HMS Bounty by DaveBaxt - FINISHED - Amati - 1:60

[DaveBaxt]

3 hours ago, Ian_Grant said:

Dave,

 

Love your model, she's looking really good!  Just thought I would show what I did about serving rope - made a serving machine from my old meccano which I have held onto for 50 years but my modern kids were never interested 😞.  Just needed to buy brass tubing of the correct "meccano diameter" for the hollow shaft. Works well albeit a bit creaky when cranking 🙂

 

Yeah I also thought a serving machine was the way to go but I had a few problems sourcing the parts to make one . So I decided to buy the Serv O matic made by Chuck . Received the parts and managed to build it within a day. In the mean time I have been  putting together the Yards which I have now completed. Here are a few photos of the yards. I am now planning on going back to the rigging, starting with the stays. AS yet I still need to re do  a number of stays, hoping I will do a better jib with the serving machine.Thanks again for your input. Best regards Dave

[DaveBaxt]

4 hours ago, Tim Moore said:

I used aluminium because the right sizes were available. it is also really easy to slice with a Dremel and file into decent rings, and drill holes into for the brass posts. 

Once again Tim thank you for giving me that Tip and what a great idea it is using the aluminium tubing. I have had a look at a Cornwall Ship models shop here in the uk and they stock a number of different sizes of aluminium tubing and does not look too expensive so will definately get some of this for my next model I build. I eventually got the hang of using the copper strip however it is far from perfect and no where near as good as your yards. However I think I will move onto the rigging again and follow the previous sequence you gave me earler. Best regards Dave

[Trond]

15 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

I would have thought the aluminium would be much easier to work with than brass but could be wrong. I have also noticed with my kit that a lot of the dowels are under sized quit a bit. Mainly on the smaller stuff, for example when the drawing says 4 mm the dowel is 3.5mm , Next time I will check the kit at the start and perhaps buy the next size up for that particular spar.

Can you solder the aluminum for a stronger connection or is glue the best solution?

[DaveBaxt]

I am not sure about Aluminium. Maybe can with silver solder but don,t believe the fumes are too healthy but that could be when welding. Maybe better to use brass if you want to solder. Personally I would go with what Tim has suggested as he has made a very neat job and would think it would be strong enough. Perhaps some expert can step in here if they have experience with soldering aluminium. Sorry if this is not much help

[DaveBaxt]

Update . After adding the the lower Stays I then found it difficult to attach the fore mast shrouds at the top of the mast and therefore decided to remove the lanyards from the Stays, which enabled me to lift the stays out of the way rather than try and get the shrouds to fit  under the stays. It was also much easier to fit the Burton pendants before fitting the shrouds. 

Also I don,t know how I would have managed with out Chucks serving machine when it came to the first of the shrouds, I also tried a few ways regards the fitting of the upper dead eyes and found just having a board without pegs shown in one of the photos not sufficient as really could have done with an extra per of hands. Eventually I have managed to have a combination of pegs and a board seemed to work best for me, although I am still having some difficulty with the throat seizing where the shrouds cross over. I have managed to fit the first of the stbd shrouds but have not secured the lanyards. 

Edited March 28, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

After posting a question on Masting and rigging to get a wider view of peoples ideas. I have now decided to redo the fore mast lower shrouds in the hope of better securing the lower dead eyes into the Channels. Next time I will definately consider soldering the upper link around the deadeye and perhaps consider having the gap lower down instead of actually around the dead eye and see if this makes a difference. What is strange is this is not happening on all of the dead eyes and requires further investigation.

Oh well I need the practice in re doing all that nice serving again. Ha ha. I would like to mention a special thanks to all the people who answered my question regarding this issue. Best regards Dave

 

[DaveBaxt]

After many weeks and several attempts at the main shrouds this is my best attempt at what I thought would be a very enjoyable part of the build, however In terms of difficulty, it was up there with the securing the cannons. However I did discover what the main issue were and I am pleased that I have learned a valuable lesson . I definately should have taken more care when securing the lower pad eyes and perhaps I should have gone back and soldered the chain plates and upper link which surrounds the lower pad eye, One problem being, is. Every time I put any tension on the shrouds the gap in the upper link would come apart and although the distance between the upper and lower pad eyes were the same ( due to using a jig) the upper pad eyes were not in the same plane.

                            I also had issues with trying different jigs most of which caused me other problems but eventually I made one which did a pretty good job and I was able to secure the upper pad eye with the correct siezing. here is a photo of the link I had problems with and of the different number of jigs I used and the final one which eventually was fine with.

Also here is my final attempt at the lower shrouds . You can also see from the photos that I also have some of the Stays in place, I have since learned form the guys on this forum what the different sizes of the rigging rope is and not what is in the instructions indicate.So I  have decided to do them again. I am definately learning as I am going along and although I am not at the stage of making my own ropes yet. I will make an attempt at roughly use  the ropes somewhere near as what is available to purchase. 

                         

                             

At this stage the Lanyards will need a final adjustment once all the standing rigging is  completed.  I would once again like to take this opertunity to thank everyone who has helped me with all the questions I have asked on the MSW forums .

Best regards Dave

Edited April 12, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

Just completed the futtock shrouds. According to instructions there were no links around the dead eyes but directly onto the futtock shrouds. According to the 'Historic ship models' by Monfield this is incorrect for this period, so purchased some Amati futtock shroud lnks and used these together with hooks. Both were blackened as per all previous brass fittings. You can also see some of the crows feet which I did. Unfortunately I did not use wax on these as I used light rope rather than black. Not sure if this is correct .However I think I will wax for the rest of the running rigging as it prevents furring on the ropes. I am also not sure if this is the correct way forward for the running rigging.

It has been a slow process with the standing rigging so far. I am not working on the model as much as I like due to other commitments. Next in line are the top shrouds and then finally the back stays. Hopefully I will have an easier time of the top shrouds as the links I used for the pad eyes were very similar to the ones made by Caldercraft and have the little tab on the tail of the link. Hope this makes sense.

Edited April 20, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[JDDouglass]

Greetings Dave,

 

Impressive model beautifully made the box art really stands out. I got this model in the post today, opened the box pretty much the second it arrived. Looks a lovely model even though it has a few issues. Very much looking forward to starting but currently I'm building the US Constellation which I'll probably finish first. I'm just about to start rigging her so hopefully in a month or two I'll be able to start. I wish you luck with the rest of your rigging and finishing touches I'll be following.

[DaveBaxt]

1 hour ago, JDDouglass said:

Greetings Dave,

 

Impressive model beautifully made the box art really stands out. I got this model in the post today, opened the box pretty much the second it arrived. Looks a lovely model even though it has a few issues. Very much looking forward to starting but currently I'm building the US Constellation which I'll probably finish first. I'm just about to start rigging her so hopefully in a month or two I'll be able to start. I wish you luck with the rest of your rigging and finishing touches I'll be following.

Welcome aboard and thank you for your kind words. Yes I thought the box art made a statement too , however I am not sure how accurate the colours are . Which manufacturers are you building there seems to be several different ones and quite a few blogs on the Bounty going. That is one of the reasons why I chose the Bounty for my first period ship. There is also a number of videos of the Amati Bounty which I found very helpful at the beginning but have gone more with the advice of the guys on this forum as ths was more accurate. Best regards Dave

[JDDouglass]

55 minutes ago, DaveBaxt said:

Welcome aboard and thank you for your kind words. Yes I thought the box art made a statement too , however I am not sure how accurate the colours are . Which manufacturers are you building there seems to be several different ones and quite a few blogs on the Bounty going. That is one of the reasons why I chose the Bounty for my first period ship. There is also a number of videos of the Amati Bounty which I found very helpful at the beginning but have gone more with the advice of the guys on this forum as ths was more accurate. Best regards Dave

I chose the same manufacturer Amati,

 

Looked at some of the other kits but I really liked this one. Bounty is a must for everyone's collection in my opinion, it's one of those iconic ships that most people know. I've always like to do my homework as you might say and do a lot of research before starting. I've seen the YouTube videos already myself, yes I find them useful to a certain extent. As you say through you can get a lot more information here on MSW. I enjoy reading the history of the ships I build as well as picking up tips on the the build itself. I'm still very much a novice this kit will be my 5th period ship so any help is always appreciated. I'm impressed that this only your first build, you have made a good job so far. Enjoy your build Dave 🙂

 

Regards JD

 

[DaveBaxt]

On 4/20/2021 at 11:59 PM, JDDouglass said:

I chose the same manufacturer Amati,

 

Looked at some of the other kits but I really liked this one. Bounty is a must for everyone's collection in my opinion, it's one of those iconic ships that most people know. I've always like to do my homework as you might say and do a lot of research before starting. I've seen the YouTube videos already myself, yes I find them useful to a certain extent. As you say through you can get a lot more information here on MSW. I enjoy reading the history of the ships I build as well as picking up tips on the the build itself. I'm still very much a novice this kit will be my 5th period ship so any help is always appreciated. I'm impressed that this only your first build, you have made a good job so far. Enjoy your build Dave 🙂

 

Regards JD

 

Sorry I missed this but I agree with every thing you say. I found the Bounty very tough for a first time build of a period ship and only my second build ever. I like the look of the vessel in the back ground. What ship is she. I look forward to any input you would care to make, having built 5 period ships, you are an expert in my eyes. Best regards Dave

[DaveBaxt]

Top shrouds complete and moving onto the top fore stays and jib boom guys. For the record  according to the instructions, most of the top and topgallant  stays are wrapped around the tops without a mouse and directly attached to the mast in front. According to my source Historic Ship Models by Mondfield these should all have a leading block and lead to the deck via block and tackle. Unfortunately there is no connection on the deck level and I do not have the room. Therefore I will take some advice which I have been given and this time go with the instructions. Unfortunately I wont have any adjustment on the stays once they are set in place.Here is a few photos of my progress so far.

[Trond]

Your doing a great job Dave. I see all the work you have done and I haven't started jet. So I guess it is a mix of excitement and worries to start rigging.

 

How tight are the lines? In real life it is easy tightening here, loose up other places, but on small scale?

 

Well , continue the great work. 

 

TrondSB

[AJohnson]

Great Progress Dave, i'm not too far from starting the masts and yards on my Bounty now, so will be checking in on your rigging progress!  👍

 

One thing that intrigues me, your lower masts are painted white, is that in the instructions?  Caldercraft make no mention of the mast colouration for my kit, I know the larger Bounty replica (the one that unfortunately sank in a storm a few years back) had white masts, just thinking about the historical likelihood before i get to that decision!

 

Keep up the good work! 😁

[DaveBaxt]

2 hours ago, Trond said:

Your doing a great job Dave. I see all the work you have done and I haven't started jet. So I guess it is a mix of excitement and worries to start rigging.

 

How tight are the lines? In real life it is easy tightening here, loose up other places, but on small scale?

 

Well , continue the great work. 

 

TrondSB

Thanks for you kind words. The lines are not very tight but need a liitle bit of tension once I have completed the stays and back stays. I Don, t think they need to be so tight but just enough so they look taught but I could be wrong. Perhaps someone more knowledgeable can step in and answer that one

[DaveBaxt]

17 minutes ago, AJohnson said:

Great Progress Dave, i'm not too far from starting the masts and yards on my Bounty now, so will be checking in on your rigging progress!  👍

 

One thing that intrigues me, your lower masts are painted white, is that in the instructions?  Caldercraft make no mention of the mast colouration for my kit, I know the larger Bounty replica (the one that unfortunately sank in a storm a few years back) had white masts, just thinking about the historical likelihood before i get to that decision!

 

Keep up the good work! 😁

Thanks for your kind words. The colour is more of a personal choice and I got the idea from the front of the box. When I ordered the ship I was also given the opportunity to purchase the paints which included these colours. Perhaps the colours are not to everyones taste but although might not be authentic I do rather like it. Just for the record I have ordered a display case for her which will take a month before it arrives so hopefully I'll be finished by then

 

[DaveBaxt]

Update. Ratlines completed. I decided to use half the size which was stated in the Amati instruuctions which said .5mm. I went with 0.25mm black thread instead as I thought this looked better with having white masts and also I  believe it to be standing rigging and therefore tarred.The size of 0.25mm is much closer to the size as suggested in 'History of ship models by monfield' Here are a couple of photos of the completed standing rigging. Just a bit more tension on the backstays and I might change one or two of the back stay lanyards as these have got a bit hairy for some reason( I wonder if it has anything to do with the smallest of the deadeyes). My ratlines definately improved as I went along and by the time I got about half way through I was much better at it. 

[Trond]

Great job Dave.

I totally agree with the proportion. In the Armed Transporter Bounty the Main mast Ratlines are 1 1/2" circ. => 0.2mm in diameter in scale 1:60, so perfect.

Keep up the good work.

[DaveBaxt]

I have started raising the lower coarse yards to the masts and fitting the Parrels with 3 rows to the main and fore masts. I also decided to fit the lifts working from the main lower and outwards and upwards, thinking it would be easier giving me more room  before raising the top and top gallant yards. It was very tight in this area,especially  just under the lower cross trees . I have temporarily fitted the lines at the belaying pins until I sort out the best way to belay the lines . It appears to me that the belaying pins are far too big (to large a head on them ). and wonder if thinner ones would be better I definately need to modify the tool I have, as I am finding it almost impossible to belay the lines properly using this tool.

Here is a photo of the belaying pins with the large heads. Perhaps in hindsight I could have drilled the holes slightly further apart but this would enlarge the size of the pin racks. Another solution would be to source some thinner belaying pins. I have also included a photo of the tool I purchased for belaying the ropes. Unfortunately the slot is too deep and is hitting the back of the bulwark before securing the line underneath. I will therefore need to modify it to suit. Perhaps I should have saved myself some money and made one from the start.

Edited May 11, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[LyleK1]

8 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

Here is a photo of the belaying pins with the large heads. Perhaps in hindsight I could have drilled the holes slightly further apart but this would enlarge the size of the pin racks. Another solution would be to source some thinner belaying pins. I have also included a photo of the tool I purchased for belaying the ropes. Unfortunately the slot is too deep and is hitting the back of the bulwark before securing the line underneath. I will therefore need to modify it to suit. Perhaps I should have saved myself some money and made one from the start.

The pins look too big! Sometimes the kit pins are just not the right scale!

I have a similar set of tools and ended modifying a screwdriver for the same reason.

Looking good overall but belaying the lines will be a fun job... insert sarcasm!

[Gregory]

If you have a low rpm rotary tool, you can chuck those pins up and get a nice shape on the top part with sanding sticks, etc..

 

Don't worry about changing the bottom, as it won't be visible unless it's an unused pin.

[DaveBaxt]

2 hours ago, Gregory said:

If you have a low rpm rotary tool, you can chuck those pins up and get a nice shape on the top part with sanding sticks, etc..

 

Don't worry about changing the bottom, as it won't be visible unless it's an unused pin.

 

2 hours ago, Gregory said:

If you have a low rpm rotary tool, you can chuck those pins up and get a nice shape on the top part with sanding sticks, etc..

 

Don't worry about changing the bottom, as it won't be visible unless it's an unused pin.

Thanks for that and I think a Dremmel will definately be on my shopping list for my next model. Hopefully my next model will be from Caldercraft and with a bit of luck  will be smaller of the correct scale. Thanks once again for visiting my blog it is much appreciated. Best regards Dave

[DaveBaxt]

4 hours ago, LyleK1 said:

The pins look too big! Sometimes the kit pins are just not the right scale!

I have a similar set of tools and ended modifying a screwdriver for the same reason.

Looking good overall but belaying the lines will be a fun job... insert sarcasm!

Thanks once again for your Input and no doubt  you are right . I will have to check my next model more carefully . This being my first  period ship I just assumed everything would be made to the correct scale. How wrong could I be.After modifying my tool I thought I had removed all of the burs but alas unfortunately not as I accidently cut one of the lines as I was taking the line underneath the pin rail and I had to do it all again Gggrrrr! The joys of modelling I suppose.The screw driver sound like a very good idea. Best regards Dave

[DaveBaxt]

Continued with the running rigging. Parrels completed on lower and top yards and slings on topgallant yards. tyes completed on all yards and lifts on all yards except for the spritsail yard. I have still got some adjustments to the ropes to secure the yards in a more level position. Just for the recond I managed to get by with the belaying pis supplied by the kit although I still nead to add some coils to the pins. I made a few changes to the topgallant tyes as looking on the drawing they were fixed at the top crosstrees and therefore the yard would be in a fixed position.Everything I have managed to find about this  has suggested that this should lead to a purchase ie block and tackle secured on the lower cross trees. I have done this but as there was no allocated for a belaying pin I picked a couple close to the other pins used for the other tyes for the other yards and were not being used. Hope this makes sense. The braces are up next and once these are done I will see where I am at and what is needed. Here are a few photos and sorry about the quality. I am moving the model to different locations hoping to catch the model in the best light.

[Trond]

This is what it's all about, rigging. Keep up the good work.

 

I'm both looking forward to it and also worrying about it 😉

[DaveBaxt]

6 hours ago, Trond said:

This is what it's all about, rigging. Keep up the good work.

 

I'm both looking forward to it and also worrying about it 😉

I think it has taken me as long to do the rigging as the rest of the ship. Lots of it I had to do again.The one thing I regret is not doing a better job of the chain plates and securing the lower deadeyes. I really should have replaced the upper chain plate links as the Amati ones were useless. It was just about impossible to get my upper dead eyes in the same plain as using a link (jig) between the two dead eyes was useless. I will definately take more care in this area on my next model. Best regards Dave

[DaveBaxt]

Well I think I am done. Just the flags to attach to there lanyards and then pop over a display case ( hopefully arriving next week). I made a jig which made about 10 rope hanks for the ropes over the belay pins. After attaching the ropes to the belaying pins I had to slacken off and re adjust the ropes a few times to get what I thought made the yards parallel . Did I make any mistakes, lots and had to do them again several times. Could I have done better than what is my first time building a period ship. Most definately and I probably rushed some parts in the hope of getting it finished in time before the good weather arriving and didn,t want to leave it until the winter. So after 7 mths and probably over 1000 hrs working on her, here she is. I hope you like it guys. It has been a huge learning curve,especially with the rigging. Having started using the Amati drawings but then changing the rigging as I continued ti learned to do it more accurately. So ended up using a few extra lines and blocks( so a good job I had lots of spares which I thought I would need) I also made a mess of the supplied flags so decided to order some cloth ones which hopefully will arrive soon. Unfortunately I have lost my lead for my camera so have taken these from my phone

II

I would just like to thank the many people on the this site for all the help and patience and for the many questions that I asked over the last several months. I would also like to make a special thanks to Jerry and his wife Marlene for there fantastic blog of their Amati version of the Bounty and also for the encouragment  Jerry has given me. 

                                         I am now considering the HMS Endeavour by Caldercraft whhich I beleive is a bit of an upgrade on the Bounty and will present me with a few more problems. However I am now armed with a good few books especially on rigging and therefore will be able to do it some justice. I have also learned how to be more patient and work slower in the hope of improving the workmanship , especially on the rigging on the cannons and better securing those lower deadeyes.. I also now have a better understanding of the rigging for at least a ship without sails. perhaps the next one will be with furled sails. Best regards Dave.

Edited May 25, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Gregory]

A Very nice Bounty!

 

I think you may have set a record for completing a kit, not counting James H. and his Vanguard prototypes..

Edited May 25, 2021 by Gregory

[Tim Moore]

Well done Dave! Congrats on pushing through all that rigging.