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HMCS Snowberry by Hsae - Revell - 1/72 - PLASTIC


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i had to learn to solder, it is getting better as i tend to find reasons to do it now, learnt about different temp solders and found carrs green brilliant

the etch primer i should think is out of date now

i hate airbrushing, hence abandoned the build, i have a decent compressor, evolution guns, and never ever got a decent result on anything

 

 

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Thank you for all the comments and likes.🙃

 

Kevin, thank you for posting the photos. It is tough to find Carr’s soldering stuff here in the US. So far I am happy what I have. I only need more praxis to get nice clean soldering lines. 😉

For what we’re you using the Phoenix Precision products. Is it just a cleaner & primer?  

Edited by Hsae
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For same time I am fuzzing around with replicating rivets. I got the decal rivets from Archer ($$$) and HGW Models ($). The rivets from Archer seems to be a little bit better than HGW, but the final verdict is not out yet. I have to do some more testing.

 

I was also trying to replicate rivets with a syringe & glue. The best glue so far was Titebond. The results are quite promising. The challenge is here to get them lined up and with the same distance between them. I was thinking to make a template for accomplishing this task.

 

Does anybody have experience with replicate rivets? 
 

The top rows are with Elmers, the lower rows are with Titebond.

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According to an article (In Tribute to Riveted Ships by Harry Benford) the rivet diameter is: “They varied in diameter from
1/2 inch to 1 1/4 inch in 1/8 inch increments …”

In a scale of 1/72 we would get with a rivet diameter of say 0.75” in real life, a Modell rivet of 0.01” or 0.26 mm

Edited by Hsae
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And finally I was working on the anchor windlass. The photo etched parts are phenomenal, you can even see the threads.

However I still have to decide how I am add the band breaks. 
And I guess I have to paint the anchor windlass white, how it be can seen at the Snowberry photo.

 

 

 

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Excellent work  - thinking outside the box  to make things extra real  - love it.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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I just got some mail … I finally got my scuttle set & the Hedgedog from a US vendor. I took about 4 weeks to get it.

And I got a “test” shipment from NZ. It took about 3 weeks. They shipped it the same day I ordered it! The packing is excellent, and the parts are phenomenal! 👍👍👍

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Edited by Hsae
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Thank you for all the thumbs up and the comments!

 

I was working on the scuttles. I made a little helper and it worked like a charm. Unfortunately I ran into a problem. The aft portholes are bigger than the other portholes. You are happy that the work goes as planned until you hit a problem. But for every problem there is an answer. So I guess I have to fill the portholes and drill them out to the appropriate size. Thankfully there are only eight.
Btw, the photo etch parts are awesome! They even put even some gun sights next to the scuttles.

 


 

 

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Edited by Hsae
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I had to add two portholes. Starboard & port side approx. 35 mm from the edge. I pre-drilled with a 1/8” drill bit and used after that a #27 (0.1440”) drill bit for the perfect whole size. As well I had to close one porthole at the port side (left) and three at the starboard side (right).

 

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My basic photo etch tools:

 

- LED magnifying head band (an absolutely must) I never used the LED’s though. The nice thing with one, you can change magnification

- Etch Mate for bending

- some good tweezers 

- sticky pen, comes in handy for positioning small parts

- chisel (you can use a hobby knife with sharp blade too)

- plexiglass ( black, leftover from a project) for cutting photo etch on it

- fine sand paper to remove any “leftovers” on the parts

- thin super glue 

- “regular” super glue

- solder iron 

- flux

- solder

 

 

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After looking at the photos from my Hedgehog several times, I decided to build a new Hedgehog. Order went out to GLS this afternoon. Photos are pretty good to discover mistakes. What looks good from the distance, doesn’t look so good anymore closely.

I am hoping I am avoiding the previous mistakes. We shall see …

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On 7/11/2021 at 6:13 PM, Hsae said:

Quite a difference between the kit hedgehog and the GLS hedgehog. If I might say!

That is an understatement!

I built one of the very first Matchbox kits when they first came out in 1979, and even then I was disappointed with the general detail on what was then a very large model. Spent many years sailing many a lake or pond in all kinds of weather. It now sits retired on the basement shelf. A little worn and a bit beat, but could be sailing again tomorrow if I still had the RC gear.

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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I keep thinking that I would like to do it again using the decks, PE and especially 3D items available today. The only problem is that when you RC a model, especially when you use it as often as I did mine, things get broken, and small delicate things get broken even faster. Almost all of the more delicate items on mine were replaced with scratch items made from brass sheet, rod, and tubing long ago.

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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I totally agree. I have some workboats & sailing boats in 1/25 and 1/48 and if you transport / handling / launch them, there always parts which break. Even though I built them robust. 
In my option fine details are only useful for models which a ideally under glass (dust is a big problem).

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17 minutes ago, Hsae said:

(dust is a big problem).

After years of being retired and sitting on a basement shelf I took pity on my poor Corvette and ended up filling the bathtub and sinking her, (After removing all of the RC and running gear). I used a fairly large and soft paint brush and mopped everything down. She looked almost new when I was done. Probably would not be a possible resolution if the ship was not plastic.

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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