CPDDET Posted August 1, 2020 Share #31 Posted August 1, 2020 Multiple light coats are always better than one heavy one. thibaultron, bruce d and mtaylor 3 Quote Current build: NRG Half Hull Previous build: MS Bluenose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Posted November 28, 2020 Share #32 Posted November 28, 2020 Stephen: I'm just starting Bluenose II- the "simulation" discussion has been very helpful. Any idea on how to bend the deck timbers around the deck edges? I'm considering, and tried with paper mockup, notching the timbers in two places. Regards, King Canute 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory Posted November 28, 2020 Share #33 Posted November 28, 2020 (edited) 40 minutes ago, King said: Any idea on how to bend the deck timbers around the deck edges? Chuck's bending techniques for hull planking should work as well.. Additional info HERE Edited November 28, 2020 by Gregory Canute, shipman and mtaylor 3 Quote “Indecision may or may not be my problem.” ― Jimmy Buffett Current builds: Rattlesnake On Hold: HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett ) In the Gallery: Yacht Mary, Gretel, French Cannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Idea Posted November 28, 2020 Share #34 Posted November 28, 2020 I use a chisel tipped marker that is filled with archival ink. You can get them on the internet and the ink doesn't bleed. It makes the job so much easier. mtaylor, Bob Cleek and Canute 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce d Posted November 28, 2020 Share #35 Posted November 28, 2020 20 minutes ago, No Idea said: ... archival ink. ... and the ink doesn't bleed. Sounds good, news to me. It really doesn't bleed on wood? Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote 🌻 STAY SAFE A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin current builds: HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Idea Posted November 28, 2020 Share #36 Posted November 28, 2020 3 minutes ago, bruce d said: Sounds good, news to me. It really doesn't bleed on wood? Hi Bruce - I've just taken this picture of my current build. Its pear wood planking with archival ink for the tarring. I've also experimented with boxwood and I had no bleeding with that either. I would suggest getting a pen and doing some trials first but I've never had it bleed mtaylor, oneslim, shipman and 2 others 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce d Posted November 28, 2020 Share #37 Posted November 28, 2020 Very pretty work, I will google it now. Thanks! No Idea and mtaylor 2 Quote 🌻 STAY SAFE A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin current builds: HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Idea Posted November 28, 2020 Share #38 Posted November 28, 2020 23 minutes ago, bruce d said: Very pretty work, I will google it now. Thanks! Cheers Bruce - This is what I use here's a pack of 3 for £7.99 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sakura-Pigma-Graphic-Pigment-Calligraphy/dp/B01M24ONH8/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=3mm+chisel+tip+archival+ink+pen&qid=1606586152&sr=8-16 Have a play first but I have found that my best results are by using it on both planks that meet. Good luck! Canute, bruce d and mtaylor 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipman Posted November 28, 2020 Share #39 Posted November 28, 2020 Just a thought.......if you're worried about pencil graphite smudging. Alight pass with a soft eraser may help. One of the first items we were asked to provide in our first tech drawing class was fresh home made white bread, kneaded into a ball. Turned out to be the best eraser of all. mtaylor, Canute and bruce d 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce d Posted November 28, 2020 Share #40 Posted November 28, 2020 3 hours ago, No Idea said: This is what I use Ordered. Many thanks, I thought I knew a few things about pens but I never once found a pen that didn't bleed into wood to some degree. I just had a baaaaaad experience with my first laser-cut small boat kit. I used a pen to pre-colour some very thin ply that made the formers for a ships boat. Guess what? The ply started to delaminate. I look forward to some experiments. mtaylor and No Idea 2 Quote 🌻 STAY SAFE A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin current builds: HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cleek Posted November 28, 2020 Share #41 Posted November 28, 2020 46 minutes ago, SpyGlass said: I usually cheat - faintest touch of pencil on one edge then just open the joints up with a thin metal strip ( feeler gauge) and let the varnish fill the crack. Yes, a very light stain rubbed across the plank seams will end up in the seams and show darker. If you want light colored decks, seal the decks with a clear sealer, then apply the stain and rub it all off the sealed deck, leaving the stain in the deck seams. When it comes to deck seams, the thinner they are, the better. At scale viewing distance, there isn't much to them. bruce d, Estoy_Listo, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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