GUNBOAT PHILADELPHIA by Steve.Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways

[bebopsteve]

_{So after a long time measuring, and taking probably way to much time, I glued the keel. Very pleased.}

[Chuck Seiler]

You can never take TOOOOO much time, if you get it right.  Better that than rushing it and getting it wrong.

 

I plan on centering the keel much like I centered the "underside center strip".  Measure width of keel, divide by 2, set my compass at that distance and using the center groove, run a line up one side of the center groove.  That SHOULD be the limit line for the keel and can be used to ensure the keel is straight,  As a check, I will turn the compas around and run an identical line on the other side of the center groove.  The keel should fit snugly betwixt the two.

[bebopsteve]

That's essentially what I did. I used a T-square also. Everything lined up great.

[Chuck Seiler]

That's important.  If the keel is crooked, everything sucks wind.

[Kurt Johnson]

Hi, I didn't realize that SIS was still published. What issues are Kurt's articles in, so I can order them?

[Kurt Johnson]

Found out which and ordered them. I'm very interested in this build!!!

[Chuck Seiler]

Kurt,

    The last two issues were parts 1 and 2.  I don't know how many more issues the build will cover.  At least 2, I suspect.

[bebopsteve]

Working on the bulkheads. Just following instructions and leaving room to adjust for eventual planking. I an making sure everything is straight..It seems like it took an hour to finally make sure.. but so far everything has fit pretty good.. Laser cut. i like it! If anyone has suggestions, Please! 

[Chuck Seiler]

Steve,

    There is nothing wrong with taking your time and making sure everything is correct.  It will save alot of time and grief down the road.  Looking good.

[bebopsteve]

Lol... The hard part is not knocking something off while maneuvering this beast around. 

[Chuck Seiler]

Knocking something off....or knocking over a lamp...or punching a hole in the wall.......

[bebopsteve]

Roger That!

[kurtvd19]

The series is going to go to 6 parts.  Just started the rigging in Part 5 - due to be submitted very soon.

 

I sort of worked myself into the proverbial corner - the pieces that hold the gun trunnions onto the carriages are a thin soft white metal and I didn't have much confidence in them holding the guns in place with just the kit designed pin and hoop so I glued them in place with C/A.  And then I realized that it is best to remove the gun barrels after installing and rigging the guns while the rest of the build goes on (and mentioned in the instructions).  So I resorted to getting the guns in place with their rigging attached and then pulling the eyebolts attaching the rigging to the carriage and setting the guns aside until work that would interfere was done.  I would still use the C/A but not until the barrels were put back onto the guns.

 

I always urge modelers to read the instructions all the way through before starting to build - I did this - I just need to remember what I read!

 

Kurt

[Chuck Seiler]

    I agree with Kurt that one should read the instructions all the way through before starting.  It helps from being surprised later on by some step you should have prepared for early on.  Being a guy, however (i.e. adverse to maps, instructions and the like, until after all else has failed) I find that even though I read the instructions, they don't make much of an impact because I am not familiar with the whys-and-wherefores of later stages of the build.  What I find helpful is (1) the initial read thru,and (2) reading ahead a couple steps each time I finish a phase.  That way I find the read ahead makes more sense.

 

    I did just the opposite of Kurt. (It's not my fault....I didn't have instructions).  On my scratch Philly, I waited until much later to rig and install the guns.  I didn't want them to get in the way.  It ended up being difficult.  This time I will do as Kurt indicates...Rig and install the carriages, install guns later.

 

    I also plan on drilling two holes in the pieces that hold down the trunnions and pinning them in place as well as gluing.  For metal on wood or metal on metal (that cannot be silver brazed)  I have been using "Loc-tite All Purpose 'Go-2' Glue".

[bebopsteve]

I have read and re-read the instructions.. Even made an extra copy to keep on nightstand! You guys are making this fun! I subscribed to Ships In Scale, and need to get the back issues on the Philly..  

[bebopsteve]

Frames on. Bottom planked. Am I done yet? Just kidding. Now the real fun begins! 

[Chuck Seiler]

    A multi-legged mini table!!!!!

 

    Looks good.  Time for fairing and planking.

[bebopsteve]

IT'S ALIVE!!!! 

Re-stained the bottom planking. Should I add nails?

[bebopsteve]

Not nails, holes?

[bebopsteve]

Thanks Bart! 

[Chuck Seiler]

Nails! Uhhhg!!!! I think I am going to use the underside to experiment with my nails. As previously discussed, there are ALOT of nails. It could become overwhelming fast if not careful. (Overwhelming both in terms of the work required as well as the visual effect.) I have seen alot of models that look like an outbrak of measles because the trunnels are too obvious.

I used subdued pencil point dots on my scratch Philly, but that was 1/2 the scale of this one. I don't know if that will be TOO subdued or not. I was hoping to blow it off for awhile.

What do you plan on using for 'nails'?

...and for those out ther not paying attention, they are actual iron nails, not trunnels.

Edited September 5, 2014 by Chuck Seiler

[kurtvd19]

Chuck:

To add a point of discussion and/or research - were the nails square cut or round?  I suspect square cut.  How to show a square - rectangular head - or better how do you drill the square hole for the nail?

Kurt

[Chuck Seiler]

I believe it was/is square, but at that scale, does it matter? Particularly if the nails are subdued enough?

 

What are your recommendos?

[russ]

Also, would they have countersunk the nails and capped it with a wood plug? The plugs would be round if they used them.

 

Russ

[Chuck Seiler]

Russ,

Not in this case. They just whacked the nails into place and when on to the next. They weren't all that concerned with corrosion since they didn't expect the ships/gunboats to be around very long. Their goal was to get as many hulls into the water as they could. Counter sinking and plugging the nails took too long. As it was, IIRC they got the full compliment of gunboats completed and got all but one row galley completed in time. (It was completed but not fitted out in time for the battle.)


As you see, the nails are relatively visible.

Edited September 5, 2014 by Chuck Seiler

[bebopsteve]

I think I will hold off too.... Way to much to worry about with all the other building biz...

[Chuck Seiler]

Looking at " BRATTEN"* I see that, in addition to the nails in the hull itself, they recovered 18 assorted iron nails/spikes. All square. None over 1/2 width.

 

I agree with Steve. I will tinker with this as I progress, but more pressing things await.

 

* "The Gondola PHILADELPHIA & the Battle of Lake Champlain" by John R. Bratten

[bebopsteve]

Good Call Chuck!

[Chuck Seiler]

Continuing on this thread, while we are here, by my calculation, 1/2 inch is .02". I don't have my caliper available, but my recollection of an .020 saw blade, this is about the size of a semi dull pencil point.

 

What does the peanut gallery say?

 

Continuing.

[dgbot]

Go with a pencil if you are simulating the nails.  Why add more headaches.

David B