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HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne by Pitan - Vanguard Models - 1:64


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Moving forward 1 1/2 centuries from my (nearly finished) previous build, this is the new Vanguard Models Sherbourne.

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Included in the box were a few extras; being new to ship modelling, I'd ordered a pin pusher and some crew who will, I hope, lend scale to the build.
Seen here with cordage, detail parts and the instructions.
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Below the instructions and bubble wrap was the wood (and acrylic base).
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In addition to the instruction booklet, there are 19 A3 sheets of plans and rigging guides.

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Posted (edited)

Thanks @Thukydides, I'm impressed by how it goes together (see below).

The kit arrived last week, and I started building over the weekend.
I couldn't glue the hull then, but that didn't stop me doing some work.

A few smaller components were glued together:
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From the left, this included the core of the stem, all the hatches, the companionway and the rudder and stern post.

I also started bevelling the bulkheads, keel cheeks* and deck support patterns.
These I glued up last night.

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The hatch beams were added today.  I succeeded in snapping two of them, the foremost and one of the middle ones.
Recovery and repair wasn't too difficult.

These were followed by the stern frames (broke one of those too), the ply false deck and made a start on the transom.

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The piece of string here is pulling the counter into the transom - none of my clamps would stay in place long enough to hold the parts together.

Impressions so far?
Apart from bevelling and char removal on exposed edges of the pear parts, none of the components needed fettling.  The parts just fitted.
The only part that could be difficult is the stern counter.  This has a double curve.  This was managed with an electric plank bending tool.


*Keel cheeks, my term.  Pieces that sit either side of the keel, slotted down locking the bulkheads in place.  Parts 19 in this kit.
These have been designed to form the bearding line (this is my first build that could've had a beard & rabbet).

Edited by Pitan
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Work has progressed on the Sherbourne, with the bulwarks on and a start to the first layer of planking.

This is my first PoB build, and I'm not sure if what I'm seeing is usual.

From the sides this looks OK, as far as I can tell, pretty much like most PoB builds.
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Bow on, there may be an issue with the first starboard plank...
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It is only after seeing that photo that I even noticed this, but that plank nay be very thin  after sanding.


Looking from below, this really does worry me.
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Am I building trouble for myself here?  Or is this normal?

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Posted (edited)

No, that's not normal. Every plank should be flat on every bulkhead and thinning should be the same, more or less for every plank. This will need a lot of wood filler and imho that's not what is supposed to happen.

Check out Chuck's planking videos, they'll help you a lot I'm sure 😊.

 

 

 

Edited by wvdhee
Link added

Walter.

 

Current build: HMS Flirt

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@wvdhee is correct. I would recommend taking off all of them and making sure you edge bend them enough. You will have a much easier time if you take them off and do it right now then if you try to compensate. Take your time and treat every plank as its own project.

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Posted (edited)

This picture of one of the bevelled and edge bent 1x5mm strips is from the Sherbourne manual. No tools were used except a Stanley Knife and steel rule for the taper after just a little soaking, and then while still wet, the bend was manipulated using just my fingers. I use this method for most bending, even for the huge Amati Victory hull.

 

Loking at your second plank down, it doesn't seem to have enough taper at the front. My basic rule of thumb is always taper to half the planks width, and then ease off a little once then planks start to run a little more naturally further down.

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Edited by chris watton

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Posted (edited)

Thanks @mugje, the kit is beautiful, I hope I can do it justice.

New planks have been added.  Just three per side as before, but a revised approach.
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I'm using Chris's technique to define the bow taper, but an electric plank bender to shape the timber before, and after, glueing and pinning.
(Tried soaking, but haven't got the technique right yet.)

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Edited by Pitan
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Thanks Thukydides.

The first layer of planks is on, still needs sanding and filling.

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Three stealers per side, one each at the bow, the stern, and amid-ships (is this last a stealer?)

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FWIW, I re-used two (of six) planks from my first, failed, attempt.  The reset were fresh items in the kit.

Sanding next, then filling

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That looks fantastic.  I need to learn when to start over sometimes.  

Completed Build:   HMS Beagle - Occre

Current Build:         Frigate Diana - Occre  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33530-frigate-diana-by-rossr-occre-185/

On the Shelf:           Santisima Trinidad Cross Section - Occre, NRG Half Hull, the US Brig Syren - Model Shipways and USF Essex - Model Shipways.

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Thanks guys
Work has started with the second planking layer.

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The planks in front are supposed to be colour graded, a change of light and viewing angle suggests some revision is in order ... except, these are all due to be painted white.

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Sherbourne now has outer bulwarks and some paint.
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I have an alignment issue with the starboard bulwark at the bow:

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Need to think about a solution to that.


A question.
I'm thinking about adding sails.
Is there any guidance for adding sails to an 18C cutter?

FWIW, the kit has three yards on the mast, main and driver booms for the gaff, and a retractable bowsprit.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been a while since my last update, my apologies if this post becomes too long.


The main cause of my delay was a self-inflicted problem.


The instructions tell us to make sure the eyebolt openings in the spirketting patterns line up with those in the inner bulkheads (parts 32 and 33, L & R).
Thing is, these parts fit the hull very nicely, and I didn't think about the holes until it was too late.

This left me with eyebolt holes very much out of line.
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Sorting that out involved several iterations of filling holes and using a jig to line up and drill new holes.
This is, essentially, the jig I wound up with; a simpler style would be better.
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Holes are now drilled, gun wales and rails have been added, along with a small colour change.

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The starboard looks fine, but I have some fettling to do port stern timer (sp?)
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Oh, and that starboard bulkead, at the bow, is now filled.
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Don't think I'll try to correct that colour, it takes some looking to see the issue.

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