USS Constitution by lambsbk – Revell – 1/96 - PLASTIC – With Fiber Optics

[lambsbk]

Strike one. I went to Hobby Town tonight looking for 2 items: 0.060" clear styrene sheets and glue for clear plastic (I know I have seen it). Neither were available...

      

       I will try online...

Edited July 23, 2015 by lambsbk

[augie]

Tower hobbies may have both

 

http://www.towerhobbies.com/

[JesseLee]

Wow Augie! I have never seen such a large selection of glues!

[popeye the sailor]

it's a tough call Dave.........but a lot of folks do it,  even though the above decking may hide the extra detail.   unless your doing a cut-a-way,  or an admiralty style build,  it cannot be avoided......some of it will disappear.

 

 

you've done well on the pumps........a lot better than where Revell want you to put them 

[lambsbk]

The clear plastic 0.060" sheets arrived this week so it is time to start experimenting. I started with copolyesther. They are completely flat so my first job was to add some camber to the deck. I had an old semi-curved office sign that was pretty close to the correct angle so into the oven at 220 degrees it went and then reformed to the correct camber. A little shrinkage occurred but it did not change the plastic thickness that much (0.005"). I then traced out the deck pattern. Cutting has not been started because I don't have a scroll saw (yet). So far so good....

 

Before camber...

 

After camber added...

 

Roughly traced deck outline...

 

I have some acrylic also but it seems a little unwieldy. I am still going to try using it as well but it cracks easily so far.

Edited August 4, 2015 by lambsbk

[texxn5]

Hi Dave, just catching up on your log. Very nice idea about being able to see all your work down below. We have been traveling again. Currently in Bar Harbor, Me, heading south now from Lubec, Me on the New Brunswick border. Been cold and windy here. Not sure where or what direction we're going from here yet. Let me know if you are looking for a particular scroll saw and I'll give you the best possible deal on any of the Proxxon ones. Hope Fran is doing better now.

Take care my friend,

John & Diane

[lambsbk]

I sent you a PM John.

[texxn5]

Hi Dave, I PM'd you with the tool information. Just checking to make sure you recieved it.

[lambsbk]

Experiment 1 is done. I shaped the polycarbonate with simple tools and it shaped up fairly well.

 

 

I then placed a little bit of deck furniture (masts, fife rails, gun, etc.) to get a feel for the look. Still not sure about it so please chime in guys. I think as the rest of the guns with their tackle, the rigging lines, and the rest of the deck furniture are placed it will give a "feel" for the forward spar deck presence even though it is invisible. I will turn the lamps on tonight and see how it looks with those as well.

 

[augie]

To me, it's interesting.  But the key is how you feel about it.

[lambsbk]

Just to note: I still am working on the coamings and grates. That will also add to the overall look of this clear deck section.

[lambsbk]

Yes that's my dilemma Augie. I am not sure how I feel about it yet.

[billt]

I like the idea.  After you go to all that work on the gun deck only to cover it up could be a little disheartening.  Maybe scribe some deck lines  on the poly and blacken them to help with the feel.

[JesseLee]

I like the idea too

[lambsbk]

I did take a few night shots. They are a little grainy but the pics did come through. I do tend to agree with you billt: it is too clear. I will have to think about that a little. I will try the deck lines on scrap and see how they look.

 

Edited August 10, 2015 by lambsbk

[shiloh]

Like the idea, if you could include the spar deck beams under that plastic, it would add to the effect you are attempting to obtain. The plastic over the spar deck beams could be used  to support partial sections of the deck beams. Start them all, but cut most back at random intervels leaving only a few full width. Can you soften the lighting in the forward area? Sorry if I sound critical, not my intent, I think you are doing a fanstac job. The intent of my coments is intended to be constructive only. You have demonstraited that my sugestions are well within your abilities, should you find them worthy of consideration.

jud

Edited August 11, 2015 by shiloh

[lambsbk]

It's the camera shiloh. "In person" the lights are not that bright and do mimic the lantern light well. I am still thinking through this clear deck business. It has definitely skewed the overall look and I am not sure I like that yet. Thanks though.

 

Dave

[popeye the sailor]

I kinda like it dave........dress it up with the deck beams,  knees and scribe work,  and it will look even better.   it's very different.......definitely a one of a kind idea......I've never seen it before.

[lambsbk]

I am heading back from vacation in a few days and have decided to give the clear foredeck a try with the beam structure under it. However, this choice is not without it's challenges. I have not figured out the beam structure plan yet and will defer to other modelers and ship plans that have gone before me. I especially am concerned with getting the knees into position midst the already positioned port door cables (easier to change) and the guns (which are already in place and can not be moved without some serious demolition.) I am certain the port door cables will have to be revised in this section but the position they are in currently is not accurate anyway and I have been unhappy with their placement for quite a while. At least this will give me an incentive to change some of them. I think I have worked out a way to attach a block and cable to the UNDER deck for these port cables.

 

If the clear deck does not work than I will try a cut-away foredeck which other modelers have already proven does work. 

Edited September 4, 2015 by lambsbk

[augie]

Brave decision.  We'll be watching !!

[lambsbk]

I have not had time to work the framing of the forward spar deck yet but have at least a preliminary plan. The knees may be impossible to include but I haven't given up yet.

 

On another note however my wife surprised me with a home decorated birthday cake today. Chocolate - my favorite. Hmmm...maybe I should get her to help with sails and rigging the model when that time comes.

 

 

...not bad for her first 'ship cake.'

Edited September 21, 2015 by lambsbk

[augie]

Not bad?????  I think it looks great.  HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!

[youngtiger1]

Totally cool cake and I'm sure it's just as delicious...so, happy birthday Dave

 

Mike

[texxn5]

Happy Birthday Dave....Fran did an outstanding job....rigging for her might be a good idea....then it's a family project. Sorry we won't be able to meet up this year, but we spent all our time in New England -- now headed back to Texas probably sometime in October. Glad you guys are doing well...have some shrimp and grits for us.

John & Diane

[historyguysteve]

WOW that clear deck is both gutsy and innovative- truly one-of-a-kind!! I say develop this idea until you are comfortable with it and go for it. Kudos for thinking out of the box. You will certainly be able to show off all of the work done on the gun deck.

   thanks

  steve

[texxn5]

Hope you and Fran are high and dry.  This storm has been something else!  

Take care and be safe my friend.

John & Diane

[lambsbk]

We have been told to stay off the roads and stay home. Ours was never in any serious flood risk but there are so many around us in lower lying areas that have lost so much. Keep those prayers coming...

[billt]

Stay  safe.

[Geoff Matson]

Just found your sight. Your Conny is turning out great. I look forward to following your future progress

[lambsbk]

It has been a long time since I was able to think about my build. Life is finally slowing down a little again. I have been contemplating how to make the timbers or frames on the forward section of the spar deck. I have several issues: 1) the model is nowhere near finalizing the width of the deck - this width will change ever so slightly with the addition of the spar deck and rigging. Placing the timbers by glueing them will ruin the ability of the model to "reshape" as these elements are added. 2) the plexiglas depth is slightly more than the Revell deck so the frames will have to be a little lower than the model deck supports. Getting a strong bulwark to frame bond will be more difficult without the Revell supports. 3) Bonding the plexiglas to the frames without destroying the clarity will be a challenge.

 

With these things in mind I am going to try to support the frames externally by wire or 1/16" plastic round. this will allow the fromes to float slightly. It doesn't have to be much (1 or 2/32") and still get the stronger support I need. I drew out a rough plan of this idea and the next step is to work out the frame widths. (The drawing is for displaying the idea about mounting the frames. The actual frame detail will be per available references.)