Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75

[GLakie]

Those are some nice looking sheaves Michael! Good catch on the fix! 

[md1400cs]

George,

 

Thanks, appreciated. Noted on the vocabulary still learning it (:-)

 

Michael

[fmodajr]

Michael,

 

It looks like you are getting every penny's worth out of that Proxxon!

 

I might have to add the Proxxon to my Christmas list before I start my next build.

 

Looking good!

 

Frank

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Minor update. Install pics of those sheaves. Thanks for looking in.

 

Regards,

 

Michael

[NMBROOK]

Excellent work Michael I am glad you are enjoying using the MF70,very handy tool.Trying my best to catch up with everyones logs,but work has been extremely busy the last week or so and I seem to have been there more than I have been at home

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[md1400cs]

Nigel,

 

Thanks for also dropping by. Your comments are also much appreciated. So, you are very busy, well being economically productive has its "upside". I sort of remember those days-I think (;-)

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Minor update -  again doing some “fixing” of previous errors J

 

PICS 1,2,3 are my initial knightheads, railing around entry down into upper gun deck, and incorrect weather deck gratings. Back then I was, well confused ha ha..

 

PIC 4 is how it should be - hmmm

 

PIC 5 are the Corel drawings, which added to the errors.

 

To compound all of this, when I pulled out the old knightheads I then decided to actually cutout the deck in order insert the new pieces down into the upper gun deck.  Also to hide the old glue and nail holes, I cut through those same places. This left the new pieces in still the wrong locations. Oh well.

 

Also you will note that the two tandem knightheads (the one the left) is larger. I think that I was using a too small replacement piece, so increased the hole sizes.

 

Now I need some advice, if you could offer some?

 

I would like to remove that second bit of framing trim from the upper gun deck entry, and then move that large knighthead closer in to where it should be). BUT that will leave an obvious big scar if I re-plank that first hole. There is already a scar from that removed railing grrr.

 

Could I put something over the hole to cover? Would a “tarp” be appropriate there? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Does anyone have any ideas?

 

 

I will use the Proxxon to cut the pulley grooves.

 

Again thanks so much for dropping by…

 

Cheers

 

Michael

Edited May 27, 2015 by md1400cs

[marktiedens]

Hi Michael-

A well placed barrel or bucket can hide many mistakes .

 

/Mark

[flyer]

Hi Michael

 

Maybe you better go the hard way and replace the complete outer plank over that hole. Removing and replacing one plank should be manageable. Then you can move the knight head up to 1 plank towards the center line. And if you like to remove that framing – you could probably cut it away carefully with a knife lying as flat as possible. White glue doesn’t penetrate far into the wood and you could perhaps just scratch the remaining stains away with a knife (a sharp one like a scalpel with a round blade works fine).

I really admire your dedication to details.

 

Cheers

Peter

Edited May 27, 2015 by flyer

[md1400cs]

Peter. Brilliant idea thanks.

 

Then it occurred to me that I had absolutely none of that planking left-over. In fact I remember being so happy that the last plank for the outer hull, was in fact the last piece that I had left.

 

Then, I looked through my big zip-lock bag (we never throw anything away, do we?), and I found one very small piece left over. J see pic…(the other one a bit aft is 1mm smaller)

 

So, will do as you suggested. As well as squaring off the opening, which will bring it closed to the other two knightheads, and it will also remove the deck scars around the opening. The newly moved large knighthead will cover the inner scared plank.

 

My big trepidation is removing part of that outer deck plank, If I mess it up - Hmmmm then what? The plank will end up being too short, but will get visually lost when all is buttoned up.

 

Again thanks for your excellent advice, and thanks for your very kind comment as well.

 

Mark, I had thought of your idea as well. thanks for posting

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

[GLakie]

Glad you found the solution Michael! You'll have her fixed in no time! 

 

Cheers

[fmodajr]

Michael,

 

Peter's idea is a great one and the way I would go also. Thankfully you found some extra wood!

 

Good Luck!

 

Frank

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Thanks for your kind comments, likes, and suggestions. Always so appreciated.

 

Minor, well no, major relief that the “simple” plank exchange worked out as well as it did.

 

I used a small hammer; along with two knife tools to pre groove the planks so that the adjoining ones would be out of harm’s way as I tried to remove the bits. I thought of using an Exacto knife to run along the plank, but felt that there would be a risk of also grooving into adjoining planks, as well as not cutting deep enough.

 

You may note that one of those plank bits gave me a hard time. Must have been where all the glue had secured it to the under deck. That bit was nerve wracking.

 

Now onto re-framing the larger (and more correct) deck opening, then making the knightheads. So NO cigar but much closer looking to the 1/1 from what it was.

 

Again thanks so much for dropping by, and Peter cheers!!

 

Regards,

 

Michael

 

 

[marktiedens]

Nice fix - you`re very brave to start chopping up deck planks. 

 

/Mark

[md1400cs]

Mark,

 

Thanks, yes it was a test of will.

 

As it is Corel's effort with this kit is so already way off, but having fun challenging my risks..

I may eventually actually finish her. Not a daily ritual....

 

Regards,

 

Michael

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Well the large block sheave (knighthead) is not working out too well with the Proxxon; certainly operator malfunction.

 

You might note that on the second pic. left side, that the first hole has burn marks (used slowest drill speed)

 

Also, when I tried to drill the second hole, it was much too close to the first one. My error…grrrr

 

Then tried a scrap; drilled three holes, but on the back side they did not burrow straight down. Also I think that Walnut is probably too dense for the intended part.

 

And there should be four pulley grooves, well that’s not going to happen. My skill set is wanting.

 

So I’m going to plan B and will follow Mark’s (marktiedens) idea of laminating some strips to form the block. I’ll play with that and see how it comes out, Mark's looks very good.

 

Not ready to walk-the-plank, but might be time for a Sunday single malt ha ha….

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

[riverboat]

Nice try Michael !!! ...... dont worry the single malt will put everything into perspective

 

frank

[GLakie]

I agree with Frank Michael!  It's only the first attempt, and after that tasty sounding malt, you'll look at it with brand new eyes. 

 

P.S.  Now you got me headed for the freezer and blender, to make chocolate malt for myself. 

[md1400cs]

Frank, George,

 

Thanks guys..Yes things do seem much better all of a sudden.

 

Hmmm chocolate Malt my all-time favorite comfort food

[NMBROOK]

Your build is coming on well Michael Sorry to hear of your sheave woes.When I cut them on the miller.I do not drill holes first.If you cut slots in depth stages of 0.5 to 1mm,working backwards and forwards increasing the depth of cut each time,it should work without problems.Another tip if you have three slots equal about centre,is to cut the central one first,then use the table dials to measure the offset of the other two.I invariably mill halfway from each side,otherwise the shank of the bit may burn the wood.It helps to have a datum,e.g. the top of the workpiece is flush with the side of the miller vice.

Hope this may help in some way.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[George Baxter]

This build is a work of art. Thank you for posting

[marktiedens]

Michael - I also tried to make the slots by drilling holes & then filing the slots by hand. After about an hour of drilling & filing it looked terrible. That`s when I gave up & went with the laminating method. The only bad thing is the edges of the strips can be seen,but it still looks better than my poor attempt at drilling & filing .

 

/Mark

[CaptainSteve]

This is just a suggestion, Michael ... but check out this entry in Kit-Basher's Guide to the Galaxy.

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Thanks for your supportive comments, very nice of you to add your thoughts. They are always such a source of encouragement.

 

So Plan B on the sheaves; the laminating idea, here are a few pics.

 

PS: without a sanding wheel/belt this would have never turned out. Looks OK, though it sits a bit too high on the deck, needs to be lowered a bit, along with needing two more pulleys, and hardware.

 

PS 2: Plan C is coming up (last pic). I was so completely annoyed at myself for not correctly using the Proxxon MF70, that I fashioned a third sheave, and will give it another go.

 

I will follow Nigel’s sage advice and try this again. Again Nigel, we know that you are so busy, thanks for taking the time to give instructions on the proper procedure. LOL.

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

[GLakie]

Seems like you found an acceptable solution Michael. The one you've got done looks good. That's what's so cool about this forum. You usually don't have to look too far for an answer.

 

Cheers

[Ferit]

Hi Michael,

Full of labor and struggle. At every topic one gear up...

Will you have any plan to smooth away the plywood aspect? One of them is you who learned me to see the beauty of the detail... After many returns to previous works the result comes with much more detail... Sorry for the question 

[md1400cs]

Ferit,

 

Nice of you to still drop by, very kind.

 

I think that you are asking about the square opening next to the sheaves? Yes that will be framed with four pieces cut at 45º angles, along with small studs and then the ladder will be re-installed.

 

Thanks for your kind words, but you have it in reverse; It is me that has learned so much from you watching your amazing levels of details on your Berlin (:-)

 

PS: I (many of us) hope to see your Berlin come back to life here at MSW !!

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

[Ferit]

Sorry but what I want to say is the lines colored in red.

BTW I don't know if on the real Wasa this knighthead was monoblock or plywood.

As you work so detailed, I found courage to make a blunder by asking a question like that. Sorry.  :-)

Edited June 2, 2015 by AlphaUrsaeMinoris

[md1400cs]

Ferit,

 

Never a blunder.

 

The blunder was mine by not using the full potential of my tools that resulted in a compromise.

 

To answer your question, if I use that piece, it will look just like that (:-(

 

But I will try one more time to make a new one using Nigel's advice on how to use the Proxxon with special drill bits. Wish me luck lol

 

Regards,

 

Michael

[Ferit]

Michael,

While searching for perfection tires and bores me, it gives you happiness and pleasure. I really admire your determination and patience.

And always Nigel's qualified and competent advices... :-)