Jump to content
New Publication - Ship Modeler's Handbook - They're back in stock! Thank you for your patience. ×

James H

Administrators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    5,925

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by James H

  1. James H
    While it's an advanced level kit, if you've got some building experience under your built and can think logically, this won't be beyond many people.
  2. James H
    Hornblower isn't supplied with this kit. Just Pellew. It's up to the modeller if they want to include Hornblower and any uniform vagaries (bearing in mind most folk wouldn't know anyway...I certainly didn't).
  3. James H
    Sounds like this will be perfect for you 😉😜
  4. James H
    Included in the kit will be a set of optional lodging and hanging knees. It'll be up to you if you want the extra work, but for the manual, I have to take one for the team! These are the hanging knees. The truncated ones are the parts that will be fitted where the gun port would otherwise be obstructed by the longer part. Of course, each part also needs to be specifically shaped to its position. Plenty of spares are supplied. Here they are fitted, along with the lodging knees. And the fore deck beams are now added, with the optional knees also installed, followed by the boat beams. These also have optional knees. And here she is so far!!
  5. James H
    Time for another update. This was something I was looking forward to doing. Not covering up all that work I'd just done, but to turn a corner and be able to do it all again for the next layer in the Indy cake. Before I did that, I needed to add the scale-sized cannonballs to the shot garlands. These are done with liquid CA and some thin-ended paddle tweezers that won't knock the previous ball glued into place. And with that, it's onto the beams. As the upper side will have some timber showing through the deck cutouts, these were totally cleaned of char. The whole upper face was cleaned also because they look much better for the instruction photos. There are two lengths of pillar, depending on whether they sit on a deck or on a grate coaming. All deck beams were painted red, except for the upper side and all the slots. The beam ID is engraved on each beam and this ties in with the engraved number of the deck beam sill. The beams are now slotted and glued into position. Those beams that are supported are continually test fitted with a pillar before being finally glued. Also important to make sure the pillar doesn't push the beam higher than was intended. A steel rule checks this as I go. The forward beam for the quarterdeck is not only shaped in profile, but also curved across its length. To create this, the beam is made from laminated pear parts, glued together over a jig. When this is dry, the part is cleaned up and fitted into place, sitting atop two of the bitts.
  6. James H
    I've always wanted a really long wait of tweezers with precision tip, and reverse grip too. These would be for belaying, and I reckon about 8 inches long. I really do need to look for some.
  7. James H
    They are single-piece,;laser cut parts.
  8. James H
    And more... Knees(?) now added, as well as a painted brick floor for the stove. And the gun carts now have some colour applied to them, as well as ironwork and wheels. Remember, these won't be fitted with barrels until the model is more or less complete. Capstan finally done. As are the hand pumps. No one wants to walk down stairs without a safety rope around them! And the stove makes an appearance. And this is Indy up to date. Back in the shipyard tomorrow
  9. James H
    Ok, major update time! I've actually had a lot of subassemblies ready for a while, as this log shows, but now it's time for adding them in. What I haven't shown here is the spirketting that I added and fitting the eyelets to the inner bulwark gun positions. You'll have to wait until manual is finished for those! I've had to take about 100 photos these last days and sequence them, with the ones I took ages ago. Ok, first paint is for the coamings, after masking off the garlands and glue area for grates. Coamings now fitted without grates as they are more flexible for deck curve. I've probably posted this pic before, but this just shows that the ladders are now being fitted, along with the grates. I pre-assembled the bitts etc in situ, then removed them when dry before painting. These are now added into place for the last time.
  10. James H
    Maybe apart from the 'pink' bit (😆), you are absolutely right. In fact, including the pink! As long as the materials are there to build the model as intended, then any small extra effort is up to the modeller in how they depict a vessel.
  11. James H
    I can almost guarantee that's the reason, and no other. Shipping prices for business are awful at the moment, and these folk need to recoup that.
  12. James H
    It's not the lower gun deck, it's the main gun deck. Many contemporary models show the same for that deck. We have plenty in our gallery.
  13. James H
    Ship's stove. I know I did the for the VM web-shop but this one is now printed in 8K resolution using a different resin which is tough. There are two PE frets with this stove, with a few spares for things like pulleys and eyelets etc. The stove assembly is the same as the one in the shop, but here are some pics of the work. Tamiya fine primer was used on the stove, followed by Tamiya Flat Black. The stove was then weathered with Uschi van der Rosten steel pigment. At this stage, the chimney and pipe are only sat in position. They'll be glued to the stove later in the build.
  14. James H
    You can have a look through my build logs for stuff that you might be wanting to use. I'm UK and everything I buy is either local, or Amazon.
  15. James H
    Tiny update as I am doing a few other things in other build areas of Indy too. I now have some colour on the model. I first varnished the exposed strip on the inner bulwarks and then used masking tape before I added paint. For this, I used some Plastikote Red Oxide (same as on the lower fisher hulls) and decanted it from the aerosol so I could airbrush it. The paint was left to de-gas for a few hours. That's important as it'll boil if you try to use or do anything with it when fresh from the rattle can. The paint was then thinned with mr Levelling Thinner, about 60:40 paint to thinner. When completely dry, I airbrushed Tamiya Flat Red over the red oxide. After more judicious masking (and masking the ports off from interior), I did the same paint regime for the gun ports. Once dry, everything was unmasked. The standard kit will be supplied with Red Alder for deck planking. This is a beautiful timber. However, for this, I am using an engraved maple veneer deck. There will be an option for a maple deck, but it's an actual maple deck, not veneer. Fitting the deck will be the same as for this, with a subtle flex and sliding into the rear first, underneath the stern timbers. First though, a test fit should be done and the edges sanded so it lies flat to the bulwark edges. The deck was then glued down and left to dry. In the meantime, the main gu deck coamings were masked and airbrushed in Tamiya Flat Black. The grates will be added after the coamings are fitted, so to reduce rigidity when fitting. More soon(ish)
  16. James H
    I'm not sure what a drover is. Also the rig plan instructions are pretty much what I followed when I rigged Sphinx for the manual. I didn't replicate every single rig item as a photo as the drawings suffice and photos of such things aren't easy to take. It'd also bloated the manual out by another 20 pages! 😁
  17. James H
    Outstanding!
  18. James H
    Ok, this is derailing an excellent build log with material which is totally pointless. Let's respect what Doug is setting out to do here. If you want a topic on prow tapering, which isn't included on any commercial kit, or ever been asked for to my knowledge, then please open a topic about it ad create discussion there. Same goes for application of a ship's name to the stern, period depending.
  19. James H
    No matter how much work is put into a kit, nothing can ever be absolutely represented in the minutest of detail when the kit needs to be released without the company going bust because it's spending too much time on stuff no one will ever notice. Well, almost no one.
  20. James H
    You're right. Everywhere I've looked, it's out of stock. As it's so widespread, perhaps the kit is now. (temporarily?) out of production?
  21. James H
    That is spectacular!
  22. James H
    Oh, I also gave the underside another rigorous sanding to really smooth it up.
  23. James H
    This update shows the basic external finishing of Indefatigable, and at this stage doesn't include the numerous rails etc. that make up the side bulwarks. That's for later in the build. After a LOT of sanding of the second pear planked layer, the gun ports were opened up to their correct size at last. Before using some custom-made sanding sticks for the job, the inner bulwark port openings were trimmed down more or less to the size of the port itself. The sanders were then used to finally clean them up and even out the internal areas. A sharp scalpel was then used to square up any corners properly. If you remember, the first pear plank was laid to be in the exact same position as the the upper strip of the wales. Here you can see the mark that indicates the flow of the plane at the prow. The top also aligns with the top of the prow, so that makes it easier! A 4mm wide strip of 1mm pear is now run from the prow to the stern, following that plank line. I used CA gel for this as I didn't want to use any pins on this area. I've left the plank overlong at the rear so you can see where it runs to. The last two gun ports are also partially obscured by the strip. Now, three 5mm wide pear strips of 1mm thickness are run directly underneath the 4mm strip, again with CA gel. Once in place, I masked off the area on both sides of the wales and sanded the wales smooth. You'll note that I tapered the lower two planks towards the bow, and the lower one plank at the stern. The gun ports are now cut into the wales, and the wales are finally shaped at the stern. These are shaped from the curve of the stern lower counter, and rounded into the underside of the wale. Indy now looks like this. The next update will show some internal work underway.
  24. James H
    That is mind-blowing! Thank you VERY much for sharing!!
  25. James H
    At the moment, I've finished the outer hull with copious sanding, cleaned up the gun ports and trimmed to the correct size (including any excess material from the inner bulwark port openings), added the wales and now in final stages of moving on from there. I'll add some pics in the next days.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...