King of the Mississippi by Cleat - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:80

[Cleat]

When I trimmed the edge piece of the third deck I damaged some planks,  I'm not sure how I can fix this.

[Cleat]

I assembled the grate standoff for the state room.  I have a hobby drill press with X-axis capability for my Dremel tool.  The X-axis feature has 40 mm of travel which worked for the 42 mm gaps between the stand offs. I used double-sided tape to fix a reference block on a piece of plywood.  I used the reference board to position the standoff structure on part of the tape to hold it in place while drilling holes for the pins.  I determined a number of turns for the X-axis travel adjustment between the drill points, the distribution mostly turned out consistent. 

I had made a slight counter sync for the head of the pins, most of them were flush.  This is how it turned out:

I've been working on all of the structures above the third deck.  I test fit the structures and noticed the the wheel house platform is warped and I'm wondering how to flatten it.  I need to find some material for the openings along the top of the state room.  And I need to determine how to trim the front windows of the state room, the instructions aren't very clear (I've been checking other logs for tips). 

[Cathead]

On the damaged deck,  you could consider hiding those areas under some detail, like a crate, a bench, a rope coil, or even a figure, depending on the exact setting.

 

On the warped piece, you could try soaking it, then sandwiching it between hard layers (like glass or metal) and weighting it down until it dries (hopefully flatter).

[Bob Fraser]

6 hours ago, Cleat said:

I test fit the structures and noticed the the wheel house platform is warped and I'm wondering how to flatten it.  I need to find some material for the openings along the top of the state room.  And I need to determine how to trim the front windows of the state room

Hi Cleat.

As Cathead (Eric) suggested soak it and flatten between layers with a heavy weight on top - it should flatten well.

With the windows I fitted the plastic inside and made a frame for the outside to hide the ply edges.

To hide the gaps top and bottom I used spare (not from this model!) 0.5mm x 3mm planking to form a contrasting skirting.

 

[Cleat]

On 1/28/2023 at 3:20 PM, Cathead said:

On the warped piece, you could try soaking it, then sandwiching it between hard layers (like glass or metal) and weighting it down until it dries (hopefully flatter).

The planking has been glued to the piece so I don't think soaking it will work (it was flat when I was applying finish to it).   I'll try heat with some steam from an iron to flatten it. 

[Cleat]

The railings are hard.

 

I decided to assemble the railings on the second deck at the circular stairs.  I knew this task would be hard but I figured I should try it because there is a lot of railings to make.   It was difficult to get the railing components to glue together.  Every time I handled them a component would separate and I’d have to try and re-glue it.  I used CA glue to attach the white metal sections to the supports and I used wood glue to attach the wood components.

 

After several frustrating attempts, I managed to complete the assembly and glue it in place before I caused any more problems.  It turned out messy and the metal parts weren't centered.   I realized I needed to come up with a better way to glue the metal component to the wood components.  My plan is to make a jig to hold the metal at the right height to attach it to the middle of the upper and lower railing wood.  I made an attempt at this process only to glue my spacer to the railing – but I think I can make it work. 

 

[Cathead]

Railings are definitely one of the most frustrating part of any steamboat build. A jig seems reasonable.

[Cleat]

I made a jig and it works.  The tricky part is putting the components in the jig.  I glued a piece of Sapelli scrap from the kit to set the height of the metal component and sandwiched it with the wood components. The right side guide is loose, I hold it in place while I apply CA glue to the joint, then spray some CA glue activator on the assembly and let it set for a few minutes.   I found toothpicks didn't work very well for me when I made the forward railings so I got some Glue Loopers which work really well.  A set of 10 cost $13.75 at the manufacturer's site (http://www.creativedynamicllc.com/home.html) and they are reusable (use a lighter to remove any excess glue); they fit in any Exacto tool.  

 

Edited February 14, 2023 by Cleat

[Cleat]

I noticed my grate assembly below the state room didn’t match the opening in the third deck.  I choose not to use the walnut pieces (items 121 & 122), I used scrap from the laser cut skeleton to register one side of the assembly.  Tip:  save all your scrap.

I glued the third deck assembly to the main structure.  When I clamped it, it creaked a couple times – nothing broke so I let the glue cure.

[Cleat]

I’m scoping out the installation of the railings.  I found a good discussion in another thread:

 

 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/20603-king-of-the-mississippi-by-john-gummersall-finished-artesania-latina-scale-180/?do=findComment&comment=694399 

 

I decided to cut out the third deck from the full-size drawing and place it on the deck to establish where to put the columns.  I’m trying to decide on an assembly procedure.  I’ll start with the second deck railings which will help set the locations for the main deck columns and the third deck posts.  But I think I should install the various beams that go through the decks before I start the railings.

 

 

Edited February 20, 2023 by Cleat

[rcmdrvr]

You are doing a great job.  I built this model years ago.  It makes a great conversation piece when displayed.

[Cleat]

I reached the end of the Parts List

 

I noticed the parts list stops at item 183, I rely on the parts list to identify component sizes and material, I’m disappointed that the parts list is incomplete.  I look at the color pictures to determine how parts are orientated and the full-size drawing helps determine the size of components.  But I’ve confused 4mm & 5mm round stock and I have to fix a piece I cut short.  The full-scale drawing shows items on or near the top of some poles but I haven't determined how the rope contacts the poles, I’m trying to figure out if I need to drill holes or make guides for the rope (I don’t know the names of components – they aren’t in the parts list).  

 

Test fitting the poles:

I used a 4mm drill bit to align the holes between the two decks, I used the drill bit to elongate the holes to achieve the required alignment and angle.  The forward angled post was aligned with the lower bar support so I had to elongate the holes further to miss the support. 

 

[Bob Fraser]

1 hour ago, Cleat said:

I reached the end of the Parts List

 

I noticed the parts list stops at item 183, I rely on the parts list to identify component sizes and material, I’m disappointed that the parts list is incomplete. 

The parts list carries on at page 25!

 

1 hour ago, Cleat said:

The full-scale drawing shows items on or near the top of some poles but I haven't determined how the rope contacts the poles, I’m trying to figure out if I need to drill holes or make guides for the rope (I don’t know the names of components – they aren’t in the parts list).  

I had these poles explained to me by @Cathead.

They are anti-hogging devices to stop the ship bending up or down at either end when riding over waves that leave it unsupported for some part of its length at one or both ends

Parts 202, 203 and 204 labelled "mast turn-buckles" and are 4mm diameter. Those holes are awkward to get right! I ended up replanking parts as i did it differently.

Looking at the pictures in the colour booklet the rope runs in a hole drilled through each, front to back at 3, 4 and 5mm from the top measured on the big picture, otherwise it doesn't say!

The rope is item 240, called "cable turn-buckle" in the parts list.  In real life, from old photos I used for reference, it was usually iron rods connected by turnbuckles for tightening as required, fitted to the mast top.

 

The 2 posts at the stern are part 184, 5mm x 145mm, the steam stacks. I know this is a test fit, but they ony go halfway down the lower deck wall and need to look as if they go into the engine room.

 

2 hours ago, Cleat said:

I’ve confused 4mm & 5mm round stock

Only you'll know, and I doubt very much anyone is going to notice the difference!  AL give you only the bare minimum of wood so it's likely there's no spare.

She is looking good, the most boring part is yet to come, all those posts and PE fitting.

 

All the best,

[Cathead]

1 hour ago, Bob Fraser said:

They are anti-hogging devices to stop the ship bending up or down at either end when riding over waves that leave it unsupported for some part of its length at one or both ends

It's not so much for waves as just to support the hull itself. These were riverboats and anything beyond the smallest waves would have been catastrophic for them. But even in calm water the hulls weren't capable of supporting themselves. The weight of the sternwheel hanging off the end would have broken them in half, and the long, narrow hulls would never hold up on their own without extraordinary amounts of internal bracing. That wasn't done because it would make the hulls too heavy for river navigation, and too rigid because often they did need to flex (such as when encountering sandbars).

 

In a way, these were more like Viking longships in that the hulls were lightweight and flexible, but since they (a) were much bigger and (b) had to support machinery and heavy loads that longships didn't, they needed extra support, and iron rods have a much better strength/weight ratio than lots of wooden bracing. Plus, as you noted, the turnbuckles allow the bracing to be adjusted.

 

Cleat, if you're confused by all this, it doesn't help that this kit bears only a passing resemblance to any real-life steamboat (realism-wise, it's the equivalent of a cartoon pirate ship), so don't think about it too deeply! At the level of this kit, the idea is to run some dark line over the top of the poles (I'd suggest filing/cutting a thin slot across the end of the dowel), simulating the iron rods that would run between metal plates on each pole and down into the hull.

[Cleat]

Thanks for the help and pointing out the parts list continues on page 25.  When I came across the General Tips in a different language I assumed the rest of the manual was instructions for different languages - my stupid mistake.  And thanks for the explanation about the masts.

 

I normally use digital calipers to check the thickness of the wood, I didn't notice the difference between the 4mm & 5mm stock until I was about to cut a second piece - then I checked the diameters. 

 

 

[Cleat]

I put the wheel house together and I didn’t notice that I put the back panel on backwards until it was too late; I’ll be putting the stairs to the other side of the structure.  I painted the helm brown and added a bronze accent.  I had curved the top plywood but it didn’t take, somehow it flattened itself out (I’m guessing it happened when I put the planking on it then put a weight on in).  I installed window frames but I’m debating if I want to try making the windows.  (I have a photography box to take pictures of my pen turning hobby).

 

I’ve been working on the various masts and smoke stacks.  I drilled .9 mm holes in the mast turn-buckles but the holes seemed too small for the .8 mm thread so I drilled them out to 1.2 mm.  I also installed the eyelets to the various masts.  When I test fit the large smoke stacks I discovered I need to make some adjustments.

[Bob Fraser]

9 hours ago, Cleat said:

I had curved the top plywood but it didn’t take, somehow it flattened itself out

You could try adding some 0.5mm planking round the wheelhouse top just wide enough to hide the largest gap.

9 hours ago, Cleat said:

I installed window frames but I’m debating if I want to try making the windows

I put in some clear plastic sheet into a rebate in the walls, but that was before the window lining went on. Its going to be an awkward job with everything put together.

 

9 hours ago, Cleat said:

I put the wheel house together and I didn’t notice that I put the back panel on backwards until it was too late; I’ll be putting the stairs to the other side of the structure

That just makes it your ship, and different to all the others!

 

10 hours ago, Cleat said:

When I test fit the large smoke stacks I discovered I need to make some adjustments.

I think I recall mine not fitting too well, best bet could be to sand the partners thinner all round to get them to fit. It could be the photo and my eyesight, but is the upper deck not quite centred?

I do like the bronzing accent to the whistle - makes it stand out.

[Cleat]

14 hours ago, Bob Fraser said:

It could be the photo and my eyesight, but is the upper deck not quite centred?

Sharp eye, the upper deck is 2 mm off.

 

I see that the blocks are attached to the masts with wire.  I'm wondering how to attach the wire to the masts, the blocks have holes but I haven't determined how it all goes together. 

 

What kind of knot should be used to tie the the guy-wire thread?

 

[Bob Fraser]

 

11 hours ago, Cleat said:

I'm wondering how to attach the wire to the masts, 

Attatching the blocks to the masts. My lesson learned - don't use wire - it's too stiff to allow the blocks to move, and will snap at the twists.  I used it as what I thought would be a quick and secure method, but rope would have taken around the same time and probably looked better.

 

11 hours ago, Cleat said:

the blocks have holes but I haven't determined how it all goes together

Simply put, the block is attached to the masts by a rope that goes around the outside of it (strop) which can be fitted with an eye or hook as needed, and the rope you pull goes through the hole (sheave).

Sorry if above sounds a bit simplistic.

Looking through other logs here the simplest method is to put an eye into the mast to tie the block to, or after fixing the rope to the block tying it straight to the mast.

 

How realistic you get is all down to yourself. I'm not at that stage yet, and still learning.

There are many masters of this art, but I'm not one of them!

 

Check some of the other King build logs, or logs for the Victory, Pegasus, Cutty Sark etc for ideas on ways to do it or I've put some links below on on previous questions.

Link to logs on Seizing , link to logs on Stropping many of which show real world and on model worked examples.

 

The blocks AL supplies are not the best, look at Chucks  Syren Blocks if you want realism!

I was lucky and found some half decent blocks in my spares, and I put a slight groove in the sides to take the strop so it wouldn't slide off.

 

[Cleat]

I’ve been processing various components with paint, stain, and finish.  I made about half of the railings.  I tried painting the stairway stringers with my airbrush to prevent paint from clogging the step recesses but the air pressure would cause the pieces to blow around so I ended up painting them with a brush, I’ll touch them up when I cut them to size.  The kit doesn’t have all of the bench pieces so I made a few pieces from scrap. 

 

 

I installed the anti-hogging masts before installing the railings to prevent me from disturbing the railings when working with the masts.  (I haven't installed the wheel house yet).  I cut the third deck out of the full-scale drawing and placed it on the third deck so I can identify where the railing columns should go.  I figure the second deck columns will be a good reference to align the first deck and third deck columns and posts.  My plan is to install a second deck column, then install a railing and another column to work my way around the deck.  I noticed the holes for the steam stacks at the rear don't align with the drawing.  I won't know how accurate the railing columns align with the drawing until I install a few of them. 

 

[Cleat]

I installed some of the railings on the second deck and the columns on the bottom deck.  I only did the side section on both sides of the boat so I can leave access to the stairways. 

I had a feeling that my railings might not be as precise as the drawing and I was right.  I aligned the first column with the drawing at the front of the structure.  As you can see, the last column I installed is off from the drawing (I’ll have to figure out a way to fudge the discrepancy).  I used 2mm pieces to set the height of the railing assemblies.

When I tried to glue the first railing string, I discovered how delicate my assemblies are.  A few of them fell apart when I handled them too much.  I choose to install the columns on the second deck straight up to make the process easier because I was figuring out an installation process.  I angled the columns on the lower deck as shown in the drawing.  For the other side I angled the columns on the second deck but the columns on the lower deck had to be straight up (there was no offset); this told me the decks aren’t centered. 

 

[Cleat]

I’m taking a break on my riverboat. I share my workbench with other hobbies and I want to work on them and prepare for my summer projects in the garage.   I’ve made good progress and don’t want to rush it.  I’ll be working on it less frequently.  I’ve also made some unforced errors.  I accidentally knocked the wheel house off the top deck, the four black crests broke off and I can’t find one of them – three pieces were within a couple inches of each other but the last piece got legs.  It seems a good time to clean the workbench and I still can’t find the missing piece (I’ll have to go through a pile of old computers next to my workbench to continue my search).    

 

 

I noticed I don’t have enough stock for the stairs.  I’ve assembled some short ones and I’m not happy with my work, I want to redo them.  I disassembled one of them and I’ll be able save the stringers.  I also need to determine how much material I have for the railings on the bottom deck, other logs mention the kit has a limited amount of 1.5 x 3 sapelli wood.  I wonder where I might look for hobby wood stock. 

 

 

Edited March 24, 2023 by Cleat

[Cleat]

Last fall I bought a hobby CNC machine.   It can be configured with a laser or a spindle (router).  I got it working but I realized I need to do some tuning, a bunch of testing, and some additional setup chores.  I chose to work on my riverboat instead.  Now I need to complete some tasks including documenting my processes so I don’t have to relearn the tool every time I use it.

I tested it using the same file with the laser and the router configurations:

One of my test pieces will be a sign for the riverboat.  Since I live in Minnesota (the source of the Mississippi river) I’m calling my riverboat the Headwater King. 

 

[Auger]

For future builders, your method of top-down for the railing columns is invaluable. I worked bottom-up per the instructions and see now that I’m going to have some issues with spacing between the columns.

[Knocklouder]

This is so good makes you want to buy one,  nice job it must be so much fun.

[Cathead]

I definitely know the feeling of taking a break from any given project, especially when something frustrating happens. Enjoy your other projects!

[Bob Fraser]

3 hours ago, Cleat said:

I noticed I don’t have enough stock for the stairs. ... I also need to determine how much material I have for the railings on the bottom deck, other logs mention the kit has a limited amount of 1.5 x 3 sapelli wood.  I wonder where I might look for hobby wood stock. 

This thread has a lot of suppliers - Wood Suppliers you should be able to find one in there 😃

3 hours ago, Cleat said:

I’m taking a break on my riverboat.....   I’ve made good progress and don’t want to rush it.

Take a break, do something else, refresh yourself and your mind, look again with new eyes - I found it helped me - 

2 hours ago, Cleat said:

Last fall I bought a hobby CNC machine.

and some new skills.  Have you seen this very detailed thread ? Sainsmart 3020 setup by thibaultron  lots of setup info.

Looking forward to the rest of the build when you come back.

Take care,

[Cleat]

17 hours ago, Bob Fraser said:

and some new skills.  Have you seen this very detailed thread ? Sainsmart 3020 setup by thibaultron  lots of setup info.

Thanks for the reference, it will be helpful.  I have the Sainsmart 3018 Prover and I've bookmarked a few reference pages for my upcoming tasks.  I bought Lightburn to control the laser (best software for that), and I've tried three, free controller software for the router (I haven't picked a favorite yet). 

[Cleat]

17 hours ago, Knocklouder said:

This is so good makes you want to buy one,  nice job it must be so much fun.

Much of it is fun but there are frustrating parts where I don't know how to accomplish a task (forum logs are helpful for that) or my skills are lacking.  There is satisfaction when I complete those frustrating tasks. 

[Auger]

A builder after my own heart!