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HMS Pegasus 1776 by Darius359au - Amati/Victory Models - 1/64


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This is not so much a build log from the start as a log for a restart from where I left off ,I had a full build log back on the old forums before the great server crash's in 2013 , I really didn't feel like rebuilding it after the 2nd crash and losing it all again .so I kind of just left it! ,after buying the corel Victory cross section and getting irked at it I decided I restart Pegasus and finally finish her.

 

There isn't anything early on in the build that's different from other Pegasus builds other than I had to build a new Stem because the kit one shattered , partition for the fo'c'sle, added the missing sweep ports ,bought new turned brass guns/swivel guns and started the coppering.

I've removed the copper because after 3 moves in 2 1/2 years a couple of years ago the original plates are MIA and I'd made a few mistakes so I'm ordering replacements and re-doing it! , I also had and have plans to add missing parts with the help of David Antscherl's Swan Class books , so things like gangwalk's , billboards and linings etc

 

Richard

 

 

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I realize this is probably a kit problem but why do they supply the wrong cannon pattern?    I realize most people seeing your model will never know and it is not an issue for most, just curious if it is a cost issue for them  to get it right or something else.   

Allan

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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48 minutes ago, allanyed said:

I realize this is probably a kit problem but why do they supply the wrong cannon pattern?    I realize most people seeing your model will never know and it is not an issue for most, just curious if it is a cost issue for them  to get it right or something else.   

Allan

Allan the guns are second party turned brass from RB Model , back in 2012 they were the best one's available and better than the kit guns - as you said most people wont know the difference and they do look good.

Richard

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Like you, Richard, I'm picking up my kit from years ago. I also got the RB barrels to replace the kit guns which were hideous, all-in-one things. The replacements might not be spot-on historically but they are miles better than the kit supplied product back then and only the very best ship historian is going to spot the inaccuracy, whatever it might be. Keep it up - it's a challenging build but a very sleek little ship. If you want a boat for it, I definitely recommend the Vanguard Models pinnace which I've just finished.

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

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Had some mental health/health issues so haven't felt like doing much of anything,(clinical depression down cycle and getting diagnosed with a non malignant Lymphoma really sucks😟)

Installed the Batten while waiting for new copper and started on the inner bulwarks.

(boost in my depression meds is slowly helping ,feeling less "Meh")

 

Batten installed(Ironically the shorter of the 2 sword blades in the picture is a Hanger , precursor to the Cutlass😎 ) , and new bulwark planking.

 

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Wales are done ,I have to get the coppering done but I need to get some spare money to order new amati plates - weirdly I can't actually order from Amati's online store because they dont actually have Australia in the list of countries BUT if I was in Brazzaville Congo or Ulanbattar Mongolia I could buy them😳 ,hope to order them soon from Cornwall models in the UK.

(the black on the wales is ink ,I bent and coloured them back just before I stopped working on Pegasus ,once I sand them I'll either pant them black or use some Fiebing's leather dye!)

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mixed bag ,wales done and painted , making grates and 1st one in place and then playing around with colours for the freizework - archaic turquoise for the background and ochre for the mouldings (I'm trying out AK 3rd Gen acrylics.),the turquoise seems a bit bright so I've got some Imperial Blue coming to try out , I will keep the ochre as it look quite good!

 

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The Imperial Blue paint arrived and I really like the end result on the test swatch I did so going forward this will pretty much be the scheme.

(These are all AK 3rd Generation Acrylics - my main hobby focus is Armoured fighting vehicles from ww1 to modern and scales from 1/35 to 1/16! , I've used AK paints for many years and this is the 1st time I've used their 3rd gen acrylics , I'm going to have to get another paint rack or 2 because I am impressed with the results!)

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Edited by Darius359au
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Improved the look of the Binnacle as straight out of the box it's blah!

I'm pretty much in a holding pattern at the moment till I copper the hull and the way things are at the moment I can't really justify spending over $100 aud for the plate set.One thing I'm considering is painting the coppering so if anyone's done it that way on their model can you give me any hints or suggestions?

 

Richard

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Hi Richard,

 

This is the method I used to copper my Bellona (back in the days before the internet). All mentions are to pages in portrait orientation.

 

I painted some sheets of photo-quality A4 paper with Humbrol copper paint, using a reasonably broad brush and brushing straight up and down, not trying to eliminate brush marks. I then marked the page along its long edges, with the marks being the length of a copper plate apart. A rotary cutter was run across the page from mark-to-mark, just lightly enough to score the paper but not cut through. The top and bottom were marked with the width of the plates, then the cutter was used to cut the page into long strips, with each strip resembling a line of plates. These were easily glued to the hull using ordinary PVA. Some final touch with a fine brush was done where white showed.

 

Perhaps not a method agreeable to everybody, but it worked for me 🙂. The photo shows the bow of my  Bellona.

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Cheers

Richard

 

Next build:

Completed builds:

AL's Endeavour,  Corel's BellonaAmati's Xebec,  Billing's Roar Ege, Panart's Armed Launch

Ships' Boats - Vanguard 1:64 and Master Korabel 1:72

 Alexander Arbuthnot,  Christiaan Brunings,  Pevenseall by World of Paperships, card

HMS Pegasus by Victory

Captain John Smith's Shallop by Pavel Nitikin

Rumpler "Taube" 1911 by HMV, card

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Tried the paper trick didn't really like the result so did some other experiments ,what i've decided on after the tests is I'll use timbermate putty to fill largish holes ,then sand back smooth and brush on a slurry made from the putty ,sand rinse and repeat for a smooth surface then paint - test pieces look pretty good so hopefully it works out.

 

Richard

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Your gratings look nice.  One trick I went to years ago to be sure there are no openings against one or more of the head ledges or coamings is to finish the grating so it is a solid band on all four sides as close to the plan dimensions as possible, then make the surrounding timber of head ledges and coamings to fit the grating, not the other way around.  Picture & a thousand words, etc. below

Allan

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Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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Thanks Allan ,just checked the grates and that one's the only one that's like that! ,it was my 1st one😏 ,I checked a bunch of video's and posts after that and there's been improvements ,(should be able to pop it off the deck and fix it fairly easily). 

Ironically the best one i made is under the quarterdeck and you can't really see it with the deck on🫤🤣🤣

 

Richard

(Edit New grate made and waiting install👍)

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Edited by Darius359au
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Painted the lower hull copper ,from a distance it looks ok ,close up is a different story🫤 ,I've discovered because of the way I've sealed the wood I can easily remove the paint without a lot of hassle! so if I ever get plates it'll be fairly simple to remove the paint and add the plates.

 

 

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Edited by Darius359au
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There are times I hate Murphy! ,bit of an issues popped up in @Knocklouder Pegasus build and it seems in mine too ,there are frame "nubbins" that poke above the quarter and foc'sle decking - there is no mention in either of the instruction booklets about removing them when you remove the ones in the waist But in the diagram booklet their there on page 6 but gone on 7😒

Of course now it's been mentioned i'm going to have to fix it! ,luckily the decks aren't glued down yet so easy fix 👍

 

Richard

 

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Good on you for looking for a fix and wishing you the best of outcomes for that. I posted on Knocklouder's log before re-visiting yours. Otherwise your ship is looking very fine. I definitely recommend the copper plating and you can probably just plate over the copper paint rather than removing it?

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

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Fun with guns! ,have found a slight problem for the swivels ,I dont have small enough wire for the trunnions and yokes ,the holes are teeny but no real rush for the swivels can add them at the end👍

(home made CA applicator at the top ,bit of brass wire in a dowel - got a couple with different shaped tips and clean ups easy just run a flame over the tip and burn off the residue😎)

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