HMS Bounty's Jolly Boat by Peanut6 - Artesania Latina Ref. 19004 - Scale: 1:25 - First build wooden ship

[bobandlucy]

I think it looks great! Look at Model Shipyards Norwegian Sailing Pram. I did that one as my second model. It has a single sail and a simple clinker planking, which is really forgiving. There are several builds here, and all got pretty good results.

 

Bob

[ERS Rich]

Hi,

 

I like your Jolly Boat.

 

Seems to me you are on the learning curve and made it to the end with some ups and downs along the way.  The important thing is you made it through to the end!

 

Next time will be even better as you incorporate the lessons learned.

 

Keep in mind a stained exterior is more difficult and less forgiving to execute than a painted finish.  So you did it the more difficult way, on your first try, and the result looks pretty good!

 

About the stain, try using a nylon brush, I like the cheap brush sets from Walmart.  Sounds like the surface was “flooded” with stain.  Try applying the stain with a brush, like paint.  Keep the surface wet but less than “flooded”, it’s ok to apply just enough stain to keep a wet edge but sparingly so the stain soaks into the wood and dries fairly quickly, without the need to wipe off the excess.

 

Regarding CA, less is more, just a few dots to hold the piece, carpenters glue for the remainder of the seam.  This way if the piece needs to be repositioned, it’s possible to pry the piece off, as just a few dots need to give way.  Try a gel as well.  Has a bit more “open” time before it sets.

 

A master furniture maker once told me, on seeing my frustration in class that, if everyone could do the work perfectly the first time, it would be meaningless....

 

Looking forward to the next project!

 

Cheers!

[Peanut6]

Bob, thank you for the kind words, they are very encouraging.

 

ERS Rich, thank you for your encouraging words as well, they give me hope for my next build (whatever that may be).  Odd the think that staining is more difficult than painting and just my luck to have my heart set on the tough one for my first build.  I did learn a lot from my first planking, even though it took me two attempts to get it completed.  But I'm sure that I'll do better planking my next model.  Next major effort will be the rigging and getting that figured out.  I've got the "need to know why" set of mind.  I firmly believe that if you know "the why" part about something it is so much easier to figure out "the how" part.  So rigging could take me a while even though my Jolly boat has minimal rigging.  Yes, the exterior of the hull was flooded with stain.  I had never thought of using inexpensive paint brushes and I'll be sure that some find their way to my hobby tool box.  The ones I currently have are way to expensive to be considered expendable for staining purposes.  Your advice on a gel CA is also greatly appreciated and the term "open time" fits the situation perfectly.  I may have to suspend attachment of the thwart supports until I get some as darn near everything is stained.  They are bare walnut and their attachment surfaces are stained so maybe I'll have some luck using PVA.  I didn't have any issues with my bare planks attaching to my stained frames.  But maybe the tight grain of the walnut, even though it is plain, could pose a problem.

 

Thanks again everyone.

[Peanut6]

Went ahead and stained the inboard planking to match the outboard side.  It looks better than the blotchy condition I had but it sure gives the entire boat a darker look.  I’ve found that if I’m having a difficult time with something I tend to procrastinate a bit, but I finally got the aft bulwark and aft thwart installed.  Now I’m working on the thwart brackets.  It’s not difficult but each one needs some shaping to match up with the inboard side of the planking.  And with the pieces being so small it is a bit tedious.

 

Since my Jolly Boat is of a darker hue due to everything being stained or a dark wood, I’m thinking that it might not be a bad idea to paint the mast, bowsprit, boom and gaff in an aged white color.  From what I’ve seen this isn’t an unheard of thing.  My youngest daughter is an artist and she said she knows what colors we need to mix with the white to get the affect I’m after.  Acrylic is her favorite medium so I’m all set there.  What are your thoughts on this, o’ thee of greater ship building experience?

 

I’ve been thinking ahead about the rigging and sails.  The instruction book,IMHO, really leaves a lot to be desired.  Many times it instructs the builder to refer to the “Basic Tips” section for more detailed information on the topic at hand.  And of course that issue isn’t address in the slightest.  I think I have a plan based upon reading all my model ship building reference books, reading a kajillion build logs, watching just as many YouTube videos, and anything else I could find online.  But I could really use the help and advice for those more experienced than I.

 

In many build logs I’ve seen the shrouds are twisted 2+ times around the mast then down to the dead-eyes.  Has this become a common modeler’s practice?  Every reference I’ve found as to what was actually done is the they were seized at the mast.  And that is how I think I would like to handle the shrouds and stays on my Jolly Boat.  Your thoughts?

 

The instructions make no mention of belaying points.  They do point out 3 locations for lashing (item 41) shown in the running rigging photo shown and a third location at the leading jib sail clew to the bowsprit in the plans.  Yet the instructions call out 16 locations.  At most I can only come up 6.  The other 3 would be at the remaining clews of the gaff sail.  Where would the 10 be located?  The plans do call for attaching the head of the gaff sail to the gaff using a sail snake, other references call it lacing.  So that can’t be it.  I’ve seen other typos within the instructions so maybe this is another one.  My plan here is to seize a line to each clew and then seize the other end at their appropriate locations on the bowsprit, boom and gaff.  What do you think?

 

 

As for the sails, my Jolly Boat came with pre-made sails.  They already have a bolt rope attached around the perimeter with preformed clews at each corner.  The bolt rope is sewn/basted to the sails using an approximate 1/4” pitch stitch.  They say to use rings (item 43) to attach the jib sail (item 87) and fore top mast stay sail (item 84) to their appropriate stays.  They use a different set of rings to attach the gaff sail to the mast.  The jib and fore top mast stay sail halyards (items 88 and 85) run thru a double block attached just above the mast cheeks.  The jib and fore top mast stay sheets attach to their respective trailing clews while their leading clews are lashed (item 41) to the bowsprit.  The gaff halyard (item 82) attaches to the gaff halyard ring (item 81) and runs thru a single block attached higher up the mast.  The boom lift runs thru a single block attached to the mast just above the cheeks.  I’ve all that figured out and I believe I understand how and why it works.  Is it safe to assume that the rings encompass the accessible sections of the bolt rope between the sewn/basted stitches?

 

Back to the belaying points.  My research leads me to firmly believe that my Jolly Boat was too small to warrant a fife rail with belaying pins and maybe, just maybe, it might have possibly used belaying pins, but not very likely.  So what I’m thinking of using are cleats.  What if I run the jib and fore tap mast stay sheets to two cleats mounted at the bow end just aport of the mast on the mast thwart?  The bowsprit anchors to the mast atop a bowsprit support on the starboard side and I think this location balances things a bit.

 

Now for the halyards and lift lines.  I’m thinking of attaching 4 cleats on the mast 90 degrees apart oriented 45 degrees of the center line, low but above the bowsprit.  I can run the jib and fore top mast stay halyards on the port side.  I would think they should be together so they are not fighting each other against the double block.  Then run the gaff halyard and boom lift lines on the 2 cleats on the starboard side.  How does that sound?

 

I believe all that is left is this situation.

 

 

I understand it is to keep the boom restricted to a functional arc but the location has got to be all wrong.  It interferes with the tiller.  I’ve decided I want to copy JMaitri’s lead in his Jolly Boat build log where he installed horse on the aft thwart right at the transom.  I wasn’t able to see a good close up to find out how he handled the entire situation.  I thought I had come up with a plan, and I’m aware that the double block is oriented incorrectly but it made following the running line easier.

 

 

I asked a question in the rigging section and that is where I found that a cleat wouldn’t appear on the boom of a boat like this.  So I don’t know what to do.  Anybody have any suggestions?

[allanyed]

Hi Kev,

Great catch! Horses were indeed in use on British ship's boats from the mid 18th century due to the problem with the sheets getting in the way of the tiller.   It was put on the transom as you show.  Remember that a double block had holes side by side unless they used long tackle blocks which had holes one above the other.  Perhaps this is what was on the Bounty launch.   I realize the kit calls the boat a jolly boat, but if this is supposed to be the boat on which Bligh sailed away, it would be a launch which was bigger than a jolly boat and constructed much differently.   As mentioned in your other post Artesania Latina sells the same kit in different packaging and calls it the Captain boat for the Spanish ship San Juan Nupomuceno  

 

As suggested in your other post, if you go to the free download of Steel's Elements of Rigging and go to boat rigging chapter you will find a lot of contemporary details on rigging your boat although it is a bit confusing and as it sends you back and forth referencing one boat as a guide for others until you eventually get to what you want.  Still it does have a lot of information you may be able to use now or on future projects.    https://maritime.org/doc/steel/

Cheers

 

Allan

 

 

Edited July 15, 2021 by allanyed

[Peanut6]

Just realized I can't put the cleats on the mast, they will interfere with the rings for the gaff sail.  Guess I'll have to put them on the deck (item 13).  Go with a pair port and a pair starboard.  Already trying to make some cleats while my thwart braces are drying.  Crossing my fingers they turn out decent.   Also figured out what I'm going to do regarding my little sketch above.  Do as initially planned but I'll be putting the cleat on the aft thwart (item 19). 

 

Edited July 18, 2021 by Peanut6
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[Peanut6]

Got come cleats made yesterday in between thwart bracket attachments (only one more to go).  Obviously not all that good and I’m sure they are out of scale.  But IMHO not too terribly bad for a first attempt considering it was freehand.  Need to clean them up just a bit and hope I don’t break any.  I’m praying they look half way acceptable when I dry-locate a couple in the boat.

 

[HardeeHarHar]

So I have to add some encouragement to the build.  I think you are doing a good job and have accomplished a lot of detail and craftsmanship.  I am excited to see how it turns out in the end, and if you have any specific questions I can try to help (but I am just learning my self).  Having recently completed the Bounty's Launch myself, I found myself doing a lot more thinking and reading than I had ever expected.  I stained my build some what "uniquely", and the stain bled through just like you said, but I liked the "used" look it gave the interior.  I also had to make my own thwarts, and did a few things to break pieces along the way, but persevered to a point where the final result was simply satisfaction enough.  I'll never forget staring at the rigging in the instructions, and the mess of fabric, string, and metal hoops in front of me...and wondering how do you start, and when do you pull things tight, and do you glue it and figure it out later....for a week or two.  It finally made sense one day and I could picture how to complete the running rigging and then pull everything up at once and into place.  It sounds strange to talk about it now, but it just made sense and I could picture it happening in my head.  When I finished it and it looked pretty good, I was HOOKED.  After all that time and effort, and figuring it out with the help of the forum, it still looked pretty good when I was done with it, and that was a huge success above my original goal to just not total it.  I made a Bounty voyage map-base like some one else had done on the forum, and I laced the oars together nicely and placed them decoratively on the base (two sets of 3 oars laced together, one for the front and one for the back of the base, that was my own touch).  I'm working on the HMS Granado now, and it is really challenging my basic noobie skills, and I am again loving the steep learning curve....but very slowly....

[Peanut6]

HHH, your post of encouragement is ever so timely.  As I read thru every sentence I found myself nodding in agreement.  In sharing your experiences, it's as if you were looking over my shoulder as I've traveled down this path of my first build.  I also seemed to have the light bulb of understanding come on out of nowhere regarding my rigging.  Though I've asked for input regarding my plan, what I'm thinking makes sense to me as I understand things and unless someone speaks up I'm going with it.  Research can be very difficult when one doesn't have a firm grasp of the terminology of the craft.  I start looking into something and find a word I don't understand who's definition contains another word I don't understand which contains . . . . on and on until I finally get to the end.  By that time I can't seem to retrace my steps to where I ran down the rabbit hole.  And I've actually come across the statement "same as 'fill in the blank" only simpler".  If you happen to have any suggestions regarding my rigging thoughts that you would like to share, I sure would be greatly appreciative. 

[Peanut6]

A little update.  I’ve installed the aft most thwart, transom bulwark, thwart braces, the bow ring-eye and made the cutouts for the oars (which I stained afterwards).

 

 

From top to bottom is the newly turned one piece mast, newly turned boom, previously turned bowsprit, newly turned gaff.  All but the bowsprit still need to be cut to length.  

 

 

I've also shaped the cheeks and bowsprit support that attach to the mast.  The instructions tell you to fabricate the sails based upon the plans.  My kit, as with other Jolly Boat builders, came with pre-made sails which are larger than those shown in the plans.  But the plans don’t make the necessary adjustments in the boom, gaff, mast and bowsprit lengths.  So I had to re-turn my gaff and boom.  I hadn’t cut my bowsprit to length yet so I was able to use it as it was.  The instructions have you make a 2 piece mast.  At the time I couldn’t understand why.  How was one to create a perpendicular cut to the axis of two tapered pieces at the exact diameter of 2 dowels to create a butt joint which presents such a weak point in an important piece.  This sure seemed to be an unnecessary exercise in model building.  At the time, after the fact as my luck goes, it was suggested that I could/should get a length of dowel and make a single piece mast.  That is indeed what I did this time around.  Based upon my career experience, I’m now of the belief that AL’s decision to go with a two piece mast was simply a cost savings for them.  If the box is of industry standard size, flute and configuration (which I strongly suspect), if the insert can be used for more than one model (which is probable) then the savings to use the same box and insert for multiple models far outweighs the cost of a possible extra photos and paragraphs per applicable model instructions.

Edited July 25, 2021 by Peanut6
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[HardeeHarHar]

Yo Kev,

It is looking very nice my good man.  Looking at your work makes me remember that I didn't accommodate the oars on my launch so I didn't make the cut outs in the hull.  I put the oars on display on the stand as I mentioned before.  Your notes about the mast being fabricated from two parts brought that memory back out of no where!  I definitely remember all too well that feeling of WTF you get when you see *that* in the instructions.  I did follow right along like a lemming over a cliff and attempted to follow along as best I could.  So, I stuck a piece of one of the brass nails provided in the kit (that I had cut the head off of) into a hole I drilled into the end of the big section of the mast and glued it in place.  Then drilled a hole in the other (abutting) part of the mast and stuck the two together via the common "head-less" nail.  Buahahaha. 😃   I need to make some progress on my own build one day!  Good luck and calm seas, tight lines

BT 

[HardeeHarHar]

I found these references that my air-conditioning and heating repair person had recommended for nice arm chair book editions for the ship modeler.  You have to try and find them at reasonable prices and grab em then if you can.  I hope its not impolite to be dropping pictures in peoples build logs like this, but if it is, you or someone should tell me.

[Peanut6]

HHH, I did consider using the "headless nail" method but I can't drill a straight hole to save my life.  Maybe better stated, the hole is always straight because the bit is, but it's never in the proper alignment.  Always cocked/tilted one way or another.  So for me, that method went out the window.  The way you handled the oars is an interesting touch, something I wouldn't have thought of.  I'm not sure what I'm going to do with mine.  I read your current build log and look forward to following you along your journey.  I am always receptive to anyone who offers help, tips, suggestions, hints, clues and any reference materials.  As this is my build log, I have no problem with others adding photos.  I know that a picture can jog a memory better than a title and author's name so if it helps me it may very well help someone else who might visit my build log.  Thank you.  Not being the tightest shroud on deck, the second photo looks as it shows the basic details of each line.  That is the information this newbie needs the most.  Most everything I find seems to be directed towards those who know what is going on and just need a quick/simple reminder.  I look at it like this, if I don't know/understand the most basic rigging how can I understand the more complex situations.  Anyway, thanks again for your comments as they are greatly appreciated.   

[Peanut6]

Since my last update post I’ve made some progress though it doesn’t deserve any photos.  The bowsprit has been stained.  The boom and gaff halyard have been stained and their jaws attached.  The mast has been stained and now has the cheeks and bowsprit support installed including a spacer I had to fabricate.  All metal work for mast attachment has been completed.  The metal bowsprit support at the bow has been formed but not cut to length nor the attachment hole(s) installed.  The supports for the display stand have been stained and attached (name plate still go go).  The oars have been shaped with a handle and stained, the blades have been stained and attached.  The rudder has been stained and the pintles have been attached.  The top gudgeon is in place.  I’m having a bit of an issue with the bottom gudgeon.  There is a step between the hull planking and the stern post due to a rabbit not being present.  I just know that if I try to bend the gudgeon to fit, I’ll wind up really messing things up and probably breaking the gudgeon.  And of course the thru holes for attaching the gudgeon are hitting way too close to joins between the planking and also at the stern post and false keel for my liking.  I’m very concerned about splitting when the nails are installed.  I’m hoping that when I even up the distance between the rudder and the transom down the length it puts these holes in a better position.  To handle the the step I’m thinking of tapering the plank area down to the stern post only where the gudgeon is, and doing so ever so slightly.  Trying to make the transition a little less drastic.  I’m having minimal success using CA on the metal work, even though I’ve tried to ensure that the surfaces are clean and “finger oil” free.  As much as I don’t like it, I’m counting on the nails to secure these pieces.  The fact that I’ve had to trim the nails to length to ensure they don’t pass thru the material also adds to my worries.  The troubles I’ve dealt with are self imposed and/or from the lack of clarity in the instruction manual.  I’ve gone back to previous posts to add “Advisory Notes” where the instructions, IMHO, caused me problems in hope that it might help others.  I’ll go into more detail on self imposed problems in my next update where pictures will be necessary to fully explain.  I plan on doing that when the rudder, mast and bowsprit are attached.

[HardeeHarHar]

Any progress deserves photos 😃  I do remember the issues with gluing metal, hoping nails will do their job, etc.  In my experience I didn't have too much of a fit problem with the gudgeon, but getting the placement and alignment so the rudder was hung at the right level was the challenge I faced.  Mine didn't come out that pretty, but the over-all look is still not that bad when all is said and done.

[Peanut6]

Having a very very tough day so I decided to walk away and find my happy place.  While positioning the top gudgeon the aft bulwark popped off, CA doing wonders for me again.  Shook my head, said a few bad words and tried to continue forward.  Finally got the top gudgeon positioned and nailed in.  I had been putting my little Jolly Boat on the stand and removing it multiple times while trying to position the bottom gudgeon.  I had finally got it positioned correctly and set it back on the stand and noticed the right pedestal wobble just a bit, CA doing wonders for me again.  Immediately looked thru my scrap bin of wood screws and found 2 of the right length and diameter to seriously attach the pedestals when they finally come loose, which I know they will.  I continued with the bottom gudgeon and got the first nail location marked when a nail of the top gudgeon had worked it's way loose.  I grabbed some CA and applied just the tiniest of dots to the nail end.  By the time I got the nail started back into its hole the glue was setting up and I still had about 1/64" to go, CA doing wonders for me again.  Just enough space to make the gudgeon wiggle.  Grabbed the needle nose and was able to remove the nail and of course the other nail came loose.  So far, in trying to get the gudgeons installed, I've made negative progress.  I believe I'll spend the rest of the day adjusting my attitude in hope that tomorrow will be a bit more gentle and kind.  As I'm getting closer finishing my Jolly Boat I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.  But after days like this, I'm starting to believe that what I'll find at the end is a gorilla holding a flashlight. 

[HardeeHarHar]

Hang in there.  Positive vibes being sent your way.

[Peanut6]

I haven't abandoned my little Jolly Boat.  Just ran into a few obstacles, finally got a job after a very long lay-off which cuts into work at the shipyard.  But the biggest hurdle is the weather, 85+ with humidity not far behind makes it just way too hot to be working in the garage.  The heat index has had us pushing 100 if not exceeding it most days over the last 3 weeks.  Moving the shipyard indoors is out of the question because I'm afraid our 2 cats would insist upon adding their own bashing ideas to my project.

[HardeeHarHar]

Hey Kev,

Congratulations on the new job!!!  I am glad there is no giving up on the ship-builder in you, but I can certainly appreciate the fact that working in the heat and humidity of the garage is not optimal.  I hope you get a good rainy day where you don't have to work at your real job.  To state the obvious, I am not making a lot of progress on my Granado lately either.  Currently it is a few hundred miles away, but tomorrow it will be back within arm's reach.  Let's hope I get some motivation and a good rain storm as well, and that my wife's patience is eternal.

Best regards, and congratulations again!

Brian

[Peanut6]

Well temperature and humidity have dropped to a comfortable level again so I'm back at it.  As I'm getting older I find I can no longer handle those conditions like I once could.  Ok, got the top gudgeon reattached.  I'm having a bear of a time getting the bottom gudgeon positioned.  Even with clamping the rudder to keel, I just don't have enough hands to keep the gudgeon in the proper position and get a nail started.  I convinced myself that I could conquer this problem and would just power thru it.  The problem for me is the step from the planking down to the stern stem compounded by the geometry in the area just wants to make the gudgeon push back towards the rudder and slide down towards the keel.  After many failed attempts causing my frustration level to rise, once again I stepped back.  I logged into MSW to see how others handled this situation.  During a "Jolly Boat" search where I could find close up photos of the stern/rudder I noticed 2 things.  About half of the modelers either formed a rabbit or thinned the planks to give that appearance, the other half had some very good metal skills to bend the brass just right.  I had thought of trying to make the necessary bends in my gudgeon but after my mast truss experience I knew that approach was beyond my skill level.  I half thought of trimming down the area just under the gudgeon location to help my cause but quickly decided against it.  So I'm thinking the best way to go is break out the sandpaper and work the aft end of my planks to make the transition acceptable.  I just wished I had known this was going to be an issue before I installed the keel and stern stem.  I probably should go back and add another advisory note for future builders.

Edited October 9, 2021 by Peanut6
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[Peanut6]

Got on the busy side of the sandpaper and worked the appropriate planks as needed.

 

 

As you can see, even thou I was careful, I scuffed up the stern post and keel just a bit.  It slid right into place, and more importantly stayed right where I had positioned it.  A bit of touch up with the appropriate stains and I think I'm good to go.

 

 

 

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I'm still concerned about how close the one clearance hole is to the edge of the stern post.  I hope it doesn't split on me when I install the nails.  I've done things such that the rudder can be removed from the boat.  One of the things I did was elongate the the slots in the rudder so it can be pulled so that there is clearance of the pin bottom and the gudgeon.  And the other was not reducing the pin opening in the gudgeon, thus giving a bit more clearance for installation/removal.  The remainder of the brass rod the pins were cut from is intended to be used for the tiller on the rudder.  But I'll be using that to make a horse for the boom tackle, rather than the method shown in the instructions.  And not wanting to buy more, I've got to come up with something else (not to mention the fact that I can't drill a hole without getting it cocked every which way but straight).  I've got a plan which I think will work, and it will also be removable.

 

So what's with the moving/removable parts you might ask.  I believe it all goes back to my plastic model building days as a kid.  Back then you proved you building skills to your buddies (and of course you had to do that) if you could make all of the movable features of the model work flawlessly and not look goofy.  Say with a model car, do the wheels spin true, can you open the hood and is it installed squarely, if it was a convertible are there ugly gaps when the top was in place and could you remove it, if available can you turn the wheels with the steering wheel without it catching or getting stuck.  My pride and joy was my Vought F4 Corsair model.  Of course the propeller turned, the canopy opened, the wheels spun true, the landing gear could be extended and retracted with the cover fitting flush, the rudder moved and all the flaps flapped, but best of all not only did the wings fold up but also would fold back for storage below deck.  I saved up a long time to be able to buy that kit.  Well the only thing I could come up with on my Jolly Boat was the rudder, the oars don't count.  The Jolly Boat being what is, I just couldn't envision seeing it stowed on deck with the rudder in place, so I've got to make it possible to remove it.  There ya' go, the silly story behind my fixation which I'm sure nobody cares about nor wanted to read, as if anyone made it this far into my build log.

[HardeeHarHar]

Well, I will say one thing is for certain.  You are doing a much better job on your jolly boat than I managed. It looks great!  I like the fact that you are focused on making it as real-life as possible, with removable rudder, etc.  That kind of thinking was way over my head in design and construction.  I haven't even fixed the keel on my launch, and it looks terribly wonky and is certainly more noticeable than I would like.  But I figured if I tried to fix it, it might go one step forward, three steps back, and I didn't want that to happen.  I also never worried about nails splitting wood on my Jolly Boat model, because if I was worried, I would have simply glued the gudgeon, and then cut the heads from the nails and glued them on to look lie they were actual nails.  The more I learn, the more willing I am to try new things out or redo something that doesn't look right or is simply wrong.  Every aspect of this hobby, from construction, to staining, painting and finishing methods are entirely new skills I am learning from scratch.  Despite my lack of skills and experience and irrational fears, I am trying to enjoy the process, improve my knowledge and skill sets, and avoid mistakes.  I also do absolutely enjoy your approach to your build log, where you provide your rationale and reasoning.  Keep up the good work, it is looking great and your hard work is paying off!  

Oh yeah, one more item:  I think I used a paper clip to make the horse out of, it was the right diameter, etc.

Edited October 13, 2021 by HardeeHarHar

[VTHokiEE]

You've got a very nice build on your hands there!

On 10/12/2021 at 8:09 PM, Peanut6 said:

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I'm still concerned about how close the one clearance hole is to the edge of the stern post.

Do you think you could pre-drill the hole for the nail to avoid splitting the stern post? Another possible alternative is to use a nail for the first hole (along with some glue) and then trim the second nail down so its more for looks than anything else?

[Peanut6]

VTHokiEE, thank you for visiting my build log and especially giving me a suggestion, I greatly appreciate it.  I am going to have to trim the nails down regardless, those provided with the kit are nearly as long as the thickness of the wood.  I don't know where my mind is at, of course pre-drilling will solve the potential problem.  I have pre-drilled every nail/eye insertion up to this point.  I do have tendency to over think things and/or get hung up about something such that I just don't see the obvious, kind of a "can't see the forest for the trees" thing.  I guess that when I saw how close the hole was to the edge my mind just quit processing.  I would love to use CA to help hold things together but I've had varied success using it on the brass to wood interfaces and I'm concerned that it'll get smeared all over the place while I position the gudgeon correctly and/or set up before I do get it into place.  I plan on getting things positioned properly and using a bit of CA on the length of the nail and hope just a tidge rides up to the head of the nail to help affix it to the gudgeon.

[VTHokiEE]

23 minutes ago, Peanut6 said:

I'm concerned that it'll get smeared all over the place while I position the gudgeon correctly and/or set up before I do get it into place. 

That’s a very valid concern, you only want the slightest amount of CA (I apply mine with a needle that I stuck in a dowel) but even so that’s a very valid concern. 

[HardeeHarHar]

I agree with you both, you have to watch out for the CA smearage.  However, I have recently learned that masking the area you don't want smearage on with tamiya kamoi masking tape appears to be successful in preventing that from happening to any great extent.  I also agree that using CA very sparingly, with a needle or a pin is often more than sufficient.  If I didn't use CA, I think I would be lost and have to quit building (I simply have no patience and faith in most PVA applications, and even less experience 😃 

[VTHokiEE]

56 minutes ago, HardeeHarHar said:

However, I have recently learned that masking the area you don't want smearage on

…how have I never thought about doing this… thank you for the tip! What a great idea.

Edited October 14, 2021 by VTHokiEE

[Peanut6]

VTHokiEE and HHH, I also use either a needle or a toothpick to apply glue, PVA or CA.  The masking is an excellent idea, again where is my head?  I have nearly an entire roll so no worries there.  Don't know where I'd without both of you guys help today.  Earlier today I hit the affected areas of the planks with 220 grit sandpaper to match what I used prior to staining the hull.  Since then I've done 2 rounds of stain application to match the rest of the hull.  Got my son to take a look and confirm I'm not quite there yet.  If I remember correctly I did either 3 or 4 when I thought I was done with the hull.  But now I'm just going to go till it matches.  The red oak stain, the darker hue, should only take one application.  Crossing my fingers I'll have the rudder installed in a few days.  I want to make sure the newly stained hull area is completely dry before I use any CA.  Thanks again, your visits and comments are greatly appreciated.

[Peanut6]

AAARRRGGGHHHH!!!  I can't win for losing.  Got the hull, keel, stern post touched up with stain and let it dry.  Fixed my stand by pulling off both pedestals which were glued on and used screws to attach them securely to the base.  Got the rudder clamped in place so I could get the bottom gudgeon properly positioned.  The first nail I tried to use shot out of my tweezers into the Twilight Zone.  No problem because I've got more than enough, just trim another one and I'm good to go.  I get the first nail installed into the stern post and feeling pretty good at this point.  Then, as I'm positioning the second nail the stern post just comes loose.  As I remove the clamp and rudder the stern post falls onto my work bench as well as the aft portion of my keel.  Lately I just can't seem to avoid the "one step forward, two steps behind" scenario.  It's driving me bonkers. 

Edited October 17, 2021 by Peanut6
typo

[HardeeHarHar]

In the immortal words of the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy:  DON'T PANIC!  All will be well in the end.  Breathe deep, breathe deep, breathe deep again, and overcome adversity.  Of course, adjusting one's attitude is often called for in this endeavor...  Just be thankful you didn't cut the keel off before you attached the stern post like some knucklehead I know once did (yes, you know that's me =).  I work with mass spectrometers that have intricate little parts to focus charged molecules (ions), and there were some spring clips on the ionization sources that we used to call "Jesus clips", because when they shot off into the ether never to be found again you instinctively yelled "Oh Jesus!"  If you let your wife, children, neighbors, or dogs/cats (or any other living thing  loose in the area) , I can assure you they will find it by either having it stick into their foot or by eating it and throwing up the remnants.  Also, to make you feel better, I have just spent a few hours working on two tiny timberheads that have to be perfectly fit into the bullwarks on the Granado, and I held on to them for dear life.  Presently, I think I can still locate them, stain them, and use them as intended.  However, what they are used for, I have no idea yet.  Hang in there, and fight back.  You got this!  P.S.  Perhaps that is why I prefer CA over nails, because CA doesn't fly away into the ether.  It can always be found, right on my fingers....

Edited October 17, 2021 by HardeeHarHar