Fair American by GaryKap - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48

[GaryKap]

Hi Ken - Thanks for the picture.  That helped me make my decision - I'm going with the red like everyone else.  I still have some old Floquil paint in that color.  I was amazed how nice and smooth it went on compared with the thick acrilic paints from Model Expo.  However, I am thinking of deviating on the color of the window frames in the stern.  I think white would stand out more than the gold, and would certainly be in keeping with the period. 

 

<<Gary>>

[KenW]

Hey Gary - The problem is that we are building a model based on a model.  That is probably a unique situation.

I think you could go with either red or green and still probably be correct.  Also, I intended to go with more white on the stern, but decided I would go with the gold of the Rodger's model.  I still like the white better.  But ...

[GaryKap]

Hi Ken - Thanks for dropping by. I am in the process of planking the outer bulwarks, or topsides.  It's not turning out as well as I had hoped.  Part my fault and part Model Shipways.  When I did the gunport frames, they were all measured against the top of the bulkheads, allowing for the deck planking.  I wanted to insure that the cannon barrels would all be in good position.  Not sure what I did wrong, but some are slightly higher than others relative to the topside strakes.  That made it more complicated to trim the gunports.  The other problem is the wood material supplied with the kit.  The walnut was unacceptable because it was too brittle - even after soaking - and the basswood too soft.  I went with the basswood, but am now wishing I had opted for something better.  Like your holly maybe.  Now I understand why you guys told me the higher quality wood is worth it. I will likely not attempt the 1/32" seat around the gun ports that look so lovely on yours and Bob's models.  <<Gary>>

[GaryKap]

Progress Report - I have planked the outer bulwarks and framed the quarterdeck.  Also, I have added the cap rails and cut the holes for the quarter badges.  I will use the two remaining window frames in these.  As you can see from the pictures, I have done some painting too, but don't consider it to be "final".  At a later time I will masking tape and neatly paint the junction between the ochre topsides and the black strake.

 

<<Gary>>

[russ]

Gary:

The hull looks very good. Nice work.

 

Russ

[rafine]

Very nicely done Gary. It looks great.

 

Bob

[scott larkins]

Looking good. Going to do anything below the water line?

[GaryKap]

Russ, Bob, and Scott, thank you for your kind words.  Scott, I am still undecided about how to finish the lower hull.  It looks pretty good the way it is, and the color is not too far off the tallow color that I might paint it.  One option I am considering is to dilute the tallow colored paint and simply give the lower hull a "wash" that would allow most of the detail and plank color differences to show through.  But it seems most times I put a paint brush to a ship model, I wind up making things worse...  On the plus side, I have been very pleased with the paint brush set from ModelExpo.  The brushes allow me to put paint where I want it, and if my hand was steady enough, I could paint a waterline without using masking tape.  

 

I put together the hatch grates yesterday, and today I will build the coamings around them.  Then I will start planking the deck, and thinking about trenails.

 

<<Gary>> 

 

p.s. I just noticed that with this post, I have been promoted to "Midshipman".  Too bad that doesn't include a pay raise .

Edited March 5, 2014 by GaryKap

[dgbot]

Here is a photo from Manitowoc on a medal winner.  This is the color scheme.  As I said it makes up to be a pretty model.

David B

 

[KenW]

First, your pay has just doubled.

Next, are you going to paint the lower bulwark planking?  I am still undecided. 

Cheers.

[GaryKap]

David, thank you for sharing the photo of Fair American.  The clearer vision I have of the final product, the better I can do.  Your picture helps.

Ken, after seeing David's picture, I decided to go for it and paint the lower hull in Model Expo "tallow" color.  So far I have a coat of primer and one coat of tallow on the hull.  I will give it some time to cure, sand it, and then apply a final coat.  It looks pretty good but it was kinda sad to see all of that careful planking disappear under a coat of paint. 

 

Another question on treenails for the deck planking.  Posters commonly use the term "putty" so that's what I bought - a small jar of Minwax wood putty.  But after I got it home, I read the fine print on the back telling me that it does not harden and is not sandable.  Is that what I want?  I did some experimenting and discovered that after I drill a hole, I need to smooth it with an awl or similar instrument to get a nice round hole.  Also, it looks cleaner if I give the plank a coat of finish prior to drilling the hole and filling with putty.  Any tips that would help on this?

 

Also, I started working on the cannons.  Like you, I am using those that came in the kit.  I got the parts punched out of the lazer cut board with only one casualty.  I will post pictures in the near future.

 

<<Gary>>

[KenW]

I drilled the treenails with a #74 bit in a hand drill, not an electric one.  I then used "Plastic Wood".  The plastic wood hardened pretty quickly and I then sanded the holes.  I've never used 'putty'.

I didn't like the basswood cannon parts.  My last model came with walnut carriages and trucks; much better.

[dgbot]

By putty people wre talking about a filler plastic wood wood filler etc. When  simulate trenails because of the the scale I work in I would just drill the holes with a #80 and the scrpe and polish the deck.  Saw dust will fill the holes and once the deck is sealed you can barely see them.  I have seen maritime measles and never liked them much.

David B

[GaryKap]

Progress Report - Its been a while since my last post, and I have done some things.  I planked the decks, added the quarter panels, completed the "beak" and added the rudder and hatches.  I still have to do the quarterdeck companionway, quarterdeck rail and skylight...and everything else.  But that is my progress to date.  I can never seem to achieve the nice finished look that I see on some other posters on this site, so I guess this is my "unabashed" build.

Some photos are below.  <<Gary>>

[mspringer]

Gary,

 

I think it looks very good and you’ve done a great job on her!  As stated many times around here, don’t dwell so much on what could be better…but on the accomplishments so far.  

 

Now, let's get the next steps done with plenty more great pictures.          

 

Mark

[russ]

Gary:

Nice work on the deck and the head rails. It looks like it is coming along well.

 

Russ

[dgbot]

Keep up the nice work.

David B

[KenW]

I agree with the other posters: I think your model is looking really good.  ...

I've been thinking about this post and I think I didn't make myself clear. 

 

I was trying to say that:

On my build, I wasn't pleased with my workmanship on the planking of the lower hull.  Yet when I showed the hull to members of my family, they couldn't understand what I was talking about.  They thought it looked great.  Also, the feedback I got from members of this site was the same.  We all tend to be hardest on ourselves.  In my case, after working on some other things, now I don't think the hull looks that bad after all.   Sometimes we have to just relax and enjoy the process.  And, don't judge the product until you see it finished.

Edited April 17, 2014 by KenW

[GaryKap]

Mark, Russ, David, and Ken -

Thank you all for your words of encouragement.  You guys are right.  Sometimes all I see is the sum of my mistakes and not the accomplishments.  When I started this project, I was not even sure I could plank the hull.  And (hopefully) I keep improving as I move forward.  So I will just keep trying to do the best I can and proceed.  I am currently working on the quarterdeck door/hatch and will post some pictures when I am done.

 

Happy Easter to everyone.

<<Gary>>

[bigcreekdad]

Gary....I think you are doing a fine job. This ship will be my next build, although a ways off. I'll be 'consulting" your log when I do.

[GaryKap]

Bigcreekdad, thanks for dropping by.  And here is a progress report for everyone.  I thought it was time to mount the hull on its permanent display stand.  I found the lovely, dense piece of white oak at Black Dog Salvage in Roanoke, Virginia (seen on DIY TV as "salvage dawgs").  It was part of an old timber, and I like to think the tree that produced it was growing at the time that Fair American was sailing.  No stain - just a couple coats of tung oil and I am happy with the way that it looks.

 

Notice that there is a companionway at the quarterdeck now.  It is not glued in yet, but you get the idea.

 

I have started on the cannons.  I took those lovely 14 shiny brass cannon barrels and turned them gunmetal grey with a brass darkening solution.  I used the heavy brass wire supplied in the kit to make the trunnions.  I cut them to length, darkened them with the solution, and then glued them into the barrels with superglue.  (this sequence is important - if you glue them in before darkening them, the inevitable blob of glue will not darken and will stand out boldly)

 

I am using the technique demonstrated by Modeler12 in his video to make the eyebolts and rings for the gun carriage rigging. 

 

That's all for now.  <<Gary>>

Edited May 15, 2014 by GaryKap

[dgbot]

Great job Gary you are doing a fine job looking good.

David B

[rafine]

It's looking really good Gary. I like that companionway. It looks right.

 

Bob

[KenW]

Your build is looking great.  I like the companion way.  Good design and workmanship.

It looks like a paneled door.

Well done.

[testazyk]

Love your door!  And thanks for the hint about the guns.

[GaryKap]

I finally decided to rig the gun carriages with the breech line and outhaul tackle, after seeing how nice they looked in photos and buildlogs by KenW, Alistair, and Rafine. I opted for the 3/32” blocks and ordered them (bulk) from Model Expo.  I was pleasantly surprised by their quality – much better than blocks supplied in Model Shipyard kits from 40 years ago.  They are nicely drilled and grooved to accept the stropping.  I am finding them very easy to work with.  I am using the smaller diameter rigging material from old Model Shipway kits to strop the blocks, and I'm tying them to the eye rings instead of attempting to fasten them with metal hooks.  For tiny blocks and my skill level, this works fine for me.  I use a hemostat clamped into a fly tying vice to hold the block while I am stropping it.  I use diluted white glue to secure the knot.   Then I tie the blocks to the gun carriage and the bulkhead. And for once, I am actually following the directions.  With the barrel off the carriage, I rig the outhaul tackle and then secure the carriage to the deck with a pin.  Then I mount the barrel, rig the breech line, and install the quoin to adjust the barrel so it is centered in the gun port.  I have tested this approach with one cannon and it seems to work just fine.  <<Gary>>

[aliluke]

Looking really good Gary. The only real difference in my technique is that I rig the breeching rope with the cannon off the model and then insert the ring/eye bolt combo at the ends of the rope into pre-drilled holes in the bulwark when the cannon is installed on the model. I just find that is an easier way to get the knot or seizing to the ring completed and to control the length of the rope. But, hey, whatever works for you is the right way to do it!

[GaryKap]

Hi Alistair -

 

Thanks for dropping by.  Yes, I understand your approach.  My fear was that I would poke a hole through the bulkhead, making a mess of the operation.  I do use superglue to make the last half inch of the outhaul tackle line stiff so it goes through the hole in the block easily.  It also helps that the gun carriage can be moved about as needed to get the job done.  The brand new fine pointed tweezers that I bought from Model Expo are another big help. And as you say..there is more than one right way to do it. 

 

<<Gary>>

[KenW]

Just thought I'd add my two cents.  Your work is looking good and I like that you show the entire process in photos.

My variation is to do everything I can before the gun carriage (with barrel attached) is installed on the deck.  Once attached, all that remains is securing the breech line eyebolts to the bulwark; then fastening the two rigging ends to the bulwark and tightening the lines.  The lines are glued to the deck, trimmed and a pre-made coil is put over the end to look like a continuation of the rigging.  I like having everything done off the boat first.

But there is more than one way to do it and your way yields great results.

[GaryKap]

Hi Ken - Thanks for sharing your method for making those coils.  From your pictures, I thought the coil and outhaul rigging lines were one single piece.

 

On your buildlog, I see that you are evaluating the capstan.  You might check out the photos and drawings on the forum titled "Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings"  and the thread "capstan for merchant ship".  Also, take a look at what Rafine did on his buildlog, and also Chuck Passaro's practicum for SYREN Chapter Twelve Starting the Deck Fittings

(http://www.modelexpo-online.com/images/docs/MS2260/MS2260-Syren-Instructions-Chapter-12.pdf)

<<Gary>>