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Posted

I too like that muted blue color, Ronald. Despite your hiccups (we all have them!), she is coming along so very well.

Mark

 

On the table:   Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70

 

Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

FinishedEndeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

Posted
18 hours ago, Ronald-V said:

Update:

 

I actually wanted to post an update only after I finished the entire bow...but I had so little time to actually work on the ship, so I thought...might as well post a small interim update. Otherwise, it'll be a very long update.

 

First, I had to fit the gammoning knee. I noticed it didn't quite fit the curve of the prow. I probably sanded away the char a bit too enthusiastically. So I glued some scrap wood to the knee and then sanded it into shape.

 

IMG_20250831_120957728_HDR.thumb.jpg.f516601df6523d511097be28188d767b.jpg

IMG_20250831_141710248_HDR.thumb.jpg.ca884126d3359eecbf91e11a7fbaaa94.jpg

IMG_20250902_111651185_HDR.thumb.jpg.3e2b442ed455407fe1b45570b1577615.jpg

IMG_20250902_111619951_HDR.thumb.jpg.a2a4d1b85ae60894fa40f6d7b401d774.jpg

 

Supervisor 🥸

 

IMG_20250902_111831776_HDR.thumb.jpg.092f8fc8758ae29a9d404bed64ffbb06.jpg

 

Next, I glued the V-brackets to the gammoning knee, but discovered that the middle one wasn't completely straight/level, which would cause problems. So, I loosened it with some alcohol and re-glued it.

 

IMG_20250908_104554108_HDR.thumb.jpg.c55c18be77fb65177395add3d2430fed.jpg

 

Dryfitting as much as possible, nothing glued here

 

IMG_20250910_092832070.thumb.jpg.77bcae0041247558baa1fadac873ec75.jpg

 

Okay...this part wasn't so good, haha. I was too hasty here. I had everything nicely taped off before painting, but I didn't do a good prep (sanding), and with the WOP already in the wood, removing the tape didn't go well. That was just stupid of me and way too hasty. Prepping is very important, especially if the wood has already been treated.

I pulled off a nice chunk of paint while removing the tape ;) 

 

IMG_20250912_113934228_HDR.thumb.jpg.985c7ce7a3663d1667e55a51227b312f.jpg

 

But with a sharpened screwdriver I was able to remove the paint again and this time I did it properly with the right pre-treatment

 

IMG_20250912_114146792_HDR.thumb.jpg.e69b4fcc631090ef5be7dc4dc9e26f9f.jpg

 

The bow hair brackets were relatively easy to paint because I could scrape off the excess blue paint with a knife. This gave me a nice, clean decorative line in the center, as the laser-etched decorative lines are slightly deeper than the rest. I did, however, paint the "raised areas" that weren't going to be blue with WOP first. This made the blue paint adhere even less, which was an advantage.

 

IMG_20250927_093908964.thumb.jpg.7c8f590578887089bea55ac060cc84ad.jpg

IMG_20250927_093932620.thumb.jpg.ad66a4422e3a2d99099378a7298a9c65.jpg

IMG_20250927_094134214.thumb.jpg.ef04a23d49cd1af5fec94768bfa3c073.jpg

 

Glued the bow hair brackets onto the now painted prow.

 

IMG_20250930_151221409_HDR.thumb.jpg.8601c64452fe80b58fdf86483813f924.jpg

 

It looks like this now :) 

 

I painted the black line at an angle, this seemed to be the case with almost all the contemporary models I've seen. 

From the side it then appears that the wales continues at the same angle towards the prow.

 

IMG_20251002_103756778_HDR.thumb.jpg.18a62fee73ca1fe3147b9e8f48650283.jpg

 

I've already finished the bow grating, etc., but I'm still unsure whether I should do anything about the bow lower rails that will be attached to the sides.
Blue Ensign indicated in his log that the slots in the V-brackets could be smaller. But perhaps I'm too far along in the build to do anything with this. It doesn't seem very visible in other build logs, so I might leave it as is.

 

IMG_20251002_103537967_HDR.thumb.jpg.723ee34f77b7cb78286ef7ba78893ab1.jpg

 

Later I will continue with sanding and attaching the bow cheeks :)

 

IMG_20251002_104022993.thumb.jpg.b1d0abd8afc55f39e419f640f8f046a9.jpg

 

That's it for now...I hope I can make some more progress in the near future :) 

Hi Ronald! Your work is an example of how to do things neatly and beautifully! What kind of paint did you use? Was it ready-made, or did you choose the color?

Posted
6 hours ago, SaltyScot said:

I too like that muted blue color, Ronald. Despite your hiccups (we all have them!), she is coming along so very well.

Thanks Mark! 🙏

 

2 hours ago, Frecap said:

Hi Ronald! Your work is an example of how to do things neatly and beautifully! What kind of paint did you use? Was it ready-made, or did you choose the color?

Thank you! They're pre-mixed colors (thankfully), so it's just much more convenient to have a large quantity on hand. I'm very happy I found these colors. Incidentally, I don't mind mixing them myself, but for these larger projects, it's more convenient to have some pre-mixed colors. :) 

 

Colors I use for the black are "matt metal black" or "Ironwork black" is it called now from Jotika/Admiralty colors.

And the blue is "Tamiya Medium blue XF-18". I had seen them on the HMS Diana built by Beef Wellington here on the forum (worth a look)

Posted (edited)

Beautiful work Ronald! Your pear planking is not only near perfect, but also very warm and beautiful to the eye!
I'm curious if you're going to paint the freezes or use the etched metal?
I'm thinking of painting my freezes on Winchelsea too, but haven't got the nerves to do so till now...
Ofcourse I could use the printed papers as a template and glue them on later when they're allright, but then I'll have two layers of paper, or I will have to remove the existing freezes.

You could paint the freeze white over blue, spray or paint the bleu again using the etched metal as a template and then fill in the left behind white 'negative' forms with darkened (with brown?) yellow ochre, yellow ochre and lightened yellow ochre (with white?)?
Frank.

Edited by FrankWouts

Current builds on MSW:

HMS Winchelsea 1:48

Prior builds on MSW:

None

Posted
8 minutes ago, FrankWouts said:

Beautiful work Ronald!
I'm curious if you're going to paint the freezes or use the etched metal?
I'm thinking of painting my freezes on Winchelsea too, but haven't got the nerves to do so till now...
Ofcourse I could use the printed papers as a template and glue them on later when they're allright, but then I'll have two layers of paper, or I will have to remove theexisting freezes.

You could paint the freeze white over blue, spray or paint the bleu again using the etched metal as a template and then fill in the left behind white 'negative' forms with darkened (with brown?) yellow ochre, yellow ochre and lightened yellow ochre (with white?)?
Frank.

Thanks for the compliment Frank! 

 

My intention was to just use etched decoration because I didn't quite trust myself to paint it freehand (plus the enormous amount of time that would take). But I never came up with it the way you suggest. I have to say, that sounds more plausible to try it that way than freehand. Besides, it would still be incredibly time-consuming, haha. I've also already installed the channels, which would be a huge obstacle to laying the ship on its side for comfortable painting... I don't know, but it's definitely something to consider! Thanks. :) 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Update:

 

I've been quite ill for the past two weeks, flu, fever, etc., but I'm feeling a bit better now. I haven't had much motivation to work on the Sphinx, but I've already done some small things. So, just a quick update. I actually wanted to update when the whole bow thing was finished, but that's taking too long. :) 

So I just do small pieces and update them.

 

First, let's move on to the "bow cheeks." After I had cleared them of char, I wanted to paint a nice blue stripe on them, like those seen in other build logs from members like Blue Ensign and Brunnels.
Just painting a straight line wasn't going to work for me; I can't paint that neatly, so I wanted to create a groove in them, just like the laser-etched "bow hair brackets." This would ensure a reasonably clean line.

Now, I do have some nice "scribe plates" from Artesania Latina. I'm not sure if that's the correct name, but I had to make some adjustments. The cheeks are made of 2mm thick material, and when I look at the pattern for the 2mm thick scribing plate, I found the groove in the center looked too narrow (compared to the line in the hair brackets).

 

IMG_20251006_144518026_HDR.thumb.jpg.4fe2895ca4c77b3833aa31c39f86ece3.jpg

 

But the 3mm pattern one seemed to have the perfect width. But that one is obviously too wide.

 

IMG_20251006_143537830.thumb.jpg.2876ba138e7084af533050019b6492e9.jpg

 

So I made a very basic jig to put the cheeks in (this one only lasted 2 tries and then I had to replace the wood because I didn't have any good quality wood available)

 

IMG_20251006_143633440_HDR.thumb.jpg.71aee28159b71aa79e3e140858595ac7.jpg

IMG_20251006_143442692_HDR.thumb.jpg.8abc21ba2d56236be3dab26a8aae7f41.jpg

 

But otherwise, it worked fine, and I was happy with the final result. The grooves weren't as clean as the laser-etched ones from the kit, of course, but they were much better than I could paint. I approached the painting the same way as the bow hair brackets, which I showed in the previous update.

 

IMG_20251007_154055921.thumb.jpg.c233698fdf230873be9db3d9ab55b490.jpg

 

Before gluing the cheeks, I first glued a test piece of wood to a thick piece of painted wood. This was to test whether I could glue PVA to painted wood without sanding the paint away for adhesion. I was very satisfied with the adhesive strength, so I glued the cheeks without sanding.

 

IMG_20251009_160312203.thumb.jpg.af6a50eeb3d193584efcd9784096b27f.jpg

 

After they were glued, the blue line didn't quite match up with the "bow hair brackets" so they still had to be connected

 

IMG_20251009_115902717_HDR.thumb.jpg.0d20ec19b7506fd718fd1d0619c544f2.jpg

IMG_20251009_160357789_HDR.thumb.jpg.6c8e351bced9664a6f69a8a0c6708e1e.jpg

 

I still had to drill the "hawse holes" from 2mm to 4mm. I did this by first drilling 2.5mm, then 3mm, then 3.5mm, etc.

 

IMG_20251009_161352933_HDR.thumb.jpg.a57392475ad29266a91e0fd51ac32f5f.jpg

 

Next up were the "hawse bolsters." The order of work was... first, adjust the height to the hawse holes, then glue them to two pieces of scrap wood for a better grip, then file the rough shape with a file, and finally, smooth it out with sandpaper. Finally, sand in the curve at the rear to make it flat against the hull.
The photos below show this order.

 

IMG_20251011_150214298_HDR.thumb.jpg.2e6ec0721c065d524ad78c5c6b37e688.jpg

IMG_20251011_190458579_HDR.thumb.jpg.8ab2f92aca556e200f6469438dc4110b.jpg

IMG_20251011_190823869_HDR.thumb.jpg.3be226754d420df99255568ad9564edb.jpg

IMG_20251011_191535810_HDR.thumb.jpg.0f1e7a7fe9b4b3b2dc5d8dab7b5a7a38.jpg

IMG_20251015_150533926_HDR.thumb.jpg.bdbeec2b508186c85baee8999d7fba6e.jpg

 

 

The last thing I worked on were the two wash cants. I saw in some build logs that other forum members had omitted them. Perhaps for aesthetic reasons? I thought it would be a shame not to use them, so I started working on them. Initially, I thought they had to be black so they wouldn't distract too much from the lines of the bow cheeks. But once I had sanded them into shape, I was quite impressed with their beautiful rounded shape and thought it would be a shame to hide them in black. So I decided to leave them natural, and I think they really add something to the bow. Their rounded shape and color make them work well with the hawse bolsters.

 

First, I filed/sanded the correct curves in them to make them sit flat against the wales

 

IMG_20251021_135349782_HDR.thumb.jpg.51bdef93e1edc1fb2265c49f017d402c.jpg

 

Then I sanded in the nice round shape and finished it with 2 layers of WOP (also covered the hawse bolsters and holes at the same time)

I removed the hair ;) 

IMG_20251023_093505845_HDR.thumb.jpg.44e34adac0affbe93fbc133d38575e11.jpg

 

This is what everything looks like now:

 

IMG_20251023_143029392.thumb.jpg.8f1b946419420024952d6aff71079e62.jpg

 

 

 

The next and final step is the "lower bow rails" that will go between the hawse holes and the gammoning knee...that seems like a really fiddly job and I'll have to see how I can manage that...to get it looking a bit nice.

 

 

 

Edited by Ronald-V
Posted

That planking job really is amazkng. Each time I see it, I'm mezmerized by its perfection. 

It would fit right in a manual or even a book from a museum. 

It's good to see you keep that same level of perfection in the bow details. 

:dancetl6:

Roel

Posted

I completely agree! It’s mesmerizing! I am currently on my first build so seeing this level of skill is intimidating and inspirational at the same time. I will continue to follow and use as a benchmark for my progress. 
 

Russ

Posted

Have to agree with Russ and Javelin - the planking is very impressive - after 15 models I still cannot achieve these results....clearly something is eluding me that is more intuitive for you Ronald - patience, perhaps! In any event, this build is a real treat to follow

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (refit, 2024)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch); Admiralty Models HMS Echo (1781), cross-section.
 
under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

Posted

Beautiful work there Ronald on the head 'foundations', also really highlight your fantastic clean planking.  Great stuff.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Javelin said:

That planking job really is amazkng. Each time I see it, I'm mezmerized by its perfection. 

It would fit right in a manual or even a book from a museum. 

It's good to see you keep that same level of perfection in the bow details. 

:dancetl6:

Thank you so much Roel!

 

1 hour ago, Russ2025 said:

I completely agree! It’s mesmerizing! I am currently on my first build so seeing this level of skill is intimidating and inspirational at the same time. I will continue to follow and use as a benchmark for my progress. 
 

Russ

Thank you for your kind words Russ! You will learn so much from your first build, that will be a great springboard to new skills :) 

 

41 minutes ago, hamilton said:

Have to agree with Russ and Javelin - the planking is very impressive - after 15 models I still cannot achieve these results....clearly something is eluding me that is more intuitive for you Ronald - patience, perhaps! In any event, this build is a real treat to follow

hamilton

Thank you so much Hamilton! 🙏 I must really give Chuck Passaro credits for his planking video's...that made good planking a lot more accessible....at least for me :) 

Otherwise I think I would still be in the dark about how and what.

 

34 minutes ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

I love a perfectionist.  Simply magnificent.  

Thank you! Luckily these days I can also be happy with something less perfect sometimes ;) 

 

17 minutes ago, Beef Wellington said:

Beautiful work there Ronald on the head 'foundations', also really highlight your fantastic clean planking.  Great stuff.

Thanks Jason! 👏

 

And thanks everyone else for the likes! Really appreciate it! :) 

Edited by Ronald-V
Posted
12 hours ago, Nearshore said:

Hi Ronald,

 

You are truely a master!!! You are doing an amazing job. I quite enjoy watching your progress and your explanations on your techniques are second to none. 

 

Cheers

Nearshore

Thanks Nearshore! 🙏

 

2 hours ago, KurtH said:

Immaculate work as always!!

Thank you Kurt!👏

Posted

Hello, Ronald!

I join in all the enthusiastic compliments!This level of skill is something worth striving for!) You write that you glue the PVA directly onto the painted surface. I tried it too, but I couldn't get a solid connection (Maybe it's the paint... Now I leave unpainted the part of the surface on which I'm going to glue something.

Yours sincerely, Frecap

Posted
28 minutes ago, Frecap said:

Hello, Ronald!

I join in all the enthusiastic compliments!This level of skill is something worth striving for!) You write that you glue the PVA directly onto the painted surface. I tried it too, but I couldn't get a solid connection (Maybe it's the paint... Now I leave unpainted the part of the surface on which I'm going to glue something.

Yours sincerely, Frecap

Thank you Frecap! Yes, I also had my reservations about gluing PVA to a painted surface. Perhaps it's also because of this specific glue that it grips well. I do try to avoid gluing to a painted part, but in some cases, it would save a lot of prep work if it were possible.

Posted

Very clever approach to using the scrappers. 
 

The fit and finish on the bow, including the planking is exceptional work.  Well done. 

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: HM Flirt
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea,
 HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose, Royal Barge, Medway Long Boat

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