SS Stadacona by realworkingsailor - Sylvan Scale Models - 1:87 - Resin/Multimedia - kit-bash

[realworkingsailor]

Nice subject, looking forward to follow this. Remember to use a good mask when sanding the resin. Dangerous stuff to breath...

/Matti

Hi Matti,

 

Everyone tells me to be careful with resin, but from my research, it seems to have an effect only if you are already allergic to it (just like CA glue). Look under "health and safety": http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyurethane

 

Andy

[Jim Lad]

Nice progress, Andy - she's really coming on.

 

By the way, you mentioned officers quarters forward and galley aft (been away for a couple of days so catching up) - did the officers have to tramp aft for their meals or did the steward have to cart  it all the way up forward?

 

John

[realworkingsailor]

Having worked one season on a forward end job.... We walked back for meals. Rest assured, however, that most of these ships were fitted with side tunnels just below the main deck so you could make your way aft safely in any weather.

 

Andy

[Jim Lad]

most of these ships were fitted with side tunnels just below the main deck so you could make your way aft safely in any weather.

 

That's what I was wondering, Andy.

 

John

[NAZGÛL]

Hi! The dust from sanding is dangerous, so be careful at those steps.

 

/Matti

[popeye the sailor]

that's funny Andy........I thought that as well,  when I read the question.....can you imagine having to don a safety rope,  tethering it all the way aft on deck.   bad weather......waves crashing on the deck........I sure wouldn't want to be topside

[realworkingsailor]

Carrying on....

 

Spent a lot of time yesterday cutting out windows.... a tedious task, pretty much on par with tying ratlines... but with the added risk of turning fingers (or the styrene sheet) to hamburger. A word of advice.... always use a fresh sharp blade, it won't hang up as much in the plastic, decreasing the ammount of force needed to make the cuts. And always make a cut in several light passes, don't try and cut through on the first pass.....

 

So... the windows... yes... an important feature of the pilot house, whose sides I have now completed. I made most of them from 0.030" sheet, but the forward curved part I opted to use 0.020" sheet. A little thinner to help make the curve a little easier. A few more finishing touches and it will be ready to paint. I won't be putting the top on just yet. I have to finish the interior after painting... and add window glazing. For now it will have to sit as a hollow shell.

 

Also got some 0.040" round stock to cap off the Texas Deck (Yes, that's what it's really called) bulwark.

 

I know right now it seems I'm repetitively posting various shades of the colour white, but believe me, a ship is emerging slowly from all of that. When the time comes to paint, it will make a startling difference.

 

Andy

[popeye the sailor]

awesome work Andy..........the pilot house came out very nice! 

[realworkingsailor]

Thanks Popeye, I'll have further updates tomorrow on my progress. I've since started work on the "eye brow" over the windows as well as a removable (for the time being) top for it as well.

 

Andy

[lambsbk]

It is HUGE Andy. Maybe I missed it but how will you display the finished build?

[Jim Lad]

All those windows - you must have nerves of steel, Andy!

 

John

[TBlack]

Andy,

Those windows came out gloriously! Not easy to cut so many parallel lines. Bravo Zulu!

Tom

[realworkingsailor]

It is HUGE Andy. Maybe I missed it but how will you display the finished build?

She's going to be part of a scene on a model railway club layout. (I'm a part of the club BTW). The scene will be a representation of the Stelco steel mill in Hamilton, Ontario, which received a large part of their raw materials via lake boat.

 

All those windows - you must have nerves of steel, Andy!

 

John

And all my fingers too

 

Hi Andy

 

With so many bulk carriers on the great lakes just how is it that you choice the S.S Stadacona to build, It's Just that I am curious that's all, Enjoy.

 

Regards Lawrence

First off, I wanted to model a ship from the company I work for (proudly celebrating the 100th anniversary of its formation this year). Secondly, I had to find a ship that was proportionately similar. In this case, the major dimensions scale out to roughly 70% of the prototype, so she's slightly selectively compressed, but believeable. Thirdly, for some sadistic reason, I've wanted to build this kit up as a self-unloader.

And finally she had to be operating through different eras. On the club layout, the goal is to be able to depict the changing railway scene in southern Ontario from the 50s to the 90s, and although my ship was not always a self unloader (converted in 1958/59), or was owned by CSL (sold in the mid/late 60s), she did last until 1983.

 

Hope that answers your question(s)

 

Andy

Edited December 6, 2013 by realworkingsailor

[TBlack]

Andy,

Some time ago I looked at the portholes that you put in your superstructure and marveled at their roundness, figured you just drilled them out. Fast forward to my build of Vinal Haven where I had to put a hole through styrene to acommodate the pipe for the whistle. The heat from the drill melted the plastic such that I ended up with a hole bigger than I intended. Easy enough to fix, but did you do something differently to avoid the problem?

Tom

[kurtvd19]

Tom:

The trick to making round holes in styrene is to use a brad point drill bit in a variable speed drill at a slow speed.  The brad point bit has a sharp center point and the cutting edge of the drill bit is at the outer edge of the bit.  The initial contact with the surface is with the point and then the outer edges making a circle around the point that is cut before the inner surface of the drill bit touches the plastic.  Makes for a real neat hole without danger of grabbing the plastic as an ordinary bit can do.  Use a slow speed on the drill and very thin plastic can be cut easily as well as thicker resins.  Just don't ever use these bits on anything other than wood or plastic.

Kurt

[realworkingsailor]

If you're going with a power drill, yes a brad point is the way to go. I did all mine by hand, so I used ordinary drill bits, but I start small and work my way up to the size I want. A final touch up with a round file and voila..... Port holes.

 

Andy

[realworkingsailor]

More work on the forward house. It seems every time I turn around, there some other little bit to be added on. One of those perilous things about knowing how actual ships are built.... it can make things rather tedious...

 

So I've finished the eyebrow over the forward pilot house windows. I've also added monkey's island (yes the IS what the top of the wheel house is called.... stop laughing..... seriously..... stop it!). It is removable for now, so that after painting, I can still access the inside to I can add all the nice details.

 

I then carried on the deck framing under the Texas deck. A few more bits to add around the sides and the forward corners.

 

And finally, just for good measure, in case anyone has forgotten how big this beast of a model ship really is....

 

Andy

 

[Jim Lad]

Andy,

 

Nice to see that someone else frames under decks (what the heck is a 'Texas deck'?)!

 

Did you shape the curved eyebrow by geometry or guesswork?

 

John

[realworkingsailor]

I have no idea where the term originated, but on a forward end job, the deck below the wheelhouse is traditionally called the Texas deck. But this seems a reasonable enough explanation: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Texas_(steamboat)

 

As for the eyebrow, I'd love to be able to tell you how I calculated all the geometry and worked out all the radii..... But to be honest, it was half way between a lucky guess, trial and error and referring to the part supplied for the kit pilot house. With a small dose of swearing thrown in for good measure

 

Andy

[TBlack]

That eyebrow looks fabulous! John and I both want to know how'd you pull that off so smoothly?

 

Tom

 

I see I posed my question at the same time you answered. I'll keep quiet next time. But I'm shocked! Shocked! that a sailor would swear!

Edited December 6, 2013 by TBlack

[Jim Lad]

Tom (and Andy) - sailors swear, but officers use occasional expletives!

 

I can see I'm going to learn a lot about North American shipping by the time this build is completed.

 

John

[realworkingsailor]

It's very different from the rest of the world, a unique take on short-sea shipping. If you get the chance, you should tour the Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway system, you'd find it very worth while.

 

Andy

[Jim Lad]

Just send me the tickets and I'll be there, Andy!

 

John

[Beef Wellington]

Very interesting model Andy.  As for the challenges of glueing styrene to resin, struggling with that first hand now.  Are there any techniques you'd recommend?  Epoxy just seems so much work.

[realworkingsailor]

To be honest, bite the bullet and go with CA. Get a respirator and gloves too, if you need them. Make sure any mould release is washed off the resin first, before gluing parts. Also it helps to rough up the mating surfaces a little with some 220 grit sandpaper. Hope that helps.

 

Andy

[popeye the sailor]

that's quite a ship Andy........I notice your using Tenex........careful with that stuff.   I read the cautions on the side of the bottle,  and I quickly put it back on the shelf.   resin dust has nothing on that stuff.

 

great job on the wheel house roof.....you handle styrene like you've done it before!   can't wait to see how you detail the inside 

[realworkingsailor]

Like many of the chemicals we use, ventilation is the key. I have a large ceiling fan that can move a considerable quantity of air.... Also being sparing with the application and keeping the lid on the bottle as much as possible, keeps the fumes to a minimum.

 

As for the wheelhouse details, most are already supplied with the kit and just need a bit of cleaning up. But all that will have to wait until the painting has happened.

 

Andy

[Sjors]

Hi Andy,

 

You show us the size of the model and you have to put it on the floor....

Your workbench is to short ??????

When you are painting her, I think you gonna use airbrush ?

And then not at home but you have to go to a garage with a paint cabin ?????    

When she is finished and you want to put her in a case, it cost you a fortune.......

And you have to make space in your house .....

 

[realworkingsailor]

Sjors,

Yes I will be using an airbrush (and the odd rattle can too). She will be painted at the club, as we have a spray booth. She will also be displayed there as part of the layout, so no cases need to be bought, or space made in the house (at least after she's built).

 

And for the record, it's not that my bench is too short.... More like it's too crowded....

 

Andy

Edited December 7, 2013 by realworkingsailor

[Padeen]

Hi Andy,

I missed the beginning of this log but I'll follow it from now on. That's a very interesting build... and quite a change from Peggy!

Have fun!