Milling Machine

[dragzz]

i was thinking of getting one this MicroLux Milling Machine 

 

http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com/item--Milling%20Machine--41131 i jus wanted know what u all think i want to use for ship building and stuff ples let me know what u all think thank u

[NenadM]

All depends of your ambition and money

[dragzz]

i have the money for it but want to know is really worth it and does anyone have that thay use iam not to sure about it just dont want to waste money if u know what i mean 

[WackoWolf]

If you have the money you should maybe look at Sherline web site before you buy, there is also Taig and a few others that are better. This is my option, and I have all Sherline equipment, but it does come down to you and how much you want to spend. The add-ons is what is going to cost you in the long run,try and get the best package deal you can. If you go with Sherline tell them that you are retired and you will get a discount.They stand by there product 100% all the time. do yourself a favor and check them all out before you make a buy.

[dragzz]

tys wack i wilook them up befor i do anything tys for the great info

[captainbob]

There is a topic “What do you use your mill for.”  Check it out. you may not need a mill.

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2755-what-do-you-use-your-mill-for/#entry75019

[dragzz]

tys cap did not see that thanks

[JPett]

Ahoy Dragzz 

 

For model shipbuilding I find a Dremel mounted in a drill press with an XY table sufficient for most milling needs

 

Here is a link to my set up

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1643-x-y-attachment-for-dremel/?p=54766

 

The problem I found when I did my research was that most mills require an upgrade to achieve the speeds needed to mill at the scale that we require. This was not a problem for the Dremel. This scale also does not require the power that most mills provide.

 

Proxxon also makes a hobby mill http://www.proxxontools.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=63&idcategory=31

Blue Ensign has had very good success with this product.

 

These will be my next purchases

Dividing attachment

http://www.proxxontools.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=66&idcategory=31

Z axis fine adjustment

http://vanda-layindustries.com/html/mill_accessories.html

 

The extras needed to mill can easily exceed the cost of the mill. Another item to consider. One day I may own a full sized mill but when that day comes I will take the experience learned with my set up to make that purchase. Good luck with whatever path you choose

Edited November 5, 2013 by JPett

[SkerryAmp]

Wow,  J.Pett - thank you.  Just what I have been looking for.  

 

I have checked out the other mills but they always seemed too much for what I have been considering.  The Dremel in a Drill press is a good idea (but I need a better drill press, the dremel press - at least the one I got - isn't true so it doesn't work quite right).

 

However, that proxxon hobby mill ... now we are talking!

[mtaylor]

Sherline makes a kit to overdrive their mill.   Possible that it might fit the Micromark.  For the money, they're not bad machines.   I have the mini version which I modded for 12,000 rpm or so... In hindsight, I should have bought the Sherline version of MM's R8 or the R8.  Bigger is sometimes better.

[tkay11]

One of the things I've been considering is to continue with my Proxxon Micromot 50/E (5,000rpm- 20,000) but to add a Proxxon MB 200 drill stand and the KT 70 table. The mill MF 70 has exactly the same speed range (albeit with a higher power of 100W) but I'm still trying to find out if the MB 200 drill stand can really be used with fine vertical adjustment as a milling device. Does anyone have any knowledge of this combination?

 

Am I right in thinking that speeds of 20,000 rpm suit milling wood with small mills (about 1mm diam)  very well?
 

Tony

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Here is a link to upgrade the Micro-Mark Milling Machine and some others

 

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2560&category=

 

 

Tkay11: I don't have a tach on my Dremel but don't find much difference in the speed range when milling. I think once you go over 5K it is irrelevant. I do find the higher speeds will burn the wood faster. As for the "X" axis that was another reason I went with the Vanda Lay. 

Edited November 5, 2013 by JPett

[NMBROOK]

I had posted a which miller topic a while back.Having weighed up the options I went for the Proxxon MF70.Love it to bits.A lot depends what you have in mind but 90% of the work it gets used for is with cutters between 1 and 3mm.I know from when I was trained in using machine tools(for metals)everything is about the correct cutting speed.Cutting speed is not rpm but the actual speed between the cutting edge and workpiece.Obviously the smaller the cutter the higher the rpm to reach this cutting speed.The disadvantage with using a Dremel is that the main spindle is not designed for milling and can result in bearing run out problems.

Kind Regards Nigel

[mtaylor]

Ahoy Mates

 

Here is a link to upgrade the Micro-Mark Milling Machine and some others

 

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2560&category=

 

That's the one I've seen and fits all the mills coming out of Central Machine.  The Sherline is similar but designed for their equipment.   Be very aware... it kills the warranty as the bearings are rated for the higher rpm.  They need to be run in and watched for heating.

[ChrisLBren]

What do you guys use these for ? - i think there is a thread somewhere - just being lazy. 

[JPett]

Ahoy NMBrook

 

The higher end Dremel and Proxxon offerings are designed for some side loading. Not quite what one might need when milling a piece of 3/4" steel but enough to last years on small pieces of hardwood in a mill configuration. I am also sure there is some deflection which to date I can not measure but for the hobbyist on a budget I highly recommend this set up over a full on mill.

[NMBROOK]

In answer to your question Tony I suggest you PM mij (sussex scratchbuild)as I know he is using the set up you refer to.

An example of what I use and will be using mine for

Housing joints

Gang milling of gun carriage sides(can machine 50 at a time all identical)

Machining square section of masts(octagonal using the dividing head I have)

Spiral staircase pillars using dividing table

Scarph joints

Capstans using rotary table

Cutting slots in knightheads

Housing joints

Keel rabbets

I could go on and on

Kind Regards Nigel

[NMBROOK]

Hi J Pett

They are not the same.The dremel's motor armature is in line with the spindle reducing effective spindle length and distance between bearings,on a milling machine and pillar drill for that matter the spindle is full length of the casing,this being driven by belt or gear indirectly from the motor.This puts the bearings much further apart increasing the resistance to sideloading.I know that if I put my dremel in a stand it would snap my 1mm cutter.When you add up the cost(in the uk at least)a high end dremel a stand with no movement and some sort of vertical indexing and the xy table it comes to the same price as the MF70.

Kind Regards Nigel

Edited November 5, 2013 by NMBROOK

[Bill Hime]

I have been shopping these mills for awhile now. The bottomline for wood work is rpm. The Proxxon or the Dremel are the only two meeting the 20,000 rpm need for working hardwood. Between the two, for my needs, the Proxxon is much more staple and will hold to much tighter tolerances. Cost, the Proxxon is almost half the price @ $400 vs the Microlux @ $795. 

I would be using it primarily for inlay work. Or flush-setting hinges and other metal work. I think for my purposes, the Proxxon will be sitting on my workbench after the first of the year.

I should add as other uses, any joinery I would do in the cabinet shop or post and beam work I can replicate in my ships. 

 

Warm Regards,

 

BIll

Edited November 5, 2013 by Bill Hime

[ChrisLBren]

Thanks Nigel - I'm planning my first full frame Ancre build after Confederacy - I hear a lot of modelers on this forum mentioning mills.  Frolich makes no mention of them in his book - so appreciate the info.  

[NMBROOK]

Hi again JPett humble pie for me The MF70 is direct drive,but what I said holds true for larger millers.

Kind Regards Nigel

[NMBROOK]

No Problem Chris,it isn't a case of Having to have one,I managed for thirty years without,but as I am sure you are aware,producing the above without a mill takes a lot of time to do accurately.Having the machine speeds up the not so interesting jobs so you can spend more time doing the bits you really enjoy.

Kind Regards Nigel

[ChrisLBren]

Thanks Nigel - given the fact I'm building the 118 Gun L'Orient or the 74 Gun Ship after Le Gros Ventre - one of these might make sense !

[dragzz]

ok well all of u guy have gave me great info my dad is getting me a mill he want me to do work for him now lol so i have 1800.00 to spend iam in canada what one do u all think i should get going to buy tommorw

[tkay11]

Thanks, Nigel. I am sending a pm to MIJ as suggested.

 

Tony

[NMBROOK]

No Problem Tony,I think he uses the other small proxxon xy The one you refer to is the same as mine

Kind Regards Nigel

[NMBROOK]

Hi Dragzz

I am biased but if you want to use small cutters then the MF70+precision vice+dividing head and have plenty of change.For larger cutters then choose something else from the many 'slower' machines.It all boils down to what you want to use it for,so that is the real question.I will invest in a larger proxxon machine for bigger cutters/cuts at a later date but for the majority of what I do,it would be useless because of the slow speed.

Kind Regards Nigel

[tkay11]

Thanks, Nigel for the clarification and to JM Pett for the advice about speeds. It does sound as though the Proxxon MF 70 is the way to go as so many on this forum use it happily.

 

I'll still wait to find out more about using my Proxxon Micromot 50/E in the MB 200 drill stand as the stand is advertised as allowing milling work with the mini-drill but I can't see how it allows for fine vertical adjustment as there are no manuals available online for this particular stand.

 

Tony

[NMBROOK]

The only gripe I have with mine if I am being very picky and this may not apply to all the MF70's out there.There is about 0.2mm backlash on the vertical feed,I can work round this,It doesn't move you just have to compensate when using the dial scale.I have found a cheapish solution from Chronos engineering tools in the UK.It is a straight vernier scale with digital readout and zero function that fits to the pillar and head.It is fairly inexpensive at about 40 quid but makes life easier anyway.You can actually fit one to all three axis if you wish as they come in different lengths.I may yet do that so I don't keep having to do sums in my head whilst working

[rtropp]

I have been looking at Mills for awhile now and had almost decided on the Microlux micro.  The I read all your comments about rpms needing to be 20k or higher.  The top speed for the Microlux micro is listed as 2,800.  I have asked Chuck P, as model designer to comment on his experience with the Microlux Micro. I am hoping some other owners will comment.

 

In my research I have found negative comments about the Proxxon MF70 on Amazon.  There are a few comments about wobble, x or y table with too much play, etc. But, the cost is the best price to buy into milling. The Microlux looks great and has a lot of attachments to play with but there is that 2,800 rpm cap which I did not realize might be too great a limitation.

 

So I am in kind of a quandary, the Dremel work table is pitiful for this purpose.  The Proxxon drill stand with x-y and rotary drill (I only have dremel) or Vandalay equipment would cost a good portion of the price of a stand alone machine. And Byrnes does not make one

 

Being a milling beginner, I do not want to be disappointed problems with the equipment itself while learning.

 

What's a poor boy to do!

 

Richard T