Lynx by Gaffrig - Panart - Scale 1:62

[Gaffrig]

Hello all!

 

Here we go again!

After finishing Le Renard, I have decided to start the build of Panart's kit of the Lynx.

I really like the lines of this ship with it's huge rig and raked masts.

I will be continuing my Bluenose build, but have found out that I like to have two (or more?) projects at different stages going at the same time.

This will be my first model with double planking, so we'll see how that goes!

 

So here is a few photos of the box and it's contents.

The quality of the lasercuts look great, with no burn marks, and no warping.

The rest of the materials also look good.

There is two sheets with plans printed on both sides and a pamphlet of written instructions.

 

 

 

 

 

Upon starting to look things through and planning the point of attack, I realised that even though the lasercuts look great, they are not numbered in any way..

 

There is however a full scale drawing of most of the pieces on the plans, so I cut loose the bulkheads and layed them on the plan to figure out which was which.

The drawing (or the lasercuts) seems to be inaccurate as none of the bulkheads fit perfectly on the plan.

A little bit of guesswork is needed here..

 

 

Bulkhead no. 6 and 7 is very similar, but I think I got it figured out.

 

The keel is in one piece, but the plans and instructions say that it is three pieces that need to be joined together.

Maybe they have updated the kit and not the instructions?

 

I decided to cut a rabbet in the keel to take the planking. No mention of this in instructions.

 

 

 

This is where I am now, more updates to come as work progress.

 

Stay safe!

 

Gaffrig.

 

 

 

[ccoyle]

I'm keen to see how this one turns out. Baltimore clippers are not rare in our hobby, but we don't see the Panart version often.

[Gaffrig]

Ccoyle, I was looking through the buildlogs and there seems to be a few ongoing builds, but a long time since they have been updated.

 

I’m also curious to how it turns out! 😆

The instructions and plans aren’t the greatest, so I will probably need to study pictures and other references to figure things out.

 

Gaffrig.

[Gaffrig]

Hello all!

 

Another update as the work on Lynx progresses.

 

When dryfitting bulkheads, I realised all of them are riding a bit low in the keel.

 

 

 

I fixed this by glueing a piece of wood in the notch to make the bulkheads ride flush with the top of the keel.

 

Then I started glueing the bulkheads in place.

 

 

Bulkead number one glued inplace..

 

Upon dryfitting I also found out that the front end of the lower deck did not fit in the notch of bulkhead number 2.

 

 

I decided to cut of from the deck. If I had cut of in the bulkhead, there would be little material left for beveling later.

A simple fix though.

 

Since this model has several open hatches with ladders going down below, I decided to plank the lower deck, using some leftover materials from the Bluenose deck. This might be a little "over the top", as it will barely be visible, but a good feeling to know it's there!

 

 

Using a steel ruler to make sure the first plank is straight.

 

 

I decided to try using PVA glue to glue the deck. I have previously used CA glue for this.

It seems PVA is easier to work with, easier to clean up, and does'nt glue my fingers to the deck!

I think I'll stick with this method from now on..

 

 

 

 

Looks a bit messy, but with trimming the edges and some sandpaper...

 

 

 

 

And a couple of coats of oil it looks a lot better!

 

 

 

 

That's it for now!

 

Stay safe!

 

Gaffrig.

 

[Gaffrig]

Hello to all!

 

The build continues..

 

Have got all the bulkheads glued in place.

 

Appears to be nice and straight..

 

 

Test fit of the lower deck..

 

 

The lower deck also has a second piece in the stern.

I decided to plank this as well, but there is a lasercut notch that I don't quite understand..

Looking at the plan, this notch is not there.. 🤔

When looking further in the instructions there does'nt seem to be a need for this notch..

 

 

So I decided to fill it and plank over it..

 

 

 

 

 

When dryfitting the sterndeck plywood piece (for lack of a better word) I realized the aftmost bulkhead had come to low by quite a bit. (2-3mm)

 

 

 

 

So, nothing else to do but unstick it and glue it again with a small shim to get it in the correct place.

 

 

 

 

When this was fixed I glued on the lower deck.

 

 

 

 

 

 

When this was finished I started beveling the bulkheads, and decided to fill with balsa in the bow.

 

 

 

 

So, a little more shaping of the bulkheads and I think I'm ready to start the first layer of planking.

 

Stay safe!

 

Gaffrig.

 

 

[Gaffrig]

Hello all!

 

Wow, I knew it had been a while since I updated this build log, but one year?!

Well, life has gotten in the way quite a bit this past year, but I have been building a little now and then.

 

When beveling the bulkheads I got a problem with the last couple of bulkheads not lining up right to get a nice run of the planking.

 

 

 

So I had to make a decision on how to fix this. Looking at the picture on the box, there is a little "dent" at this spot, but not nearly as much as this.

Maybe this got worse because I moved the aftmost bulkhead up to get it level with the deck? (see previous post)

 

Picture on box..

 

 

So I did a little research and found the musquidobit lines plan at NMM, and there it looks to be a small transom below the transom with the gunports.

Marked in red in picture.

 

 

The plans in the kit makes no mention of this..

 

 

So I decided to wander off on my own and make a transom here. I then worsened the problem with the dent in the planking, but since this had to be fixed anyway I could do this by adding to the last bulkhead.

 

Glued on some balsa wood and started to chip away, having no idea really if this would work out or not!

 

 

After some shaping and sanding, I think I'm getting somewhere..

 

 

I realized from the musquidobit plan that the stern overhang also was a lot shorter than in the kit, so I decided to shorten it..

Cut of about 10 mm from it.

 

 

I then added to the aftmost bulkhead a little..

 

 

And voila! the run of the planking looks a lot better, at least to my eye!

 

 

So, onwards with the first planking.. It seems the house photographer (me) has been sleeping or something, because the next pictures i have is with first planking done!

 

 

 

 

I think the stern turned out ok, at least it ended up looking like something I imagined.

 

 

 

So this brings the log up to date at where the build is now, next step will be second planking.

 

Gaffrig.

 

 

[Gaffrig]

Hello everyone!

 

This must be MSW's slowest updating buildlog?! Updates roughly once a year...

I have found out that when you buy an old house that needs a lot of work, it really cuts into your modeling time..

Anyway, the most important room in the house is finished, (We all know what room that is, don't we?) and work on the Lynx is progressing slowly but surely.

 

I have been working on the second planking, using the 1x5mm walnut supplied with the kit. They were a little rough looking but after some sanding they turned out ok.

 

I started at the top of the bulwarks and worked my way down.

I thought it would look good to round the edges of the first three planks, but if it doesn't I can always fill and sand it smooth.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The stern turned out the way I had hoped, looking in my eyes more correct.

 

In the last pictures here the hull has only got a rough sanding, so that is the next project, to fine sand and fill, and sand... And then some paint.

 

Hopefully it will turn into a shipmodel in a year or two at the speed I'm going!

 

All the best,

Gaffrig

 

[ccoyle]

Very neat work!

[Gaffrig]

Thank you!

I try my best, and hopefully it will be good enough in the end!

 

Gaffrig.

[Gaffrig]

Hello all!

 

The slowest buildlog continues!

Since the last update I’ve been playing with plastic models for awhile. 
But now I’m back at the Lynx.

 

Hull has been through several rounds of sanding and filling.

A wale (whale?) has been added and the hull primed.

 

The waterline has been marked and the bottom painted. I used tamiya xf-64 redbrown for this.

 

 

 

I then painted the topsides black with tamiya xf-1.

 

 

The waterline needs a couple of touch-ups where paint has creeped under the tape in some spots.

In preparations for the deck, I realised that one of the deckbeams crossed right over the main hatch, so I cut the deckbeam and built a framework for the main hatch. One of the deckbeams also interferes with the mainmast, so this needed a little trimming.

 

So this is how she sits today, slowly progressing and not not forgotten!

 

Gaffrig.

 

 

[Gaffrig]

Hello!

 

Work continues on Lynx. 
Got the plywood subdeck glued inplace, dowels to keep mastholes aligned.

 

There is no mention of the waterways in either plans or instructions, but i decided to make these as I think it looks better.

 

Drilled the hole for the bowsprit, to remove the inner stem so the waterways could fit up in the bow.

 

First waterway glued inplace. 
 

Need more clamps to glue the other side!

 

Gaffrig.

[allanyed]

I was surprised and liked very much that the tops of the bulkheads were removed so the moulded dimension of the bulwark is realistic.   Was this part of the kit instructions? 

Hope to see more progress in your build.😀   

Allan 

[Gaffrig]

Hello.

 

Yes, the bulkhead tops are to be removed according to the instructions. The bulwark is now to be planked on the inside with 1x5mm walnut. Same as outer planking.

 

Gaffrig.

[Gaffrig]

Hello!

 

I have been working on the inner planking of the bulwarks. Got it sanded and painted.

(Bought more clamps!)

I think I want to make the gunports before laying the deck, to minimize risk of damageing the deck when cutting/filing the gunports. 
This is where I have met a small challenge.. the plan shows the gunports 90 degrees to the waterline. I think it looks much better with gunports 90 degrees to the sheer/deckline. See pic of plan.

 

Looking at the boxart, it seems they have made gunports 90 degrees to sheer/deckline. Most other vessels I have seen also have this. I’m almost decided to follow this instead of the plan. What do you guys think?

 

 

Also a question that arose.. would it be best to cut the gunports first, and then glue on the caprail? Or glue the caprail first to help stiffen up the bulwark while cutting in it? I guess it will be easier to cut the gunports without the caprail inplace, but also easier to break of the bulwark unintentionally while working on it.. hmmm. Desicions.. any thoughts or tips here?

Here is a link to pictures of a model I’m trying to make my model look like. (More or less)

https://www.si.edu/object/letter-marque-topsail-schooner-lynx:nmah_844182
 

Gaffrig.

[Gaffrig]

Hello all!

 

Not much time for model ship building this time of the year, but I’m able to squeeze in a little here and there!

I decided to follow the sheerline as base for the gunports, and also to cut them before mounting the caprail.

One side cut out, went quite well.

 
 

Cut out the other side and lined with 0,5mm wood. 
Now time for lining again to get the little edge for the gunports to close up against. The kit doesn’t have any gunports, but I’ve decided that my model will!

 

That’s it for now. 
 

Gaffrig.

[Dr PR]

gaffrig,

 

Are you referring to gun port covers/lids? The plans clearly show gun ports (the openings the guns shoot through).

 

I have seen four basic types of gun port covers.

 

1. A hinged "door" that swings up to open the port.

2. A split port cover, with the lower half that is hinged and swings down. The upper half may be hinged to swing up, but it seems just as common for the upper half to be latched in place when closed and just removed to open the port. In some cases both halves are removable.

3. Two part doors hinged on the sides to swing open to either side of the opening. I don't think this was common on American vessels.

4. No port covers at all.

 

For the Lynx you should probably not use hinged gun port lids - at least not the single piece that swings up. Because the top of the ports is the bottom of the cap rail there is no place to mount lids that swing up (I made this mistake in my Albatros Baltimore clipper build). I think the two part port lids are more appropriate, possibly with the bottom part hinged down. It was common for the lids to have an opening that the cannon barrel protruded through - with a plug in the end of the barrel to keep water out.

 

Chapelle's drawings  of the Lynx (Mosquidobit) show the sides of the gun ports vertical, and not perpendicular to the sheer (Howard Chapelle, The Baltimore Clipper, Edward W. Sweetman Company, New York, 1968, pages 84-85). This is THE reference book for Baltimore cloppers! However, it doesn't say much about sails and rigging other than a few simple sail plans.

 

Keep in mind that the British captured the Lynx and renamed it the Mosquidobit, so most of the plans and drawings are under the latter name.

 

Karl Heintz Marquardt, The Global Schooner, Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, Maryland, USA, 2003, is the best reference I have found for masting, sails and rigging schooners that I have found. Most books talk about large square-rigged vessels and ignore schooner completely. Marquardt is the "Lees" for schooners and is very detailed.

 

I just discovered your build and I will be following. I love these schooners!

 

 

[Gaffrig]

Hello.

 

Yes, I am referring to gunport lids/covers. I found a picture of a model of lynx online, that I’m trying to replicate. (Link a couple of posts up, don’t want to post picture here because of copyright)
This model has split port covers with one hinged down and one up. This is the way I plan to do them.

Thank you for tips on reference books, I will look into them and see if they are available here.

 

Gaffrig

[Gaffrig]

Hello!

 

Work on Lynx progresses slowly..

Got all the gunports finished, and painted on one side. 
 

 

Sanded of most of the paint when lining the ports, so another coat or two is needed.

 

Next will be the caprail, and then the deck planking.

 

Gaffrig.

[Gaffrig]

Hello!

 

I’ve made the caprails and glued on to one side. 
The other dryfitted in this picture.

I then thought it would be a good idea to make the «strengthening piece» (for lack of a better word) on the inside of the transom first. This piece is not mentioned in the kit but appears in the model I use for reference. (Marked in green)

 

So I glued some pieces of wood together and started chipping away, and this is how it turned out..

 

Then before mounting it inplace I decided to cut the gunports in the transom first.

 

 

One port cut out, the piece painted and test for fit in relation to the gunport.

 

 

Both gunports cut out..

(Looking closer at the picture I see one is slightly bigger than the other! Need to adjust this!)

Now I need to clean up the edges and line the gunports. 
Then I can fix the piece and finish the caprail.

 

Slowly getting on with the build, but I’m not in a race, I enjoy every minute of it!

 

Gaffrig.

 

 

 

[Gaffrig]

Hello all!

 

Work progressing slowly..

Finished up the stern gunports, got the knee/strengthening piece inside the transom glued inplace and finished the caprail.

 

Next I think will be the deck, or maybe gunport lids. Haven’t decided yet!

 

Gaffrig.

 

[Gaffrig]

Hello all!

 

Thank you for looking in and the likes!

Work progressing slowly.. 

First coat of paint on the caprail.

Started on the deck. Using pencil for caulking and following a four step butt planking pattern.

(hatches very rough cut for now)

 

Gaffrig.

 

 

 

Edited September 11 by Gaffrig

[Gaffrig]

Hello!

 

Many thanks to all for looking in and the likes.

Just a small update today.

Working on the deck, plank by plank..

 

Gaffrig.

 

[Gaffrig]

Hello all!

 

Thanks for taking the time to look in and liking!

 

Have finished the deck...

Gave it a round of scraping.

And sanding..

 

And a coat of oil..

 

Ended up quite ok I think.

Looking through the stern porthole..

 

And a overview. Funny how the colours change with the light.

 

Now I need to clean up the hatches and start on the frames/gratings. I also need to touch up the red paint after sanding the deck.

 

Gaffrig. 

 

 

[TBlack]

Nice work on the deck. In fact, nice work on the model!

Tom

[Gaffrig]

Tom, thank you!

[Ronald-V]

Agreed with Tom! And that nibbing into the margin plank isn't easy, you did well on that  

[Gaffrig]

Ronald-V, thank you!

The nibbing is quite time consuming and fiddly work, but worth the effort I think.

[Dr PR]

Very nice. I find the nibbing to be relaxing and fun!

[Gaffrig]

Hello all!

 

Thanks for looking in and commenting and liking.

It’s very inspiring!

 

I had planned to start the deck gratings/coamings but decided to try finishing the gunport lids that is closed first.

Didn’t really have a plan for how to do this other than a general idea.

Made the port lids of scrapwood and cut a groove where they overlap eachother.

I decided to use styrene strip and rod to make the hinges. 
I imprinted with an awl on the backside to imitate bolts.

 

Glued them on with ca glue, added eyebolts and painted..

 

And added eyebolts on the inside aswell.

 

I think I have found the way to do these, as I think the result is acceptable.

 

I have also given the red another coat of paint after sanding the deck. I first brushed a coat of matt varnish along the masking tape to avoid bleeding. This worked great! No bleed at all. Recomended!

 

Gaffrig.

 

 

[Danstream]

Great details and workmanship on the gun ports and overall. I was impressed by the details of your deck. May I ask which type of wood you used for the planking of the deck?

 

3 hours ago, Gaffrig said:

I first brushed a coat of matt varnish along the masking tape to avoid bleeding.

Indeed, this is a trick that I used a lot for my plastic models. I will surely carry it over also for my ship build.

Best regards,

Dan