Cutty Sark by Bruma - Revell - 1:96 - PLASTIC

[Sailor1234567890]

Excellent resource there. Thanks for posting it. I look forward to reading through all those volumes.

[Cirdan]

5 hours ago, kirill4 said:

Dear Cirdan,

Thank You very much!!!

 

 

Dear Kirill,

Thank you for bringing these volumes back to my mind!

[Cirdan]

Dear Kirill,

many years ago I discovered a superb model of Cutty Sark in scale 1:100 by a russian modeler (Mikhail Maltsev), who died and left his model unfinished:

 

http://forum.modelsworld.ru/post172874.html#p172874

 

Do you know what happened to the model? Was it finished by another modeller? Are there any pictures in the net?

 

Dear Marco, sorry for misusing your build log for this kind of research. But who knows better about a russian model than a russian modeller.

Edited February 10, 2021 by Cirdan
mistake

[Cirdan]

Sorry, the link to the model no longer works after one day. It appears only the Forum website. I take the risk of posting a few saved images and hope that this will not be seen as a copyright infringement in this case. If an administrator does not agree, please delete the images or the post.

 

 

 

 

 

[kirill4]

Good day,

Hello, I saw this report many years ago, but the level of performance exceeded my abilities so much that I did not really care about the fate of this model, unfortunately I do not know what happened to the model after the death of the author ... by the way, recently the ideological inspirer of this site A. Dobrenko left us too ... but I'll try to ask, can anyone know anything about the further fate of this model?

[Cirdan]

Thank you Kirill! I very much wish to see this model finished. But even unfinished it is a great model. Sad to hear that Mr. Dobrenko also passed away. He was a very active man in the forum.

[shipman]

Thanks for the pics of the late Mr Maltsev model. Very impressive.

 

The Russian 'Modelsworld'.......Firefox doesn't seem to have a translation function. The site does have a Union flag 'button', but provides no English text.

[Cirdan]

Hi shipman,

sometimes (just now) the link works and leads me directly to the model. I don't know why.

[shipman]

Hi Cirdan.

Just followed your advice and got the photo's of the Maltsev model.

Lovely work on the mast structures, especially the riveting!

Interesting detail:- the inside of the bulwarks are painted black......and it looks ok.

The boarding ladder looks to be far too long? Still, a feature not always depicted. I wonder where it was stored when not in use?

Was this a scratch build? I'm so impressed with it. Shame it never got to completion, it would be one of the very best.

[Cirdan]

On 2/12/2021 at 5:31 PM, shipman said:

Was this a scratch build?

 

Yes. I think Mr Maltsev only built scratch models. I'm also impresssed with the gilded carvings at the bow and the stern, especially as it is done in scale 1:100.

[shipman]

Anyone got suggestions as to the function of the long brown 'pole' just under CUTTY SARK name plate at the bow?

[Jim Lad]

Is that a 'pole' or a brown painted decorative moulding?

 

John

[Bruma]

1 hour ago, shipman said:

Anyone got suggestions as to the function of the long brown 'pole' just under CUTTY SARK name plate

I'm sure I know the reason: they were completely useless for the real ship, but they have installed that poles just to drive me crazy while trying to rig the bowsprit! I spent countless hours in that area... 

 

3 hours ago, Cirdan said:

especially as it is done in scale 1:100.

Ok, now that I know he was working at almost the same scale I'm working, I'm officially sad. 

There was a time when I was almost proud of my Cutty Sark, a time which is now gone!

Joking aside, it is a really nice model, thank you for sharing! 

Edited February 13, 2021 by Bruma
Typo

[shipman]

John, as the son goes.....'I've looked at it from all sides now....'

Definitely a long bent 'pole'.

Initially I thought it may be a boom of some sort, stored there, but closer inspection shows it to be permanently fixed.

[Bruma]

Hello everyone! 

I would like to share some more updates about my humble attempt.

 

Fore yard. 

 

The yards proposed by Revell are one of the weakest points of the entire kit. They are overly simplified, so that it is almost impossible  to fully rig them in the proper way. Moreover, they present features which are completely wrong, such as the sheave at the yard end, which are centered and not set aside and incredibly bulky. To make matters worse, the plastic is quite soft, and they are prone to bending when force is applied. 

So I decided to scratch build them. 

This is an entirely new field for me, I have never worked with wood and metal in model making. 

The first big issue is to find a reliable source. Again, Campbell and Longridge show slightly different solutions.

I ended up making my own decision based also on my personal taste. For instance, Longridge presents metal bandages on the entire length, which seem to be absent in Campbell’s plans. I like them and I have modelled them (dumb choice: it takes hours to made them…). Other features, such as the upper topsail sheets, are not present in the Longridge version but clearly visible in Campbell’s plans (and described by Underhill) and I decided to include them. 

After a long study session, I started to model the fore lower yard. 

The starting point is a cylindrical wooden bar, tapered at each end using sandpaper and a hand drill. At the end of the process the shape was quite right and, more important, I still have all my fingers in place. Dimensions are taken from the scaled Campbell’s plans. 

Then I started the metal work. The first feature was the cantilever mechanism at the yard’s center. Here I made some compromise in order to have a stronger joint between the mast and the yard. Still I tried to get the overall shape right. This is the result:

 

With the first milestone achieved, I have started to reproduce the metal bandages. Numbers, positions and thicknesses are taken by Longridge plans. 

Next comes the jackstay. I drilled small holes on each band and fitted them with a hand made small eyebolt, the smallest of the entire build. Then, the jackstay bar is passed through them. They are made out of spring steel, 0.4 millimeters in diameter. 

Then, it’s time for the sheaves of the chain sheets. The rollers are made of plastic, while the central bar and the external cage are in metal. The  central bar is glued in place inside a predrilled hole in the spar in order to make it stronger. 

The lower yard is also fitted with studding sails boom and relatives supports. 

They are made of brass wire and small copper bands

The last features are the eyebolts for lifts, braces and blocks. Last but not least, the metal fairleads for the chain sheets. 

Here you can see details and a global view of the yard before the painting job. 

 

 

The entire process takes a lot of time, and here we are just half way: still need to paint and weather it, and fit all the blocks (wooden and metal ones). 

 

I hope you like it!

Edited February 15, 2021 by Bruma
Trying to improve my bad English...

[kirill4]

CLASS!!!:)

Questions,

Why there are so much bandages?

Ah, I see - because of Longridge plans...

Campbell’s gives much less

and H.Underhill  also less...

Strange , why Longridge gives so much?hau masting and rigging clipper ship 17.pdf

 

Edited February 15, 2021 by kirill4

[Cirdan]

Wow! Excellent work! Did you sand the yards without the help of an electrical device? Only by hand drill?

[Bruma]

56 minutes ago, Cirdan said:

Only by hand drill?

No, I'm sorry Cirdan, it's my fault. I mean an electrical drill handled by hands, not fixed to a vise such as a press drill. Life is hard enough! 🤪

1 hour ago, kirill4 said:

Ah, I see - because of Longridge plans...

Yes, that's why. Without clear evidences, I have chosen the one I like the most.

I have never seen the drawing you have posted, may I ask you the source?

It is not from Hunderhill, neither from Longridge... It's new to me.

 Thank you!

[kirill4]

Good day Bruma,

This picture is from Campbell’s book "China Tea Clippers"

I found it some years ago in free internet/ but saved only pictures without texts, nowaday only text available but I don't see drwngs for download anymore  

content://0@media/external/file/10058

 

 

[kirill4]

If You need You could find that drwngs here for private use

there are drwngs of different quality most of them repeated each others...they need to be sorted out ...https://cloud.mail.ru/public/ZSsK/2DNc9aXa3

 

Edited February 15, 2021 by kirill4

[Cirdan]

5 hours ago, Bruma said:

No, I'm sorry Cirdan, it's my fault. I mean an electrical drill handled by hands, not fixed to a vise such as a press drill. Life is hard enough!

 

But even then it's an excellent job 👍👍

[Sailor1234567890]

Or buy his book. I have a copy and it has all those drawings in it. 

[kirill4]

Found some good quality drwngs

http://forums.airbase.ru/2019/08/t102137_17--chertezhi-parusnykh-korablej-6.html#p8026097

Post 08.11.2019 12:34

Left them here 

https://cloud.mail.ru/public/BPpQ/wHjjVFTtz

Edited February 18, 2021 by kirill4

[kirill4]

On 2/16/2021 at 8:08 PM, Sailor1234567890 said:

Or buy his book. I have a copy and it has all those drawings in it. 

YES, I've found copies of this book available for resonable prices

https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/SearchResults?an=Campbell&bi=0&bx=off&cm_sp=SearchF-_-Advtab1-_-Results&ds=30&recentlyadded=all&sortby=17&sts=t&tn=China Tea Clipper

 

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Hello Bruma, youre doing magic with yards. amazing. Id like to aks you for an advice. I started to assemble my revell kit, but i am terrible with paints. I have email paint for hull plates. but i can paint only by hand. is it better to dillute it and put on more coats please? i dont want to ruin with thick terrible mess. Thanks a milion Vlad. i see they dont have copper in spray unfortunately. 

[Bruma]

Hello Vladimir, 

thank you for your kind comment! 

I have almost no experience with enamel paint (I guess it was a typing error with "email paint", damn automatic corrector:) ).

I prefer to use acrylic colors and spray them with the airbrush. I usually use the standard brush only to highlight details with dry brush or recesses with wash and filters. For that purpose I usually use oil paints. 

Anyway, the base coat of Munz metal on my Cutty has been done by brush, due to a temporary problem with my airbrush. And the color was not diluted. 

There are two coats of color and the result is a uniform copper-goldish tint. 

The non uniformity visible now is created by oil washes, mixing green and blue in different percentages to break the uniformity. 

Please bear in mind that the enamel thinner used for the oil wash will wash away the enamel color below! This is another good reason for having an acrylic base coat and not an enamel one. 

Please let me know if I can help you with further details! 

And, by the way, is there a build log of your plastic Cutty Sark? I'll be glad to follow you! 

 

Update time! 

 

Fore yards progress:

 

Encouraged by the first test on the lower yard, I have adopted the same techniques for all the remaining fore yards.  

Here you can see the result:

 

 

 

 

 

The lower yard is already painted and fitted with blocks. Still a lot of work needs to be done, but they are starting to take shape! 

Please note that there is an error on the upper topsail yard: the jackstay is too short. I already fix the issue, but it is still there in these pictures. 

 

Thank you all for the comments and likes! 

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

4 hours ago, Bruma said:

Hello Vladimir, 

thank you for your kind comment! 

I have almost no experience with enamel paint (I guess it was a typing error with "email paint", damn automatic corrector:) ).

I prefer to use acrylic colors and spray them with the airbrush. I usually use the standard brush only to highlight details with dry brush or recesses with wash and filters. For that purpose I usually use oil paints. 

Anyway, the base coat of Munz metal on my Cutty has been done by brush, due to a temporary problem with my airbrush. And the color was not diluted. 

There are two coats of color and the result is a uniform copper-goldish tint. 

The non uniformity visible now is created by oil washes, mixing green and blue in different percentages to break the uniformity. 

Please bear in mind that the enamel thinner used for the oil wash will wash away the enamel color below! This is another good reason for having an acrylic base coat and not an enamel one. 

Please let me know if I can help you with further details! 

And, by the way, is there a build log of your plastic Cutty Sark? I'll be glad to follow you! 

 

Update time! 

 

Fore yards progress:

 

Encouraged by the first test on the lower yard, I have adopted the same techniques for all the remaining fore yards.  

Here you can see the result:

 

 

 

 

 

The lower yard is already painted and fitted with blocks. Still a lot of work needs to be done, but they are starting to take shape! 

Please note that there is an error on the upper topsail yard: the jackstay is too short. I already fix the issue, but it is still there in these pictures. 

 

Thank you all for the comments and likes! 

Thanks for reply Bruma, I will try enamel than as I have original. well well, I will open window for her , despite it is only 2 weekends project i think. Looking at your yards I am impressed . l see you ditched plastic ones, are those way too fragile? Can I ask how did you make those rings ? presumably soldering. very nice. V.

[Bruma]

On 2/25/2021 at 6:03 PM, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

l see you ditched plastic ones, are those way too fragile?

Yes, I stated my motivation in one of the above post, I copy and paste it here:

 

They are overly simplified, so that it is almost impossible  to fully rig them in the proper way. Moreover, they present features which are completely wrong, such as the sheave at the yard end, which are centered and not set aside and incredibly bulky. To make matters worse, the plastic is quite soft, and they are prone to bending when force is applied. 

So I decided to scratch build them. 

 

That being said, you can use the plastic ones, it all depends on what you want to achieve and how much time you want to dedicate. 

For me it has been a great satisfaction to build my own yards and I have learned a lot!

 

On 2/25/2021 at 6:03 PM, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

Can I ask how did you make those rings

Do you mean the ring band on the yards? If so, they are stripes of copper trimmed properly, bent and glued to the yard. 

The rings for the studding sail booms are also made in the same way, but I soldered them to the supports. 

If you need more, write me, and I'll try to answer! 

Thank you for your comment!

Marco

 

 

Edited March 3, 2021 by Bruma
Typo

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

8 hours ago, Bruma said:

Yes, I stated my motivation in one of the above post, I copy and paste it here:

 

They are overly simplified, so that it is almost impossible  to fully rig them in the proper way. Moreover, they present features which are completely wrong, such as the sheave at the yard end, which are centered and not set aside and incredibly bulky. To make matters worse, the plastic is quite soft, and they are prone to bending when force is applied. 

So I decided to scratch build them. 

 

That being said, you can use the plastic ones, it all depends on what you want to achieve and how much time you want to dedicate. 

For me it has been a great satisfaction to build my own yards and I have learned a lot!

 

Do you mean the ring band on the yards? If so, they are stripes of copper trimmed properly, bent and glued to the yard. 

The rings for the studding sail booms are also made in the same way, but I soldered them to the supports. 

If you need moor, write me, and I'll try to answer! 

Thank you for your comment!

Marco

 

 

thanks for thorough explanation Marco, its great. i will post mine soon. Vlad 

[Bruma]

Sails! 

 

I have always had in mind to display my Cutty Sark under sails. 

A clipper with a full set of sails shaped by the wind is one of the most beautiful pictures I can think of. 

But when it comes to ship models, sails can easily ruin a fine job if not done properly. 

That’s why I set myself a number of targets when I started to make them. 

They should have been:

- light and thin;

- translucent;

- with no visible canvas texture, too small to be seen in 1/96 scale;

 - shaped by the wind, not standing still and flat from yards and stays;

- with visible creases near the clews and hanks;

- strong enough to withstand all the standing and running rigging tension, since I want to display them with all the lines needed.

 

After many tests with different materials and techniques, I opted for the modelspan.

 

And this is the result on the fore topmast staysail:

And here there are the jib and flying jib too:

 

 

 

 

 

 

All the sails are rigged with halliards, downhalls and relative lizards, sheets on both sides, one under tension (on the lee side) and the opposite slaked, and tacks.  

The bowsprit rigging is also completed, with footropes, metal covers for the rollers for the fore topmast stay.

There is surely room for improvements, but overall I’m not too disappointed, and I think I will keep on adding all the remaining 23 sails...

 

I hope you like them!