Fair American by KenW - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 Scale

[russ]

Ken:

The rails look great. You did nice job painting them.

 

Russ

[GaryKap]

Hi Ken -

More very nice work.  I like the way you did the gangway steps...very "finished" looking.  A suggestion - if you intend to use the kit figurehead, you might want to make sure it sits well at the head of the "beak" with some spacing between the top of the head and the bottom of the bowsprit.  If not, this would be a good time to do the fitting.

 

<<Gary>>

[KenW]

Thanks Russ and Gary. 

And thanks, Gary, for the warning about the fitting of the figurehead.  Fortunately, I already put in the dowel for the bowsprit along with the kit figurehead and made the adjustments so there is sufficient spacing. 

Cheers.

[riverboat]

Really nice build Ken. That's a great looking ship.

Frank

[EdatWycliffe]

Nice work, Ken. I really admire the planking. The build really looks good!

I just added the starboard fore channel--two to go. But, I've got to put my ship aside for a bit. The kids and grand kids are all visiting for a week or so. Happy holidays to all. Ed

[rafine]

That is some really nice looking work Ken.The paint job is absolutely first rate.

 

Bob

[Mirabell61]

The lower hull has been sanded and treenails drilled and filled with plastic wood.  So I am definitely not painting the hull.  Also, since I did a bad job on the rudder, I made a replacement out of spare wood from one of the pieces that contained the frames.  The new rudder is visible in the first photo.

 

Well done planking Ken,

 

your neat built model in all is looking wonderful

 

Nils

[wq3296]

Greetings Ken,

 

Good move adding the companionway. I just finished planking the quarterdeck and am about ready to install the railing. I think I am going to use walnut or some other hardwood for these rails. The planking above the wales, and black strake, are walnut and the railings will continue the look.   

 

wq3296

[KenW]

Thanks Frank, Ed, Bob, Nils and wq3296. 

I appreciate the encouraging words.

[KenW]

The timberheads, knightheads and catheads are installed.  I cut the heads of the timberhead/knightheads from the 1/8 inch square plank and then cut off at the proper length.  Working on the whole plank is much easier than cutting a small piece first and then trying to whittle the head.  The two knightheads are an odd shape, like a trapezoid.  For that I used a 3/16 inch square plank and cut off a 3 inch piece and used my sanding block get the trapezoid shape and then cut the head and sawed off at the proper length.  I thought that the catheads supplied by the kit were too small to drill those 4 holes, so I made two catheads from a 3/16 inch thick piece of scrap wood.  Each cathead was made in one piece, but if I do too much more of this kind of work I’m going to have to get a power scroll saw. 

[russ]

Ken:

The knightheads look good. Nice work. So long as they are anchored fairly well, they should stay put.

 

Russ

[KenW]

Thanks Russ.  I did pin them, so I can only hope for the best.

[russ]

If there is a pin in there, they will be much better than with just the glue. I try to pin or dowel as much as I can on small fittings like that. I think you good to go.

 

Russ

[KenW]

I came down with the flu virus that is going around here in NY.  Combine that with the coming holiday means that the ‘shipyard’ is pretty much inactive.  But I did draw, after many attempts, a scroll pattern for the bow.  After scanning and running it through my photo software, I glued the print between the cheek knees and like the result.

[aliluke]

Great work Ken. The scroll has just the right fineness. I like that you are using technology to achieve this. Worth more than a "Like This" but I've added that as well. Have happy holidays.

[KenW]

Thanks Alistair. 

[alde]

Great work on your FA. I have this kit in the closet along with the AVS and am trying to decide which one will be my second build. I am leaning AVS but your FA sure is a fine looking ship.

[KenW]

They are both good builds.  The AVS is probably the easier build. 

Your choice.

[BradS]

As everyone else has said "Looking real Good". I just my kit so I am way behind you on the build (haven't started a build log yet). Anyway I have an old question on the bearding line versus the blukheads, did you re-establish the bearding line to match the bulkheads? I thought I say this question somewhere before but can't find it or the answer. Thanks in advance.

 

Brad

[KenW]

Thanks and good to hear from you.
I know this is an old question, and I can only say that I re-established the bearding to line up with the bottom of the bulkheads.  However, if one bulkhead was out of alignment with the surrounding ones, I added a shim to the one that was "out of line".  The same applies to one that was a bit longer - I sanded it down to match.  I tried for a good line of bulkhead bottoms.

Don't know what others would say.

[BradS]

Thanks Ken

That is what I thought and way I am proceeding. Again thanks. Hope I do somewhere as close to good (with mine) as you have with yours. Again thanks.

Brad

[KenW]

I mounted the aft two guns and the ‘deck furniture’ between them.  Bob (rafine) used this method on his Fair American and I like the plan.  I get time off from rigging cannon, which I am finding very frustrating.  I am using 1/8 inch (4/32) blocks and .012 line.   I found I had to enlarge the holes in the blocks to get the line through the block’s hole.  And threading the blocks still required stiffening with CA glue.  I attached the breech lines to a gun first, then mounted it and secured the breech lines.  Next I strop the blocks using 28 gauge wire; the end of the strop wire forms the hook that attaches to an eye.  However, attaching the rigging to its gun is proving a problem.  I can’t get the first attached hook to stay in its eye while I try to attach the other.  If I do too much to the hook, it breaks off. 

Are there any tricks that I’m unaware of? 

 

[twintrow]

Ken

 

I rig both blocks, attach hooks to the eyebolts both ends, then insert the eyebolts into the bulkhead, then into the gun carriage.

Less stress all around.  Works for me.

 

Tom

Edited May 1, 2014 by twintrow

[russ]

I agree with Tom's method. Do all the rigging you can off the model.

 

Russ

[KenW]

Thanks Tom and Russ. 

I will have to try that method.  I have the eyebolts attached to the bulkhead/gun carriage first.  I'll let you know how it works out.

Thanks again.

[GaryKap]

Hi Ken - Thank you for posting this.  I am approaching this stage in my Fair American build, and will also need to deal with it one way or the other.  One alternative that I used on my Rattlesnake build was to strop the blocks with black thread and simply tie them to the eyebolts, because I was having the same problems with 28 gauge wire.  I'll probably get "dissed" for even suggesting this, but it doesn't look bad and preserves one's sanity.  As we said earlier, it depends on who you are building the model for...

 

One other thought.  Take a look at the sketch of the gun carriage rigging on page 21 of the instructions.  Seems to me that the outhaul tackle eyebolts are attached to the bulwarks on a wider spacing from the gunports than the breech line eyebolts.  It looks like you have both eyebolts close to the edge of the gunport.  For the model, a wider separation of the outhaul tackle eyebolts would provide more spacing between the blocks on each side of the carriage and might approve the appearance.  You have only done the two guns, so this would be an easy modification.  Maybe others can comment on this.

 

You are doing great work and I certainly appreciate your sharing it on this build log.  Keep it coming!

 

<<Gary>>

[KenW]

Thanks Gary.

I know I have the outhaul tackle eyebolts closer to the gun port and above the breech line eyebolts.  I did this based on what I saw happening on other models, including my last build.  I have no idea which is correct. 

I am also considering using thread to strop the blocks and either tying the eyebolts or seizing them to the strop. 

I am also interested in what others think.

Cheers.

[wq3296]

Greetings Ken,

 

Good work - she looks great. Question: The bulwarks on you model seem to be higher than what is shown on the kit drawings, which I am generally following. On my ship, the gun ports finish out to be about a 1/16" lower than the bottom of the top rail, and yours appear to be about 3/16". If this is so, was there a reason to make the bulwarks higher?

 

wq3296

[KenW]

Hi wq3296, good to hear from you.

I enlarged the gun ports to be 3/16 square.  This was done by several builders due to the size of the gun barrels that came with the kit.  As a result, I kept the 1/8 inch plank between the water way and the gun port, and added a 1/8 inch plank above the ports.  So the height of my bulwarks above the water way is 1/8 + 3/8 + 1/8.

I hope this answers your question.

[aliluke]

Hi Ken

I reckon there are some good points made above. You need more room - Space the tackle bolts wider at the port than the breeching ropes. The eye for the tackle hook should be further back and behind the breeching rope eye and ring on the carriage. I use extremely thin blackened jewellery wire for wrapping the blocks. It probably should be rope but it is very easy to use and manipulate. I find that does not break or bend when rigging if handled gently. Here is picture of my AVS cannon rig. 2.5mm blocks, 0.25mm tackle rope and 0.6mm breeching rope. My mistake here is the double block for the tackles at the bulwarks - have since learned that it should be a single. My coils are also too big and too long.