Providence by Eurus - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:25 - whaleboat

[Eurus]

 

Hello, and welcome to my first build log in the MSW forums.

 

This is a kit from the Spanish manufacturer Artesanía Latina. It is labeled as suitable for beginners, however, there are several details that increase the difficulty somewhat, mainly because of omissions or lack of clarity in the instructions. It is not too complex to build, but I still would not recommend it to a total noobie, unless they already have some experience with other kits—like plastic—or wood working in general. Some familiarity with nautical terms will surely help.

 

I bought it from Amazon USA in 2018, but apparently all Artesanía Latina kits have become scarcer since. I picked it up for two main reasons: I wanted to practice my technique with something easy and cheap that I wouldn't mind too much if I botched something, and my love for 1800-era ships and the whaling industry in general.

 

Since I have some experience with other engineering, hobby and DIY house projects, I already had most of the necessary tools and instruments.

 

Without further ado, this is what happened:

 

 

I will refer to the small pictures in a normal, Western-style reading order (left to right, top to bottom).

 

In the first two pictures: frames and keel are fitted and glued. Some of them had to be properly aligned using clothespins. bow and stern reinforcements were glued in place too. The instructions are not too clear about these.

 

Pictures 3 and 4 shows an ad hoc solution for holding the wooden parts in place: clothespins are too weak, but the foldback paper clamps are too strong and damage the soft wood. To prevent this, tissue paper is used over the contact surfaces. Some planks had to be soaked in warm water to allow for better shaping and curving. Five minutes submerged was enough, and the shaping was done by hand. All were previously cut to the proper size and sanded.

 

If everything looks neat and clean that's because it is. Every part is first sanded to a smooth finish, and then glued to the kit. This proved useful later, saving time and unnecessary hassle. I carefully studied beforehand the whole instruction booklet, and every visible part will be given this special treatment from the beginning.

 

In picture 5 some weight is added to keep the centerboard in place while the glue dries. The first floor planks have been glued too.

 

Pictures 6 and 7 show the last planks being glued and the inner "tub" ready.

 

In picture 8 you can see the sanding and shaping of the keel, bow and stern (close-up detail in picture 9). The tools used can be seen in the background. This particular kind of boat is designed to be highly manoeuverable and speedy, so both ends are symmetric in case a quick reversal of direction is needed.

 

Up next: the clinker hull.

 

[Jim Lad]

You've made a nice start on that.

 

John

[bruce d]

Looks good!

[Eurus]

 

As promised, we continue with the hull of the Providence. Clinker-hulled vessels are wonderful to look at, and they evoke speed and agility in their beautiful, streamlined shapes. They remind us of precision work by the shipwrights of yore, curving materials into seemingly impossible positions—the wood appears to literally bend to their will.

 

There’s a proper way to do this clinker-planking. Most amateurs tend to make a huge mess out of this. Fortunately, I’m not one of them. Armed with a ton of research and the image of the gorgeous ancient Viking hulls set firmly in my mind, I set on to tackle the next challenge.

 

In the pictures: the process of gluing the hull’s planks in place.

 

 

I had already experimented with soaked planks before to excellent results, so I repeated the procedure here. I bought a small soldering iron at a local electronics store to help with the plank bending without risking them breaking, but in the end I did not use it. However, it proved invaluable further on, as we shall later see.

 

Just like before, all the planks were sanded to a smooth finish before soaking and gluing. This made all the difference.

 

I tried to get the curvature right, and also symmetrical on both sides. Even with the soaked planks, achieving the correct shape was challenging. Thankfully, no broken planks, and no mistakes.

 

Only instant cyanoacrylate glue proved powerful enough to keep these things in place. Thanks to this, I required very little clamping. Only the very first planks needed clothespins.

 

Planks were cut to proper length along the process, to make it more manageable. I did not fuss about measures, since the planks were all the same length and considerably longer than needed. The small scraps left from the cutting were useful later for adapting and building new parts.

 

In picture 9 you can see these scraps being put to use: the keel provided had an unmatching curvature and had to be “augmented” in order to fit correctly. In the end, this detail won’t be noticed, since proper sanding and later painting will make it invisible. We are not yet gluing the keels to the model, though: we are in for a surprise.

 

In the next installment, a fortunate finding, and Poseidon himself displays his approval of the project.

 

Stay tuned!

 

 

[Eurus]

 

At the moment I knew I would sooner or later need a base or pedestal of some sort for the Providence, and I was considering the different options available. Artesanía Latina does not provide any solution in the kit, and to proper display the boat I would need to either buy or work something out from scratch.

 

Over the Internet I found the picture of a model ship being displayed over a piece of driftwood. The boat itself was unremarkable, but the improvised pedestal looked beautiful and I instantly knew what I wanted. My secondary option was a piece carved from an actual whale bone—I have visited certain beaches where these are quite common. A tooth would be fantastic, I thought, but still would depend on luck.

 

It was a cold January, and we decided to pay a surprise visit to the missus’ family in Veracruz over the weekend. Since we were going to a seaside town anyway, I thought I might as well take advantage of the opportunity, and asked them if they knew of a good spot for driftwood-hunting. As it happened, they did, and were even willing to help. The kids thought of it as some kind of adventure or treasure hunt, and took it very seriously. When we got to the beach, the team spread apart and began looking for interesting stuff.

 

There had been a storm the previous night, and the beach was full with debris and a lot of wood was washed ashore that morning. I decided to walk along the surf, and it had not been five minutes since we arrived when I saw it: as a wave retreated in front of me it uncovered two capriciously-shaped wooden prongs. I reached down and pulled it from the sand: a small, crooked piece of driftwood, white as a bone. As I held it up to my eyes, I knew this was it. The search was over even before it had begun. Of course, I had to try it on the boat, but I had a sense that it would work.

 

In the pictures you can see what I am talking about.

 

I took the piece home and to my surprise it was a perfect fit. Not close: perfect. No further treatment was required at all—no sanding, polishing, painting, nothing. No adding or cutting, as the shape hugged the Providence’s hull snuggly and securely. Some cleaning was due to remove the sand and the salt and it was good to go. I took it as an auspicious signal: the God of the Seas smiled upon the project, and timely supplied what I needed.

 

The hull was already completed and in its final shape, so it could provide a good reference as to how it would look once the boat was finished and atop the driftwood “pedestal”.

 

Next stop: the gluing of the keel, and painting considerations.

 

[Jim Lad]

That piece of driftwood makes a wonderful base.

 

John

[Eurus]

 

After a brief driftwood-hunting distraction, we are back at the dry dock to continue with the keel of the Providence. It is comprised of three separate parts, and with the small augmentation seen in past sections, they are ready to be glued, as shown in pictures 1 and 2.

 

Picture 3 shows the boat ready, before sanding or applying any kind of filler. Afterwards, a little filler will be used—to cover only the gaps between the keel and the hull, not the strakes—and then sanding with a smooth sandpaper in order to preserve the details and wood grain.

 

 

In picture 4, as suggested in the instructions, a coat of wood primer is applied with a brush. At this point, the hull is ready to be painted.

 

Next post: we take a detour and start with the fittings and accessories.

 

Edited July 27, 2021 by Eurus
Typos

[Cathead]

Nicely done so far. I've always liked the look of driftwood bases.

[Eurus]

7 minutes ago, Cathead said:

Nicely done so far. I've always liked the look of driftwood bases.

 

Thank you!

 

I had never considered a driftwood base until then, but it ended up looking great. It gives it a different vibe. Also, it can be positioned in several ways, since the boat is not fixed.

[bobandlucy]

Nice Base!

[Eurus]

 

I decided to take a break from the hull and explore the cool accessories and tools of the trade.

 

The harpoon is the most important instrument of a whaler by far, and the position of harpooneer is one of the most prestigious. Their strength, aim and aplomb are necessary when split-second decisions might mean the life or death of the crew. In the boat, he is second in command only to the officer, and both perform a dangerous dance by switching positions amidst the frantic crucial moments of the hunt.

 

The harpoon is made of an iron rod tipped by sharp barbs (called flues). The wooden piece is usually discarded on impact, serving only as an extension of the harpooneer’s arm. The knots tighten with the pull as the enormous cetacean flees, usually with the whaleboat in tow. The line is stored in special tubs, and coiled in a way that it can be quickly deployed.

 

In the pictures you can see the building of some of these objects:

 

 

In pictures 1 and 2 the tub for the main line is assembled using small pieces of wood as staves. I loved the color.

 

Pictures 3 and 4 show how the hoops are made from brass strips, curved with the aid of a small jeweler’s anvil.

 

Picture 5 displays the main line-tub, a boat-bucket, a water keg, the lid of the aft compartment used for storing small objects like knives and a compass, and an unassembled harpoon.

 

The tips of the two provided harpoons are just terrible: childish and inaccurate, and do not even remotely resemble the real thing. I tried correcting them at first, but the tip of one of them snapped off—so I decided to upgrade both and make new tips from scratch (which turned out to be epoxy putty). It was hard to work with, difficult to mold and then kept breaking every time I tried to sand it into shape once hardened. I had to repeat the process several times. In the end I had to compromise with a less-than ideal final shape (at least by my standards) to save some sanity and keep the momentum.

 

Picture 6 shows the first harpoon, assembled and with proper colors. The harpoon itself was painted matte black to resemble the iron of the epoch, and the wooden shaft was stained to look like hickory. The second harpoon will have a toggle flue.

 

In picture 7 you can see a small element built from scratch that the kit does not include: the steering oar strap and brace. For authenticity, we needed this.

 

Once the shafts are glued to the irons, picture 8 shows the harpoons being rigged. Two different types of yarn were used, with different coarseness and diameters. All knots are period-accurate, and actually work!

 

In picture 9: both harpoons finished and a whaler’s lance made from scratch. Unlike the zamak harpoons, the lance is made of steel and it is sharp enough to be dangerous. The shaft is also meant to be as accurate as possible.

 

All finished wooden pieces were coated in three layers of varnish for protection from the elements. I want my model to last a long time.

 

Overall, making these tiny murderous things was quite fun.

 

Up next: hull’s painting and staining.

 

[Cathead]

That's some lovely detail work.

[Eurus]

1 hour ago, Cathead said:

That's some lovely detail work.

 

Thank you! I had a lot of fun building and researching for these pieces.

 

I believe the kit is somewhat incomplete--a whaleboat has a lot of parts--but I also understand that this is meant for beginners. Considering that, I did not mind creating some of the extras from discarded material.

[Cathead]

I also love creating/upgrading details from kits' basic state, so very much recognized the impulse at work here!

[Eurus]

10 hours ago, Cathead said:

I also love creating/upgrading details from kits' basic state, so very much recognized the impulse at work here!

 

I like working on these upgrades. It means the project will be much more authentic. Also, details are the difference between the masters and the rest; between a model and a masterpiece

 

I have seen so many inspiring projects in the MSW forums. One day I hope to build something on that level. I try my best, even if it's the small things.

 

[Eurus]

 

Unfortunately, no pictures survive of the painting process, but it was done with a small can of gloss white spray paint, bought at a specialized store. It was so small that it was enough to paint the Providence‘s hull and nothing else. I don’t remember the brand, but it was a moderately famous one. The whaleboat was carefully covered in paper and masking tape. In picture 1 you can see the results.

 

 

The inside of the boat, ceiling planks, centerboard, etc. were dyed a bit darker with a diluted mix of hickory and cherrywood.

 

Pictures 2 and 3 show the thwarts glued in their final position. If you look closely, you can see the peaking cleats for the oars and the lid of the aft compartment in place. The thwarts were stained with cherrywood color.

 

Since this is the final phase of many visible parts, they were all treated with three coats of transparent, matte finisher and varnish. This happened before gluing.

 

In picture 4 you can see the detail of the stern, with the box covered in cherrywood planks. This called for an ingenious solution, and it was actually assembled before being glued as a whole piece to the top of the box. The lion’s tongue is also in place—this was not included in the kit, and was manufactured from scrap wood. A closer look will reveal a small hole drilled for the hoisting rings (also not included).

 

Picture 5 shows the mast partner and fittings already installed, as well as a custom cover for the aft box where the whaling line will reside. This was not part of the kit, but it looks awfully incomplete and unauthentic without it, and it is needed to store the stray line while at sea.

 

Picture 6 is a close-up of the stern section, with the steering oar brace positioned in its approximate place prior to gluing.

 

In picture 7 you can see a close-up of the bow and box, the harpooneer’s knee board installed along with its kicking strap and the hoisting ring positioned in place prior to cutting, painting and gluing. The gunwales have also been glued and it now looks more and more like a real boat!

 

You can see the almost-ready whaleboat with an unfinished steering oar in its approximate position in picture 8.

 

Picture 9 shows the oar brace in its final position, and also the loggerhead, the hoisting rings, the carved bow and the oarlock bases. The iron’s crutch base is also in place. The oarlock holes have been drilled.

 

At this point it is worth noting that both materials and instructions provide only for a five-oared boat, without a steering oar or position. The space towards the aft is also quite constricted. I will make a sixth, longer oar for the sake of authenticity.

 

So far, I love how it looks. I imagine the Providence as a brand-new whaleboat, so no aging, weathering or special wood finishing.

 

[HardeeHarHar]

Looking better and better!!!

[Eurus]

 

With the hull and most of the accessories completed, it is time to think about the sails and rigging. This is not a particularly strong aspect of the kit, since everything is oversimplified or maybe badly researched.

 

The Providence has only two sails: a boomless spritsail and a jib.

 

Some of the materials provided are nice, like the sails themselves, which are cloth and come ready to use. These sails are crude but beautiful and serviceable. It would be a bad idea to simply discard them, and too much of a hassle to heavily modify them. We’ll use them as they are, only with a special treatment explained below.

 

The same cannot be said of the cotton threads, which are flimsy and more appropriate for embroidery than model ship projects. Manila hemp or a similar-looking substitute would have been better. I ended up cannibalizing a spool from another ship.

 

In the first row of pictures you can see the preparation stage.

 

In picture 1 the sails are being submerged in black tea, in order to give them a more realistic coloration—it was two bags of Twinnings’ English Breakfast Tea, if you’re interested. The tea was still hot, and they were left simmering for half an hour. Afterwards, the sails where removed from the marinade but not rinsed, and then left to dry flat. The result is subtle but effective, since they do not look pristine anymore.

 

The main sail does not include reefers, and there’s no mention of them anywhere in the instructions. I decided to add some for realism. You can see this process in picture 2.

 

The eyebolts supplied with the kit are too small and unauthentic. They were promptly substituted with these horn cleats from Amati (picture 3) and some larger ones gifted to me by a friend who makes bracelets and jewelry. The new eyebolt will be glued to the top of the box (bow), and this is where the tack of the jib will be attached. This is notably unclear in the instructions, which do not specify the exact place for the ring/shackle. I decided the best place would be the box; otherwise it would obstruct the regular maneuvers of the hunt.

 

 

The masts were given the same treatment as the thwarts and the other cherrywood parts: fine sanding, dyeing, and then three coats of matte varnish for protection. The rigging blocks were varnished too, but otherwise untouched.

 

The kit’s rigging plan is a disgrace. Every knot is an overhand knot, according to the instructions. I did not follow them. This section is the most ambiguous in the whole document.

 

In picture 4 you can see the small diagram I made, by hand, for the different knots and their use and locations. I made use of some handy tweezers and common sewing needles.

 

Pictures 5 and 6 show the spritsail in place with the reefers dyed and ready, from different angles.

 

In picture 7 you can see the jib now hoisted. There is no forestay: this boat’s rigging is extremely simple.

 

Picture 8 shows a close-up of the bow and the various fittings. The mast has two cleats and two more were installed on the gunwales to control the clew of the jib. All this is missing from the kit’s instructions.

 

In picture 9 you can see a close-up of the stern. Two more horn cleats keep things realistic (instead of the rings provided in the kit).

 

Interestingly, the running rigging is not glued, which means that the sails can be operated and tacked, like a real boat! Everything works. Ready about!

 

Coming next: the oars.

 

[Eurus]

 

While I prepare the next set of pictures, here are some close-ups of the Providence, showing a bit more detail of the previous stages:

 

 

 

[Eurus]

The oars in this model are quite interesting: three different types of wood are involved. The manufacturing process was somewhat tedious, though.

 

I watched some tutorials on YouTube of people using drills and power tools to shape the oar shafts, and especially the handles, however, their results were always sub-par, even if they saved some time. The risk of damaging the wood is also quite high. So, I decided to carve all handles by hand using a small wood file.

 

 

In picture 1 you can see all six oars—five regulars plus the steering one—sanded and assembled but unglued, and ready to paint. As mentioned before, I had to make one from scratch, since the kit only provides for five. Luckily, there was enough scrap wood left. Notice the hand-carved handles.

 

In a whaleboat each rower position has a name and a distinct responsibility, and in order to reflect this even the oars are personalized. In some instances, they have different lengths. That is why they are marked here with their corresponding number.

 

In picture 2 you can see the oars dyed and varnished, ready to be marked with their numbers. There is also a small to-scale diagram depicting how they should be painted.

 

Picture 3 shows the finished oar blades. The topmost one is the steering oar. They were covered in masking tape and then carefully spray-painted in bright red.

 

 

[Eurus]

 

Traditional whaleboats are steered in two ways: with a very long oar or with a tiller. Usually the oar is better, but it can get cumbersome, especially in the final stages of the hunt. Depending on whether the propulsion was by sail, paddle or oar, the boatheader would decide which one to use. When the tiller is not in use, it can be disassembled and stored.

 

At this point I had enough confidence in the processes of wood dyeing, painting and varnishing, so this step was relatively fast. Both the tiller and the rudder were dyed in cherrywood color, then separately varnished, and finally glued together.

 

 

In picture 1 you can see the wooden rudder already carved and dyed, as well as the brass fittings to be used. This shape was achieved using a small wood file.

 

The brass strips were cut to adequate size and then bent in shape to hug the rudder board. The very simple fittings are made of a bent brass wire and brass eyebolts. The metal pieces will be left without any finishing, since I want to preserve their looks.

 

Tiny holes were needed once the brass fitting was attached, and then through the wood to fit the wire. This can be seen in picture 2. These strips are repurposed material, since the kit’s instructions do not mention the creation of the fittings. Once again, I added them for authenticity’s sake.

 

A suggestion of bolts or nails was made by puncturing the brass with a nail and a small hammer. The piece is so small that any detail is hard to see. Also, to do this by inserting real nails would have been impossible: the rudder’s thickness is ~2mm.

 

The big picture 3 on the right shows the rudder and tiller in place, before gluing. I had to insert a tiny wooden wedge to keep the tiller from falling (only for the pic).

 

Picture 4 shows the upper fitting already installed.

 

In picture 5 you can see a detail of the previous step: the three different wood types—basswood, boxwood and cherry—involved in the building of the oars can be better appreciated prior to dyeing and varnishing.

 

Picture 6 shows the Providence on her base with the tiller and sails, but without oars or accessories.

 

In picture 7 I have put everything in its place, just prior to gluing.

 

Up next: the two missing accessories, and finishing touches.

 

[Eurus]

 

Those who know about whaling will notice that one accessory was still conspicuously missing from the build. It’s the whaling line tubs, and there was a reason for that.

 

I had serious doubts about the technique for storing the coils. If you look closely at them, you’ll probably understand why. After two or three layers, it will be hard to preserve such a pristine appearance. After some research, I decided to go with what most modellers did, instead of a more realistic—but unsightly—approach.

 

 

Picture 1 shows the small tub, which holds the spare line. This is the start of the coil. Picture 2 shows the tub in its finished state. I did not like the result, and is probably one of the few details I regret not correcting in time; certainly the most noticeable one.

 

In contrast, the second tub, shown in pictures 3 and 4, is much better. I learned the lesson.

 

A close-up of both tubs can be seen in the big picture 5 at the right.

 

With the lines in place inside the tubs, the only thing left is to glue them inside the Providence and arrange everything so that it looks good for the final set of photographs.

 

[robdurant]

Wow! What a brilliant job you've done of this kit. The quality of work at every stage is very apparent. Looking forward to seeing the finished photos, especially with the ingenious and very effective boat stand you've found. Just sad I didn't find this log earlier. Will you be moving back onto the ARM Cuauhtémoc now? She looks like a very handsome vessel indeed. 

 

Rob

[Eurus]

10 hours ago, robdurant said:

Wow! What a brilliant job you've done of this kit. The quality of work at every stage is very apparent. Looking forward to seeing the finished photos, especially with the ingenious and very effective boat stand you've found. Just sad I didn't find this log earlier. Will you be moving back onto the ARM Cuauhtémoc now? She looks like a very handsome vessel indeed. 

 

Rob

 

Thanks Rob for your kind comments. I will post the finished gallery very soon!

 

And yes, the Cuauhtemoc is waiting, but not for long!

[Eurus]

 

We have arrived at the end of the journey. Thank you all for your comments and your support.

 

 

 

In picture 1 you can see the oarlocks and harpoon crutch glued in place.

 

Picture 2 shows the line tubs in their correct places, along with the rest of the deck accessories.

 

In pictures 3 and 4 the completed model is displayed, oars peaked, on its driftwood base. The small compass and hatchet are added near the loggerhead.

 

The whaleboat is officially completed, and only one final step is left.

 

 

Edited August 6, 2021 by Eurus

[Cathead]

Very nice, thanks for sharing!

[Eurus]

14 hours ago, Cathead said:

Very nice, thanks for sharing!

 

Thank you for following!

 

There's still one more, final update that I'm working on, and also the gallery.

 

[BobG]

I just came across your build log, Eurus. You've built a beautiful model and the details are exceptional! My experience with Artesania Latina models is that the instructions are not the best but you've done a great job on this whaleboat. Congratulations!

[Eurus]

51 minutes ago, BobG said:

I just came across your build log, Eurus. You've built a beautiful model and the details are exceptional! My experience with Artesania Latina models is that the instructions are not the best but you've done a great job on this whaleboat. Congratulations!

 

Thank you! And you are right, the instructions are definitely not the best!

 

[Eurus]

 

Sadly, only one picture survives of the launching ceremony. The Providence was decorated with olive and lemon branches, and the vessel dedicated to Poseidon, who kindly provided the driftwood base. The sponsor performed her duties admirably, and I prepared a small toast. The boat was properly baptized, the ceremony went without issues, and copious libation occurred afterwards.

 

Even though the Providence actually does float, the “launching” meant placing it permanently on its official base.

 

 

I am well aware that I might be the only eccentric loon to perform such honors for a model boat, but some closure was needed after so much time and effort—and it was fun, since it involved the whole family and a perfect BBQ. I also cannot shake off the centuries-long naval traditions, and still hold a quasi-superstitious, deep respect for the sea.

 

Regarding the final state of the Providence, I know there are some details missing, but ultimately I decided against them:

 

The oarlocks should have some padding made from rope, but it would have been too much hassle, as the pieces are already too small, and I’d have to reduce the oars’ diameter to ensure a proper fit. That would have weakened the wood too much, and the oars are already protruding a lot, so fragility is an invitation for disaster. I also decided against simply painting them to simulate the padding, and went for a cleaner, crude iron look instead.

 

Line catchers are missing, and with respect to accessories, a drogue, paddles and waifs are also missing. Same situation with the tub-oarsman position’s double-oarlock. At first I did not know how to build it, and then I just forgot.

 

In a true whaleboat the tiller can be removed, and the board should have its own rigging, tying it to a special cleat atop the lion’s tongue to prevent it from falling off the boat in rough weather or difficult maneuvers. I did not build any of this, as I thought that section would look overly cluttered. I am still thinking about it, however. Perhaps I shall return and take care of that small detail? As one very famous Italian reputedly said, art is never finished, only abandoned.

 

You can find the Providence picture gallery here.

 

 

 

Lessons learned:

 

Sometimes I felt lost, others, frustrated. However, for all the shortcomings of Artesanía Latina and the kit itself—which are not that many, mind you—I learned here a powerful lesson: there are no bad kits; only bad modellers. The field of model shipbuilding is so flexible and open that it seemed wrong to blame the manufacturer on the end result. Most difficulties can be sorted out in one way or another—we are a breed of engineers, after all. A perfect proof is that there are thousands of modellers out there that build their ships from scratch. True masterpieces can be made from coffee stirrers. To have detailed instructions and laser-cut parts in this day and age is truly a luxury. This is clearly not a hobby for children, so I found it pointless to complain for one’s own shortcomings.

 

The fact that the kit is so simplistic does not mean that you cannot greatly improve it. This could speak more about the modeller’s creativity for excuses than about manufacturer’s capacities or competence (sometimes a design like this is deliberate, so as to keep the costs and difficulty low).

 

I learned a lot during the building process. But when I wrote this log, the learning increased tenfold. The mere process of going back in time, looking at the pictures and arranging them in order to tell this story, meant re-living it and new knowledge surfaced from past experience. Then I also arrive at new conclusions while writing. Overall, it was a great adventure.

 

I used power tools as little as possible. The results that can be achieved by hand are much better in my opinion—even if time-consuming—and you have much more control. Also, when working with stuff this small, it is really not necessary most of the time.

 

I love the end result as well as the journey itself. I know the Providence is not perfect by a long shot, but building her was fun.

 

 

 

How I rate the kit:

 

Authenticity: 1/5

 

There was probably very little research involved in the design, and it shows. The harpoons and rings are ugly and there are a lot of parts missing that should be there, like cleats and shackles. No excuse, the sails and mast cannot even be rigged properly.

 

Instructions: 3/5

 

Useful to the bare minimum. Again, I understand it’s for beginners, but precisely for this reason more information should be provided. Also, the use of proper naval names. This could encourage the amateur to get more immersed in the craft.

 

Strictly speaking, the steps are not confusing. But they are overly simplified, and for a total amateur this could pose several problems. Processes like varnishing, dyeing and painting are reduced to a mere word and a single mention, and these are important steps in which the beginner might struggle. Definitely more documentation is needed.

 

There are certain parts that are entirely missing, like the rigging and where to place the cleats/rings.

 

Materials: 4/5

 

This is where the kit truly shines. The wood is excellent. The sails are fantastic. The metal parts are fine. I do not give it a 5/5 because of small details, like the embroidery thread.

 

Some of the supplied materials I deemed too low in quality, so I had to resort to looking for some substitutions. The harpoon rods were especially horrible. I almost discarded them from the beginning. The wooden pieces were fine, though. Especially the cherry wood, which has a beautiful color and is easy to work with.

 

Packaging: 5/5

 

Impeccably packaged, all parts accounted for, and adequately protected. The quality of the instruction booklet and the box, print, colors, is superb.

 

__________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

 

So, that's it for the Providence. Thanks for reading, if you made it this far.

 

You can find the ARM Cuauhtémoc, my next build, here.