Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70

[pirozzi]

I have finished the fenders on both sides. Next up is to tackle the many metal pieces of ornamentation along both sides of the hull. Since the fenders are placed, starting with the pieces that butt up against the fenders makes sense. Then work out towards the bow and stern. One thing I have noticed right away is that the instructions are mismarked as to the numbers of the pieces. This is primarily so for the dupilcate pieces of port and starboard. Anyone building this model needs to be aware of this and carefully match the correct pieces. Each piece has a number stamped on it. Looking at the plan drawing sheet #2, you can clearly see the design patterns for all of the pieces on the starboard side. Use this sheet to select the pieces for placement and not the numbered diagram in the little instruction booklet. Each piece has to be cleaned, trimmed and sized to fit. Also parts have to be cut away where they overlay the gunport openings. All of the pieces need to be placed and temporarilly stuck to the hull so a line can be drawn on the bottom edge all along the hull. Then they are all removed and the space from this line to the top of the bulwarks needs to be painted black. Each of the pieces need to be painted before they are placed permanently. Trim on top and bottom are painted brown to match the hull, and the designs are painted gold. Then the pieces are placed permanently.

 

Once I get started here, I will post some photos.

 

Vince P.

Edited December 12, 2018 by pirozzi

[pirozzi]

Starting to place the metal ornaments on the port side. This piece has been shortened, trimmed and cut away for the gunports. I said that they needed to be stuck on the hull until I could mark the bottom line and then removed. I found this stuff called "Tacky Wax" in a gift shop in Sacramento. You just spread a little on and it sticks to anything. Afterwards just peel it off and wash it off if necessary. I works great as a temporary glue.

 

Vince P.

Edited January 31, 2016 by Vince P.

[pirozzi]

I have completed the port side with metal decorations. The pieces are of high quality, but still require quite a bit of cleaning up. They have to be bent, trimmed, and cut away for the gun ports as well. All in all it took quite a few hours to do this one side.

A note of caution, the actual pieces are larger than the plans show and will not sit exactly as the drawnings indicate. Their positions in relation to the wales and the bulworks tops is quite different. I adusted them as best I could. Also, once they are all placed, the seams are closed with a little filler which is rubbed on with a finger and then painted over.

 

Next up after completing the starboard side is to trim down the excess height of the bulwarks to the contour of the metal pieces and place a wood cap on top, which will be the base for the side railings later on.

 

Vince P.

Edited February 18, 2016 by Vince P.

[pirozzi]

More photos...

 

[GLakie]

The hull ornamentation turned out splendid Vince.  Nicely done! 

[Keith_W]

Very nice, Vince. I noticed that the cast decoration pieces were larger than the plans indicated when I lay sticky taped them to the side of the ship to test for fit. I suspect Euromodel left them longer to allow for trimming in case of building errors. I myself am quite looking forward to this stage of the build ... i'll get there eventually. In half a year perhaps

[pirozzi]

The bulwarks have been trimmed to match the height and contour of the metal trim edges. I also decided to cut the ends of the fenders to match the trim. It looks neater than bringing them up to the railings.

 

Vince P.

[pirozzi]

The wood cap has been added to the top of the bulwarks. This took quite a bit of bending on the ends and required letting the wood stock soak for a couple of days to get it soft enough. This cap will serve as the bottom for the side railings to be added later.

 

Vince P.

[pirozzi]

Very nice, Vince. I noticed that the cast decoration pieces were larger than the plans indicated when I lay sticky taped them to the side of the ship to test for fit. I suspect Euromodel left them longer to allow for trimming in case of building errors. I myself am quite looking forward to this stage of the build ... i'll get there eventually. In half a year perhaps

Hi Keith,

The pieces were not only longer, but considerably wider. This created a wider strip of metal running down the sides of the hull. As an example, the width on average on the plans is about 18.5mm, and is actually 20.5mm. You can double that where there are 2 layers, so the actual width of the ornamentation is 4mm wider than the plans.

Vince

[mtdoramike]

This is one fantastic piece of work on one of the most majestic ships in history.

 

 

mike

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

Bloody marvellous mate, she is getting on just beautifully!

Can't wait for more photos.

Havagooday

Greg

[marktiedens]

Hi Vince - excellent job on the galleries. A question - I know the ends of the main & middle gun decks need to be cut off at the last bulkhead,but did you end up also cutting off the end of the quarter deck before building the galleries?

 

Mark

[pirozzi]

Hi Vince - excellent job on the galleries. A question - I know the ends of the main & middle gun decks need to be cut off at the last bulkhead,but did you end up also cutting off the end of the quarter deck before building the galleries?

 

Mark

Hi Mark,

Sorry for the late reply. I did cut off the quarterdeck because it did not line up correctly. I added an extension at the correct height.

 

Vince P.

[pirozzi]

Next up was the forecastle bulkhead. This entire piece is not included in the kit and must be constructed entirely from scratch. The only part included is the ballestrade that runs across the upper half. It is a bulky metal casting which could be used if cleaned up considerably. I decided to make the ballestrade out of wood and use 6mm stantions for the face.

There is enough scrap lumber in the kit to make the whole bulkhead with the exeption of the stantions. I bought those.

I had previously made a false bulkhead to hold up the forward end of the forecastle. I then made the decorative bulkhead as a second layer. The frames for the ballestrade that curve around the roundhouses required a real intense tight curve. I had to do it in 2 layers of 1x2mm boxwood and boil them to make them real soft for the bend.

 

The plans only give a black and white view of the features, which is not that good. I used photos from Keith Julier, Pete, Yankovich, and our own Keith W. I came up with my own version using this information.

 

Vince P.

[pirozzi]

The finishing touches to the bulkhead and mounting on the ship.

 

Vince P.

[GLakie]

Nice!! It's by far better than the kit supplied one Vince! Nice work! 

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

G'day Vince

Again a bloooodymarvelous job! I love the way that you done the open doors on the forecastle bulkhead. They really look like there's an opening there with the black matt. Well done memattieee! We can all see all the hours that you have put in and "it's time well spent".

Havagooday

Greg

[pirozzi]

Working on the head rails. The metal pieces have to be bent severly in all directions to fit. Using a torch to heat and bend very slowly little by little is the only way. After each bend, the metal is dipped in water to cool and placed on the ship until it fits properly. It took about an hour just to bend one side of the top rail, which seems to require the most bending.

The photos show the top rail before and after the finished bending.

 

Vince P.

[mtaylor]

Beautiful work on the bulkhead, Vince.  The time put in was worth it.

[pirozzi]

Working on the bow area. Reinforcement plates are needed on the bow planking for the heavy head rails and hawse holes for the anchor ropes. I just used some of the second planking strips to make the inner plates.

 

Vince P.

[pirozzi]

The lower head rails need some severe shaping also and have to be shortened some to allow room for the hawse holes.

 

Vince P.

[pirozzi]

The upper and lower cheeks along with the decorative strip are added. At the very forward end of the decorative strip, a slot has to be cut into and through the stem for the forward gammoning ropes.

 

Vince P.

[pirozzi]

The heavy metal head rails need pins in order to hold them on to the hull.  Just gluing, even with CA won't do it. The photo is of one of the lower head rails with the pin installed. A hole will be drilled into the hull to insert the pin and hold the rail in place.

 

Vince P.

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

G'day Vince

Great log explaining all the difficulties that you have endured and most importantly solved. Well done.

Happymodelling

Greg

[Keith_W]

Looks great, Vince. I am not looking forward to this part of the build myself. 

[pirozzi]

The outer bow reinforcement plates with the hawse holes drilled. I used some brass portholes (5mm) to line the holes.

 

Vince P.

[pirozzi]

I painted the heavy metal figurehead panels that will be placed on both sides of the stem.

 

Vince P.

[pirozzi]

The metal figurehead panels are very heavy and will require some thick pins to keep them in place. I used 1.5mm brass rods.

Also, part of the lower head rails have been placed. The figurehead panels will have to go on before the rest of the lower head rail can be measured, as well as the rest of the head rails and timbers.

 

Vince P.

[Keith_W]

Very nice, Vince! I was debating whether to paint the figurehead gold or go with a colour scheme like you have. What made you decide to go with the colours? 

[pirozzi]

Very nice, Vince! I was debating whether to paint the figurehead gold or go with a colour scheme like you have. What made you decide to go with the colours? 

Hi Keith,

I debated this too. While the gold looks rich, I think the color scheme brings out the actual figures better. I looked at several models done both ways and think the colors look more authentic.

 

Vince

Edited April 25, 2016 by Vince P.