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Soldering Irons


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Weller makes a good soldering iron. Get one with a chisel tip. 30 watts should do the job easily. You will also need to think about solder and flux. This is where things get more interesting. Try to avoid acid fluxes. Trix makes a good low melting point solder and compatible flux that should meet your requirements. If you haven't soldered before, the trick is to keep a clean tip, meaning no contaminants and not over heated. Be sure and keep the tip "tinned" meaning a thin coat of solder on it. If the tip starts getting black wipe it clean on a damp sponge or paper towel and re-tin. 

Current Build: Fair American - Model Shipways

Awaiting Parts - Rattlesnake

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Also the parts need to be clean.  No rust, scale, dirt, oil, etc.

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

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Butch O'Hare - IPMS

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I'm curious as not having built that kit... what is the soldering iron used for during the build?  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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When cordless soldering irons first came on the market I thought “that’s the height of stupidity, how could one produce enough heat to work?”

 

When I resumed work on my Benjamin Noble Lake Freighter Model after a several year hiatus, I decided to “tool up” with new soldering equipment as virtually everything above the basic hull is soldered brass.  Materials include brass wire, tubing, structural shapes, machined parts, and sheet.  I bought a conventional 40 watt chisel point soldering iron, a new propane torch, and even rigged up a homemade resistance soldering unit.  

 

I also decided to buy a cordless soldering iron figuring that it might be useful for soldering tiny parts.  It is a Weller unit that heats to 950F.  See photo below.  Long story short, so far it is virtually the only piece of equipment that I have used.  For work that we do, I have come to believe that the iron’s tip temperature is often more important than the wattage rating.  An iron that heats a small spot quickly avoids melting adjacent soldered joints.

 

I also recommend a bottle of Bakers Fluid liquid flux and some very fine solder.  The wire that I have been using has a diameter of only .020in, about .25mm.

 

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Edited by Roger Pellett
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Pretty steep price for the Weller unit but may be worth the investment.
Soldering is part of ship modeling.

 

 

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Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
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Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

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Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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I have begun using solder paste. It enables one to carefully place minute amounts of solder on the work piece. With a low flow temp, it flows almost immediately. I'm using a HAKKO soldering station which allow me to set the temp of the iron.

Current build: NRG Half Hull

Previous build: MS Bluenose 

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