Pegasus by hdrinker - 1:48 - POF - Swan practicum

[Pirate adam]

Looks amazing!

 

Adam

[hdrinker]

Third go at Perseus. Each one a little better than the last. 

[hdrinker]

The stern complete. The wing!! Not broken yet.

[hdrinker]

The swivel guns took about a month. After I mounted those on the quarter deck, I realized I was one short for the fore deck! Been counting constantly, just to make sure they were all there. So, of course, one is missing. Looked everywhere. Anyway, making one more shouldn’t be a major deal. Just beating my head!! Also, one of my LED leads broke off where it exits on the bottom of the keel. No slack. Oh well. I might cut a section out of the keel to retrieve the end of that lead. Haven’t decided.

Henry

[hdrinker]

Remaining swivel guns, rails, safety ropes. Deadeyes and stern light next. Can someone tell me what the large beam mounted across the foredeck and protruding well off the starboard side was for?

Henry

[druxey]

Are you referring to the fish davit? It can be mounted port or starboard as required. See TFFM, 12.7 to 12.9.

[hdrinker]

Yes. Overlooked the section in vol 2. What does it mean when my blackened pieces, even after 2  drippings in Birchwood Casey Brass Black, when dried, leave spots of copper looking metal when gently rubbed?????

Henry

[hdrinker]

It’s like the patina rubs off. I’ve tried cleaning again with Acetone and dipping a third time, but that doesn’t seem to really solve the problem., Any thoughts?

[Kevin Kenny]

Hi Henry

i use Jax pewter black and had the same issue as I applied it full strength. Then someone commented that I needed to dilute it with 50% water and it retained the blackness much better. It never made sense to me but it worked better when diluted . Having said that I just took them out and they are no longer as black as I remember so hopefully some experienced person will respond. 

[dvm27]

I use a 1:5 dilution. None of my blackened fittings have faded over time and I don't get the flaking and uneven coatings I used to get when I used stronger solutions. I can't stress enough that the fitting needs to be spotlessly clean and free from oils so I wear disposable gloves. I do suspect that some of the results depend on the specific type of brass you are using. Being an alloy, perhaps the proportions of copper and zinc vary based on the type of brass. I do note that since I have been using Sparex before etching my results are much more consistent.

 

I've never used Pewter black for brass Kenny. I've always used brass black. Not sure what the difference is though.

[druxey]

Different chemicals are involved for blackening pewter than for brass/copper.  For pewter selenious acid, for copper or brass one of several sulphur compounds.

 

Diluting the solution slows the chemical reaction and produces a thinner and more stable surface layer.

[hdrinker]

Thanks for that discussion. I will try Sparex after soldering before blackening and cut the Brass Black with water at 1:5 and report. Is the Sparex suitable for degreasing such that the pickled piece can go directly into the blackening solution, or is it best to rinse with water or acetone first?

HD

[druxey]

I usually dip the parts in water after Sparex before blackening. You don't want to contaminate the blackening agent! (Acetone shouldnot be necessary unless you touch the parts between steps in processing.)

[tlevine]

I use warm Sparex prior to blackening.  I typically let it soak for 5-10 minutes and then dip the part in water before blackening.  Keep in mind that you need to use copper or wood tongs to remove the parts from the Sparex.  

[dvm27]

They sell mini crock pots on Walmart.  Plug it in and wait until hot and do as Tony says. You can unplug the crock pot when finished and keep the solution covered. It lasts for months.

[druxey]

I simply use a coffee mug warmer as not a large container is needed for model parts.

[Kevin Kenny]

5:1 Maybe thats my issue GREG as i only diluted mine 1:1. Never got good results. Someone recommended these products to me, i cant remember who. Both bottles say they will blacken brass but no instruction on the label on how to apply the solution or any suggested dilution rate. In terms of heating i use a baby bottle warmer for cleaning brass. It took a while to get Pyrex cups as all my drinking glasses kept breaking. The Pyrex works great.
kevin

[Kevin Kenny]

Is this what you use Greg?

kevin

[tlevine]

It is what I use.

[hdrinker]

I have started using Sparex, rinsing in water and then putting the pieces in a 5:1 (approx) of Birchwood Casey Brass Black. It does seem to work better. Much appreciate the tips. 
While I await a new delivery of .032 “ brass rod to complete the starboard site chains, I’ve experimented with making a pattern in wood for the stern lantern. Making a hexagonal rod in 1:48 has proven a challenge so far. I tried my mini tilting arbor table saw with the blade angled 60 degrees, but had trouble securing the work against the fence once the fence surface became smaller. Then tried my milling machine (Sherline) with a tilting clamp. That should work, but am having a time getting the bit centered on the stock properly. I think I could use some advise from Greg.

Henry

[Kevin Kenny]

Just received the Black brass at my daughter in NY but won’t get it till Christmas 

[tlevine]

Like your taste in moral support.  I would suggest going low tech...  Hold the material in your hand and shape it with a file.

[hdrinker]

That’s what I ended up doing, Toni. Worked fine and was quick! 
Henry

[hdrinker]

I glued the pieces to a wooden mandrel and when finished ate away the mandrel with my Turbo Carver. 😊

[hdrinker]

Sparex - H2O rinse- Brass Black- H2O rinse definitely produced superior results.

Stern lantern complete.

[hdrinker]

Lower deadeyes, chains, billboards, bolsters and linings in. I’m leaning towards rigging the build. In reviewing the plans for the bowsprit, I noticed that the various diameters as specified in the plans differ from those in the text, vol II, ch. 11.27. As I seem to do with some regularity, I’m likely missing an obvious explanation. But perhaps Greg or someone could explain it. 

[hdrinker]

Fish favor, bookings.

On 11/5/2024 at 7:04 AM, druxey said:

I usually dip the parts in water after Sparex before blackening. You don't want to contaminate the blackening agent! (Acetone shouldnot be necessary unless you touch the parts between steps in processing.)

 

[hdrinker]

Always proof!! Fish davits, boomkins 

[hdrinker]

Pegasus!!

[hdrinker]

On 2/26/2022 at 3:29 PM, hdrinker said:

My narrative didn’t come through. Your’e likely wondering why I would post pictures of such a poor job of deck framing…It demonstrates how one can’t be too attentive to symmetry. Even with a framing plan taken from the book and drawn to the particular dimensions of my build, and what I thought was careful measurements, the drift of port carlings to starboard in the beginning accumulated significantly before I recognized it (see top photo). Rather than start over, since the framing will be hidden, I elected to make an abrupt correction with the few remaining beams. Not a pretty result. But a lesson learned, as noted by Kevin previously. Turning the whole model/building board on a bench with limited space in order to sight fore to aft is difficult, but now I see the need to do so frequently.