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Posted

Lynn, it's in their print catalog (which you can download from their site) but you're right that I can't find it on the website listings, either. Odd. Interested to hear what you find out.

Posted
21 hours ago, Cathead said:

Interested to hear what you find out.

Eric, the BlueJacket people were very responsive to my email.  They responded right away with an email that included an order form for the solution, which I went ahead and ordered.  And reasonable prices too.  Thanks!

Posted

It worked!!!  I am happy with my decision to wash the black paint off the 6 cleats I need to attach to the stanchions, and then use the Pewter Black solution from BlueJacket!  It took a little time to wash off the paint, but then the solution went to work, and I'm happy with the result.

So I've attached the newly-blackened cleats to the stanchions, and I've finished the splash rails and the two fairleads.  Happy with my progress, but totally aware of how hard it is to work with tiny parts and CA glue.  My precision (or lack thereof) makes me hope that no one will look too closely at the finished product!   But for now,  I'm happy just to continue learning how to proceed with each new step!  Precision will come later!

 

I was surprised (and pleased) with how fast the blackening solution did its job!

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Posted

Th cleats came out nice. I need to order some Pewter Black from Bluejacket and give it a try. Thanks for reviewing the product, Lynn. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Looks great, and matches my experience with it being a good product.

 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hi all.  Just checking in to see how the rest of the MSW world is doing.  I've been really busy for awhile now Also, I got stuck in trying to make chainplates (my files don't seem to do much in trying to trim down the strip of brass they are made from, and I seem to have lost a set of files that might work!)  Anyway, I hope to get back to work in the near future, but thought I'd see what you are all up to!

Posted

I found the blackener on the bluejacketinc website by choosing

Fittings > Paint, Glue, Odds & Ends > Paint-enamel and metal toners > Metal toners.
 

Once there, change the order quantity from 0 to 1 (or more) for the version(s) you want then click Buy Now!

 

Jonathan

 

 

Current Build: Zulu - Lady Isabella

Completed Builds: Lowell GB Dory, Norwegian Pram, Lowell GB Dory Redux, Bounty Launch, Nisha, Lady Eleanor - Fifie
On the Shelf: Sherbourne, Ranger, AlertErycina, etc, etc.
Last seen at the bottom of Lake Champlain: Gunboat Philadelphia

  • 3 months later...
Posted

 Lynn, the golf season is over. Where are you and what are you up to? Look forward to hearing from you. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Hello @Keith Black, and all the other modelers who were so helpful to me a couple years ago!  It's been awhile since I've been here... lots of "life stuff" happened along the way, and I stopped working on my ship.  But I've really missed building it, and whenever I thought I'd try again, I would find I was completely stuck on the next steps!  So I'm going to try again.  But now I need help!

I'm trying to thread some rigging through the deadeye.   But these deadeyes are so tiny, and the holes so small, that a regular sewing needle won't fit through the hole, much less pull the thread through.  What's the secret?  What tools do I need to accomplish this?

 

Thanks.  I've really missed this forum, conversing, and seeing what you've all been up to!  

Posted (edited)

 Lynn, it's great to hear from you. I've thought of you often and hoped all was well with you. Hope you had a Merry Christmas and a happy New Year.

 

 Deadeyes are no harder to thread than a common block.  Just use a needle threader by placing it through the hole, insert thread/line, and pull back through. I use a third hand to hold the deadeye while i run the line through. I use a needle threader on all my blocks. 

 

 How's the golf game?

 

 These are the needle threaders I use.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Needle-Threaders-Automatic-Threader-Threading/dp/B0DJP9MKLJ/ref=asc_df_B0DJP9MKLJ?mcid=969cf9ff95b331d59eaee14add5cb58e&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721473909515&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3847405653412896635&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1019476&hvtargid=pla-2387050742131&psc=1

 

 

Edited by Keith Black

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Hi Keith, yes, I really missed talking to you!  You and the others have always been so supportive, and I felt bad just walking away, but things were hard for awhile (relationship issues, etc).  Things are alot better now, and  I  realized just how much I enjoyed the modeling, along with you and the others on this forum!  So my goal is to get back to this, although I'm a long way from finishing this ship!

 

Thanks for the info about the threaders.  I'll have to get some, and probably get a third-hand too.   We're headed for some big snow this weekend, so I'll be spending lots of time inside, happily working on this!

Posted
1 hour ago, lraymo said:

PS - just got new golf clubs!  Looking forward to springtime!

 Congratulations on the new clubs. I'm ready for Spring for any number of reasons. Once upon a time I loved the cold. When we lived in Alaska I was in my element. Not anymore, give me some of that global warming they keep talking about. :)

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

SOmetimes a hole is too small for two strands of rope/thread, and a needle threader won't work.

 

In this case just put some glue on the end of the rope/thread and let it dry. Then clip a little bit off the end at an angle. Now the rope/thread will be stiff enough to go through the hole.

 

If the block or deadeye has been painted you may need to open the holes with a tiny drill bit.

Phil

 

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted
2 minutes ago, Dr PR said:

SOmetimes a hole is too small for two strands of rope/thread, and a needle threader won't work.

 Phil, I've worked with the same size deadeyes Lynn has in her kit and I've never had an issue pulling thread/line through with a needle threader.  

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

My method for threading line through holes in deadeyes and blocks is to put some CA glue on the end of the line, maybe about 1/4" worth.  Then wipe it off of the line.  Once the CA is dry, take a hobby knife and cut the CA soaked end on an angle.  This hardened end is then threaded through the deadeye or block.  Works every time for me.

Ryland

 

Member - Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

            - Ship Model Society of New Jersey

               - Nautical Research Guild

       

 

Current Build - Armed Virginia Sloop, 18th Century Longboat

Completed Build - Medway Longboat

Posted
14 minutes ago, Ryland Craze said:

This hardened end is then threaded through the deadeye or block.  Works every time for me.

Ryland, 99.9% of folks use this method as well but I've tried using that method several times without success. It sounds like Lynn is having the same issue as myself. The deadeyes she's trying to tread are tiny,  2.38 mm. There really isn't enough meat in these to increase the hole size. I poly my blocks to help keep from deteriorating with time so I have used a sewing straight pin to chase the holes to clear away any poly but I don't think that's an issue for Lynn because I doubt she polyed her blocks. 

 

 I am at a disadvantage not knowing or being able to see the line size in relation to the deadeye. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted (edited)

I also run my rigging line through beeswax prior to use, and then put superglue on the last 1/8” - 1/4” of the rigging line.

 

I then bevel the end of the line into a point to facilitate threading through blocks and deadeyes.

 

Sometimes it is helpful to clear the holes on the outside of the deadeye or block with the tip of a scalpel and/or I run a microdrill through it from both directions.

Edited by GrandpaPhil

Building:

1:200 Russian Battleship Oryol (Orel card kit)

1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)

Posted

Hi guys, thanks for the feedback.  I actually went to a fabric/craft store, and found these strange-looking "threaders" used primarily for beading.  Tried it out, and it works just great!  (although I can't imagine how i'll do this on the actual ship, but I'm a long way off from that task!)

In the second picture below, I used the .008 thread supplied with the kit, and it's working.  I don't know what will happen when I have to use the .028 thread, but again, that's for another day!

 

And Keith, Alaska was gorgeous when I visited in the summer, but I wouldn't have wanted to be there in the winter! Brrr!  Although I loved snow when I was a kid!

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Posted

 i'm glad those worked for you, Lynn. I have some beading needle threaders (I have a several different types for different jobs) but I find they don't work as well as the ones that I provided the link for. 

 

 What area did you visit in Alaska? We lived on the Bearing Sea side of the peninsula below King Salmon. My dear wife of 45 years and I met in the Alaskan village where he mother was born, Maggie is fifty percent Alaskan native, Aleut. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Lynn, so great to see you back, we'd all worried when you went silent. I've used both needle threaders and the glue method to good effect. A bit of practice and I bet you'll get the hang of either. 

 

As another Missouri resident, we're going to get slammed this weekend, so good luck staying warm and safe.

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