Wütender Hund by Chuck Seiler - Shipyard - 1/72 - Hanseatic Cog 1390 - CARD

[Chuck Seiler]

    You have to be careful to avoid those unicorns.

 

    I guess to understand how they steered you have to understand how they navigated.  Prior to the compass I guess they remained pretty much within sight of land and the helm orders were "go that way and don't run into anything".  In that, the helmsman had to see where they were going.  I know the Vikings did some open ocean sailing with the use of different nav tools, but that was an exception. With the advent of the compass (1200 in Europe?) he only needed to know what point of the compass to steer.  As long as the officer of the watch could transmit that info, I guess that was okay.

 

    I forget how small those ships really were.  Looking at replicas of MATTHEW of BRISTOL and VICTORIA, both with open decks under the after castle, somebody with a robust voice could pass that info...as long as there was not much urgency or they were not in a storm.  Oh well, they did it somehow and they didn't have whipstaffs...so that's the name of that tune. 

[Chuck Seiler]

    Closely considering my next step, I noted that when I pierced the hull for the beams, I filed perpendicular to the plank.  If the side of the hull were perpendicular to the wate3rline this would have worked fine.

 

    ...the sides are NOT perpendicular, so if the beam is placed in the hole square to the hole it is not parallel to the water line.  In order for it to be so by forcing it or twisting it, the hole ends up being larger than required (the plank and associated support wood are about 3mm thick).

   Care must be taken to pierce the hull at the correct angle. 

 

    I practiced using wood the appropriate thickness.  The correct angle will be easy on the actual model.  Much success.  On to the real thing.

[Louie da fly]

And it seemed so simple. What could possibly go wrong?

 

Steven

[Chuck Seiler]

Indeed

[Chuck Seiler]

    Practice complete and installation attempted.  Two out of the five (4 of 10) holes were encumbered by bulkheads, but I was able to work around (or thru) that.

 

    Installation of all under deck beams complete.  I still have one above deck beam, but that will come later.

 

    Not to bad, even close up.  When stained, you should not see any issues. 

 

   Putting the deck into place.  Before I forget, emplace support blocks for the pedestals.  I wish I had thought of this sooner...I would have placed the blocks below the 'lower deck'.

[Louie da fly]

Nice save on the bulkheads being in the way of the deck beams. The build is going well. And looking good. 

 

I still can't get over the difference in the hull shape of reconstructions before and after the discovery of the Bremen cog. This is how they thought a cog would look - much narrower (at least at the top) than it turned out to be.

 

 

Steven

Edited February 25, 2021 by Louie da fly

[Chuck Seiler]

    Some progress.  Much time waiting for stain to dry and I went to the beach.  Isn't it 75 degrees everywhere?

 

    I finished decking 6 of the 7 main deck panels.  According to the plans, at this point I should have completed the bow, stern and furthest outboard port and starboard panel.  Not sure why interior panels are not completed.  I wanted to stain and preserve the deck before I continued with hull planking and so to ensure consistent color, I decked all but center panel.  I was going to do all, but for some reason I remembered I should keep the center unplanked.

 

    Oh!  Now I remember why I wanted to leave the center unplanked.   My effort to be consistent went for naught.  Despite being stained at the same time, the two inner panels are slightly different...no doubt due to difference in wood.  NATURAL stain used.

 

    Hull planking continues. 

[Rodolfo Bigoni]

Hi Chuck,

I had a similar problem myself. I solved with a second layer of varnish on the lighter wood; it could make the difference much more nuanced.
A very light sanding on the darker woods would make them lighter...

Rodolfo

[Chuck Seiler]

Rodolfo,

    I thought about that but once dry the difference is alot less.  Pressing on.

[Chuck Seiler]

    Progress continues, but it is slow.  I keep popping the glue joints.  I am at a very delicate phase of the model.  The first strake above the main deck overlaps the one below by only 1MM along most of the hull and edge glued at bow and stern.  Supporting false frames and uprights are not added until later.  My sausage-fingered handling of the model often cause a seam to pop.

 

    Huzzah!!!!  Equilibrium!  The plan says to install the false bulkheads first, then the support structure fore and aft.  The false frames are spaced a quarter inch apart along the length of the hull and stick up until the top strake is added.  Sixty six vulnerable pieces waiting to be snapped off.

 

    I decided to do the fore and aft support structures first.  Added strength with only 2 breakables.

    "Safety caps" added. 

[ccoyle]

The false frames are small, but not delicate. I can't recall snapping any off once they were glued in.

[Chuck Seiler]

    BEFORE installing the top strake?  I agree anything glued in place is strong...where it is glued.  It is my experience is that I install all the frames and don't immediately 'cover' them with a plank, I will eventually snap one or more off.  As I said, I am quite sausage fingered.

[Louie da fly]

1 hour ago, Chuck Seiler said:

It is my experience is that I install all the frames and don't immediately 'cover' them with a plank, I will eventually snap one or more off. 

 

 

Me too, I'm afraid.

 

Steven

[Chuck Seiler]

    Progress continues.  A number of false frames are installed in the stern area starboard side.  Once dried, the aft-most plank section of the upper strake is installed.  With all other strakes I started at the bow and worked back because it was critical that the plank placement on the stem be exact while the stern could be fudged.  With the finals strake I started at the stern because it will eventually end with a 'flying end'.

 

    I chose not to install all the false frames before installing the plank.  I found it works better for me.  I will add the remainder later...probably right after I post this.  My glue job is less than great.  This will be under the stern structure so will not be too visible.  I need to work on my technique.

 

    I added one false frame right at a location where there is a seem in the strake below.   This adds strength to that strake and also provides support so I can dry-fit the forward plank group.  I need to do this to be sure where the strake actually ends because that is where the above-deck deck beam will need to be located.  As currently cut, the hole can be expanded 1/16" fore or aft as needed.

 

    Hole cut and beam installed.  I had to install the forward section of the center row of deck planks because it tucks under the beam.  You can tell the diff between the stained and unstained planks.

 

    I left the remainder unplanked.  This allows me to pick up the model without having to touch the delicate edges.

[ccoyle]

Remember, there's two inner bulwark planks. These go a long way towards hiding glue oopsies.

[Chuck Seiler]

Oh!  That's right.  Still, I should strive to be more careful.

[Chuck Seiler]

    Progress Continues...

 

    Stern hull supports and false frames for aft strakes are in place.  Aft strakes in place.

 

    Vertical knee and support added to port side above-deck deck beam.  Blackened bamboo peg/trunnel is test fitted into knee.  This will serve to strengthen the knee and act as 'bolt'.

 

    Mast support in place.  I decided to add a little color by staining it "Sedona Red"  Whadya think?

[Louie da fly]

Looking good. 

 

Steven

[Baker]

Nice color. 

[Chuck Seiler]

    Much progress made.  All the false frames have been installed and the interior planking also installed.  I was concerned with staining under the interior planking.  As you can see there are gaps between the strakes and you can see underneath.  The back side of the planks are not the same material as the front and do not take stain well.  One side I attempted to stain and the other I painted. 

 

    The interior planking took stain well.  I used 2 coats of Natural and 2 of Golden Pecan.  I will probably use the same for the exterior planking.  Should I apply Poly Wipe On or will it goober up the finish (the stain being oil based)?

 

    Center deck planking has been added and stained as well.  Hatch coaming added.

 

    I am now at the same point of construction as I am with Cardy Dog.

Edited March 27, 2021 by Chuck Seiler
Forgot a paragraph

[catopower]

Hi Chuck! I haven't peeked in on either your Cardy Dog or Woody Dog builds in a while. Woody Dog looks really good with the staining you did. It's also nice in that it seems to bring out those laser engraved nail heads. 

 

I've been busy with various things, but I will get back to finishing my Bremen Cog shortly. Your build is giving me some inspiration!

 

[Chuck Seiler]

    I am really liking the wood version.  The parts are much crisper and forgiving.

[catopower]

Chuck, I'm also now at the stage where I am understanding why you decided to add real beams through the hull planks. I think I'm going to be okay with the kit's built-up beam ends, but it's a lot of little bits.

 

Shipyard recently came out with a third wooden cog model kit. It's the Hanse Kogge von Bremen – same as the laser-cut card model I'm working on. But, interestingly enough, it's noticeably more expensive than the other wooden cog kits.

 

Please keep going on your build – It keeps pushing me along to finish mine! And thanks! 😁

[Chuck Seiler]

    Oh boy!!!  Another cog model!!!!

 

    Yes, the laminating of the small parts are a major pain.  Even with the large parts I don't seem to get them aligned correctly, but am usually able to fix it (sand).  The beam ends were a lamination too far.

 

    I am still grinding away with the small stuff on deck but need to decide which way I want to go with the super structure.  I originally wanted to make the wood version into a traditional Bremen Cog but am now tending towards the "as designed" Wutender Hund version.

 

    I am looking forward to seeing your progress as well.

[Chuck Seiler]

    Progress continues.  finishing up small parts of the bow area.  Got photobombed by a bug who got onto the model before I starting photographing. 

 

    Clare---I found you missing parts.

 

    I did not like the laminated bitts so I made my own.

 

    Next step.  Add gudgeons to the stern, then stain the exterior hull.

 

    ...ooops, I have to stain the bow support thingies as well.

Edited April 10, 2021 by Chuck Seiler

[catopower]

Chuck, more nice work. Did you make the bug or was it included in the kit?

 

It's all looking great. Did you run into the same issue that I did on discovering the bow support structure thingies late in the build?

[Chuck Seiler]

Clare,

 

    No, the support structures were there.  I was just curious as to why we were adding them AFTER the ladder.  Once I made the ladder, however, and saw the notches I figured it out. 

[catopower]

Hey Chuck,

 

Don't know how it is on the wooden kit, but on the card kit, don't add the rudder until the build is done. The straps are just too delicate and any small bump can knock the rudder loose and tear out hinges. My rudder has taken quite a beating 🤨

[Chuck Seiler]

Many thanks.  You/Chris warned about not installing the tiller before adding the superstructure.  I will heed this warning as well.  I am using Weldbond to attach the straps/hinges but I am not sure how secure they will be.

[Chuck Seiler]

    Cog has been stained.  Nothing exciting...same as before except a little darker.  While I was waiting for glue and stain to dry over the last week, I started working on the stern castle.

 

    The first part consists of a base, 3 complete sides and 1 partial side.

 

   The base has a bunch of under-deck structure designed to make it stronger.  Unfortunately after everything was in place the base structure started to warp.  I tried to straighten it out by misting it and placing a heavy object on it.  Once dry, it was straight, but a half hour later was warped again.

 

    I was hoping the addition of the sides, which also have strengthening internal supports, would solve the problem.  It did, but only slightly.

 

   I clamped a solid piece of wood to the inside of the structure to keep it stable while building.

 

    Exterior of the structure before improvements are added.  This includes exterior bracing panels and decoration. 

 

    Exterior bracing panels added.  As you can see, the warping still exists.  I think this will be an issue until I 'bolt' the whole structure to the deck.  Next step, decorations and more interior structure.