Zip Ties - Yes or No for seizings

[homer]

Quick question, I have been making zip ties to be used as seizings. I made the attached (if I can attach the pics) Jig to set the size and then cut the zips. I use a bit of ca on the ends of the shrouds to be able to pass the line through the zips. It's a clean look but I'm wondering how many of the members do this? I learned it from Hubert (recently passed). But would appreciate any input from members. I look forward to reading your responses. Ron / AKA Homer

[mtaylor]

Can you show what the seizings look like?  I and I'm sure others aren't familiar with this method.

[the learner]

Looks like you are cutting a bit of line! perhaps some drawings or more pictures! of what you are telling us. this sounds interesting.

[edmay]

Hubert from "ship model for dummies" may he RIP was a well known master builder,his site was and is invaluable ,Edwin

[homer]

Hi Mtaylor and the learner, I will try to post a pic here if I can do it correctly!!! 

 

Edmay, yes Hubert from ship models for dummies! He was such a nice person and his family has been gracious enough to keep his web site going. I reference it often. 

 

 

 

[Captain Slog]

I am thinking it is heat shrink tubing rather than zip ties.

 

Cheers

Slog

[homer]

Hi Captain, It does kind of look like shrink tubing! I'll try to take some close up pics of the zips / seizings by them self. You can see them on the Greyhound but have to zoom in. Ron

[homer]

Here are a couple of pics of the Zip / Seizing process. If interested let me know and I can show you how I make the Zips. 

 

 

[homer]

The last pic "ready for Deadeye" is a close up and only a quick sample. The seizing should be about half as long or cut in half to make two seizings. Ron

[Mahuna]

I also learned about Zip Seizings from Hubert's web site, and coincidentally will be giving a demo/workshop tomorrow for our newly formed Ship Modeler's club in the Phoenix area.  Hubert had a lot of great ideas and put in the time to document them, including lots of videos.  His site was a great help to me when I started ship modeling a couple of years ago.

 

Frank

[homer]

The same for me Frank. I can't even say how sad I was when I heard about his passing. 

[vossy]

g'day homer, i also use Hubert's method and agree his site is invaluable. so sad he passed so suddenly. the seizings look great and are easy to produce in any diameter and length. a truly ingenious method to turn what can be a nightmare practice into a simple one. like Hubert used to i tend to make many of these whilst waiting for stuff to dry, soak, etc. for all who don't know of his site it is a brilliant tool for any model maker of any ability.

 

cheers chris

[Thanasis]

Hi all.

The issue of false / zip seizing has been set before here… (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1255-question-on-false-seizing-zip-seizing/)

So Homer, I would like to know weather you have come to an effective way, where the thread doesn't stick on, from whatever kind of material you use as a rod, to make loops around.

Many thanks

Edited November 29, 2014 by Thanasis

[homer]

Hi Thanasis, that is a very good question and it did take a little bit of practice. I use the smooth side of old drill bits. I either permanently install them in a wood jig or hold them in a vise. I then cut a hack saw blade into 1 1/2 inch length. In the center of that I drill a hold the exact same diameter. Now, I take rigging wax and rub it on the drill bit and the flat sides of the hack saw piece. I then place the hack saw blade piece onto the bit and wind the seizing thread keeping each loop close until I get close to the end of the bit. Oh, I put small clips on the thread to weight it down. I then take ca (super glue) and wet the thread making sure it soaks in all around. I then somewhat quickly remove the clips, cut off the extra length of thread and then hold both ends of the hack saw blade and begin sliding it off as it catches the loops of thread. As I pull the head off with this blade piece it tightens the loops. Once off I knock it off the blade and let it dry for at least half hour. I then cut the seizing pieces in a jig I made that I can adjust for the seizing lengths. Now, when installed, I still pull up the dead eye line and attach as would normally do. I'll try and post a pic of the actually thread winding process and pulling off. All of this is on Hubert's web site that I joined a few years ago. I'll have to look back on this site to see what has been written about it before. Ron 

[homer]

Here are some pics that might help describe the process! You need to practice to get the timing down. Wait too long it is too hard to pull off bit. Don't wait long enough or pull off inconsistently .. might fall apart! Practice with the types of rigging line you use and then you're set!! Good luck. Ron 

 

 

[Thanasis]

Many thanks for your reply as well for the photos of the procedure Ron.

I have already made my experiments and I have also come to similar to your conclusions. 

However I would like to add that this method of "false seizing", contains also a rate of 15-20 percent of  "fault seizing".

Thanks

Edited December 1, 2014 by Thanasis

[Paul0367]

I have been looking to find out how this is done as there is nothing in the kit to show / explain the process, thank you all for sharing this with us newbies