Fair American by GaryKap - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48

[rafine]

A really lovely looking build Gary. I don't think any of us ever does a build without thinking it could have been better. Don't get too caught up in that kind of thinking.

 

Bob

[GaryKap]

Thank you to Gerty, Ken, David, PineTar, Greg, Nils, and Bob for your kind words.  And thank you to GuntherMT, Walter, Russ, JesseLee, PineTar, and Bob for your "likes".  Your support and encouragement is always appreciated.

 

I think we are almost always our harshest critics (sometimes the Admiral is harsher... ).  I think I even remember Bob fretting about his ratlines recently.  People on other posts have wondered about building the same ship model twice - once to learn it and then again to improve on the effort.   What would I do differently "next time"?  I would order higher quality wood strips for the planking, and use scraps from that to "kitbash" and construct my own deck furniture.  I would not paint the hull, but leave it natural wood.  Where painting is required, I would apply several THIN coats, perhaps using Winsor & Newton acrylics like Chuck Passaro does, instead of using the thick goopy Model Expo stuff.  And I would buy and use much finer sandpaper to sand between coats.  In building, I would be more willing to re-do something that did not come out quite right the first time, instead of accepting it as-is.  When rigging, I would purchase better quality and less stiff "rope", and also smaller and better blocks.  I would include the shroud cleats that I omitted this time because they became so difficult.  I might even try tying all of the clove hitches in the ratlines . 

 

But I have kits for BENJAMIN W. LATHAM and EMMA C. BERRY waiting to be build, so I will try to apply some of these resolutions when building them.  And then maybe I will think about another FAIR AMERICAN...

[yvesvidal]

Gary,

 

Beautiful ship that you built. You should be proud of yourself as it is a little marvel.

I am looking forward to reading your next BLOG, especially if you build Emma C Berry that I started a while ago (not made much progress since then).

 

Congratulations for a beautiful and completed model.

 

Yves

[victorpapa]

Thank you to Gerty, Ken, David, PineTar, Greg, Nils, and Bob for your kind words.  And thank you to GuntherMT, Walter, Russ, JesseLee, PineTar, and Bob for your "likes".  Your support and encouragement is always appreciated.

 

I think we are almost always our harshest critics (sometimes the Admiral is harsher... ).  I think I even remember Bob fretting about his ratlines recently.  People on other posts have wondered about building the same ship model twice - once to learn it and then again to improve on the effort.   What would I do differently "next time"?  I would order higher quality wood strips for the planking, and use scraps from that to "kitbash" and construct my own deck furniture.  I would not paint the hull, but leave it natural wood.  Where painting is required, I would apply several THIN coats, perhaps using Winsor & Newton acrylics like Chuck Passaro does, instead of using the thick goopy Model Expo stuff.  And I would buy and use much finer sandpaper to sand between coats.  In building, I would be more willing to re-do something that did not come out quite right the first time, instead of accepting it as-is.  When rigging, I would purchase better quality and less stiff "rope", and also smaller and better blocks.  I would include the shroud cleats that I omitted this time because they became so difficult.  I might even try tying all of the clove hitches in the ratlines . 

 

But I have kits for BENJAMIN W. LATHAM and EMMA C. BERRY waiting to be build, so I will try to apply some of these resolutions when building them.  And then maybe I will think about another FAIR AMERICAN...

Gary,

Beautiful build, and thanks for the postings. My own FA effort was helped greatly by watching your and others progress. I'm at the standing rigging phase now and not all that excited about all those ratlines. Again thanks for your posts. 

Vince.

[GaryKap]

Thank you to yvesvidal and victorpapa for your kind remarks.  I too benefited from the build logs and advice of other posters on this site.  I know for sure that my ship model is MUCH better as a result.  And I learned about cap squares, boomkins, and many other things nautical in the process.  I recently purchased my own copy of Harland's book "Seamanship in the Age of Sail" ($45 used online) with its wealth of information to draw from.  I strongly  recommend this book to anyone modeling ships from 1600 - 1860.  You can view portions online at Google Books"

 

http://books.google.com/books?id=g7Jd_o6_s90C&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=true

 

Progress update:  I rigged the braces and the anchors.  The only big thing left is the rope coils on the belaying pins.  I was successful in doing this on my MS "Rattlesnake" so I know I can do it...but my fumbling fingers don't seem to be making it happen this time.  I'm thinking of putting this on hold for the time being and jumping into either "Emma C. Berry" or "Benjamin W. Latham".  The weather is turning warm here in Virginia and it would be a good time to start working on a hull.

 

<<Gary>>

[victorpapa]

Thank you to yvesvidal and victorpapa for your kind remarks.  I too benefited from the build logs and advice of other posters on this site.  I know for sure that my ship model is MUCH better as a result.  And I learned about cap squares, boomkins, and many other things nautical in the process.  I recently purchased my own copy of Harland's book "Seamanship in the Age of Sail" ($45 used online) with its wealth of information to draw from.  I strongly  recommend this book to anyone modeling ships from 1600 - 1860.  You can view portions online at Google Books"

 

http://books.google.com/books?id=g7Jd_o6_s90C&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=true

 

Progress update:  I rigged the braces and the anchors.  The only big thing left is the rope coils on the belaying pins.  I was successful in doing this on my MS "Rattlesnake" so I know I can do it...but my fumbling fingers don't seem to be making it happen this time.  I'm thinking of putting this on hold for the time being and jumping into either "Emma C. Berry" or "Benjamin W. Latham".  The weather is turning warm here in Virginia and it would be a good time to start working on a hull.

 

<<Gary>>

Thanks Gary,

I made up the rope coils on a long (4") rectangular block of scrap wood with wire studs spaced appropriately on the 'top' and 'side' edges, then used .008 thread wrapping around the studs 5-6 times and then tying a couple knots around the center of the loops. I waxed the wood before hand and treated the coils with thinned (acetone) Duco cement. Worked well after a few test configurations. Found the 'gathering knot' needed to be located toward one end of the coil to allow enough room to fit the coil over the cleats.

Also made up a serving device from two (1 inch) center drilled 1/4 inch dowels, drinking straw, sewing machine bobbin on a side mounted shaft wire eye and some tape that allowed me to wrap about 3/4 to 1 inch of line per minute with excellent control of the wrappings. Some time in the near future I will create a blog on MSW with photos of the rig.

Vince. 

[GaryKap]

Hi Vince -

Thank you for the suggestions.  I will have to try them out.  And I look forward to your blog with photos.

 

Truth be told, I am itching to start on my Benjamin W. Latham and do some work in wood.  Rigging makes me crazy after a while.  I just got my copy of Chapelle's "The American Fishing Schooners 1825-1935", which is giving me even more inspiration.

 

I have taken more photos of my "Fair American" as finished to date, and hope to post them soon.

 

<<Gary>>

[dgbot]

Latham is a different animal the the Morgan. Since I was scratch building it I did not use the kit.  I found Chapelle one of the most important sources in my library.  Before  started I read the book to get an idea of what I was getting into.  I possible you could contact Eric Ronnberg the acknowledged expert a question or two.  The hull itself is beautiful and could be used as a yacht if you wanted to go that route.  However there will be a lot of metalworking for the rigging.  As a result I was able to hone my skills by working in brass.  Since I am back in Chicago I can post a few photos of what I did so far so you can visualize the hull itself.  But I have a year of cleaning on it because when I moved in with my sister I was in no condition to think ahead nd put a dust cover over it.  I wonder if Simple Green will do a nice job of removing and cleaning without removing any paint.  I am suffering cotton mouth so the spit with qtip will not work to good.  I will probably hook up my air and blow off the excess first.  Will Simple Green do the job safely?

David B

[GaryKap]

Hello all -

Here are the pictures that I promised.  Remember..I'm not quite done yet .

<<Gary>>

[KenW]

As I've said before, your model is looking good.

I think you've just got some coils to go. 

Cheers.

[dgbot]

Fantastic job Gary.  I like the you finished the hull.  Nice and neat.  Your deck is crowded but orderly and everything has a place and is stowed properly.  I have seen many F.A.s using a slightly yellow cast on the hull and see you went a different route.  Once I got over the switch I like the look.  Bravo on a job well done.  A medal winner at the least.

David B

[JesseLee]

Beautiful!

[Mirabell61]

Gary,

 

an amazing model, neat, clean precise, very well done.

I love the color composition you have chosen on all. The dull brick red (not too dominant) goes excellently tother with the light natural wooden deck

 

Nils

[rafine]

Super work Gary. An effort to be very proud of.

 

Bob

[GaryKap]

Thank you to Ken, David, JesseLee, Mirabell61, and Bob for your kind words.  And thank you to the folks for the "likes" too They are appreciated. 

 

The paints used in the color scheme are mostly Model Expo stuff - MS4803-H Tallow for the hull, MS4830 Hull Spar Black and MS4829-Y Ochre.  The red is from an old bottle of Floquil Polly S 110135 SP Daylight Red.  I really like the quality of the old floquil paints, and wish they were still available.  They go on very thin but cover well - almost like a stain. 

 

And Ken, yes, I know I have to do the rope coils.  But I have started working on "Benjamin W. Latham" and it feels so GOOD to be working in wood once again.  Those coils might have to wait until Autumn .  I'm debating with myself whether to start a build log for Latham.

 

<<Gary>>

[bigcreekdad]

Gary

 

I am very impressed! The Fair American kit is "on the shelf", and will be my next kit build after I finish the Pickle. To even come close to your ship would be a big accomplishment for me. Your build log will be visited often when I start her.

 

John

[GaryKap]

John -

Thank you for your very kind remarks.  I hope you also visit the build logs of Rafine (Bob), Pete Jaquith and KenW. All three are excellent, and go way beyond just building the kit from the box.  I would also encourage you to create your own build log for your "Fair American".  You will have many people looking over your shoulder to help you out as you construct her.

 

<<Gary>>

[wq3296]

A quality build Gary, nice job. I have just started the standing rigging on my FA.

 

wq3296

[GaryKap]

Hi wq3296 - thanks for your kind words. 

 

When you do the standing rigging on your FAIR AMERICAN, I would strongly encourage you to include the shroud cleats.  The Syren Ship Model Company now offers them as laser cut wood with 40 per pack at a very reasonable price:

http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/laser-cut-ship-model-fittings.php

I wish I had done that with my build, especially when I was looking for places to belay the running rigging.  And of course, they would have been historically accurate.

 

<<Gary>>

[captain.jerry]

Hi Gary.  I guess I got here a little late.  I just joined this forum a few days ago but it was great to be able to read your log from the start. You have produced a beautiful model and I am sure to be referring to this log many times in the future.

 

Jerry

[GaryKap]

Hi Jerry -

Thanks for dropping by and for your kind words.  As I said to John (post #197), you should also consult the build logs of Rafine, Pete Jaquith, and KenW.  I pretty much constructed my model from the kit, but these guys went well beyond that. 

 

When I stopped working on her a few weeks ago, I could see all of the imperfections and flaws.  But now when I look and see her sitting there, I see a beautiful little ship that I created and I'm happy .  (Ah, yes, I still need to do those rope coils...)

 

<<Gary>>

[bigcreekdad]

Gary....great job!

 

Is that a fly tying vise in the pic of the deadeyes and copper wire. Might you be a fly tier?

[GaryKap]

Hi John -

Yup, that's a fly tying vise.  I used to be a fly tier when I lived in north Idaho and could fly fish for west slope cutthroat trout.  When I moved here to Virginia over 20 years ago, I discovered that the brook trout here are much smaller and more difficult to catch, so I lost interest.  But rigging a ship model requires many of the same skills and tools as fly tying.   I use the vise quite a bit, as well as the scissors and hemostats.  I still haven't figured out a way to incorporate those hackles into my rigging though .

 

<<Gary>>

[captain.jerry]

Hey Gary, aren't hackles a lot like baggywrinkle?  Plenty of opportunity for that on a ship.

[jdbradford]

This will be my first POB model. 

 

I am a bit nervous about the hull planking – especially the lower hull. But I have read and re-read the planking books and tutorials, and studied the build logs on this site. I am very grateful to have access to these. My “plan B” if I mess up the planking is to get a big bucket of plastic wood and some sandpaper...

 

I have checked the parts list, and the only thing that seems to be missing is the small dowel for the flag staff (part WP5100-06). I noticed other build logs reporting that the center keel did not line up with the plans. Mine pretty much did – but my kit has the center keel as one piece; not the two described by others. I extracted the center keel, keel, stem, and sternpost from Wood Sheet “A”. When I placed them together, I discovered that the keel is approximately ¼ inch too short. Notice in the photo the gap between the stem and the keel. I will most likely just cut a small piece of wood to fill this unless any of you has a better suggestion.  

 

I just started this model myself about 3 weeks ago.  The bottom piece of the keel is short and many folks have the same kit with the same issue.  I just put in a small piece from the billet, added a little filler and sanded it down smooth.  You will never notice it.  I too am a bit nervous about the hull planking.  The strip provided with the kit is not of an accurate width when it comes to the "black strake" and the wales.  I am just going to make do this time as I do not have the tools yet to make my own strip.

I am going to follow your build for ideas.

Jeff

[Jimz66]

Great work Gary... Well done. 

[jdbradford]

Gary, Bob,

 

I saw that, and as a navy man, I cannot for the life of me figure how the captain or any body else could have lived and worked in that space without getting killed or seriously injured in that space during high seas, especially at night.  I lean toward the idea that the deck must have been above most, if not all of those lines,  IMHO.  Someday, I may POF that set of plans to see if I could determine how they might have done it.  I'd have to build scale figures to make sure there was enough space for any activity below that top deck.  There must have been a way.  It seems that that model must have been done from a variety of drawings, because a 3' doors and all those ladders and cannons hunched around the wheel just seems a bit too crowded.  With there having been rumors of a variety of ships called by that name, I'd have to build it to see if it could be possible.   

 

I have been preparing a Fair a Hull kit to have on hand when I get around to starting the EC Berry, Bob.  I'm bashing the kit a bit.  

 

Walter Biles

I think this was built for the Dwarves or maybe Hobbits.  I can just see Thorin Oakenshield at the wheel.

 

Jeff