18th Century Longboat by Nirvana - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48

[DSiemens]

Yup. There's a reason they used stream boxes and not just water boxes. Great job Per. She's looking great!

[Nirvana]

Have lined up and glued the first planks at sheer line, this at port and starboard side.

Had to re-do it after seeing line errors.

Seeing each plank as a separate project.

I am gluing the plank in segments not the whole at once. One way for me to correct any errors along the way.

So far the two planks are linear with each other.

Bulkheads E through 7 (8) aren't glued at this time.

The keel is straight it's a visual error from the camera.

Edited July 27, 2014 by Nirvana

[Stuntflyer]

Really looking nice. . . I also glued the planks in segments, 2 to 3 bulkheads at a time.

 

Mike

Edited July 27, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[Nirvana]

Well, so far so good.

The first garboard plank is layed. I gave the connecting edge towards the keel a slight chamfer.

Got a neat and tucked connection.

[Nirvana]

While I had the port garboard plank drying in place I saw what I didn't like with the starboard side.

After some delicate knife work I had been able to remove the plank and made a new one and got much better fit.

[Stuntflyer]

That looks so much better!

[Nirvana]

Mike,

And you haven't seen how it's looking without the clamps

Thank you for the kind words.

[Nirvana]

The planks next to the garboard are being bent.

I used my cutting mat for this purpose, so I get somewhat similar bents.

They boxwood (all planks) are easy to work with after being soaked.

[Nirvana]

And the outcome of the garboard planks.

Sorry for the shaded areas.

Came out much better than I expected.

[Nirvana]

So round two of planks from the keel, it turned out that the material I had pre-bent wasn't long enough. I had to do a second batch.

These are now in place, first softened by using water then clamped down as before giving a little more bent.

Then dry-fitted in place with angular cut towards the keel, clamped and "hair-blower dried".

This picture is what I see right now while typing this. Don't know how exact it will be.

[Nirvana]

So, I released one clamp,

and this is the result:

Some trimming and it will probably be fine.

Still wondering how Chuck got the nice bends.....? Chuck, do you have any good answer?

After this I will measure the mid-bulkhead and start tapering remaining strakes.

[Chuck]

Persistence and practice....I dont use any clips.   I use CA which is fast setting to glue teh planking and make sure they are bent to fit without any force bending.  

 

Chuck

[dgbot]

Those are interesting clamps.  Where did you find them?

David B

[Nirvana]

David,

It's regular paperclips you can find in any store.

 

There are several different sizes of them.

This is one of the smaller.

 

Take three clips

 

Remove the "ears"

 

Slide the single "ear" into the next clip

 

Twist 90 degree

 

And done, you will have two clips from three

 

[Nirvana]

Persistence and practice....I dont use any clips.   I use CA which is fast setting to glue teh planking and make sure they are bent to fit without any force bending.  

 

Chuck

Chuck, thank you

 

I have been using wood glue Titebond II that's why the clips.

[Nirvana]

A long time has elapsed since I started the log, however today I am uploading the very latest pics, work has been done during the day.

The hull was fully planked earlier this week.

I had to do some mod's as I noticed some of the planks didn't attach fully to the bulkheads. All is CA glued.

The bulkhead support (coffee stirrer from a famous coffee chain) was cut into parts by the new Dremel Micro 8050

The machine itself is really nice to work with, it's re-chargeable Li-On batteries charges fast and it's easy to hold (low weight)

General Finishes Arm-R-Seal is the poly wipe on I am using.

I didn't even bother to let it dry the slow way, I used the hair dryer.

Some extra light sanding I and I should be ready for painting.

[Nirvana]

Cutting away the bulkhead notches was something I didn't look forward to.

But using the new "type" of razor blade saw the cut is almost like laser cut.

The blade itself is 1 1/2" long.

In this picture it look huge.

[dgbot]

I bought one of those saws.  They are great for making precise cuts in tight places.  Not really designed for big items.  The Preac of razor saws. I usually had trouble doing those precise cuts to my satisfaction.

David B

[Nirvana]

Using the new light-weight Dremel 8050 the reducing of the head was a breeze without touching the planks.

Now fine filing to get them to level for the cap rail.

[Nirvana]

Ribs and keel will be trimmed internally once the top heads are leveled with the plank.

Edited December 1, 2014 by Nirvana

[Nirvana]

The solids towards the stem I found to be tricky to get leveled.

First I used the Dremel (again!), then I used the fine tooth razor blade sized saw to do the rest.

 

10  minutes later I had it in my hand (ok, rather on my finger)

This without damaging the stem piece.

 

Btw, this is a funny little boat to build. It has it's challenges but at the same time, once beyond one point lot of things happens.

 

I am leveling all the ribs to the plank and thinking what to do with the inner hull..... colorwise

[Nirvana]

I haven't sanded down the frames nor the keel, meanwhile I did make a copy of the plans and cut out the cap rail as for a dummy.

This just to get an idea how it will look like. The rap rail in the plans are correct and I can use the cut-out as a template for making the rail.

[Nirvana]

Using the Dremel idea from other builders of reducing the frames I cautiously started the project.

Here I noticed the frames are very thick. There is a lot of wood to reduce.
Then I thought why not use the soft head from Dremel, I cut out a slightly larger piece from regular sandpaper ( I used 320grit ), having the soft head. It became easier to sand the curves of frames.

I wondered how much "meat" from the frames on the inside needed to be sanded out, here I used the caliper and set it to 3/32" which is according to the instructions and marked each frame. There is a lot to sand down.

Edited December 7, 2014 by Nirvana

[Nirvana]

I like this little boat. It's a fun and great project.

Thank you Chuck for creating this model!

 

[dgbot]

Looking good.  I have always thought of the Dremel as an essential item for this hobby.  You can do without it but then you will be spending to much of your time getting bored.

David B

[Nirvana]

While I have been sanding the frames, I took on the delicate thing..... cap rail.

I did three trial with the boxwood and each resulted with broken pieces. Due to the curves it was easier to do the cap rail with the bass wood.

When "cutting" the cap rail out from the sheet, use blade #22.

Cap rail done!! :D

[dgbot]

What shape is a #22 blade?

David B

[Nirvana]

David,

It is a curved shaped.......

[Nirvana]

Cap rails with "extra meat" according to instructions.

The basswood is easier to work with than boxwood.

As you see I have a lot of wood to reduce, but better to much and re-doing it.

The opening for the stem will be reduced to have a flush connection.

[dgbot]

Thank you for the photo.

David B