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Gaetan Bordeleau

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    Quebec, Canada

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  1. Amazing optivisor light

    As I explained you yesterday in a private message, your best choice would be a lamp instead (more power for less money). To my knowledge, the best performing lamps actually are in this category: Studio lighting/ continuous lighting/ LED lights that you can find in Photo stores like BH photo: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?setNs=p_PRICE_2|0&Ns=p_PRICE_2|0&ci=12248&fct=fct_color-temperature-type_4243|daylight-balanced&srtclk=sort&N=3988592074& With only one of these light, you will be surprise of the power and you will not have to mix 2 or 3 kinds of lights. And as a bonus, you will get better photos, white balance included.
  2. Amazing optivisor light

    At Canadian tire, a store where you can buy all kinds of things, you can buy a flashlight at 1000 lm for $60. At 1000 lm, you will see things that you cannot see at 350 lm. The more you increase the lumens the more details you will see.
  3. -no oscillation means that the sanding drum will wear in a small fraction of the drum moving up, down or stationary are all the same to control; easy
  4. Amazing optivisor light

    In comparison, I measured in lumen at 1 foot my Xenon light, it can deliver 261 times more light: 91500 lm.
  5. May be it depends of which wood stains, there are a lot of kinds and effects, some are good and some are bad. You can even formulate your own one.
  6. Machining copper stock.

    When turning small jobs, small diameters I never use cutting fluids. For milling, I always use cutting fluid, mainly to preserve the cutters life and over heating both the part and the cutter. For drilling, especially deep holes, I always use cutting fluids for the same reasons. Also it is much easier to do the job with fluids. In the old time, they were using all kinds of grease and fluids. These old tables that we see were made for LARGE parts turning not really for Hobby jobs. Today, it is a lot easier, Only one solution for every thing. It look like oil, we add water to it and it turns white just like milk.I also tried other kind which turned blue. For small diameters, it is not really necessary. The most difficult part I turned is a 2 inches rod of copper. Cutting fluid was a necessity to keep the part cool.I guess that if we put the part in the cooler it would help to begin the turning. If nothing is use copper will become hot and sticky very fast and it will be difficult to make clean cuts but this is for large diameters only.
  7. I am more traditional builder than a 3d builder. It does not mean that I would not like to use 3D. If I would be a good user like HJX, I would like to ''program'' a 3D figurehead. Every day 3D becomes more accessible and more affordable. I remember the first time I saw a 2 feet long 3D dolphin made by a 5 axis milling machine. The program used was costing at 20 or 25 thousands dollars and there was a physical key to install in a port. I do not recall the exact year, but I would say it probably more than 20 years ago.
  8. Any modelers in the Montreal area ?

    Hi John, I am 1 hour north of Montreal, is that close enough? I surely would like to visit you. I do have not the chance to meet ship modelers every day. "I will be modeling as long as my hands and eyes hold out": 78 years old is a very respectable age. I am not sure life will give me as many years! 35 years ago, there was a modeling club at the Arsenal at St-Hélène island. Few years ago ,there was a club in St-Lazarre. I do not know if they still exist? Among MSW members, the only other member I know who lives in Montréal is Guru. Quebec province is surely not the most active in this area, but what I know, is that I surely had many years of happy modeling.
  9. TO BEvel OR NOT Bevel Sharpening metal can be done by hand or by machine. It can be done fast; 1- Sanding a new blade on a metal sanding blade Or it can be done slowly like : 2- Finishing the sharpening on a surface grinder 1/10000 inch at the time. Sharpening can be done by hand. When a small refresh of sharpening is needed : 3- begining with diamond stone up to about # 1000 4- to water stones up to 8000. It can be even higher with porcelain but the difference is minimal to the use. To finish in beauty; some passes on a leather strop is use to eliminate burs. 5- different additives with various grit# can help to increase the finish. The same job can be done faster mechanically or when a major regrind is needed. 6- Different kinds of abrasive wheel can be used depending of the intensity needed 7- Grinder with an adjustable angle is very helping to keep the blade without moving. Right side white abrasive, left side diamond wheel. Diamond are on the side of the wheels to have a flat surface. Because if diamonds were on the front of the wheel, the surface would be curved making the job harder to do. 8- For the finishing, different solutions more aggressive to begin and softer to finish. Felt wheels or cotton wheels with compounds. To clean these kind of wheels, I use sandpaper with a backing of wood and get rid of polishing compounds and at the same time it does resurface the front of the wheel 9- Leather wheels, hard rubbers 10- (Left side, little table to cut metal) right side 3M wheels, another kind of porous artificial rubber, I like this one very much, 3M made a very good job with this one. This is the best one for mirror finish, better and faster than felt or cotton wheels. Now the question to ask ourself is why would we add a bevel. In fact I think it would be better to ask ourself is where would we need a bevel? 11- Let’s suppose I want to make a turning knife. I will use O1 steel, tool steel, .25 X 1 inch and I will cut a 1 feet lenght. The cut will be at 90 degrees. If I sharpen the end and get rid of burs I will get a scraper, very efective to bring a plank straight., but it would be prererable with a thinner blade 12- To turn this scraper into a blade, I just need to put a bevel at one end of the blade. 13- To sharpen a drill bit, I use a drill bit holder (photo 5) 14- A milling cutter with a bevel? No it is more a relief angle wich is often added to help to reduce friction with metal 15- On the last picture, we can see on the left 1 of the knife that I prefer. Even if it is a knife, there is no additional angle close to the edge. This knife cut extremely well. In my opinion, for wood knives with narrow blades, there is no needs to a second bevel. By example if a cutting angle of 25degrees is made, adding a secondary bevel of +/- few degrees will absolutely not change anything in the cutting properties. We could try with a 25 and 30 degrees blade and very good is the one who can feel the difference. For the long blades, it is different. The 2 sides of the blade thickness have 1 angle and 1 of the reason to save time, a bevel is added. To give an example. Few weeks ago I did grind the knives of the jointer with the surface grinder. Blades are about 6 inches long. There is a bevel on the blade. To sharpen I only need to sharpen the bevel. The rest of the side of the angle does not need to be sharpen because his single purpose is to hold the blade. By grinding the bevel only; it saves a lot of time. To sharpen just the bevel of the blade takes by example 2 minutes. If I would grind the complete angle, it would take 2, 3 or 4 time longer. On the contrary with a narrow blade, if you sharpen the complete side and then you add the sharpening of a bevel, it will take much more time and you will risk, if you do not use a guide, to run the previous job. But if you only grind the bevel and not the complete side, then you could save some time. But because a narrow blade has by definition a very small area, there is not much time to save…
  10. Mechanically is surely easier. I guess there are no laws to do or not to do a bevel. It could be like a personal preference. I do not use any guide for sharpening, I sharpen the whole surface (for the small knives) and by hand it would be difficult to do a perfect bevel. What are the advantages to do a bevel? For a knife with a small angle, the thickness of the sharpened edge would be smaller, making it a bit thicker would help to have a more stable edge. Also, using a leather strap helps to realign the edge which when observed at magnification have a slight S curve. Additionally, a leather strap is the finishing touch like using, let's say 25000 grit. And finally a leather strap will eliminate burrs. Recently, I saw a sculptor in a show. He sharpened perfectly smooth and shiny a knife with a coarse electric bench wheel and to get rid of bur at the end he used a 240 grit. Results were amazing. He got good results using a light pressure. There are hundreds of possible combinations to sharpen a knife, we just have to find one which suit our needs.
  11. I would say it depends of the types. To keep it simple, let’s make a comparison with only 2 kinds; long and small surface blade. Knives few inches and more, usually have a bevel and it is faster to sharpen only the bevel. In fact it is only the bevel which is sharpened. Other types of knives, with much shorter surfaces, like Cabinet makers knives usually do not have a bevel and all the angled surface is sharpened. There is no time saving to add a bevel on a small knife. Also it would be difficult to recreate a perfectly aligned bevel each time.
  12. I have never been to a Lee Valley store. I have never been to Niagara area ship modelers. But I surely would like to go at both places!
  13. The "What did you do in your Garden today?" thread

    Hi Carl, These are photos all along summer. For the macros, I like to use zoom lens, even if theoretically it is not done for this, it works very well. At the beginning of the summer, I used a lot the Fuji 50-140+ 2X teleconverter, in the middle of this summer, a Swarovski ATX 25-60x65 Spotting Scope. Here is an example of a spotting scope flower photo :
  14. The "What did you do in your Garden today?" thread

    In the garden, I help my wife for the heavy works but she does everything else. What I like to do is to take flowers photos. Here are some of the 2017 season.
  15. Could someone explain why they add a bevel?

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