Grants Triton - FINISHED

[Boccherini]

The couplings for the motors arrived, everything is assembled. The two parts are separated by about 1.4m. I plan on making them about 2.5 - 3m apart after working out how to make rope of a consistent quality.

The control box circuitry was designed by one of the MSW members (cristikc, I think) several years ago. I have misplaced the diagram, which almost had a disastrous impact. Being an electronic illiterate, I connected the power supply back to front, resulting in a vile smell and wisps of smoke from the original control box. Fortunately, there was no apparent damage, everything still functions.

 

 

All the reading I've done on ropewalks make it seem a relatively simple exercise to produce good quality rope. It took 4 attempts to get the desired result, only to realise the rope was wound in the wrong direction. Getting the next length with the right twist took another 5 attempts. I don't know if it's me, or if all the articles were a little optimistic. Anyway, I think I'm starting to get the hang of this set up, and should have it worked out over the weekend. Pictures of the rope are not as good as hoped.

 

 

Thanks to cristikc(?) for the control circuitry design and Keith (Jack Nastyface), for his input and experience with the mechanical side of things.

 

Grant.

 

 

 

 

[Paddy]

That's a very nice looking job on the ropewalk.

 

I sure understand about the finger check that  occured on the pre-flight.    I'm no stranger to such occurrences.    

Edited April 26, 2013 by Paddy

[Boccherini]

Thanks Paddy. I have just about got the hang of the ropewalk, no more tangled messes. Trials are over, now just waiting for the DMC thread to arrive before making the rope for the gun rigging.

Here are some better pictures of the finished rope, the one on the left had a little more tension on it during lay up.

 

[42rocker]

Nice looking rope work. Hope to get to that point someday.

 

Later 42rocker

[rafine]

Nice looking machine and rope, Grant. I'm afraid that I'll stick to commercial rope.

 

Bob

[Boccherini]

Thanks for the comments. Bob, when I first started this hobby, I never considered where it would lead. Just went along for the ride. You may yet surprise yourself.

 

Regards,

Grant.

Edited April 30, 2013 by Boccherini

[edmay]

Hello Grant,many thanks for taking the time to give a lesson and info on ring making etc,will save the data and try it out,Edwin

[Boccherini]

Thanks Edwin, I'm glad the information is useful to you.

 

Regards,

Grant.

[harvey1847]

Hello Grant! Really nice machine. I guess you´re going to save a lot a of money by doing the rope by  yourself.

 

Can I ask you to post a sketch of the whole system? I do not understand how the thing works, specially why they are fix to the table the machines or if they move with a rail or something. Just a hand made sketch. Coukld you?

 

Best wishes!

 

 

Daniel.

[Boccherini]

Daniel,

it's not the cost, it's the quality. Commercially available ropes do not look quite right. If you put them side by side, there is large difference. As to the second part of your question, please bear with me, I'll get to it as soon as I can.

 

Regards,

Grant.

[Boccherini]

Daniel,

my drawing skills are little off, I've tried a photo tutorial instead. If you need any clarification, just ask. Please bear in mind I'm a novice ropemaker, still learning as I go. The motors are reversible 12v DC type, rotating @ 70rpm. The gearing speeds this up to about 290 rpm.

 

 

I apologise for the clarity of the inserted text, it looked great on the originals, but has not worked out very well here. If you can't make out what's been written, please let me know, I'll translate.

 

Regards,

Grant.

 

 

[harvey1847]

THANK YOU VERY MUCH Grant!

 

I will keep that tutorial in my "research folder" for sure.

 

 

Thanks again.

 

 

Daniel.

[Paddy]

Grant, thanks for taking the time to give us the pictorial. I have started to think about cordage, if only some short pieces to use as an accoutrement to store in the finished cross section.

[Long9Ron]

Thanks Grant for posting your rope walk. Can I place an order now? 

Just kidding, it looks great. I must file this for future use. Thanks again.

[Matrim]

Might be worth adding that to the database. Especially if it is relevant to the Byrnes one as well.

 

Joss

[Boccherini]

Thanks guys for the interest. It's an interesting diversion, and now the procedure is sorted out, it is possible to produce good looking scale rope 100% of the time. The DMC thread has arrived, I'll post some pictures of real rope (not the practice 'eco' rope) in the next few days.

Joss, I don't know how relevant this ropewalk is to the Byrnes one, they are different designs from the brief look I've had at the Byrnes model. If you think it may be useful, I can tidy it up for the database.

 

Regards,

Grant.

[42rocker]

Grant

Would love to see and hear more about this rope walk.

 

Later 42rocker

[Paddy]

Grant, the more I study your rope walk the more I like the simplicity of the design. Looks like you can also operate it hands free once you get the tension set correctly, hanging weight?, and have the speed of the wrap adjusted  where you want it. I think it’s time for the gathering of parts and attempt a copy of your design. For a power supply I’m wondering if a model train transformer would do the job with the variable speed control and direction switch to give you LH or RH twist? I have one stored away in the locker somewhere and if it would work then I’ve found a real use for it.

 

Hear, hear on adding your design to the database Joss speaks of.

[Boccherini]

42rocker,

thanks for the interest. What information are you interested in?

Paddy,

thanks for the comments. The design is just a hybrid of the ropewalk modellers have been using for a long time, and it's not my design. The original model was by Keith (Jack Nastyface). His was a nice piece of machinery from aluminium plate, even had a counter for the revolutions if my memory is right. I picked his brain several years ago (he also had the design in the original MSW database). It's taken this long to get around to finishing it. Yeah, the counterweight allows handsfree operation. This is handy as the thread sometimes starts to twist together whilst unwinding in the initial phase, I just run a skewer between the threads back to the traveller to separate them. Can't see why the train controller shouldn't work. The motor is the important bit though, it needs to be reversible and low rpm, Keith reckoned the ropewalk should have a top speed of somewhere around 400rpm, mine gets to about 290rpm. I had a lot of trouble finding a suitable 12v motor and reasonably priced gears, slightly faster would've been better, but I can live with the end result. It works.

The two short pieces in the picture are commercially available model rope for comparison. The coil on the bottom left is made up of two threads not three.

 

 

 

[Boccherini]

Finally finished off the blocks for the gun tackle using the traditional manual technique. The copper wire jig made rounding off the blocks a lot easier. The little gouge is made from a broken 0.5mm drill bit epoxied into a piece of dowel, then a chisel end ground onto it. It was used to make the grooves in the ends of the blocks and to round off the holes to give the appearance of a sheave. I tried the hypodermic needle approach suggested in TFFM books, but kept bending them.

The blocks are not all identical, but for a first attempt at this, I'm more than happy with the results. They look a lot better than kit supplied blocks.

 

 

Regards,

Grant.

[rafine]

Great looking blocks, Grant.

 

Bob

[Paddy]

That cordage looks excellent Grant and compared to the store bought quickly explains the reason for making your own.

 

Also, another thank you for your block making technique. Good stuff.

 

P.S. Asked my better half what DMC was and she quickly explained it to me.  

Edited May 11, 2013 by Paddy

[Pete38]

Good looking blocks and your rope is very nice also. great job

[Boccherini]

Bob, Paddy & Pete, thanks for the comments. Due to my excessive rounding on the edges of the hatch gratings, I decided to redo them. The second attempt is much better. Started to experiment with a stain colour for the rope, and eventually arrived at a dilution ratio that I'm happy with.

 

 

Regards,

Grant.

[42rocker]

While your 1st set of gratings looked good, I agree that your 2nd set looks better. Nice redo.

Your rope is looking good also.

 

Later 42rocker

[Paddy]

Grant, I like the contrast in the woods you picked for the Deck Beams and Carlings to the Ledges.

 

The new grating looks very good and the colour that you arrived at on the cordage looks the part. Well done on all!    

 

Are the grating and deck planks the same wood? Thanks.

[Matrim]

As always looking great 

 

Joss

[Rustyj]

The grating redo, although I didn't think it was needed, is an improvement.

The rope work is impressive too. Thanks for sharing.Your're doing a great job.  

[Boccherini]

Thanks, gentlemen, for the interest and comments.

Paddy, I think the two are the same, except the grain on the hatch timber is finer with none of the dark marks. Though I'm not really sure (I'm no timber expert), as both are recycled from old cabinet carcases out of different kitchens. I saved them from the bin at the time as the timber looked like it might've been useful for modelling purposes.

 

Regards,

Grant.

[Boccherini]

I didn't like the raw colour for the blocks, so they were stained with a spirit based Feast Watson stain (Old Baltic).

The hooks were tied on with one turn of thread, knotted, then dilute pva glue applied to the knot, The taills were cut off with a scalpel after the glue dried.

This jig was again useful for tying the blocks, Dilute glue was applied and the tails cut off as before.

All the completed blocks ready for rigging.

The ring bolts and eye bolts have been set up prior to doing the gangway while there is easy access. I am only having cannons on the planked side, which is why the ring bolts have been left off on that side, the holes have been pre drilled. It will be easier to push them in later with the line attached. Tieing off lines under the gangway is bound to be an incredibly frustrating exercise.

 

Grant.