HMS Bounty by AdamA - 1:48

[AdamA]

A bit more sanding is needed but these hawse frames are much better than the original set I built.

[AdamA]

The starboard hawse frames are mostly finished. The port side is just starting to come together. I used a Microlux table saw with the blade at the proper angle to cut four parallel slots into the block that will eventually be sanded down to the first cant frames. Its not pretty at the beginning but it guarantees a proper fit in those joints.

[AdamA]

This will be frame 8 port side. 

[allanyed]

Just a thought when assembling the futtocks and floor and such....  When I print out the individual frames, I print one on label paper which will be cut into pieces and stuck on the pre-thicknessed pieces of wood and a second print out on plain paper.  When assembling and gluing, it is done on top of the plain paper copy so I know that they are perfectly aligned.    

Allan

[AdamA]

Here's another progress pic of the aft of the hawse frames. I see a lot of people prefer to build them on the stem but I found it easier to get the angles to meet on all the joints if I can place them on my tools.

[AdamA]

21 hours ago, allanyed said:

Just a thought when assembling the futtocks and floor and such....  When I print out the individual frames, I print one on label paper which will be cut into pieces and stuck on the pre-thicknessed pieces of wood and a second print out on plain paper.  When assembling and gluing, it is done on top of the plain paper copy so I know that they are perfectly aligned.    

Allan

Funny you should mention it because the frame I made in the picture above came out all wrong lol. It had too much curve somehow. I straightened it overnight in a vice. I'm going to use your method on the next one.

Edited January 14, 2022 by AdamA

[allanyed]

Please post your results and let us know how it goes.  I am adding another photo we show in the Euryalus book and is a step I still often use.    The blocks are scrap steel cutoffs that I got from a local machine shop for free many years ago and are still quite useful.  There are pieces of scrap wood that you can see in the photo so the steel blocks stay flat on the futtocks.

 

Allan

 

Edited January 15, 2022 by allanyed

[AdamA]

I'm using the faired sacrificial first set of frames to give me the correct shape for the new frames. Since I'm doing this all with pencil and paper, instead of with computer aided design, most of my original frames had the chocks and scarfs either off centered or faired away altogether. This time they should all end up pretty close to perfectly centered. Also, all the joint lines will flow down the hull correctly from frame to frame this time. I might have to start using a computer for my next ship.

Edited January 14, 2022 by AdamA

[AdamA]

2 hours ago, allanyed said:

Please post your results and let us know how it goes.  I am adding another photo we show in the Euryalus book and is step I still often use.    The blocks are scrap steel cutoffs that I got from a local machine shop for free many years ago and are still quite useful.  There are pieces of scrap wood that you can see in the photo so the steel blocks stay flat on the futtocks.

 

Allan

 

You can see the port side frame that i had to clamp overnight glued onto the aft side of those unsanded hawse frames I posted.

[AdamA]

There are a few minor scratches I'm going to fix but otherwise these are much cleaner than the first set.

[AdamA]

I used this page of McKay as well as the overhead view of the frames for the angles.

[AdamA]

I absolutely this Japanese pull saw. It is extremely easy to make straight cuts down into frames for stanchions.

[AdamA]

I added the two tall stanchions to the hawse timbers.

[AdamA]

I ripped all the rest of my first big board into quite a few thin boards for the frames. I have one big board of Swiss Pear drying.

[AdamA]

[AdamA]

The cant frame pieces are roughed out.

[AdamA]

I rough cut the scarf joints and chock joints on the band saw, careful not to get too close to the paper. I take each one to the bench vice for making the final cuts with my chisels and sanding block and razor saw.

[AdamA]

Frame 9.

[AdamA]

[allanyed]

These look good.   They are obviously overly heavy regarding the moulded dimension, as they should be, to allow fairing, but you might want to reduce the moulded dimension a little more before erecting the frames.  The fairing can be done either way, but as the top timber moulded dimension is probably in the neighborhood of 4" at the top,  maybe get it down to something a little closer before setting them in place.   Whatever works best for you is the way to go, but I have done it both ways and find the less fairing needed the more I like it.

Continuing to enjoy your log, thanks for sharing.

Allan

 

 

[AdamA]

They will all be much thinner by half. These were sanded with a course drum first. Here's a few more.

[AdamA]

I decided to correct the length of the keel by 10 inches. I disassembled the keel and made a slightly longer third section. 

[AdamA]

The keel and false keel need to dry then I can link it back up with the fore half of the keel assembly.

[AdamA]

I cut these grooves in the last frames to accept the ends of the seven transoms. I marked them on the front. The blade needed a 6° tilt.

[AdamA]

The transoms will be the same style as the bow:

[AdamA]

More rebuilding.... I'm constantly confused about angles and shapes and tapers and lengths and widths when it comes to these cant frames. They are 95% curved and they connect to 9 other non-standard, curved shaped pieces. It's slow going.

[AdamA]

I'm rebuilding the transoms so they all fit into their groove on the aftmost stern cant frames. This will be transom number 1 (replacing the one next to it) and it is going to have its own grooves to accept the fashion and filling pieces that lay up against the inner stern post and deadwood.

[AdamA]

It took some patience but I think these pieces are all seated well enough to glue up.

[AdamA]

Now that I have the first transom and can't frames in place, I can cut the rest of the fashion and filler pieces so they fit into their slots.

[AdamA]

Aaaaand she's in. Starboard fashion piece glued.