Santa Maria by Kimberley - FINISHED - Revell - PLASTIC - 1:90

[marktime]

We are having even more fun watching your build. I'm learning a lot about plastic models just by following your progress. 'Aint this forum wonderful? 

[Auvergne]

Kimberley,

 

You are doing an awsome job! Keep up with this beautiful work and you will be into the contest or gallery scene. Nice job!

 

John

[Ulises Victoria]

Way to go, Kim:

You are doing a terrific job. Keep us posted!!!

[Kimberley]

Right now I am holding the back end of my ship together with my hands to get it glued tight together.   I can't clamp it tight enough.  No room for clamps.  Desperate times call for desperate measures.
WOW!  It is hard to type with one hand.     

[SteamWake]

Right now I am holding the back end of my ship together with my hands to get it glued tight together.   I can't clamp it tight enough.  No room for clamps.  Desperate times call for desperate measures.

WOW!  It is hard to type with one hand.     

 

Heh that's what rubber bands are for silly!

 

Not that I have ever done that

[Auvergne]

You are receiving superb advice Kim, keep on keeping on....

[popeye the sailor]

you'll find yourself in some strange situations,  when rubber bands and clothes pins can't suffice.  I've been in a few strange ones,  myself        looking very nice.......like your choice of color.

[realworkingsailor]

Paint job is looking great!

 

You're really starting to get the hang of this model ship building thing

 

Andy

[patrickmil]

You're doing an outstanding job on your Santa Maria! I really like the colors of paint you've chosen to apply. Very clean build so far!

[ScottRC]

Hi Kimberly,

 

Just checking in and saw your latest picture and all I can say is "WOW!"

[Kimberley]

Wow!  Thank you everyone for your compliments.  You guys do wonders for my confidence.  I am getting close to the toughest parts...masts, sails, and rigging.  I did try out the elmers glue and water trick for the thread, and it works great.  I did it for the knots on my anchors.  The thread/rope for this ship is thicker than the other ships.  Here is where I am thus far:

 

 

I have the side rails up and the anchors done.

 

 

Here is my stand.  Do you guys like the way I did this or not?  I wanted it to look aged.

 

 

Shot of the front part.

 

 

Back end.  I did not get it perfect, but I was dang close to it.

 

 

[marktime]

Aah! Good to see a round tuck on the Santa Maria. Square tuck arrived in the XVIth century.

[popeye the sailor]

you've done very well.......the hull looks great!   looks like rigging will be in your future soon      nice work!

[Kimberley]

What is a tuck?  I looked it up under our definitions, but it does not make sense to me.

[Kimberley]

Help.  Does it look like I have this front bow mast (?) on right?  The hole is left of the center front bow.  Should I move it over so it is centered, or is this how I should let it sit?  When I move it over to the center, it no longer lines up with that other mast.

 

 

[Sjors]

It called a bowsprit Kimberly.

 

I can not give you an answer if it is in the right place.

Maybe someone else can give you that answer?

 

[russ]

Kimberley:

On ships of that era, having the bowsprit offset to one side was not uncommon. That looks about right in the photograph.

 

Russ

[Jeff-E]

Hi Kimbely,

 

Your model is looking great.

 

I've just had a quick browse of other models of this ship some have the bowsprit in the centre of the ship some are offset, by the way Revell have moulded the hole in the foredeck for the bowsprit they mean it offset, so as Russ says it looks correct to mount it on the left side of the stem.  

[Kimberley]

Thank you for helping me.  I left the bowsprit on the left.  I should have all the masts up today.  I really could use your help.  Can anyone decipher this picture for me on how they want this rigging done?  I kind of get the part where all the thread is is looped on the masts, and then each one is hooked onto those pegs on those side rails.  I don't understand what they are showing in the large circles that point to the masts.  Also, what is the best way to attach the thread to the hooks/pegs on the side rails?  Thanks.

 

 

 

[patrickmil]

Kimberly, it almost looks as though they are indicating that there should be a loop up there for the shrouds to pass through. As far the where the shrouds attach to the deadeyes, I don't know. A closeup of the deadeyes would be very helpful though.

[popeye the sailor]

that's what I see as well........a loop tied under the crow's nest and caps,  in which the shrouds are passed through.  are there any tabs or hooks on the dead eyes?   if not,  could you drill a hole,  large enough to pass the thread through?    on your instructions,  I do see something that looks like a tab.

[Kimberley]

There is nothing that resembles those hook looking things holding the thread.  The thread is thinker and more rope like than regular thread, so it would have to be a big hole to run them through.  One other question.  On the decals that go in water.  How long do I dip in the water to get them off?  Here are pictures for you to see about my rigging.  Please feel free to correct my terms, so I can learn them.

 

 

Here are my leftover parts

 

 

Here is where it shows you at the top of the mast where the spot is for the rigging, which to me is where the eyelet ? should have gone if there had been any.

 

 

Here is where the rigging will be attached to at the bottom.  I am not sure how you do that.  Do I just knot them to each peg and glue the knot in place.  Or do I make a ring out of the rope to hook over

 

 

 

 

[patrickmil]

If it's similar to what is on Revell's Constitution then each deadeye should have simulated inboard and outboard lanyards attaching them deadeyes on the chainplates. You would then pass the shroud rope between these lanyards and back up to seize the loose end onto the shroud. I hope I'm making sense here.

[realworkingsailor]

Decals... Ok...

 

First off have you got any microset and microsol? Both of those will go a long way to helping sett decals down on uneven surfaces. The other thing that helps is having a glossy surface on which to apply them. Don't worry, when everything is dry over coat with dullcote to seal them in and hide all the edges.

 

First off, I use tepid water, not hot or cold. Dipping a decal in for about ten seconds is more than adequate. The the decal sit for another minute or so before you try to slide it off the paper backing. While the decal is sitting, apply a dab of microset to the area you want to apply the decal. Bring the decal (still on the paper at this time) to the area a d gently slide the decal off the paper into position. The decal should almost float in the microset (almost!). With a needle nose tweezer, carefully position the decal into place. You can now dab up any excess microset (along the edges). Gently press the decal to the plastic with a damp paper towel. When dry, apply microsol. The decal will wrinkle... It can be startling to see... But don't touch it!! It will settle down before too long as the microsol dries. When it does, take a very sharp #11 exacto knife blade and look for any bubbles that may be trapped underneath. Gently prick them with the knife and dab on some more microsol. Repeat this process until you are satisfied. Give everything a good 24 hours to dry thoroughly and over coat the decal with dullcote. This will seal and protect it from handling and damage.

 

Andy

[gieb8688]

Hi Kim,

I have had good luck filling seams by cutting small pieces of sprue and placing them in a small glass jar.  Pour in liquid cement and either add more sprue pieces or more cement until you get a thick paste like consistency.  Place it on the seams as even as you can and finish up by filing and sanding.  Keeping it in a glass jar will preserve the mix and allow use on other models.  

Thanks,

Mark

[ScottRC]

If you cannot get the Microset or Microsol, then put a few tablespoon of white vinegar in your water and use distilled water if possible. The chlorine and sulfates in tap water can cause a reaction with the decals surface binder making it hard or causing it to delaminate.  Testor's makes a Decal set solution but the two that Andy suggested work much better and I have used these with tap water. 

 

I regards to the big red crosses, you may find them, as I found, easier to paint them than fiddle with the decals. In fact I think I used a red marker if I remember, been a long time.  It would be much more realistic and was more fun, since the outlines are molded into the sail it was easy to stay in the lines.  But paint the sails first

[Kimberley]

@ Patrick - Sorry I am confused.  I did look up your terms, but I still don't quite understand them, or what you are trying to tell me.  It does not show me at all how they are attaching the rope to the chainplates attached to the ship.  What is a landyard?  Is it something that would have been included in my parts?  My biggest problem right now is the picture I posted above these pictures.  It is showing how all the rope is supposed to go through a loop attached to the top of the mast.  There is nothing in my parts that resembles them.  I don't know if I am supposed to create it with the rope.  I really wish they would give me more close up pictures in the directions.

 

@ Andy - Where do I get microset or microsol?

 

@ Mark - Thank you for the tip.  Could you explain what seams you are talking about.

 

This rigging part is going to be the death of me!  This is the part they should really spend more time on in their directions, and they should show close ups.

[realworkingsailor]

If it's not available at your local hobby shop, you can get it from Microscale:

 

http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-2

 

http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-1&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=1

 

 

 

Andy

[gieb8688]

Hi Kim,

Any seam resulting from two pieces of plastic glued together.  In my experience with plastic models there is always a seam of some sort resulting from two halves being brought together.  By using the sprue technique you are using the same material the model is made from to fill and/or smooth out the glued seam.  Once it dries, you file, sand and the seam disappears.  I have been using this technique successfully for years.

Thanks,

Mark

[Kimberley]

I am very sad.   My shrouds turned out terrible.  The rope/thread for them was horrible.  It would not tighten at all.  It is like a thicker, kind of waxy, hard thread.  Anyway, I did get creative and make them look a little better.  I still have some ends I need to clip in these pictures.