Viking Drakkar by Matt H - FINISHED - Amati - Scale 1:50

[Matt H]

Here is my most recent build. I have historically started ships and not finished them, or sidelined them and start something new, so this time I decided to wait until I finished the build before I posted my build log. Although I am not quite finished, I am almost there and will have it completed within a week or so, depends on how long the oars take me. I have not abandoned the other builds I have started, but decided to put them on hold while I work on some slightly smaller projects before moving forward with them.

 

As usual here is the required box opening and contents photos. Everything was well packaged. There is a single sheet of plans that were in Italian, some picture instructions with a few words in Italian. The text instructions had a separate sheet in English. I did have to get my phone to look up some Italian to English translation on a few words in the images and plans, but overall the instructions were adequate.

 

I will make several smaller posts of my progress rather than one large one. More to come shortly.

 

 

[Matt H]

Moving on to the keel and bulkheads. The first photos here show the guide lines on the stem and stern for the planking to follow. This ship is a clinker ship so the planking is unique compared to most other ships we see here.

 

 

I never got a photo of the bulkheads without any planks on so here you can see the first plank going on. The clamps along the bottom are pressed just up against the plank holding it against the bulkhead, rather than pinching it against the bulkhead. These planks are also pre-made and each row is a specific plank to be placed down, each one slightly overlapping the previous one.

 

 

[Matt H]

Next up we have the planks complete and I chemically blackened the brass nails that were included. Although there were not enough to put in every plank at each bulkhead as well as the stem and stern, I had to order an additional bag.

 

I forgot to get some photos of the nails after they were installed, so I got some later in the build. In these photos you can also see that I have drilled out the holes for the oars and attached the shield racks. Each of these nails I predrilled the hole and then placed the point of the nail in and then pushed the head of the nail until it was completely set.

 

 

[Matt H]

Next up I worked on the deck. Between each set of bulkheads we alternate the pattern of the deck slats. On one set of bulkheads two slats but up against one another with their edges running down the center line of the ship running stem to stern. In the next set of bulkheads a single slat is centered on that same center line. So each set of slats from bulkhead to bulkhead alternate by half a slat. Running across the ship from one side to the other is another slat of a slightly different size and material from the main deck that covers up the ends of these short slats.

 

In between each slat I ran a pencil line down the seam. On the right side you can see it after sanding as opposed to non sanded on the left. You can also see the hole for the mast cutout and there is a pre-cut slot for the mast in the keel.

 

The frame of the ship, bulkheads, keel, and plank have all been coated in a dark walnut danish oil, 3 coats. The deck has regular natural danish oil applied. There are some spots inside on the planks above the deck where some glue didn't get cleaned up well and you can see the result with the danish oil not penetrating through that glue. 

[Matt H]

At this point I went ahead and applied some primer to all the metal parts that needed painting so I will also include some photos of the completed items. I decided I wanted to do something different from red or black and yellow for the shields so I opted for some colors I like. Also the shields aren't really designed accurately to what we know of Vikings historically. The shields supplied in the kit here have a metal banding around the outer edge of the shield in addition to the center boss. From what I have read there isn't a lot that has survived the years from the age of the Vikings, but what we do know is that there isn't often much found with their remains of the shields. Meaning it wasn't likely that they had a metal banding around the outside edges of theirs shields otherwise remnants of those metal bands would have been found. Instead it is thought that they may have wrapped leather around the edges or sometimes all across the front of the shield to counter splintering when the shield was hit from an enemy weapon. The metal boss in the center is something that was present in Viking shields. 

 

So what I decided to do was to paint the backs of the shields brown like wood, the edges of the shield a slightly different shade of brown to simulate a leather wrapping around the edge. There is also a layer of something between the center boss and the wood shield, presumably metal that is part of the boss. However I decided to make that in between layer also a layer of leather so I painted it the same color as the outer edge. Then of course the center boss is a metal iron color and the two different colors I chose for the wooden front of the shield.

 

The shields were also designed with what I presume are nails holding the, as designed, metal banding around the edge on. So I made those out to be nails holding on "my" leather edge banding on so I applied just a dab of that same metal iron colored paint.

 

The kit also came with the chest, barrel, axe, and bow as seen. I will tie a small black string on the bow before I'm finished.

 

 

[Matt H]

Next up I started attaching the rest of the items to the deck. There are 2 trestle bases, and one mast coaming trestle, which is centered over the antique bronze mast coaming centered on the deck. On the port and starboard sides are two oar racks each where the oars will be stored when under sail. There are 5 cleats attached on the side walls of each side of the ship as well as one at the bow and one on the bottom of the mast. I also build the rudder, it is made up of 4 pieces and I wish I had gotten a photo of those pieces before assembly.

 

In the photo below it is still sitting in my keel clamp and that pushes the rudder up slightly, it will hang down just a little bit more. The part that is touching the keel clamp is pre-made and is the same thin material the planks are made from. Moving up and to the right from the bottom of the rudder you will see a small lighter colored round piece behind it, that is the rudder stock and it has a hole through it with a piece of rope running from the rudder to the inside of the ship. It happens to be under the decking so I made a small wire eyelet to attach the rope to and the eyelet is bent in an upside down V shape. When pushed through the hole it expands slightly preventing it from pulling out. The loop in the eyelet is inside the hole in the rudder stock and then the rope is knoted on this side of the rudder. 

 

Moving just slightly up from there we come to the end of the pre-made rudder and to the two parts that were both made from 4mm dowel. They were shaped according to the images on the plans and a tenon was made to attach the handle. The plans called for a hole in the raised section of the top plank for another rope to go through to the rudder. This rope combined with the above mentioned rope kept it attached and in the proper position for functionality. However, the plans weren't very clear on how to attach the rope or the rope wrapping. So what I did was drill two holes through the center of the rudder. The hole on the top right closest to the handle has the rope knotted in the back of the rudder, then I began the wrapping and went through the hole in the bottom going towards the ship. This is the line that went through the hole in that raised section of the top plank and is knotted behind it.

The anchor was another thing I debated with, unfortunately I didn't start this debate until after it was partially assembled and I didn't want to take it apart. The kit supplies the short length of chain seen here, but then the instructions say to attach a section of rope to that chain. I debated on using the chain at all, because it seemed odd to me that they would use two different materials. I would have thought either use a longer chain or just use rope. Maybe someone can chime in as to why this is. In the end I already had the chain attached to the anchor and one end of rope attached to the deck. 

 

They didn't supply an eyelet or any suggestion to attache the rope to the deck so I made an eyelet out of some black wire, drilled a hole in the deck, and glued it in. I then made a ring from the same wire, then I made a loop in the end of the rope, seized it and attached the rope to the ring and the ring to the eyelet in the deck. I later did the same on the other end, ran the rope through the chain, made a loop, and seized it.

Last we have the blocks and dead eyes. They are of a different design than most ships have, but you have to remember this is a 9th century ship so things are bound to be different.

[Matt H]

Next up we have the sail making. I first soaked the entire sheet of provided material in some tea for about 15 minutes and let it hang dry. It did dye it slightly, next time I may need to soak it a bit longer. I then soaked it in a 50/50 solution of water and white glue. It was then ironed and laid out over the plans. I very lightly, in pencil, traced out the pattern of the sail, leaving a slightly larger edge for the hem, and the criss cross pattern. Then I cut out the main sail and cut out several strips of the criss cross pieces.

 

I took the left over water glue mixture and poured it into a small jar and then I laid one end of the strip in the solution grabbed it with tweezers and while pulling the soaked end up and out I pushed in the tailing end into the container. I continued to pull it through the mixture letting it slide along the inside edge of the container which acted as a sort of scraper or drain pulling some of the liquid off the strip so it wasn't completely soaked. I had previously tried to run it through my fingers but that ended up pulling too much off and it didn't hold after lying it in place.

 

This is the whole thing done and the outside edges folded over and glued in place. The entire thing was then ironed again, which helped hold the edges in place.

I did a couple of test runs on scrap before doing this on the sail. I taped it up and painted the red stripes. I was very careful to take the back of my tweezers at the handle and press down on the tape sealing the gaps around the strips so the paint didn't spread where I didn't want it. Also after seeing some other build threads here and seeing my own practice runs I decided I needed to paint both sides of the sail. The Vikings would have sewn together red cloth with white cloth, they wouldn't have used paint so both sides would essentially looked the same. So I tried to replicate that, and besides the paint soaks through just enough to make the back side look not all that nice in my opinion. 

 

Front side.

Back side taped up but without paint yet, here you can see how it soaks through. I also didn't yet remove the tape from the front, I used it and what was visible through the sail as guides for applying the paint on the back side.

Finally the completed paint job, front side.

Back side.

This is where the ship sits now. I need to sew the bolt rope around the sail and make the clews in the corners. I need to shape the yard, make the parrel, do all the rigging, and make the oars. I intend on attaching the sail to the yard before attaching to the mast so I need to wait until that is done before attaching the standing rigging. I intend to let the yard and parrel sit down on the deck and not hang on the mast until after the standing rigging is in place. But I need to slide it over the top of the mast, so standing rigging must wait for now. 

 

I plan to park it in front of the TV tomorrow and watch a movie I've seen already so I don't have to focus too much, while I sew the bolt rope and clews on. I will update once I have some more done, it shouldn't be too long, I expect to have the rigging done in the next couple days or so. The oars I'm not sure when they'll get done, but they will.

 

Fortunately, I'm a teacher and this is summer break so I have a lot of time to work on ships right now. I'm hoping to have my next model well on the way before summer is over and the next year begins.

 

[Snow]

Hi Matt 

Great  workmanship  I'm  also working  on  the  same ship 

I'm followingyour  building  as I'm up to the same part 

Cheers snowy 

[Snow]

Hi snowy again 

These were my ideas for the sheilds  

Keep  well and happy modelling 

Cheers snowy 

[Matt H]

Thank you for the kind words Snowy.

 

Those are excellent shields. I debated whether to do designs on them or not. I really like the variety and various colors. I have read that despite some portrayals the Vikings really did like color and incorporated it into their day to day lives and homes, so it is expected that they likely did in their ships as well.

[Louie da fly]

Very nice work, Matt. Everything you always wanted to know about the designs on Viking shields (and many other things) is at http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/shield/shield.html

 

Steven

[Matt H]

Well sewing the bolt rope and clews took a bit longer than I expected, all total about 3 hours. Then another hour and a half or so sewing the 4 small sections on the sides and the 4 smaller diameter ropes to those sections. Sorry, I don't know what you'd call those pieces of rope sewed onto bolt rope on the sides of the sail. The instructions don't actually mention these at all, you just have to follow the plans.

 

I also finished tapering the yard, installing the parrel, halyard, and blocks to the yard. 

 

I have tested the fit of the parrel and the functionality of raising and lowering the yard on the mast. Next I will attach the sail to the yard install it over the mast and begin the standing rigging while the yard and sail sit at the bottom of the mast on the deck. Once the standing rigging is in place I will raise the yard and begin the running rigging.

 

 

[Matt H]

Text update only, I will upload pictures of the completed model after I finish the rigging. I have completed the rigging for the mast stay. This was the first time using cleats and it was neat being able to tie them up just like you would on an actual boat and they stay in place, I didn't have to glue it down, we'll see if it stays that way for the long term, I may have to glue the tail down behind the cleat but the wrapping around it stays just fine.

 

I have created and hung the port side shrouds. I have attached the 4 dead eyes to the hull for both the port and starboard shrouds. I have also pulled the sail up to it's proper position and tied off the halyard to the cleat, then formed a coil with the remaining rope and hung it on the top of the cleat. I did attach the figure head and wrap the bow with rope under the figurehead. All deck furniture is made and ready to be placed down. I have also attached what I like to call "God hands" to the walnut base board I made. I found these really neat aged bronze fists as ship pedestals. I figured the Vikings believed in many Gods so I thought it fitting that I found these "God hands/fists" to hold the Viking ship up.

 

That's where I am at now. Need to make up and hang the starboard shrouds then tighten all shrouds down to their respective dead eyes then on to the running rigging. I still have yet to make the oars, I have cut the dowels down to the correct sizes. I will likely make these up down the road as my next build is at a stage waiting for glue to dry. Should only be another day or two before I'm done with the rigging and will update with many more photos of the above details and the full ship.

[Balclutha75]

Matt,

 

Thanks much for this build log. I am just starting this as my first ever kit, so every step of the way is something brand new. I’m currently in the afraid to apply glue for the first time stage. 

 

On other MSW logs of this kit some folks have said the bulkheads were snug and others were loose. Mine are the latter, very loose fitting so I’m coming up with a plan to try to keep them square.

 

I like the detail work you did on your shields. You too, snowy. And I’ll check out Steven’s link. 
 

How did you blacken your nails? Something like Birchwood Casey Brass Black?

 

Thanks,

Nelson

 

 

[Matt H]

1 hour ago, Balclutha75 said:

Matt,

 

Thanks much for this build log. I am just starting this as my first ever kit, so every step of the way is something brand new. I’m currently in the afraid to apply glue for the first time stage. 

 

On other MSW logs of this kit some folks have said the bulkheads were snug and others were loose. Mine are the latter, very loose fitting so I’m coming up with a plan to try to keep them square.

 

I like the detail work you did on your shields. You too, snowy. And I’ll check out Steven’s link. 
 

How did you blacken your nails? Something like Birchwood Casey Brass Black?

 

Thanks,

Nelson

 

 

I use Lego's for keeping the bulkhead square, I use the 2x4 Lego pieces. You know they are square and easily accessible so they work great. Sometimes I can't use a Lego on each side directly across from one another because my clamp doesn't open up large enough. So if you look down at the keel and bulkheads from above and it looks like a cross with 4 quadrants. I put one say in the top left and on in the bottom right and a clamp in front and behind the bulkhead. In ship terms I would put one forward of the bulkhead and say on the starboard side, the other would go aft of the bulkhead and on the port side. Rather than both forward or both aft then where my clamp can't open enough. Hopefully that explanation isn't too weird.

 

As to the nails I used Novacan Black Patina for Solder. They sell it on Amazon and they sell a three pack for a variety of metals. I bought that, but so far I have found the regular one I named here has worked best. The image I posted with the nails, I poored just a little of the solution in one of the round compartments above. Then dropped some nails in for a few seconds, stirred them around, then dropped them in the larger spaces where they sit in the image. I have since seen a suggestion from someone to have a water rinse available. I didn't but will in the future. I just let them dry and then dabbed the remaining liquid off with a paper towel once all the nails were done.

[Balclutha75]

Thanks Matt, much appreciated and everything made sense. I don't have Legos but have some small square wood blocks that could work. Hopefully I don't glue them in place. I have the similar clamp issue, which could be an excuse to buy a clamp that works!

 

Look forward to seeing the rest of your build.

 

Nelson

[Matt H]

1 minute ago, Balclutha75 said:

Look forward to seeing the rest of your build.

 

Nelson

I have most of the rigging done. Not sure what it is called, but I have the 4 short sections of rope tied on the sides of the sail to rig up. And of course the oars, but as I mentioned earlier, I'll get those done eventually, they will be in the stored position anyway since the sail is out. Should have photos up late tonight or tomorrow.

 

Thanks

 

Matt

[Snow]

Hey mate how is she going 

Cheers  snowy 

[Matt H]

Sorry for the delay in getting an update. I have been busy with other things. She is finished, with the exception of the oars and the two swinging booms. I will get around to making up the oars eventually, but with the sail down they would have been stored any way. So here she is.

 

Starting with some deck and other details and finally with the whole thing.

[Matt H]

In the background you will see my next ship I am beginning. I built a frame to hold up the various prints. I got the idea for this from this post from Kevin53. I modified mine a bit to make it slightly wider and taller to accommodate the larger prints. Mine is in the photo below.

 

 

 

[Balclutha75]

On 7/15/2020 at 7:41 PM, Matt H said:

She is finished

Looks nice! If mine comes out half as good I’ll be happy. 

[Matt H]

6 minutes ago, Balclutha75 said:

Looks nice! If mine comes out half as good I’ll be happy. 

Thank you very much, I appreciate the compliment. If you have any questions on yours along the way don't hesitate to ask, and enjoy the build.

[Balclutha75]

On 7/17/2020 at 4:01 PM, Matt H said:

If you have any questions on yours along the way don't hesitate to ask, and enjoy the build

Thanks much Matt. I started a build log and can post questions there, but appreciate it. Good luck on your next project. 

[Louie da fly]

Very nice work. You can be justly proud of her.

[Matt H]

1 minute ago, Louie da fly said:

Very nice work. You can be justly proud of her.

Thank you very much. I am quite proud of her and I think she was an excellent 2nd model and I think I'm finally ready to move on to something bigger and with more masts and rigging. My next one is already on the table, plans hung up, and ready to go. HM Bomb Vessel Granado is in the shipyard.

[GrandpaPhil]

Congratulations!  Well done!

[HardeeHarHar]

Well done job indeed, and keep up the good work.  I'm building Granado at the present too!

[rvchima]

Hi Matt,

 

Congratulations on a beautiful model! Did you really complete it in less than 2 months, or was that just when you posted to your log?

 

I am building the Billings Osberg kit and your log has been a big help to me. I have really been puzzling over the attachment of the rudder. Everything I've seen shows a leather strap around the top, which would allow the rudder to turn, but a pin through the blade and hull which would prevent it from turning. You used a rope between the blade and hull, which makes sense. Did the Amati instructions show that or did you find another reference? Many thanks.

 

Rod

[Matt H]

17 hours ago, rvchima said:

Hi Matt,

 

Congratulations on a beautiful model! Did you really complete it in less than 2 months, or was that just when you posted to your log?

 

I am building the Billings Osberg kit and your log has been a big help to me. I have really been puzzling over the attachment of the rudder. Everything I've seen shows a leather strap around the top, which would allow the rudder to turn, but a pin through the blade and hull which would prevent it from turning. You used a rope between the blade and hull, which makes sense. Did the Amati instructions show that or did you find another reference? Many thanks.

 

Rod

Thank you very much, yes I did complete it in the time presented here in the build. Probably a bit shorter because it took a couple 2 or 3 weeks to get the final post and images uploaded. I am a teacher and so I had a lot of time at home after we closed down in March for Covid-19. In normal circumstances I would not have been able to get as much done so quickly.

 

The Amati instructions are for what you see in my image in post #6 using the rope. The only modification I made was on the top of the rudder where the rope is wrapped around the rudder. The instructions were not clear on how to attach the rope on the top of that wrapping.

 

So I drilled a hole through the rudder twice, once below the wrap where you can see the rope wrap go through the rudder and through the ship plank and another at the top of the wrap where it is just knotted behind the rudder where you can't see it. So I started the rope wrap at the top, knotted one end to keep it from going through with the knot positioned in the back of the rudder towards the plank where it is not visible. Then I wrapped it around and ran it through the bottom hole drilled through the rudder and through the plank and knotted on the back side of the plank.

 

The lower attachment point is also rope that is knotted through the rudder where the blade is attached to the rudder in the front side where it is visible and it goes through that small button cap looking piece and through the plank and into the ship. It is under the deck planking and I did not think of it before I finished the deck so I attached a small wire shaped into an inverted V that when pressed through the hole would open up and prevent the rope from being pulled out since I could not knot it behind the plank due to the decking. 

 

The final small rope I believe is more for positioning and keeping the rudder in line with the ship and not drifting outwards to the waterway or inwards up against the ship. It too is just rope with knots on both ends.

 

Hopefully that helps clear things up. I did not do any research into Viking ships, I relied on the Amati instructions. I did a bit of research into the paint colors of the shields and ultimately decided to go with colors I liked rather than the typical red, yellow, or black. I did try to keep the colors more natural looking as if they were able to make/find pigments in similar colors. I also did have to use a website to translate Italian to English because the prints were only in Italian for Amati. I also had a picture encyclopedia book for ships and used that to reference parts of the viking ship I was not familiar with. Otherwise all my info came from the provided instructions.

[rvchima]

Matt,

 

Thank you for the information about attaching the rudder. After a lot of searching online I found this photo of the rudder for the Ottar Viking ship replica in Roskilde, Denmark. It looks like you got the attachment right.

 

I just attached my rudder and ran into the same problem that you did - once the deck is planked there is no way to attach the rudder pivot rope inside. I simply folded the rope in half, pushed it into the pivot button, and put a small nail through the button from the side to catch the rope.

 

The third small line on your rudder would be for raising the rudder in shallow water or when beaching the ship. After removing the upper rope (leather band on the Ottar) and steering handle the rudder could be pivoted upwards.

 

You made the right choice with the Amati kit. The Billings kit is 1:25 scale and is just too big. It's going to take up a lot of space in my house, and it doesn't have that much interesting detail for such a large model. Thanks again for the help.

 

Rod