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About popeye2sea

  • Birthday 11/09/1961

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  1. popeye2sea

    Merchant Pinrail Diagrams

    Harold Underhill has a book called Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier. He describes the standard and usual method of rigging for civilian ships. Also included is a fold out diagram of the belaying locations with a comprehensive and cross referenced index. I think it is a great resource. Regards,
  2. popeye2sea

    question on Bentinck shroud

    The photos posted above by Captain Poison show the bentinck shrouds aboard USS Constitution. The legs of the shroud consist of a length of line with an eye at both ends. The legs are wormed, parcelled, and served their entire length. The shroud legs are doubled and passed through a thimble spliced into the end of the bentinck shroud. The ends of the legs are seized to the lower shrouds at the futtock stave. If you look closely at the pic you will see that the innermost pair of legs go the middle shroud and are seized one above the other. The remaining pairs are seized to each successive shroud moving out from the center. The bentinck shroud itself leads down to the opposite waterway where it has a heart turned in. It sets up with a laniard rove through the two hearts. The lower heart is shackled to an eyebolt in the waterway. The number of legs for your bentinck shrouds usually equals the number of futtock shrouds and should splice to the same lower shrouds as the futtock shrouds. Regards,
  3. I've been trying to get a response from the USS Constitution Museum's website and Public Historian (or anyone) about the gun port netting. All I get is silence. Was it added as a modern safety devise like the sprinkler systems, lighting, etc. or is it part of the ship's fittings? In other words, do I make it part of my model or not?





    1. popeye2sea


      Great question.  My sense is that it is a modern safety feature, but I do not know how far back they started to use them.


      Depending on the time period you are modeling they may be included or not.




  4. popeye2sea

    Top Rope Pendents

    In Steel's Art of Rigging he desribes the method of hoisting up and rigging the top mast. According to this method the top mast is hoisted up using a hawser rigged in the old manner (pre 1640 or so) as has been described in posts above. The hawser was used to hoist the top mast high enough to pass through the lower mast cap where at the topmast cross tress and head rigging were fitted over the top mast head. The top mast was then held in place by tackles from the lower mast head while the hawser is un-rove. The top rope pendant is then rove in the method described by Lees (1640 on). So, everyone is correct here. The top rope, after 1640, as described by Lees was never intended to allow the top mast to be lowered to or hoisted from the deck. That job was accomplished by a separate line. Which also sort of explains the differences in whether the top rope was un-reeved or left rigged during different time periods. Regards,
  5. popeye2sea

    Top Rope Pendents

    I agree with with Frank. The top rope may have been called a pendant, but it was just one length of rope. It came down to the deck and was redirected to a horizontal direction using (usually) the fourth sheeve of the knight and then probably taken to a capstan. Regards,
  6. popeye2sea

    Studding sail guy

    The studding sail guy is a rope used to help support and steady the studding sail boom. When the boom is swung out into position for spreading the foot of the lower studding sail the guy ropes run from near the outer end of the boom to points on the hull to steady it in position. You could simply fit an eyebolt into the hull to take the end of the guy. Or you could lead it onto the channel to belay there. Regards
  7. What is the height of the wall at those points? 10.6, 10.7 ft.? Regards,
  8. popeye2sea

    Standing rigging sizes

    Here is what I used, based upon R.C. Anderson The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Sprtisail Topmast 1600 - 1720: The rigging sizes all are figured relative to the main stay which has a circumference equal to half the maximum diameter of the main mast, so 42.76 inches mast diameter x 1/100 scale gives 0.43 in. scale mast diameter .043 / 2 gives a main stay circumference of 0.215 inches 0.215 / 3.14 gives a main stay diameter of 0.068 inches. The closest line I had available is 0.08 inches (which may be a bit too large. 0.06 may be a better choice) The following rules of thumb then apply (in order of size): Fore stay = 4/5 of the main stay Main shrouds and Main topmast stay = 1/2 Fore Shrouds, Fore topmast stay, Mizzen stay = 2/5 Main topmast and Mizzen shrouds = 1/4 Fore topmast shrouds, Mizzen Topmast stay and the two Topgallant stays 1/5 Shrouds for the last 3 = 1/6 These following rules apply to the rest of the rigging but they are relative to their respective lines (this should become clear in the table below): Mast tackle pendants = shrouds (i.e Main mast tackle pendants = the Main mast shroud diameter) Shroud deadeye laniards = 1/2 the shroud Stay collars = 3/4 of the stay Tackle runners = 2/3 of their pendant Tackle falls = 1/2 of their runner or pendant Backstays = Shrouds Tyes = Shrouds Halyards = 2/3 of the Tye Lifts = 3/8 of the shroud Lift pendants = 1/2 shroud Braces = 3/4 of the Brace pendant Brace Pendant = 1/2 shroud Deadeyes = 1/2 the diameter of the mast Tacks = shroud Sheet = 3/4 shroud Clews = 1/2 of the sheet Bowlines = 1/2 shroud Leech lines = 1/3 shroud Bunt lines = 1/3 shroud Block length should be about 12 times the diameter of the rope and their sheeves should be about 9x the diameter of the rope Hope that helps some. Regards,
  9. popeye2sea

    Skull decorations on ships: real or fake

    That is an interesting article. It does state that the common images of the flags as shown are probably from a more modern source , however it later states that some of them depict images as described in period sources. Regards,
  10. popeye2sea

    Skull decorations on ships: real or fake

    You have to remember the purpose of a pirate ship. It was to make money by looting or taking other vessels. It was not sensible to extensively damage or sink the other vessel unless they absolutely did not need it. To that end most pirates actively cultivated a fierce persona and reputation to cow their prey into submission without having to fire a shot. Gunpowder and shot was also a large expense item. To that end many of them adopted their own flags so that they would be recognized and feared on first sighting. The 'golden age' of piracy was in the early 1700's. Some notable pirates of the time flew versions of the "Jolly Roger" The first skull and crossbones motif appeared in 1700 when the French pirate Emanuel Wynne hoisted a black flag with a skull and crossbones over an hourglass to show his prey that time was running out. Thomas Tew flew a black flag with an arm holding a sword. Jack Rackam had a skull and crossed swords. Bartholomew Roberts' showed a pirate and a skeleton holding a spear supporting an cup between them, drinking a toast to death. Another flag of his showed himself standing on two skulls. One labeled ABH (A Barbadian's Head) and the other AMH (A Martinican's Head). Blackbeard, Edward Teach flew a black flag with a skeleton holding a a glass in one hand and a spear in the other which was aimed at a bleeding red heart. Edward Low flew a black flag with a red skeleton. Regards,
  11. I have a question about the recent overhaul the USS Constitution just completed. I was poking around various build logs and sites looking for detail images that I could use in constructing my model of the Conny.  On JerseyCity Frankie's log U.S.S. Constitution Turn Around Cruise 6/8/18, he had an image of the bow looking forward where the bowsprit starts. The structure atop of the railing which looks like a wave breaker (my term) has been removed. JerseyCity Franklie only provided the one image which leaves a lot detail to be desired.


    I've included a before image and JerseyCity Franklie's "after" image.


    I am curious as to why the change was made and if you could provide any more images. I would like to incorporate this latest modification into my model.


    2018-Jun-08 Turn Around Cruise.jpg

    1. popeye2sea


      The origins of the topgallant rail and bulwarks on the Constituion are some time around the 1927 refit, I believe.  At that time the Navy decided that the bulwarks all around the ship should be raised and to have bulwarks at the waist installed to the same height.  You do not see them, obviously, in this photo but they were done completely around the ship.


      I forget which year it was, but during the refit before this last one the decision was made to bring the ship more in line with her 1812 configuration.  To that end, the bulwarks in the waist and the topgallant rails were again removed, as you see in your second photo.  Also at this time the proper camber was built into the deck, the thick planks (or king planks) were put into the deck, and the diagonal riders were installed in the orlop.




    2. JSGerson


      I knew the bulwarks at the waist were removed to conform more like 1812 but did not know about the top gallant rail. All the images I've seen except the second one, show the rail. Any chance getting more images without the rail? 


      I assume that the lines that use to go through the holes at the top of the rail terminated at the belay pins below it; so that now they go directly to the belay pins. Is that correct?


      Thanks for your help.


  12. popeye2sea

    Avoiding slack in standing rigging

    That is how it was done on the actual ships. Regards,
  13. The two halves of the hull went together with some difficulty. There was some warpage of the hull to contend with . The mating surfaces are not keyed so getting everything to line up was troublesome. After the glue dried the transom piece and bowsprit step were glued in place. The same problems that I had with the hull halves were repeated with the transom. No tabs to position the mating surfaces. The hull seams were then filled and sanded in preparation for painting. Regards,
  14. Hello all, I have started a second build. The Amerigo Vespucci produced by Heller. This build is not intended to be nearly as involved or intensive as my Soleil Royal build. It will be essentially out of the box without any modifications. I decided to build this in order to present it as a Christmas gift this year to my Italian father in law. He enjoys building and displaying models. His are more in the 'folk art' style (not sure if that is the right term); nothing to scale, hand carved parts, and not rigged with any particular accuracy. He has given my wife and I several over the past years, so I thought I would reciprocate with one of my own. That gives me about 5 months to complete this build. The kit is the usual Heller plastic variety. Unboxing and examining the parts there are the two hull halves plus two bags of parts on sprues. One bag is molded in tan plastic the other in white plastic. In addition there is one sprue of clear molded plastic parts. There are no supplied blocks or chain, and there is one spool of rigging thread. Also included is a set of vacu-formed sails and a small sheet of decals for the flags. Also on this sheet is a decal that represents the railing and netting that wraps around the stern gallery. I am not sure that I quite like that idea. Depending on how the build progresses time-wise I may just have to replace that with something else. Considering that the ship would actually be rigged with chain, wire rope and natural rope, this is the only real modification to the kit I will be making. I ordered chain from The Dockyard Shipmodel Co. in 50, 45 and 25 links per inch. The paints for this build are from Vallejo. I will be making up the wire rope myself. The rigging thread will be from Syren Ship Models. Actual building will commence tomorrow. Until then, Arriverderci

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