Wütender Hund by Chuck Seiler - Shipyard - 1/72 - Hanseatic Cog 1390 - CARD

[catopower]

Chuck, good luck with that warping – it's definitely weird. Hopefully, it straightens out once it's fastened into place.

 

By the way, I'm working on the rigging now on my Cog 'o' Card. Was just wondering, did Shipyard make some laser-cut wooden blocks for your kit? Or did they stick with their laser-cut card blocks?

[Chuck Seiler]

Clare,

 

    They came with the same built-up/laminated blocks as the card version except wood.  I am swapping out with SYREN blocks.

[catopower]

It's great that they make the blocks and deadeyes in wood. The card blocks are actually very nice, but I just had to make sure to shoot them with thin CA to harden them up – the innards are otherwise too squishy and close up the holes, so I can't push the rigging line through them.

 

I'm surprised you mention using Syren blocks, since they're an 18th century style blocks and the cog is 14th century. Do you think they're more fitting than the kit stuff? I'm not sure what 14th century blocks are supposed to look like, but these kit block certainly have an "old-style" look to them.

[Chuck Seiler]

9 hours ago, catopower said:

I'm surprised you mention using Syren blocks, since they're an 18th century style blocks and the cog is 14th century. Do you think they're more fitting than the kit stuff? I'm not sure what 14th century blocks are supposed to look like, but these kit block certainly have an "old-style" look to them.

Hmmm.  Hadn't thought of that.  I was thinking the kit supplied blocks didn't look quite right.  Perhaps it is because I am so used to seeing 18th century blocks.  I guess I need to look at some of Louie da Fly's olde tyme cog paintings and re-evaluate.

[Brinkman]

Nice to see the progress! Regarding inspiration for blocks, here is a block from the Almere wijk 13 cog

Edited April 21, 2021 by silverman834

[Chuck Seiler]

Excellent, thanks.  If I am not mistaken, the Almere wreck is early 15th century; slightly later than my cog, but in the same ballpark.

 

The stropping appears to start off exterior to the block on the bottom side, then transitions to internal about 2/3 of the way up, then out though the top.  Am I seeing that correctly?

[Brinkman]

@Chuck Seiler I think it's like this - there are internal channels are at the tops and the rope loops underneath the block. Dashed lines are internal

[Chuck Seiler]

That is how I read it as well.  It seems to be more difficult than it needs to be, but I guess they did it that way for a reason.

[druxey]

But that method means that the block cannot slip out of the line - the line would have to break first.

[Chuck Seiler]

That's what duct tape is for.  😁

 

Makes sense.  why did that practice stop?

[Chuck Seiler]

    The decorative moulding on the stern castle is complete.

 

    You can see by the included ruler how thin this stuff is.  Perhaps 1mm...and cross grain along half of it.  I chose to paint the parts on the part tree, before removal.  This turned out to be a good choice.  It strengthened the part and prevents smudging of the red color onto the rest of the castle.

 

    The next step is to build the under carriage of the stern castle.  We'll see how that goes.

[ccoyle]

10 hours ago, Chuck Seiler said:

I chose to paint the parts on the part tree, before removal.  This turned out to be a good choice.

 

I agree! I did the same for mine. I can't imagine anyone with a steady enough hand to paint that after it's already on the model.

[Chuck Seiler]

    DANG!!!!!!!!!  I am 2/3 of the way thru the under-carriage for the stern castle and wanted to test fit to see if all was lining up and to see if I could get it to lay flat.  I was able to get it to lay flat and all 4 tabs fit into the appropriate slot.  YAAAHOOOO.  However, looking from the stern it appears uneven.   DANG!!!!  Something must be wrong with the castle.  There is about a 1/8" difference between the top of the gun'l from port and starboard.  DANG!!!

 

    I measured all 4 stations, bottom to top of castle, on both side.  Both sides matched up

 

    I ran a plumb along the center of the deck, from the bow-sprit-thingy in the bow to the aftmost part of the castle.  The castle is centered.  I then ran a vertical plum using the bow sprit and sternpost as guides.  The castle is centered.  My conclusion is that despite reasonably closely hitting all the marks in the planking proces, I missed the mark by 1/8 inch.  Short of pulling all the planking apart, I need to figure a way to resolve the issue.  

 

    Any thoughts?

 

 

[ccoyle]

I think if you were to really work at fixing that alignment problem, you'd probably throw off the alignment elsewhere (and remember I had worse issues with my build, trying to get the stern castle structure seated). Considering that the issue is likely only noticeable when viewed from dead astern, I'd vote to just leave it.

[druxey]

You are probably accurate to the way the actual cog was!

[Chuck Seiler]

    I have had time to think about it...even had dreams (the mind trying to solve the problem).  I am sure nobody here has EVER had that happen.  😁  Along with these thoughts and your inputs I came up with a few options.  I wanted to complete the undercarriage and re-test fit to see exactly where I stood before proceeding.  Test fit complete.  Pics and discussion to follow.

[Chuck Seiler]

    With the full under-carriage in place it does not look quite as bad.  The side is still a problem but the stern (which is pretty much exposed) is closer than I thought.  I can work with it.

 

    I was contemplating minor surgery.  The top 4 strakes are not tied into the sternpost so it would not be a complete teardown.  There are some underplank supports that would have to be dealt with, but that will be, for the most part, unseen so any damage will not be a big deal.

 

    Option 1 would be to use isopropyl alcohol to unglue and peel back the upper strake to the point indicated.  Strake #2 would be unglued as well, except the rear-most plank would be removed and replaced with one that gets gradually wider towards the end.  Strake 1 would then be glued back in place.  One downside would be a new twist to strake 1.  This may end up being unacceptable.  Option 2 would be the same except to replace strake 1 with a wider version, connecting it so there is no twist.  This has the benefit of requiring less of a flair at the end.

 

    Both of these will result in new, unstained, planking being added.  It will probably result in the loss of uniformity of color when stained.

 

    Option 3 is to manipulate the stern castle planking so as to cover the gap, but be uniform on both sides.  Bend to fit/paint to match.

 

    Regardless of the option, I will need to figure some way to fix or hide the gap in the stern.

Edited April 28, 2021 by Chuck Seiler

[Chuck Seiler]

Chuck's Paint and Body Shoppe-

Bend to fit.  Paint to match.  Close enough for government work

 

 

 

[Chuck Seiler]

    That was just a quick and dirty to show where I am.  I wanted to get in and out so all the comments and such can come pouring in.  <crikt crikt>  The process was easier than anticipated but would have been easier without the castle in place.

 

    At this point, I am thinking of 'Wipe on Poly'ing the hull.  Is there any issue with applying poly over oil based stain?

[Louie da fly]

Looking good, Chuck. You'd never know there'd been a problem. Good save.

 

Steven

[Chuck Seiler]

Thanks.  I would have preferred it worked out right the first time, but this is a good alternative.

[catopower]

Your fix looks very good Chuck! 

 

And, I like the decorative trim on that stern castle. Looks very nicely done. 

 

Sorry I can't comment on applying the wipe-on poly over oil based stain. Have you tried it yet?

 

[Chuck Seiler]

    Thanks Clare.  I am pretty happy with the way the trim turned out.  I have done that before...painting before putting it on the model, but this had its own challenges.  One panel on the stern and 2 on the bow had one one area snap and curl due to the moisture in the paint.  I corrected by using painted thread.  I will show this in my next post.

 

    I tried the WOP on the deck.  Not terribly bad, but as good as I would have liked.  I will not be using it on the hull.  I may use Tung oil or just leave it as is.

 

    Update due tomorrow.

[Chuck Seiler]

    Progress continues.  The forward castle (front porch) is complete and ready to be mounted.

 

    As mentioned in an earlier post, I had issues with the trim becoming damaged during the painting process due to the moisture in the paint (a break in the structure and curling).  You can see one such place on the port side.  And a close up of the same location:  Red painted thread.

 

    Some detail on the stern castle completed:  This includes the under deck windlass, the above deck capstan and the forward wall of the stern castle (billboard).

 

    The capstan from another angle.  I still have not figured out what it is for.

    Up Next:  Some blocks and deadeyes.  I also want to mount the model on a base before I start the rigging process.

[mtaylor]

Looks good and I love the billboard.

[catopower]

I agree that it looks good. But, my thought was from the cartoon The Jetsons, where George Jetson worked for Spacely Space Sprockets and the rival company was called Cogswell Cogs 🙂

 

And, when I read your first sentence, where you wrote "front porch", maybe because it's your Woody Dog, I thought I read "front pooch"!

 

About those repairs, they're completely unnoticeable.

Edited May 16, 2021 by catopower

[Louie da fly]

My understanding is that the capstan was used to hoist the yard.

 

I love the advertising for Bjorn's Used Cogs .

[Chuck Seiler]

Steven, 

 

      The under-deck windlass is used to hoist the yard.  One suggestion was that it was to hoist the anchor, but it appears poorly positioned for that.  Cargo loading maybe?

[druxey]

You should rent out space on the billboard! Looking good, Chuck.

[Waldemar]

In reality, this above deck capstan asks more questions than it answers. Cargo loading? Yard bracing? Steering-wheel forerunner? Something else?

 

At this place, it does not appear perhaps on any other known ship. One-time experiment? Wish to know too...