HMS Harpy 1796 by ECK - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Scale

[ECK]

Finally had the time to start unpacking the kit. A Few others have started so I can follow along as well.

 

Ki, as all Vanguard ones, come in a pleasing box.

 

 

All elements nicely packed

 

 

Brass, copper and book up top. You can see I unwrapped the printed ship's boats and stove as well as opened the boxes containing rigging thread and various other pieces

 

 

Lower layers of the box contain the laser etched parts

 

 

Thought I would get the copper tape but was pleased when I saw actual copper plates

[ECK]

Lost of assembly work today.

 

First the cradle

 

 

 

 

 

Next faring the ribs. In this kit for the first time a line is provided  so as not to over do it

 

Next assembling the hull structure. Everything interlocks so no glue until the end

Then the reinforcing keels

 

 

Locking inserts

 

 

 

 

At this point gluing the etched decks to the underdeck.  Lots of clamps to keep the thin etched deck from curling up.

 

 

 

 

Followed by inserting them and locking them into place

 

 

 

Bow fillers sanded to line and can see when together pretty symmetric

 

 

Inserted into placed then capped

 

Last for the day are the cabin assemblies on the stern made of multiple pieces

 

 

Have to remember to make mirror images of each other

 

 

Finally slotted into place

 

A

 

At this point brushing with wood glue permissible

 

 

Edited January 13 by ECK
duplicate photos

[wvdhee]

Nearly done already 😉

Are copper plates easier/better than copper tape? and why/why not if I may ask?

 

Edited January 13 by wvdhee

[Knocklouder]

I don't know the difference between the two, I only have used plates. I installed them two at a time using  Super Phatic glue.  It was really easy to do. They are still sticking to my Pegasus. 

Bob M. 

Edited January 13 by Knocklouder
Guessing typos lol

[ECK]

I have yet to use copper tape. I opted for full copper tiles when I did Indy. Tape is easy to cut, trim and attach, no glue getting on the tiles. You do have to cut hundreds of pieces so you need a cutter seen below to make it easier and standardized. Also if you want the appearance of nails you would have to scribe 4 sides of each tile with the tool below.  Problem with the real thing is harder to trim (especially around the rudder) and use a lot of cyano. Occasionally falling off and needing to be reglued.

 

 

 

To me, the real copper tiles just look better as seen on my Indy build below

 

[wvdhee]

The tiles do look better yes. I'll opt for those then 🙂 ty

[ECK]

Next ,although not required, painted hatches and capstan base

 

 

Next sail locker, really need to clap on veneers to prevent curls. Also orient veneers so plank lines align around

 

 

 

Blue Ensin and Glenn UK took photos of brick pavers to print a base.  As I do not have a color printer decided to do something different. Used scrap base then cut out wood bricks from some 1x3. Then glued them in staggered pattern.

 

Filled with wood filler

Then painted red and rubbed down

 

Added white wash for mortar lines and rubbed again then light rubbing again with red paint

 

Next painted stove and added metallic filings to age it and mounted on faux brick base

 

 

Of course did not glue stove pipe chimney, that comes much later

 

 

Edited January 14 by ECK
For some reason duplicates show up at end

[Glenn-UK]

Nice work on the stove tiled base.

[ECK]

After seeing Glenn -UK's paint job of the lower deck, I decided to do the same. As I had already glued things, had do do a lot of taping before spraying. Unfortunately slight seepage requiring some scraping and sanding. Also recived the door handles and hinges from Syren and installed them.

 

[Glenn-UK]

Nicely done.

[ECK]

Spent a bit of time preparing the beams. First scraping the majority of the char with a scalpel then sanding

 

 

 

 

 

 

As I painted the lower bulwarks, I decided also to paint the beams, similar to the Indy.

 

 

 

Then inserting them into place

 

[ECK]

As I am waiting for the rings I purchased to come in to complete the hatch covers, I, like Glenn UK decided to do a few other repetitive tasks that need to be done. I decided to assemble the carronades and long guns. First a lot of char removal as it is hard to cover when airbrushing.

 

 

 

Although made easier by this nice tool

 

 

Next came sticking them on my painting board

 

 and finally a good airbrushing, a bit out of focus.

 

 

 

The final assembly with eyebolts and rings done. Total time to do all the guns about 6 hrs. 

 

[ECK]

Today's job was the 22 ft ships boat

 

[ECK]

Finished the 18 ft cutter. My rings came in so I can get back to the hull tomorrow.

 

 

[ECK]

Finally installed the bolts and rings then completed the beams

 

[ECK]

As advertised, the deck clicked into place without and fiddling needed

 

Next feathered the ribs

 

 

Nest the stern patterns

 

 

Finally soaked and bent the the hull siding  to dry overnight. As others have noted, you need a lot of clamps.

 

[ECK]

It has been a busy week in more ways than one.  Having glued the bulwark in, I started the planking process.  

 

 

 

 

You can see the rough planked hull

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then after cleaning it up. You can see I am trying to protect the bow as it just wants to break

 

 

Next added the outer layer over the sternpost , bow and false keel.

 

followed by the stern fascia

 

 

As Blue Ensign noted, it would be nice to cover the endgrain of the second planking rather than leaving exposed as in the original  instructions. When adding the stern fascia it is advised to sand it down flush with the first planking. I noticed there seems to be enough room to actually but the end of the second planking against it so I'll gice it a try. This would pbviate me needing to produce a larger fram from scrap pieces of wood.

 

 

As an aside, with several empty nest rooms , found a place to display several of Chris' designs, Granado, Flirt, Duchess and Adder

 

[ECK]

Spent the weekend doing the second planking. About 13 rows to go. So far pretty symmetrical.

 

 

 

So far my not sanding down the stern fascia and planking into it seems to be working

 

 

 

[Richard44]

Post deleted -  should have read ECK's post more closely 🤒.

Edited February 3 by Richard44

[ECK]

Second planking done. Here before sanding

 

 

All taped up for sanding

 

 

 

After sanding

 

 

 

 

And after a little poly

 

 

 

 

[Craigie65]

Your approach to the tuck worked well.  Looks good with a coat of varnish.👍

[ECK]

Thanks, definitely enough room. I like to add the poly since if I accidentally get paint on the unpainted areas I can scrape/ light sand off without major damage.       

 

Of note, I have tried various method of tapering the bow sections of the planks. Always hard with blade /ruler method to get each side symmetrical. Settled on marking the are to be removed, clamping the 2 planks together and then planning done to get 2 almost identical curved planks.

 

 

[ECK]

Had taped everything up tight to airbrush strake but had issues so just used old fashioned brush.  Had painted tape edges with poly to seal any spots that might bleed paint. Did this before the maindeck area to prevent any accidents.

 

 

 

[ECK]

Decided to place the deck and inner bulwarks in before coppering.The deck just needed a little tweeking but fit nicely.

 

 

 

Soaked and clamped the forward bulwark overnight then airbrushed all the parts prior to installing. 

 

Stern veneers fit after a little filing

Doors in. Used latches I had ordered from Syren and decided to airbrush the sides and roof. Of note the veneers are very delicate, unfortunately one split.

 

 

 

 

Then installed the rest

[Richard44]

You're powering ahead - looking good.

[Glenn-UK]

Looks great

[ECK]

Spent the day installing all the eyebolts, painting the gunport/sweep openings and then putting poly on it all. Tomorrow will be the start o the copper work.

 

[Glenn-UK]

The paint job looks great

[ECK]

Thanks. Airbrushing really helps with the big pieces and especially allows the engraving to be seen better.

[Blue Ensign]

Nice work ECK, I like the shade of Red used, which paint is that?

 

B.E.