Santisima Trinidad by RossR - OcCre - 1:90 - Cross-Section

[RossR]

With a new shipyard, I decided to start a new model even though I am not done with my Frigate Diana.  I will get back to the Diana soon, but I am getting started on my Santisima Trinidad.  I feel like I am making some quick progress which is nice after feeling like the Diana was moving slow even before our move stopped work completely

 

The Cross Section model is started on a building board that is not part of the final model.  the "legs" of the frames are clued to the building board, but tab on the keel is only placed into the slot on the building board but not glued.  the legs of the frames will be cut off when the interior planking is complete before the outer planking is added.  The Occre instructions say to use the laser cut plywood piece for the upper deck as a guide to ensure that the frames are lined up properly when gluing the frames to the building board and the keel.  Due to the loose fit of the parts I was very concerned that the frames would lean to one side.  I decided to use my trusty Lego blocks and some clamps to make sure the two outside frames were square to the building board and to the keel, then I would use the laser cut plywood to ensure the the middle frame was properly spaced.

 

 

 

 

After a lot of trial an error on some dry runs I settled on this for the two outside frames.

 

 

The black clamps are holding the Lego blocks that are keeping everything square and the green ones are securing the frames to the keel.  I used PVA for this due to the amount of time it took to get everything in place and that everything was clamped.  My general rule of thumb is to use PVA when I can clamp effectively and CA if I need to hold it with my fingers.  

 

The middle frame was a little different.  I used some string to keep the left and right frame snug in the keel slot and the green clamps to provide the downward pressure.  

 

 

I stained the outside of the the two outside frames since these will be visible on the finished model.  I used a dark walnut stain.  I actually mistakenly stained the inside of at least two of the frames also.  I used the upper deck laser cut ply wood to ensure the middle frame was square.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

[RossR]

When I built my first model, my craftsmanship was not great.  I did a little better on my second ship, but on this build I really want to focus on the craftsmanship that goes into the build.  I really want everything to fit together well and I need to be more careful with the CA glue to minimize the glue stains. 

 

One of my concerns was in the instructions, Occre has the varnish being applied to the interior decking of the hold after the beams that support the next deck are installed.  I like to use 2 coats of shellac with a sanding using steel wool after each coat.  The thought of trying to sand the interior planking with the beams and the four posts in place seemed like it would be a struggle.  The challenge that that created was the plank just below the beams is placed based tight against the beams and without being glued in place I had to figure out a way to clamp them securely while placing the plank.  I didn't take any pictures of how I clamped the beams, but I will on the next level and post them then.  

 

 

 

The four posts that support the beams are fashioned from 4 x 4 mm lime wood.  I used a round file to create the transition from the square to the round section.  After knocking off the corners I use sandpaper and sanding sticks to round off the middle section.  

 

 

 

I generally don't use PVA if I can't clamp the parts in place, but for the posts that support the beams I used PVA because I didn't think I could get them in place with out getting glue all over, so I used PVA so I could easily clean up the excess glue.  I used CA to attache the planks to the frames and as part of improving my workmanship I focused on not getting and excess CA on the visible part of the planking.  I am pretty happy with how this turned out on this section.  I also needed to cut two planks a little narrower than the 5 mm material supplied to get a nice tight fit.  I am really happy with how it all fit together.  

 

 

The finish on the beams and the interior planking is two coats of shellac with a sanding using steel wool after each coat.  I really like the finish I get using steel wool, but I hate how messy it is to work with.  I have tried various grades of sand paper and Scotch Bright pads, and I just haven't found anything that creates the same finish, somewhere between flat and satin to my eye. 

 

I am curious if any other people that use shellac have any methods for getting a satin finish without using steel wool.  It would be nice to avoid the mess. 

 

I think I am going to try to get the first two decks installed and then get back to my Diana for a while.  

 

 

 

Edited Tuesday at 03:14 AM by RossR

[brunnels]

10 hours ago, RossR said:

I am curious if any other people that use shellac have any methods for getting a satin finish without using steel wool.  It would be nice to avoid the mess. 

On my Beagle I shellacked my masts and then used a Matte varnish on top to tone down the glossiness of the shellac, maybe you could try the same with a bit of Satin varnish?