HMS Terror by DanielD - FINISHED - OcCre - Scale 1:75 - Second Build Started 10/4/2020

[DanielD]

7 hours ago, clearway said:

you could decide which is going to be the "viewed side" of the ship and make an access panel on the side not in view?

 

Keith

 

Keith, I thought about that, but at this time in my modeling career I'm not sure I could make a "perfect" seam that would look, well, invisible. I don't think it will be an issue at this point as the metal transmission I am using has double set screws which I will apply a drop of CA glue when I'm happy that all is working the way I want. But as always, thanks for the input.

 

A little more work to do at the stern, then I'll use some hot glue to secure all the wires and LED's. My last area of concern is the planking. Specifically, in my last model, the Golden Hind, my first layer of planking was not perfect and had small gaps in places. It seems to be something that plagues many builders. While it's not usually an issue with the second planking as that is what one ultimately sees. As you know the wood strips that make up the second planking are very thin. Now that I have lighting in the hull to simulate the glow of a lantern, will that shine through any gaps in the first planking layer and then "glow" through the thin final planking? I'm not sure. I am planning on painting the hull black as that is one of the reasons I purchased this good looking ship, so maybe my concerns are not that big of a deal. I will of course do my best to minimize any gaps on this second model ship. I suppose I could line the inside of the hull with some opaque fabric or some other non-conductive material, but that seems like a lot of work for something that might not even be an issue. Oh the life of the modeler...

 

Daniel

[Keith S]

I think it should be possible to do your first layer of thicker planking with relatively few gaps- it's a pretty simple hull-shape, after all, and the really tricky bit at the front is done using solid blocks- you don't need to set the planks all the way to the stem - although Other Keith did do that, because apparently he enjoys that sort of thing.

 

This was my first ship, and the only gaps I ended up with were in a couple of spots where I had soaked them and they subsequently dried and shrank a bit. I'm quite certain that you can close any gaps with slivers of wood if you need to, and besides that, even though the sapele second layer is quite thin, I'm sure that between that and the black paint, it will be quite opaque. 

 

[Geowolf]

wow, such improvements!!! i'm shocked! 😲

the final model will be astonishing, well done! 👍👍😄

[DanielD]

Last night I finished the lighting portion of this project, with everything working well. Then it was back to working first planking project. I realized late in the night when testing the lighting before going to bed, that as well as I believe I’m placing the planks, light still shines through the seams. When I experiment with the thin finish planks, I can see a faint glow through the planks. So....I ended up lining the hull with black card stock. A bit of extra work, but it couldn’t hurt to be safe.

 

[clearway]

it is certainly better to be safe than sorry Daniel, are occre actually putting full length planks in the kit now (must have heard us all complaining on here)!

 

Keith

[DanielD]

1 minute ago, clearway said:

it is certainly better to be safe than sorry Daniel, are occre actually putting full length planks in the kit now (must have heard us all complaining on here)!

 

Keith

Yes, full length planks! I was surprised too. The Golden Hind I did last year did not have full length planks. I’m a very happy person.

[DanielD]

Back in the workshop today. Finished the first planking layer and lots of sanding. Then more sanding, a little filling, and more sanding. Attached are the results.

 

Today’s questions: 1) I see some model builders add the ice bumpers before the final planking while others follow the OcCre instructions and finish planking before adding the bumpers. Is there a reason to add the bumpers first? 2) as I think ahead, I’m looking toward the straps on the masts. Should they be rope as in the kit instructions, or should they be metal? I’m happy to help do the research, but I don’t know where to start. It seems that Matthew Betts blog is not to that point yet. I did see in one shot of the found Terror wreck, a metal spider band at the base of a mast, presumably for belaying pins. Could this mean that the other bands were metal also? So many questions. 😬

 

Today I realized that the OcCre kit contains wood 4mm deadeyes and plastic 5mm deadeyes. Why would they do that? I’ve now ordered new wood deadeyes as well as new chainplates as the ones that included in the kit are not even close.
 

I also found some scale figurines to add interest and a few other enhancements, like a new wood life boat kit, similar to the one Keith found for his build.

[DanielD]

It took a bit, but I found the image from one of the dives of the HMS Terror which shows a spider band on one of the masts.

 

 

[clearway]

the ice bumpers will be more secure glued to the first planking and see keith s build log regarding spider band on mizzen. Metal bands on masts on vessels by this time though i dont think she had made masts like victory so may have just had bands on the cheeks (still looking into this).

 

Keith

[Keith S]

Because of that photograph, I made a spider band on the mizzen of my model. If you look at my build log, you'll see it's the second version. The first version was made to accept the kit's belaying pins, which are much too large. I've gone to 5mm belaying pins and the new spider-band is a casting from "Cast your Anchor", a Canadian online model ship-supply shop. I have some extras if you can't locate them online. The castings need to be filed a bit to look right. 

 

If you read my build-log and Clearway's (we are still working out which of us is "other Keith") you will see a lot of discussion about this and other matters. If you wish to make your model as historically accurate as possible, there is a lot of work to be done. I actually gave my model a rest for the summer because it was making me neurotic. 

 

[Geowolf]

9 hours ago, clearway said:

the ice bumpers will be more secure glued to the first planking and see keith s build log regarding spider band on mizzen. Metal bands on masts on vessels by this time though i dont think she had made masts like victory so may have just had bands on the cheeks (still looking into this).

 

Keith

otherwise, it's possible to fix the first planks of the ice bumpers with pins and glue to the first+second planking, cutting the heads of the pins; the second, third, four, etc additional planks of the ice bumpers, only with glue. Sure it will not move hehehe  😄

[Geowolf]

20 hours ago, DanielD said:

Back in the workshop today. Finished the first planking layer and lots of sanding. Then more sanding, a little filling, and more sanding. Attached are the results.

 

Today’s questions: 1) I see some model builders add the ice bumpers before the final planking while others follow the OcCre instructions and finish planking before adding the bumpers. Is there a reason to add the bumpers first? 2) as I think ahead, I’m looking toward the straps on the masts. Should they be rope as in the kit instructions, or should they be metal? I’m happy to help do the research, but I don’t know where to start. It seems that Matthew Betts blog is not to that point yet. I did see in one shot of the found Terror wreck, a metal spider band at the base of a mast, presumably for belaying pins. Could this mean that the other bands were metal also? So many questions. 😬

 

Today I realized that the OcCre kit contains wood 4mm deadeyes and plastic 5mm deadeyes. Why would they do that? I’ve now ordered new wood deadeyes as well as new chainplates as the ones that included in the kit are not even close.
 

I also found some scale figurines to add interest and a few other enhancements, like a new wood life boat kit, similar to the one Keith found for his build.

nice hull, well done! no gaps! 👍😄

[DanielD]

In the shipyard today I finished the second layer of planking on the port side. There are a few minor issues, but I’m planning on painting the hull black so shouldn’t be an issue.

 

 

[DanielD]

I’ve been thinking of what to do to hide the seam of the keel pieces. Then I was looking at Matthew Betts plans and had an idea, to put a piece of metal across the seams with appropriate rivets...it’s just an idea at this point. I know they won’t be in exactly the correct place, but close.

 

 

[DanielD]

Finished the starboard side of the second planking. Sorry, the pictures done do it justice. It’s nice and smooth without gaps. Should look great painted black.

 

 

[DanielD]

Well a good day in the shipyard. Finished the stern with the second planking. The hardest job done (in my opinion).

 

[Ian B]

Hi

 

Its coming along great. I am considering doing this kit next with added electrics (I have not yet added any to any of my previous builds) so definitely coming along for the ride

[DanielD]

In the shop today, I took some liberty with the model which I believe makes it more like the real ship. I used the scraps from the second planking, turning them into 60mm length planks, and used them to line the (inside) bulwark. The appearance of horizontal planking can be seen in Matthew Betts model and the original plans for the ship show inside planking on the lower decks. It makes sense to me that the weather deck would look the same.

 

[clearway]

make sure its well fastened on as the pinrails will glued to them, model coming along nicely.

 

Keith

[DanielD]

Started working on the ice bumpers. Still have some more finish work to do, but getting close.

 

[DanielD]

Today I installed the keel with some modifications. Added some metal plates including rivets to hide the seams of the keel. The rivets are 3D and should show up nicely when I paint the hull black.

 

 

Edited November 1, 2020 by DanielD

[DanielD]

Today I started the metal plating at the bow. Quite the chore making each plate fit.

 

 

[Geowolf]

On 11/2/2020 at 6:39 AM, DanielD said:

Today I started the metal plating at the bow. Quite the chore making each plate fit.

 

 

very very nice planking finish, you have good hands!! 👍😃

[DanielD]

Yesterday I came across more Terror information that is new to me. Below are two images, some HMS Terror plans (as fitted 1845) with two cannons at the bow. The image of the wreck is from the HMS Erebus clearly showing two cannons and we know that the two ships were similarly fitted. Lastly I found an Inuit record from the area and around the time the two ships were stuck in ice, in which the sounds of cannons were heard, which at the time was a form of communication between the two ships. I guess I have some cannons to find...

 

Edited November 4, 2020 by DanielD

[DanielD]

Additionally, I found this on Matthew Betts build log regarding the color of paint on the inner bulwark.

 

 

Woolwich Yard, 17 April 1852. 

 

Sir, 

With reference to their Lordships' letter of this day's date, we beg to 

acquaint you, that Sir John Franklin's ships, the " Erebus " and " Terror," 

were painted when they sailed, black on the outside, and weather works

inside yellow.

And followed up with this discussion:

 

Lang’s choice of words in the first correspondence appears to be the source of the enduring discrepancy regarding the ships’ paint schemes. It seems Gould, followed by Cyriax, and then myriad others, interpreted the phrase “weather works inside yellow” to mean a band of yellow on the outside hull of the vessel. Indeed, the “weather works”, or upper works of a ship, are those areas of the vessel above the waterline exposed to the weather, including the upper hull and bulwarks both inside towards the deck and outside on the hull. However, Lang specifically states that the “weather works inside “ were yellow, meaning that the inside bulwarks were painted yellow. He makes no mention of a stripe on the outside hull, although a solid paint scheme without a stripe would have been unusual for a Royal Navy vessel of the era. 

 

Thankfully, a watercolour painting by Owen Stanley, who accompanied the ships across the North Atlantic to Greenland in 1845, provides important primary evidence which dispels much ambiguity (see below). The painting shows conclusively that the Terror and Erebus had black hulls with a white stripe along the outside weather works. The painting indicates that the white stripe was contiguous with the chock channel and that it ascended the outside stern frame of the Erebus at an angle. Another watercolour, which may also be the work of Stanley (it is clearly based on his 1845 drawing), confirms these characteristics, and also shows the yellow painting on the inside bulwarks (note also the very rusted condition of the iron bow plating). This image also suggests that the white stripe extended forward around the knee of the ship.

Well, I’m not sure what to think about this. At the moment I’m thinking of using a yellow wash on the inside of the bulwarks, not to make it bright yellow, but to give a hint of yellow but allow the details of the wood grain show through.

 

Edited November 4, 2020 by DanielD

[clearway]

if i had painted mine i would have done the bulwarks in humbrol matt 63 sand, regards the cannons i can't decide whether to include them or not🤔.

 

Keith

[DanielD]

9 minutes ago, clearway said:

if i had painted mine i would have done the bulwarks in humbrol matt 63 sand, regards the cannons i can't decide whether to include them or not🤔.

 

Keith

 

Keith, why Humbrol Matt 63 Sand? Was it common in the mid 1800's? I'm sure I can come up with something very close with the paint that I have, just curious if this was common at the time.

 

[clearway]

its a colour used for ships especially steam ships, here is a pic of a ship i am building with the superstructure painted in the same colour.

 

 

keith

[Keith S]

Based on Stanley's watercolour and the description in Dr. Betts' blog, I did the inner bulwarks on mine in yellow. I forget what the paint colour was called specifically, but it came in a set of standard "Admiralty" colours.

 

 

Edited November 5, 2020 by Keith S

[DanielD]

Starboard side plating almost finished. I hope to get the other side done today.