HMS Victory by Paul0367 - Constructo - Scale 1:94 - First wooden ship build

[Paul0367]

Mast support rings going on, really not sure about these yet and the build delay is in part pondering on the approach.

[fxitgood]

On real ship are the brass support rings thick line or brass. I used the brass support rings on other kit, did not like how they looked. I am also looking into it.

Thanks for inspiration Paul.

[AndyW]

To be honest looking awesome mate, think they look spot on

[mtdoramike]

Hey Paul, how are you going to work out the belaying pin situation. I found that even in the Anatomy of the Ship Vic, it only shows belaying pin stations the same as the kit instructions, which puts as many as three lines attached to some of the belaying pins. I don't have a problem with doubling up on a belaying pin if need be and it makes sense and looks proper. But that's about my limit.

 

mike 

[AndyW]

Don't have it with me at the moment, but there is a section about belaying in the Longbridge book.

[Paul0367]

I have not looked that far yet but there's always problems with these model ships, can we ever get something that goes smoothly without compromise or pain. Mike, seriously, how on earth have you built so many of them knowing what lies ahead. At least this time I can say I had no idea. Belay pin racks on the the real vessle carry more pins too, more than out lines can scale down to, I have not fixed mine to the decks at this time so I have a possible re think ahead of me.

[Paul0367]

Can we have three lines down and one do the wrapping around the pin, these pin racks on the real vessel generally look a mess

[AndyW]

I have been so tired but actually have the Longridge book with me.

 

He states that actually on the Victory it "becomes obvious that there are insufficient belaying points" he states that if you were to add all the spiritsails and stuns ails you would have over an extra hundred lines to accommodate."

 

He speculates that two or more lines must have been belayed at the same point, but again expresses how this must interfere with efficient operation.

 

"A certain number of lines, particularly the of the lighter gear of top gallants and royals, were belayed at the top"

 

The book includes three belaying plans that he used in his model, also a neat diagram for belaying in awkward positions.

 

 

Edit : fore rack 9 pins, just aft fore mast 17 pins.

 

Quarter deck mounted on bulwarks Port and Stbd, fore end rack 5 pins, then rack of 7 pins, same either side, stag horns for the main sheet, blocks for the middle stay sail halyards, kevels for the topsail halyards.

 

Poop deck rack of 7 pins, an assortment of vangs, cleats and blocks. Not forgetting predominantly on the poop deck but there are others and that is cleats on shrouds.

Edited August 9, 2015 by AndyW

[mtdoramike]

I agree with George, when he told me you are the Captain and when it came to belaying, it was mostly the Captains choice. Like I have posted before, I'm a realist and not a purist, I take the easiest path of resistance, which means exstrapolattion. Which works out great for most ship models that don't have such an honorable history like the Victory and the Constitution. I try my best to do it the right way when possible, but I'm also not above cutting a few corners or fudging or like I prefer to call it artistic license hahahahahahaha. Now, when it comes to most ship models no problem, but when there is shining examples like the Vic or Connie, artistic license can come back and bite you when someone comes up and says "well that is not the way it's done on the real ship"

 

But I think I will add a few more belaying points especially to the rear of the ship to accomodate more belaying points and to minimize having to load up 3 lines to a pin.

 

 

mike

[fxitgood]

Paul Sir, Do you have a web site that you use for buying wood strips and other parts. Thank You, Very respectfully, Rich

[HIPEXEC]

I just caught up with your build and it is quite an accomplishment! You work like a master builder. 

[Paul0367]

Thank you for the compliments, much appreciated, I am moving very slowly at the moment as my get up and go has well, got up and gone.

Ok buying supplies, you need a US supplier to save you the shipping cost, I use Cornwall model boats but that said the wood is never as good as the kits supplied wood. I am yet to find wood the same quality.

[Paul0367]

I have moved to what I call stage 2 of the mast process. Again I am following images of the real ship and noticed the base of the mast starts quite thick, well lets say thicker than the dowel supplied, but only for a shot distance then it becomes, well what you expect based on the holes on the blocks ( thinner ). Just to add some more pain it's hexagonal too. As have my finger tips now become with every passing of the plane blade. To make it thicker I used 10 mm dowl and yep planed it and my fingers until it was an acceptable diameter, then drilled her and used the mast top as a plug, that's after turning it to 4mm with a lip. To finish I also sanded the top of the larger section to give it the shanferred effect shown to match my literature. The upper part disappearing out of the picture is still to be narrowed to scale.

[shihawk]

Glad to see your post as i have been wondering about the base of the second stage mast ,your pics solve my problem ,thanks . Great work .!!!!

[Kevin]

I love the mast rings, very nice

[AndyW]

Another stunning addition.

[mrangus]

Your attention to detail is stunning.... I have enjoyed following this build and your talents.

[Paul0367]

Mast stage 2, this piece took some work, starting from large Hex base to small hex to round, tapering to a hex tapering out to square. This is hats off time to the original design / builders. The ship is a work of art, far to good to send to war

Thanks for the compliments guys.

[Paul0367]

I have moved up to what I call main mast stage 3 or what you guys would call the main top gallant.

[Paul0367]

Moved to the foremast, yet to add the brass rings but making up each tier at the moment and dry building with the aid of my trusty blue tack. Anyone whom has been here before will know how complex a mast is, until now I didn't but always looked forward to this particular part of the build. They make the ship, a ship of beauty to me, and wow did they do it very well..

[Paul0367]

Constructo HMS Victory.

[Submarineman]

Paul, you are a true inspiration. I am about to tackle this Constructo Victory project - have been reading and re-reading the plans etc have made a rope walk machine and kitted out my shed, preparation, preparation.

In addition to the supplied kit what additional items would you suggest that I purchase prior to start - I.e. Materials, fittings etc (not tools)?

[Paul0367]

Thank you for the comments glad to help, fitting,,, well first scrap the green, yes green rigging twine that Constructo insist on the supply with this kit, it will look wrong. Treat yourself to black from other kit manufacturers, do not touch Constructo, they will only ship you more green, also you will need two more main anchors, there is more the ship carries but the main are most visable. Get some spare ayous 2 x 2, ok your replacement will never be as beautiful as the kit suppplied but it will do the job, this is for the bow especially if your going natuaral wood colour as there is a lot of waste here trying to acheive the correct curvature and prevent burning the wood ( see box art) yep slight burn. Check my site for the trials and tribulations, i've met quite a few and tried to prevent other struggling through, especially the canon hole positions on the top deck which has to be correct otherwise you may hit the ribs that are on view from behind,, you will hit the lower ribs, the plans ensure this, ( a pain yes but just dremil them out) Any issues, just email me seriously its not a problem, I like to help. One bit of advise I was given early on and I will pass on,, its not a race, she will take a minimum of two years, unless your retired and not hassled for DIY, You will need literature and my bible is HMS Victory her construction career and restoration its brilliant. AMAZON. Oh! when things get on top of you, STOP! put the kettle on and take 5, things look so much better after a break.

Oh and more importantly, just enjoy it.

Edited August 31, 2015 by Paul0367

[AndyW]

Paul have you moved away from the two rigging diameters supplied?

 

For what it's worth

 

Anchor Hawse 2mm

 

Main mast Stay 1.6mm

 

Main mast back stay 1.3 mm

 

Rough calculations and figures from else where show at least 100mtrs of 1mm.

Edited September 1, 2015 by AndyW

[Paul0367]

I really haven't studied the lines width, but I have shelved the green stuff, i've now got caldercraft lines but im not at home to say what thickness they are. I generally study the area i'm on when I get to it, the head would forget otherwise.

[AndyW]

Ah I've had the time to study (nearly done on the spreadsheet for lines blocks an collars), Caldercraft rigging is slightly over sized and heavy looking (I have some that I am using on another model so not wasted). Best I have seen tbo unless you are using a ropewalk are the Amati rigging threads, that's what I am changing out for.

 

The mainstay is the largest rope on the ship (excluding the anchor ropes), you need a contrast between the mainstay and the main back stay, which you then need a contrast between the back stay and the shrouds, have seen a Helier 1:100 scale not Dafi's using these sizes, there isn't much of a difference to ours, re rigging sizing, but the contrast they give is well worth the effort.

[Paul0367]

I got caldercraft but to be honest i never really considered scale, doh! I will look into your suggested kit, hey would you have there codes for the lines, just a thought

[AndyW]

For the Amati? Wasn't a kit under the impression that a lot of kits supply "that will be alright" to most wouldn't give it a thought but you are being so carefull in making a beautiful model thought I'd give you a heads up, especially that fore end being prominent, but should have the codes (Cornwall Model) of what I have obtained so far, will put it in a PM mate.

[Submarineman]

Thank you for the comments glad to help, fitting,,, well first scrap the green, yes green rigging twine that Constructo insist on the supply with this kit, it will look wrong. Treat yourself to black from other kit manufacturers, do not touch Constructo, they will only ship you more green, also you will need two more main anchors, there is more the ship carries but the main are most visable. Get some spare ayous 2 x 2, ok your replacement will never be as beautiful as the kit suppplied but it will do the job, this is for the bow especially if your going natuaral wood colour as there is a lot of waste here trying to acheive the correct curvature and prevent burning the wood ( see box art) yep slight burn. Check my site for the trials and tribulations, i've met quite a few and tried to prevent other struggling through, especially the canon hole positions on the top deck which has to be correct otherwise you may hit the ribs that are on view from behind,, you will hit the lower ribs, the plans ensure this, ( a pain yes but just dremil them out) Any issues, just email me seriously its not a problem, I like to help. One bit of advise I was given early on and I will pass on,, its not a race, she will take a minimum of two years, unless your retired and not hassled for DIY, You will need literature and my bible is HMS Victory her construction career and restoration its brilliant. AMAZON. Oh! when things get on top of you, STOP! put the kettle on and take 5, things look so much better after a break.

Oh and more importantly, just enjoy it.

 

 

 

Thanks for all the info, it is very much appreciated.

[keelhauled]

These appear to be brought out when at full sail and stowed by the side in the brackets attached to deadeye rails, there called lower studding sail booms, the fore mast does the same but there smaller and are fixed forward of the dead eye rail and not stowed outside the ship. Well from all my books they point at this but im no expert.

 

Dave, I cheated and bought the barrels, to cheap to consider turning my own. Shh I made them.

Paul,

What book are you using for the studding sails?

Thanks

marc