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Using a moulding scraper tool?

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15 minutes ago, druxey said:

Any guitar fret file I've ever seen is far larger and rounded compared to the minute watchmakers' screw slotting ones.

Hi druxey, I looked for but did not find the minute watchmakers' screw slotting file anywhere.

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Posted (edited)

Y.T.,

 

I'm not good at adding sketches at midnight.

 

Just take two strips of some material of the right thickness, like brass shims,  1/2 mm. thick in this case, lay them side by side on your work surface to act as a depth gauge, hold your work piece close between them and scrape it down with a flat edge such as an Xacto blade or single edge razor blade, With the 1 mm. strip you already it should be  easy work. Sandpaper might also work.

The brass (or other strips of material) are guides to keep from going too deep as well as support the work both flat and side to side.The biggest problem in working with thin strips like these is breakage since they have such little strength.

 

Chazz

Edited by Chazz
clarity

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Posted (edited)

Chazz. This sounds good 👍 Only issue might be how to securely clamp a wood piece so it does not shift around when I work on it. I believe I will figure this out. So far this seems to be best solution for my issue. I even might be using 0.5 x 5 mm wood strips to get 0.5 x 0.5 mm squares for my windows.

Edited by Y.T.

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12 hours ago, Y.T. said:

Hi Bob Blarney, how wide cut does jeweler's saw blade?

Here's a chart of blade thicknesses- the kerf will usually be a little bit wider than the blade.

 

https://www.gesswein.com/p-12889-super-pike-swiss-saw-blades-gross.aspx

 

Here's a vendor of blades in the US (Michigan)

 

http://www.crhill.com/pikesawblades.aspx

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4 hours ago, Y.T. said:

Chazz. This sounds good 👍 Only issue might be how to securely clamp a wood piece so it does not shift around when I work on it. I believe I will figure this out. So far this seems to be best solution for my issue. I even might be using 0.5 x 5 mm wood strips to get 0.5 x 0.5 mm squares for my windows.

A length of double-stick tape will hold the wood in place for 'planing'.   Alternatively, glue one end of the stock (~1 inch longer than needed)  to a backer board, and then cut off the needed length after thicknessing.  

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Posted (edited)

 

4 minutes ago, Bob Blarney said:

A length of double-stick tape will hold the wood in place for 'planing'.   Alternatively, glue one end of the stock (~1 inch longer than needed)  to a backer board, and then cut off the needed length after thicknessing.  

Hey Bob Blarney - all great ideas! Thanks a lot!

Edited by Y.T.

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14 minutes ago, Y.T. said:

 

Hey Bob Blarney - all great ideas! Thanks a lot!

Hmm, have a look at this prototype of a saw based on the chevalet concept.  So far as I know, it's not in production yet at Knew Concepts (which makes outstanding saw frames for jewelry and woodworking).  Btw, the author of the blog is Don Williams, who is an expert conservator and has worked at the Smithsonian.

 

http://donsbarn.com/report-from-wia-a-silent-clap-of-thunder/

 

http://www.knewconcepts.com/index.php

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 "...dip a short length guitar string of the desired size in automotive valve grinding compound..."

 

It occurred to me that this method works with bone, because I can wash off the oil-vehicle that carries the grit of the valve grinding compound.  This would be a problem with wood.  Maybe lapping/polishing powder can be used  - an alternative would be to dip the wire string in glue and then dip it in the powder and let it dry to make a fine abrasive saw.  

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I dug out my guitar but slotting files for the heck of it. My smallest is .010” and the largest is .056”. They should work just fine if the metal is softened first. Here are a couple of pictures.  The cutting surface is on the edge.

image.jpg

image.jpg

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Posted (edited)

My watchmakers' screw slotting files go down to a little under 0.010" wide. Unlike fret files, they cut a square bottom slot. Jewellers' saw blades are a good and cheaper alternative!

Edited by druxey

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