USS Tinosa (SSN-606) by CW_Tom - 1:200 scale - Thresher/Permit-class submarine - first build

[CW_Tom]

This is my first model ship build, my first scratch build, and my first wooden model build.  I have done plastic model aircraft in the past, but have been looking to move into something different.  I have been reading a lot about sailing ships lately, Patrick O'Brien's Master and Commander, Forrester's Hornblower series, as well as some non-fiction books on the subject.  I initially wanted to get into rigged model shipbuilding, but I realized that required skills I hadn't even come close to being acquainted.  Then the idea of scratch building a model submarine presented itself, especially after having read about how to bread-and-butter build a hull.  It seemed doable, with my modest woodworking skills.  Plus, my interest in submarines runs deep.  My dad served in the US Navy in the early to mid 70's as a sonar man aboard the USS Francis Scott Key - SSBN 657 and USS Tinosa.  I was able to find some designs for the Thresher/Permit class in general so the Tinosa is what I've gone with.  Now, for the ship rundown, I'll keep it brief.

 

USS Tinosa - wikipedia

http://www.navsource.org/archives/08/08606.htm

 

Commissioned October 1964

Decommissioned January 1992

 

278 ft. long and 31' 8" wide, at a 1:200 scale brings it to 16 3/4 in. long and just under 2 in. wide.

 

For the model, I chose poplar boards.  From my research, poplar seemed a decent wood to use, plus it is relatively inexpensive and easy to find here in the US.  I picked up a 1/2" x 6" x 4' board and positioned my templates.  I realize with a 2" wide hull and 1/2" boards, the bread-and-butter method is giving me only four 'lifts' on the model.  I think this will still be doable though its making it more like building from a solid block than I originally thought.  I am positioning the lifts according to buttock lines, versus doing them off the waterline.  This way, I can attempt to cut the sail and rudders out with the hull, keeping them together.  I'll have to individually manufacture the sail and stern planes, however. 

 

In this picture below, I've already begun laminating the two center boards, which straddle the submarines vertical centerline.

 

Here, I've removed the clamps from the centerboards, with the hull template on top.  Above I've got the two outer lifts with the template for those on one.  The next step will be cutting them out.

 

Finally, here is a picture of my hull templates at the various stations, cut to the diameter of the hull, from stern to bow.

 

Hopefully that was explained clearly.  I'm always open to helpful comments/critiques.  

 

 

Tom

[yvesvidal]

Interesting subject. I will be following your Build log.

 

Yves

[KeithAug]

2 hours ago, CW_Tom said:

This is my first model ship build, my first scratch build, and my first wooden model build.

Everyone has to start somewhere Tom. It is probably a good idea to start with something relatively straightforward. You can always progress to HMS Victory in the new year.

[CW_Tom]

Another update on the Tinosa.  I'm excited that I've been able to plug away at the model nearly everyday, even if its only 10-15 minutes.  There are many small details I've been able to take care of that will help the main project run smoother as it continues... I hope. 😁

 

This update shows the quick, but major step of cutting out the templates.  Below, I've got three pictures.  The first two are precut for the middle lifts, and then the outer lifts, respectively.  Plus, its a great shot of my father-in-laws band saw, and who doesn't like that?

 

The final picture is the current state of affairs.  All the pieces are cut out and will be ready for gluing soon.  I have just a couple details to take care of beforehand, namely marking the station lines along the hull on the inner and outer lifts.  To keep the two outer lifts from shifting when I glue, I'm thinking about drilling through the middle lifts, and partially drilling into the outer lifts so I can slide two dowels in there, essentially pinning the pieces in place.  However, since the entire model will be painted, I suppose I could drill all the way through.  The dowels would then get shaped into the hull via chisel/sanding and the paint would cover up any evidence of that.

 

If anyone has any other suggestions for keeping the lifts from sliding while I glue, I'd love to hear them.  

 

Thanks for your interest!

 

Tom

Edited November 20, 2020 by CW_Tom

[KeithAug]

2 hours ago, CW_Tom said:

The dowels would then get shaped into the hull via chisel/sanding and the paint would cover up any evidence of that.

 

Tom .

 

I'd stick with the plan of not drilling through the outer layers if i were you. Because the dowel grain runs in a different direction it is likely to contract at a different late over time and hence become visible. One trick to stop differential movement between layers is to sprinkle a little salt on the glued surface before clamping. The angular grains stop the movement, (although I think your doweling plan is better).

[CW_Tom]

26 minutes ago, KeithAug said:

 

Tom .

 

I'd stick with the plan of not drilling through the outer layers if i were you. Because the dowel grain runs in a different direction it is likely to contract at a different late over time and hence become visible. One trick to stop differential movement between layers is to sprinkle a little salt on the glued surface before clamping. The angular grains stop the movement, (although I think your doweling plan is better).

Thank you Keith.  I appreciate the feedback.  I think I will stick to my original plan then, and not drill through the entirety of the model, though I may do some looking at the salt idea.

Edited November 20, 2020 by CW_Tom

[lmagna]

Thanks for the "Inside" story Tom.

 

It is astounding when you think of it, that for years almost all these multi million dollar machines did was to try and follow each other in a game of cat and mouse that sometimes would last for days on end if some of the few accounts I have read are true.

 

Another method of locking  your lifts in place until the glue dries would be to  use the bandsaw and cut a slot at the bow and stern. Then you could drive wedges into these slots with the grain running the same as the rest of the hull. They would not even need to go all that deep. After the glue dries and clamps removed you will be removing almost all of the wood in these relatively narrow areas of the ship and almost all of the wedges will be sanded/carved away in the process only possibly leaving a small amount in the middle section. If I had seen this before you cut the hull shape I would have suggested that you leave a tab at the bow and stern just for this purpose and removed it entirely after the glue had dried and all lifts were solid. Dowels would have worked as well.

 

You could also place the lifts onto another uncut plank and drive nails around the outline of the cut hull to hold it all in place until dry. Again, you need to remember that much if not all of any slight misalignment will be removed when you carve/plain/sand the hull into a rounded shape. Only the very top and bottom centerline of the center lift will still be the same as the line you have cut.  

 

Hope all that makes a little sense.

 

[CW_Tom]

Keith, Imagna, thank you for the suggestions. Thank you all for the likes. 
 

I’ve been able to chip away at the model, in some ways literally. I stuck with the dowel plan. It went pretty smoothly. The hardest part was making sure the notches in the outer lifts lined up straight through to the other side. 

 

I ended up with 1/8” of dowel on either side, just enough to slot into the holes and prevent any sliding motion during the gluing. It worked well. 
 

 

After letting the glue dry overnight, I was left with this. 

 

 

Just behind the model, you can see my top down template. At the time of this picture, I was working out how to lay that on top so I could, again using the band saw, cut the top down profile. Once the template was ready, I decided to try my hand at some chiseling around the sail. 
 

 

It went pretty well. I haven’t cleared it out all the way to the hull because I am using the square base to help hold my top down template in place. 
 

I did have one accident at this stage. After chiseling out one side, I switched to the other. I would chisel vertically down a few taps to separate the wood from the sail portion before coming in horizontally and lifting out the waste.  Doing this put a little too much pressure against the sail and it split. Fortunately, it didn’t totally separate and I was able to get some glue in the split area and secure it. I think I’ll use a coping saw to vertically separate the wood next time, instead of a chisel. 
 

Finally, I got to my father-in-laws band saw again and got the last cuts complete. I also managed a little whittling and planing to start rounding the hull. 
 

Thanks again for the interest and likes. Again, I’m open to any suggestions you guys may think of. 
 

Regards,

 

Tom

 

Edited November 23, 2020 by CW_Tom

[Old Collingwood]

Tom If that was me I think I would use different  gradients of sand paper  to shape the hull/tower  - starting with a medium/coarse  and going through to a very fine one  - as you need to keep that wood as smooth and splinter free as possible, after that you could lock in the wood grain with a presever  before detailing and painting.

I suggest sandpapers  as tools like rasps/coarse files  can be a bit to rough and tear at the wood.

 

Hope that helps a bit mate.

 

OC.

[Roger Pellett]

Tom,

 

You’re doing this the hard way.  Easier to make two mirror image half models.  Leave the sail and rudder off.  Include the dowel holes matched to align the two half models.  

 

Shape the hulls.  The ideal tool for this is a set of small spokeshaves but chisels and small planes work too.  Keep your tools sharp.

 

As you refine the shape, check with your templates.  The beauty of shaping the two halves independently is that you have a defined centerline; the flat surface between the two hull halves that can be laid on another flat surface when checking the shape.

 

As you get close, switch to progressively finer grades of sandpaper.  Use a sanding block.  Once you are satisfied with the shape glue the two halves together and add the sail and rudder.

 

Roger

 

[CW_Tom]

Thank you for the feedback, @Old Collingwood and @Roger Pellett.  I should have switched to sand paper already on the sail. I did oversize the dimensions for that purpose, hog out most of the material, then refine the rest with sandpaper. But it is cutting a little bit close, I think. 
 

I appreciate the input Roger.  I think for now I’ll keep plugging away at what I’ve got, but that is something I will definitely consider when I do a similar project. Either way, I know it’s going to be a lot of sanding 😁.   I am reserving the right to remove the rudders and sail, then add them back on later. 

Edited November 23, 2020 by CW_Tom

[lmagna]

Too bad you don't have a wood lathe. Chuck it up and twenty minutes later, FINISHED HULL! I am certain that your way will work just fine Tom.

[CW_Tom]

@lmagnaA lathe is something I’m adding to my wish list. Though it will probably be a few years before that is realized.
 

Anyway, I’m enjoying the process so far and I’m finding things I’d do differently if I were to do it again, but that’s all in the fun.  I’m excited to see how close I can get to having something that looks like a hull of a submarine versus a banana. 😆 

Edited November 23, 2020 by CW_Tom

[lmagna]

5 hours ago, CW_Tom said:

how close I can get to having something that looks like a hull of a submarine versus a banana

Aren't they pretty much the same?  We could call the latter a "Yellow" submarine. (OK I'll go quietly back to my rafter)  

[CW_Tom]

Touché...  I've got nothing, *doffs hat*, to follow that up.

[Old Collingwood]

2 hours ago, CW_Tom said:

Touché...  I've got nothing, *doffs hat*, to follow that up.

Lou stays in the rafters  as he gets the best view  looking over our heads  - plus he is closest  to the  "Heads"

 

OC.

[CW_Tom]

Just a quick update. I’ve started sanding the hull, rounding it out. I’ve got a ways to go, and it’s a lengthy process, but I’m enjoying it. Here’s the current state of affairs. Hopefully there is enough relief in the pictures to highlight the details. 

Edited November 24, 2020 by CW_Tom

[lmagna]

Lookin good Tom

 

Just as a dumb question as I am being too lazy to look up the length and do my own math. What is the length of the model?

[CW_Tom]

On 11/18/2020 at 10:13 AM, CW_Tom said:

 

278 ft. long and 31' 8" wide, at a 1:200 scale brings it to 16 3/4 in. long and just under 2 in. wide.

Thank you guys for the likes and replies. I’m glad to see the continued interest.
 

My plan for the future of the model, after the sanding is complete and obvious control surfaces manufactured, will be etching detailwork into the hull, such as hatches and the like. When that is complete, I will be painting it. I’m planning on using acrylic paint for it. I will also be manufacturing a few of the masts, such as periscope, radio antenna, etc. I’ve never done metal work before with these, so I’m planning on making them out of plastic sprues, and cocktail sticks (toothpicks). I would like to do metal work in the future but I don’t feel prepared to try it on this model. 
 

Where can I get decals in 1:200 scale for the numbering for the draft lines on the bow and stern and for the hull number?

 

Thanks again,

 

Tom

[CW_Tom]

I realize scale is relatively arbitrary  when you can pretty much pick “font size.”

[Canute]

Tom, check thru the site sponsors. One more place to look is Free Time Hobbies: https://freetimehobbies.com/

 

There are a number of online hobby shops, not just ship sites. Try Megahobby: https://www.megahobby.com/

Sprue Brothers: https://store.spruebrothers.com/

Kitlinx: https://www.kitlinx.com/

 

Hopefully others chime in.

[CW_Tom]

Thanks!  I appreciate it. That’s what I was looking for. 

[CW_Tom]

I’m also trying to develop a jig to transfer hull details from the plans to the model accurately. Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

I am looking in the modeling tips, tricks, and jigs section of this forum and coming up with some possibilities, but also looking to see if anyone else has other ideas. 
 

Thanks. 

Edited November 25, 2020 by CW_Tom

[CW_Tom]

Thank you @CDR_Ret  Correct me if I’m wrong but CDR is the abbreviation for Navy’s Commander, correct?

As far as the wood working is going, it seems to be progressing well.  I spent some more time on it today and the hull lines are firming up. 

I’ve still got a ways to go. I sand a bit, then check the profiles of the different areas with my hull templates. 

Edited November 25, 2020 by CW_Tom

[Edwardkenway]

Looking good Tom, I don't  envy the amount of sanding you've inflicted on yourself, but must say you doing great.

Love the fact it's your dads sub, must give you extra motivation 🙂😉

[lmagna]

No reason not to go ahead and build your hull using templates like Tom is CDR. It is a time honored method used in almost all solid hull models of virtually any shape. No need for a lathe at all.

 

Your hull is looking better every day Tom.

 

What you may consider when it is time to lay out your hull details is to use the paper patterns you already have. For example lay the profile plan onto the top and secure it temporarily. take a sharp needle like device and follow the lines you want to transfer poking dots into the hull. Then remove the pattern and connect the dots. The curvature of the hull may require additional small adjustments but I think you will be happy with the results. 

[Old Collingwood]

Every day you are  making her look all the more sub like   so wish  @Kevin   would say hi, he has a unique  perspective on the subject  and was not affraid of having several hundread feet of water above him.😉

 

OC

[CW_Tom]

Thank you, gentlemen. I appreciate the feedback, suggestions, and encouragement. 
 

As far as the amount of sanding is concerned, I’m enjoying it. It’s an opportunity to take some time out of the day, do something with my hands, and let my mind wander a bit. It’s also fun to see the shape come in little by little.  I realize there are other, quicker ways to remove wood, but this way, I can’t do too much damage in a quick fashion, plus, being tool limited limits my options. 😉. I’m fine with it taking a few days to get into tolerance. 

For those of you in the States, Happy Thanksgiving. For those of you elsewhere, Happy Thanksgiving as well! 😁 I wish you all the best and hope you have your own things to be thankful for this year. 
 

Tom

 

[KeithAug]

1 hour ago, CW_Tom said:

and let my mind wander a bit.

The shaping is going really well Tom, not bad for a first scratch build. I find my mind can wander in almost any situation.

 

[lmagna]

54 minutes ago, KeithAug said:

I find my mind can wander in almost any situation.

For me it is more of an issue to keep my mind from wandering. Sometimes these days I almost consider it the most mobile part of my body.

 

Happy Thanksgiving and mental peace to all of you anywhere.