kind of maddening to make a bunch of visible mistakes on something that cost a hundred bucks (and another hundred for tools, paint, etc.) I'm surer of what I'm doing now, though that's purely relative and I still don't know how a lot of it is done *well*, so that it looks good.

Edited May 14, 2020 by Grisha
Didn't finish my thought.

[Grisha]

Minor delay ahead:  the tool set from Blue Jacket includes drill bits #75, 67, and 51, and the kit calls for drill bits 56, 65, and 70. 

[MrBlueJacket]

Look at where and why the drills are used - often a different diameter will work just fine. You're only talking a few thousandths of an inch. If you think you will do another model, consider the entire #61-80 drill set.

 

As for mistakes - the definition of experience is "what you get right after you needed it"

[VTHokiEE]

10 hours ago, Grisha said:

I think I may do the centerboard assembly with wood glue, as I keep having to correct for the fact that, even without accelerant, CA glue sometimes sticks things firmly in place before you've got it quite where you want it.

I try to use wood glue as much as possible (but I still use CA for many things). Part of my decision making process involves how well I think that I can clamp, or keep a part in the right place while drying and how confident I am in its placement. I can usually increase my confidence in placement by thinking it over for awhile, but if I think that its going to be tricky to hold still I'll probably use some CA. On my last build I learned to use CA for my planking (many use PVA, but CA worked really well for me) and I think it came out rather well.

 

10 hours ago, Grisha said:

I'm about to put in the cleats and the bent ribs that go up the sides over them, but ninety steps ago I placed frame #2 completely wrong, and it's where one of set of cleats and ribs should go. Not sure what to do about that. 

Can you shift the placement of these without too much issue? Maybe look ahead in the directions to make certain you are not placing them in the way of something else, but shifting their placement will most likely only be known to you in the end and everyone who looks at the model will have no idea.

[Grisha]

Centerboard box is together, looks ok. Cut a path through the #2 frame. Drilled a hole in it/the centerboard using a drill bit the next size down (with my fingers, ouch, because it was too tiny for the pin vise to grip.) Not sure what the hinge pin looks like so I put one of the brass-colored pins with a loop in it through there at least for the moment. I think I need to order some finish* for the centerboard and box before I go further. I'd like to go ahead and finish it rather than painting it because, unlike the rest of the boat, it doesn't have tons of glue on it to mess things up.

 

*linseed oil? I read a long thread of recommendations varying from sorta "detailed set of things for experts" to more straightforward and linseed oil sounded nice and basic. I'm going to ask my friend who repairs tons of antique radios what he thinks.

[MrBlueJacket]

You are doing a credible job for your first model. Keep it up!

[Grisha]

Waiting for linseed oil to finish the centerboard box and maybe the bottom piece which isn't too glue-y. It looks like I'm going to have to trim the seats because it somehow ended up too narrow to just pop them in. 

[Grisha]

I wonder if I should just be using this instead of waiting for the linseed oil. Or does this eventually go over the coats of opaque color? 

[MrBlueJacket]

The glosscoat is to finish pieces left natural wood color, or stained. Not sure if it will go over linseed oil. Best to do a small test.

[Grisha]

Linseed oil finally got here. Wondering if I can use any old cloth, like maybe an old t-shirt, to apply it, or if it'll shed too much/what people do use.

[VTHokiEE]

The best idea is to take some scrap wood that you don’t need for the build anymore and test applying with the cloth/t-shirt.

 

I haven’t used linseed oil but I typically paint it on and then use a cloth (old t-shirt and wipe it after).