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Posted (edited)

Fairly recently I came over to the other side and began wooden ship building. My first build was a Vanguard Fifie. I feel I planked the hull in the traditional beginner manner and although happy with the result I wanted to improve on my next build. Unfortunately I found this forum a little late and embarked using my own method.

My second build was another Vanguard kit, HMS Alert.

Here is breakdown of how I planked the hull. 
 

The first layer was done in the manner of my Fifie

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The next picture is after I had tested my idea with the first 5 planks. It shows me taking measurements for the second band. I have put tape between the lower and upper planks on the bulwarks position. I have also taped (in white) the length at a halfway position for a 5 plank band.

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The tapes were removed and the measurements put on paper. I had previously sorted the planking strips and for this band was using 4.1mm width planks. That gave me 15 planks at mid ships. I then divide each bulwark length by 15 and I get a plank width at each bulwark.

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I then make 1 plank to those dimensions making sure to mark midship position. This strake is now my pattern and I make nine more to the same dimensions. The planks are individually bevelled and fastened to the framework. This process is then continued for batches of 5 planks per side. I did change the tape from white to yellow Tamiya, as the white had too much stretch.

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Hopefully, the rest of the pictures become self explanatory.

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By the end it wasn’t too far out for a rough and ready method.

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I’m not suggesting this is a great method, but it was a step up towards lining off the hull in a more exacting manner.

 

My third and current build is the Syren Medway Longboat so I suspect my ad-lib method will not be used by me again. Like I said, it worked for me at that time.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Paul

Edited by Toolmaker
Posted (edited)

Your planking looks superior. The fact that you lined off the frames, tapered the strakes and had each land at the rabbet is fantastic.   If you are getting some planks that rise up due to edge bending, and you are not already doing so, pre-bend them with heat and it will be even easier.   If you have not seen it before, check out the four part video by Chuck Passaro on the advantages of pre-bending the planks.   https://modelshipworld.com/topic/22975-chuck-passaros-planking-videos-where-are-they/

Great looking kit and build, thanks for sharing.

Allan

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted

Hi toolmaker

That is some really good planking, something I will aim to achieve.

My 2nd build is going to be a cutter the Rattlesnake sister to the Alert so I will study your excellent planking before I attempt to do mine

Nicely done, and as Allan said thanks for sharing

 

Tim

Current Builds :

 

Cutter "Speedy" 1828 from Plans by Bill Shoulders at 148


Bounty Launch - Scratch build - FINISHED
85 ft. Harbour Tug. scratch built  from plans by Francis Smith. ( FINISHED but no build log for this )

HMS Lightning. kit bashed from Deans Marine HMS Kelly kit ( FINISHED ) yes at last....

Posted

Nice planking. As Allan notes for more complicated hulls pre-bending will be necessary. I’m a devoted fan and practitioner of Chuck’s heat bending method described in the referenced video. Welcome to wood modeling. 

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Royal Barge, Medway Long Boat
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

Posted
4 hours ago, allanyed said:

Great looking kit and build, thanks for sharing.

Thank you for the interest shown and taking the time to comment. I’m sure you’re correct that this only worked due to the reasonably simple hull shape. The appeal for me was that I was able to have full length strakes over the complete hull. The last strake ended up varying between 2.2mm and 3.5mm so not much lost over the hull.

 

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I only measured on one side, over assuming, however I was lucky that it came out fairly even.

 

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After I had shaped each piece and bevelled the edge, I did pre-shape them.

 

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3 hours ago, chris watton said:

That is a very neat job!

It’s a very neat kit. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Thank you.

 

3 hours ago, glbarlow said:

I’m a devoted fan and practitioner of Chuck’s heat bending method described in the referenced video. Welcome to wood modeling. 

I intend to follow your lead. I got away with my cheap fix but intend to up my game going forward. Thanks for commenting, it’s appreciated.

 

3 hours ago, oakheart said:

That is some really good planking, something I will aim to achieve.

Thanks Tim, I’m sure you will do a great job on your upcoming build. If you do intend to try the route I took, here are some notes I made at the time.

 

The shaping of the planks, even as a bunch of 10 brings its own if’s and but’s;

Measure the widths of your planks and bundle them into +/- 0.05. My 4.1mm average width became 4.0mm on one batch. My Alert planks varied by 0.3mm over the lot. 

  1. Choose the best side of each plank, when you stack them for profiling you will want 5 with the best side facing you and 5 with it facing away. Port and Starboard become a mirror image. On the reverse of each plank Mark the bottom as it’s surprisingly difficult to tell which edge you have profiled once they are all separated.
  2. Mark m/s on each plank as everything is taken from there. Watch out for losing that mark when you soak the plank😂
  3. The front taper lends itself to using a plane. As a batch your stack is now about 12mm wide. The v shaped in the plank towards the stern is more problematic. Now if only I had a laser cutter and some nice sheets of pear wood!
  4. I found I approximately shaped the planks as a batch and then finished each individually.
  5. I needed to taper the front end of each plank to fit in the keel slot. It’s just a couple of millimetres. Do it on the back of the plank. This and the upper edge bevel should be done before bending. It can be done after should you forget but it’s a lot harder to bevel a compound curved edge.

All the best

Paul

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