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Posted

So I have been playing the game World of Warships for quite sometime and I have been begging them to release some of their warship files so people could print and model them. Last year they did just that with the 1905 USS St. Louis CL 20. It is a 426 fool US armored cruiser which fought in WWI and was built in Philadelphia, PA. I have been printing for some time but this is the first full on ship print I have attempted. I just got a very good new Fused Deposit Material (FDM) printer and it is working wonders on printing the parts for me to assemble so far.

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Posted

St. Louis' sister ship, USS Milwaukee (CL-21), stranded on the beach at Samoa, California, in 1917 while trying to tow off a stranded submarine. The submarine, H-3, was subsequently hauled over the North Jetty of Humboldt Bay, refloated, and eventually placed back in service. 

 

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Photo in public domain, courtesy of Wikipedia

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Mitsubishi A6M5a, WAK SBLim-2A

Richard44's SBLim-2A build

Posted
  On 7/22/2024 at 12:09 PM, ccoyle said:

St. Louis' sister ship, USS Milwaukee (CL-21), stranded on the beach at Samoa, California, in 1917 while trying to tow off a stranded submarine. The submarine, H-3, was subsequently hauled over the North Jetty of Humboldt Bay, refloated, and eventually placed back in service. 

 

image.jpeg.044df478886e0340f50dcf117b876dea.jpeg

Photo in public domain, courtesy of Wikipedia

Expand  

 This is a great photo and having been to that part of the world up to Humbolt and Crescent City, I can see how that part of the coast is super unforgiving! This design has kind of grown on me since I started.

  • 7 months later...
Posted

Impressive recovery work CWO Highlanderburial.

I can't wait to see your restoration in person at the next Philadelphia Ship Model Society's monthly meeting!

 

Nice - ah - nice...

 

Ron

 

Ron

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

 

Current Build: HM Gunbrig Cracker #13 (HM Adder Gunbrig)

Completed Builds: Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner), HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS Godspeed, HMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

Posted

Fascinating model and build process. I know nothing about 3d printing. Can you select the print quality to get very fine detail or does the extrusion head dictate how fine the detail can be? 

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
  On 3/11/2025 at 9:36 PM, KeithAug said:

Fascinating model and build process. I know nothing about 3d printing. Can you select the print quality to get very fine detail or does the extrusion head dictate how fine the detail can be? 

Expand  

Keith,

On the printer I am using you can adjust the settings from draft .2 mm to fine .08 mm. There are multiple settings in between. The advantage with some is to give your piece strength vs detail. 

I have both a resin and FDM printer. The resin will give you details down to the 10 micrometer range. It will not give you much strength however. The FDM which in the past has never been great for details has come a long way and I am using it almost exclusively for this build.

 

Cheers!

TW

 

Posted

Back to my build. Work on the pedestals, case, and side gun mounts . I managed to router some scrap wood and find some UV resistant acrylic sheet which I welded with poly chloride bonding agent. 

I painted the base gray and layered on 3 coats of polyurethane. The pedestals were printed to fit and painted bronze. I then layered over brass wax paint with sealer. The model was screwed into place using 3 inch self tapping.

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Posted

More progress. I quickly printed off 4 of the larger long boats. I realized after I tried to fit them up that I forgot to shrink them down to 1/200 scale which was a 81% (hard to see in the pic but the boat on the far left is the right size and the top four are too big.)

 

The other photos show the new Gatling gun mounts and test fitting the boat mounts.

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Posted

I got through some more of the very thin rigging. I saw somewhere that much of the support cabeling stays were 5/8 inch or 3/4 inch wire rope. This would have put much of it on the model at about .004 inches or .10 mm by my math. I used super nylon line and Lycra rigging for the model in roughly those sizes. To my eye it seems small though.

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Posted

Thanks Chris. I guess I am just used to seeing a lot of models using the classic thick sewing thread or dense stretches sprue. I am almost going blind comparing the model rigging to photos and I feel it matches, so your comment is very validating.

Posted

Keith (I hope that's the correct owner of this thread) -

I just saw your build tonight and looked over what you've accomplished. Quite impressive, to say the least!! I'm currently designing (3D Design/Print) the parts for a 1/200 scale USS PURITAN (BM-1) and after looking over your photos I see that there are quite a few common parts, such as small cal. deck guns and various fittings. I know there's a 1/350th scale 3D printed kit available (Iron Shipwrights), but I wanted this to compliment my 1/200 scale USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) model (bookends of a sort - 1st "battleship" and last (IOWA Class) battleship). I'm doing mine waterline as my 3D program isn't real keen on hull design (or maybe it's me!!). I've also noted some possible discrepancies in the kit and don't want those to be incorporated into my project. 

 

Anyhow, I normally post on The Ship Model Forum but look into NRG from time to time, so I'll keep my eye on your continuing project. I'll ask a question - what references are you using for your weapons/fittings? I've found a few drawings online from NARA but some are very hard to read (faded due to age). TIA!

 

Hank Strub

 

 

Construction Underway:

Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/200 scale USS PURITAN (BM-1) 


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

3D Design/Printed various scale USN Gun Mounts/Turrets, and GFCS Directors

Member:
New Bern Ship Modeler's Guild

NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

Posted

Hank, 

 

The entire kit is available here:

USS St. Louis - official 3D printable model from WoWS by World of Warships | Download free STL model | Printables.com

 

The price is FREE!

This was a trial by the very popular game World of Warships to see if there was interest in them converting their digitized designs (which are fantastic btw) over to 3d printable models. I have BEGGED them to make these files available. As to your request on the weaponry, I am afraid the 3d kit maker left a LOT to be desired. Most of the parts were VERY vague and I had to even resculpt a few of the smaller weapons to look decent. 

If there are parts that you need or can use than they are all there!

 

Thanks for commenting. I love these buff and white colored vessels, but this is my very first attempt at this kind of ship modeling and so far it has been pretty positive.

 

V/R

Todd

Posted

A little different line of effort tonight. I wanted to put on a bow ornament decal at some point and event though it will be microscopic, it was distinctive on these types of vessels. 

I found a photo of the bow ornament and then altered the photo. I then used AI software to colorize it. I will now convert that into a decal which will go on the front.

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Posted

Todd (Sorry I got your name wrong on my first reply!),

Well, not being into the WoW stuff, I had no idea that they were producing kits - perhaps if this entry kit is popular, they will consider posting this fact on the various ship modeling forums, etc. I'll check out the link you provided. Thanks for the reply re. the weaponry - can I assume that their deck fittings are crude as well, or have they provided decent detail on those?

 

I do my own 3D design and printing - I use Design Spark Mechanical (free version) for the 3D design and currently print with an AnyCubic Photon Mono X 6K LCD printer.  The available drawings on NARA of PURITAN (NARA has more that are still not available online) do provide ample information to make detailed parts for a model but some items are a bit doubtful as to accuracy (guesstimating from photos).

 

BTW, your bow emblem looks fine - a very nice design for adding the "sparkle" to the model.

 

Hank

 

Construction Underway:

Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/200 scale USS PURITAN (BM-1) 


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

3D Design/Printed various scale USN Gun Mounts/Turrets, and GFCS Directors

Member:
New Bern Ship Modeler's Guild

NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

Posted

Welp. I torched up the acrylic glass and put the novis polish to it. I 3d printed the rest of the guides and painted them steel silver. I added the info plate. I then secured the rails to the base and added the ensign and jack. I think this is a wrap. I will take some photos up at the Joint Clubs Northeast Conference and maybe a few after it gets to its final home.

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