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HMS Sophie by TBlack - kit-bashing Jack Aubrey's first command from the Vanguard Models HMS Speedy


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  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

Done! Boy, that took some time:

 

Isparscomplete.JPG.c18e643c4054cf215d068ceb5c88d6a2.JPG

Interestingly, the plans I have indicate that the brace pendants are natural, but all the models here that I've seen tar their pendants. Haven't checked with Lees. Also, because none of the masts are glued in place, I should be able to attach the spars off ship and no problems, right? I can't think that, having the yards in place will interfere with stays/shrouds. Oh! And see that the yards are sitting on fine grit sandpaper. I find that, working over that spot, and I drop a block it doesn't bounce on the floor. It doesn't bounce at all!

Edited by TBlack
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 Brother Tom, those look great and that's a lot of work.

 

 Yes, do as much off model mast work as possible attaching the spars to the mast. It's so much easier, do you have a table top vice? My B&D Workmate bench top vice proved to be invaluable (thanks again to @rwiederrich) for doing off model work. 

 

 Here's a eBay link for one at a great price.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/326180611770?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20231107084023%26meid%3D68cd33138caa4d7284a621ac4a276bed%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D375500335234%26itm%3D326180611770%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3EmbeddedAuctionsCPCAutoWithCassiniEmbRecallManual%26brand%3DBLACK%2BDECKER&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A32618061177068cd33138caa4d7284a621ac4a276bed|enc%3AAQAJAAABgP9d%2BMZSXlztIfYFu3kI%2B7ft0VcQix7rTrUVdiJwc2upzwLfM%2B2UEqu0ZqdXqu2qWe6up6s9MSEY%2BWikIwEh4xLkizL%2BG%2Fyhg6cdW4xfkbb75erVQBYYISNxGN1au%2BE0eJ778JYYSAyLJRupNiZky3B2UHpMsaEp7JRgW9fuueOszPlG9eCPE4mSzJx4EejjZE0v1xx3s4HgKujjhEB3s6n3rVM74tXr%2F3IePxzpUMK1eP7655q8enVEHXpfbSIUTWQDNEZ%2BV3iSAOL1%2B1OEcY3M0wq4YZnJpkZbM0m2sUP8%2B6QHYeDmryoe8C1eNpvCBFz1Hv%2BdGYxWil5kGzBwyPNE3IOWbw65qbOzeYo8kHEj9NwAymyhJEpr%2Ffu%2B0fiXIOgNVbkzp2fkFUCvR%2BYm5NPIYGnDnE27NP4LWjW89G%2FIAxLXZCYGeqkG7ZVEPJJulLEQzib26iy92TGpXPJSbVXO3%2FovDTPspVyEML%2FXA7r6Pw%2Fwi3YP%2BQ2tZnB4NFVB0A%3D%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2332490&epid=28030358934&itmmeta=01J1JSEP84HQ2KF40PA6QQHTQX

Current Builds: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver 

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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 Tom, I hit the like button because of your response to Chris not because of the third hand you're using for a table top vice. Order that Workmate off eBay or PM me your address and I'll buy it for you and have it shipped to you. 

Current Builds: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver 

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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53 minutes ago, TBlack said:

I’m really constrained for bench space and this device looks too big for my shop. Let me use what I have and we’ll see.

 It sits on a table or bench top and is only 8 inches, not that much bigger than the third hand you're currently using. 

Current Builds: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver 

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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Keith, I'm not sure you're grasping the situation. In the picture, that piece of paper is 8" square. It takes up all available space, and where do I put it when not in use. The only option is the floor...nope. Besides, you can see the device that I'm using there on the right. Much easier to deal with. But thanks for the suggestion.

Tom

benchspace.JPG.499193468d9a51a0926bc8b871dd696a.JPG

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Posted (edited)

20230126_171515.thumb.jpg.a53cef714abe16195428723079d6348d.jpg

Tom, you might like this 3 inch swivel jewelry  vice. It clamps to the edge  of the work bench and  can be put away when not in use.  Just a thought, Keith  I have lots of space I'll  pm you my address  😉 

 

Edited by Knocklouder
Guessing typos lol

Start so you can Finish !!

Finished:         The Sea of Galilee Boat-Scott Miller-1:20 ,   Amati } Hannah Ship in a Bottle:Santa Maria : LA  Pinta : La Nana : The Mayflower : Viking Ship Drakkar  The King Of the Mississippi  Artesania Latina  1:80 

 

 Current Build: Royal Yacht, Duchess of Kingston-Vanguard Models :)

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5 hours ago, TBlack said:

Keith, I'm not sure you're grasping the situation

 Whoa, I didn't realize you're working in a space the size of a telephone booth. :) 

 

I see some Gutermann  thread on the bench, poly? How do you like it?

Current Builds: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver 

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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Keith, That roll came with the kit. I've been using it as seizing, and it's fine. For the shroud/stay seizing I'll be using this:

Gutermann.JPG.d71d51140e7ae8c7bb03f27585f3c51a.JPG

I'm not sure I can achieve the level of detail that Toni Levine has done in her tutorial (I'm 50% smaller), but I'll get close.

Tom

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 I love Gutermann poly threads, great stuff. You're doing great, Tom. I sure don't see any issues. 

Current Builds: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver 

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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 You do have lots of bench top surface area. I'm working in a phone booth compared to your bench. 

Current Builds: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver 

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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21 hours ago, TBlack said:

It's now time to put my new serving machine together,

 

I received one of those handy serving machines last Christmas and plan to use it for Phoenix's rigging, whenever I get around to that.

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix

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  • 1 month later...

Been awhile, but I've mounted the spritsail yard and the foremast yard. Tackling the bob stays (4). For some reason it was a real challenge. I think I had to do each one 2-3 times. Greg and David in their TTFM and Speedwell books suggest measuring the distance between the deadeye on the bowsprit and the eye on the hull to determine the length of the double stay. I found it easier to thread the deadeyes first and then rig the stay. In any event, that little stage is done.

bobstays.jpg.c9ec911752315bffbd5cd48a2b18eb44.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally finished the rigging to the bowsprit, just a couple of lines to make fast. I had some issues with the stay to the jibboom. The plans call for one, but I couldn't see in Lees or my other references that there is one on this ship. Nevertheless, I rigged it. Now (I'm following Delph's log on Speedy) I'm on to lower shrouds, and, fortunately, the lower masts are not on the ship yet which makes installation easier.

bowspritrigging.JPG.9e3c72daffb46a81da0e12d226dd039a.JPG

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Tom, it's good to see you making headway. IMHO rigging the bowsprit is the toughest part of rigging a ship. 

Current Builds: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver 

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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  • 5 weeks later...

I've done the lower fore shrouds. I thought serving them was going to be a challenge inasmuch as the serving thread was so small. But, no, with Chuck's little machine it turns out to be quite simple. That part was easy. Everything else, as always, I seem to have to do 2-3 times to get it right. In setting the upper deadeyes, I used the usual spacer. And that works OK, but Druxey has a different approach that he outlines in his TFFM vol. 4 and his Speedwell book vol. 2 that I think I'll try for the main shrouds. The benefit I'm looking for is a neater appearance of the seizing around the shroud above the deadeyes which can be done off the model. I think before I do that I'll rig the truss pendant on the fore yard, using Toni Levine's excellent tutorial.

fwdshrouds.jpg.c571f0bc2b8fdd2fc34c047805c09c5a.jpg

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