Newsboy by MrBlueJacket - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1/8"=1'

[MrBlueJacket]

BlueJacket was commissioned to build the MS model Newsboy by a client. We found an old  kit over in Sweden and got it. Model Shipways actually did 2 kits of it, the other was a larger 3/16"=1' scale. The larger one had a foremast top, while this model does not. Our client was impressed by Pete Jacquinth's larger model. As is becoming normal here, Al builds the model but hands it off to me for the rigging. Here's what I received: (yards boom gaff not shown)

[MrBlueJacket]

First order of business is, of course, to mount the deadeyes. The Newsboy did not have chainplates, she had iron rods to attach the deadeyes. I'm simulating that with brass rod. To keep them even, I made a bending jig here:

 

And here's what one looks like finished:

Only 23 more to go.................Hours of endless enjoyment.

[Rick310]

Looks good Nic. Are you going to add the top on the foremast?

[dvm27]

I have fond memories of making this model over 40 years ago. I believe it is sitting in my son's basement gathering cobwebs.

[MrBlueJacket]

13 hours ago, Rick310 said:

Looks good Nic. Are you going to add the top on the foremast?

No, the kit does not show it.

[MrBlueJacket]

So here's all the deadeyes and bullseyes, ready to paint.

[Rick310]

Nice!!!

[MrBlueJacket]

Painted both sides of the deadeyes. Hopefully can start to install them this weekend.

[MrBlueJacket]

First step is to elongate the holes for the chainplates. I tried an Xacto knife (tedious) and small files (still too large.) Then I remembered they sell abrasive thread in various sizes. I bought the .030" size, and started to saw away.

In an hour, I had all 24 holes elongated.

Edited January 30, 2023 by MrBlueJacket

[MrBlueJacket]

Next step is to figure the angle that the chainplates would take to have them line up with the shrouds. I took a piece of string where the shrouds started, and brought it down through the hole, then marked the line. Not a lot of difference between them, but it will make it look correct.

[MrBlueJacket]

I put the deadeye assemblies through the holes, and drilled for the upper attachment pin.

 

 

[MrBlueJacket]

And lastly, deadeyes and backing plates are all pinned into place.

[MrBlueJacket]

Now all 4 channels have their deadeyes and the backing plates have been painted. Main fife rail installed. Now I can finally start using thread!

[MrBlueJacket]

So after a short pause, thread happens!

[MrBlueJacket]

Over the weekend, got 6 shrouds finished. Very important that the upper deadeyes are even with the waterline. Sometimes I have to re-adjust several times to get close. the for final adjustments, I can twist the shrouds to raise or lower the deadeye, and also vary the tension on the lanyards.

[MrBlueJacket]

OK, got the last 2 shrouds done, now working on the foretopmast stays.

[chris watton]

Looking good, Mr BJ!

[Rick310]

Looks great Nic!!!

[MrBlueJacket]

Al has a picture of an eagle on his door with the saying "excellence is not a skill, it is an attitude" - why do I mention this?

 

So after doing the foretop shrouds, I was not happy with them, they were uneven.

So you guessed it, I ripped them off. Now mind you, these are only 3/32", our tiniest ones. The shrouds are .015"

 

Edited March 8, 2023 by MrBlueJacket

[MrBlueJacket]

After re-doing them, I felt much better.

Edited March 8, 2023 by MrBlueJacket

[MrBlueJacket]

Next, I did the main stays. they end under the fife rail, so I had to thread them through the fife rail.

[MrBlueJacket]

Attached blocks around the foremast.

And finally able to attach the fore fife rail. It's going to be difficult to get to those blocks.

[MrBlueJacket]

Here's the 3/32 deadeyes on the fore top. Really tough to get them nice and even. I spent 1 1/2 hours on it.

[MrBlueJacket]

And of course it's time to start the ratlines.

[Keith Black]

 Nic, these needle threaders work great for getting into blocks hidden away in small tight spaces due to their flexibility and length. One disadvantage is the paper end one holds on to comes off easily. They will still work but control becomes a little more difficult.  

 

 https://www.amazon.com/ZZHXSM-Threader-Threading-Embroidery-Threaders/dp/B08ZSL7DY8/ref=sr_1_10?crid=DZZAON3KBX52&keywords=long+needle+threaders&qid=1678975922&sprefix=long+needle-threaders%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-10

[MrBlueJacket]

Keith, thanks for the tip. I wet the last inch of thread in CA glue, which makes it stiff, like a needle threader. Works great.

 

[MrBlueJacket]

Last night finished the port main ratlines.

[MrBlueJacket]

Over the w/e, started the fore topmast ratlines

[MrBlueJacket]

Finished all the upper ratlines, time to mount the foremast.

[MrBlueJacket]

Now for the lower stays. To get the masts parallel, I must first pull the mast to port, so when I attach the starboard stay, it will pull back to where it should be.

View from the bow.